Estes Rocket Will Not Launch
Richard Goldthwaite
for
my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
4 AA batterys,is this enough?
-
RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
D433-Bennett_L_Lewis(Ben)x82340
My experience with my Estes starter set (I bought the E2X "Patriot"
almost 30 months ago) has been good. I have launched over 100 rockets
on the original set of 4 AA batteries, and they are just now starting
to take a little longer than "instant" to heat up and ignite the motors.
I have even used the controller to continuity test all my igniters,
after the time I prepped several models at home and neglected to bring
spare igniters to the launch, and had one model that would not light up
the continuity lamp.
Point is, if everything you tried checks out, and the batteries are
installed properly (which is the only thing you did not mention),
this setup works very well and reliably for many, many launches.
For under $3, you can get half-a-dozen spare igniters. Try "launching"
an igniter NOT installed in a motor to see if it is getting hot. A
properly working controller with fresh batteries will sizzle the igniter
very quickly. ' luck
------------
Ben Lewis b...@dw.att.com
Paul A. Gramann
> for
> my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
> made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
> contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
> comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
> 4 AA batterys,is this enough?
Connect the two clips together. Then put in the safety key. The light
should turn on. If it doesn't, try roughing up the surface of the clips
and the key with some fine grain sand paper. Still no luck - try fresh
batteries. (Still no luck - take it back.) Then push the button. The
light should go off when the button is pressed. (Don't hold the button
down long). Then as a final test, take out the safety key and hook the
clips to an ignitor. DO NOT PUT THE IGNITOR IN AN ENGINE - THE ENGINE
IS !NOT! PART OF THIS TEST!! Put the key back in, the light should turn
on. Then press and hold the button - the light should turn off and the
ignitor will burst into flames (within two seconds) like a flare from a
match. Once all this works - your launch system should works. Extra
ignitors can be purchased at a hobby shop for about $.50 each in a pack
of about 6 or so. 4 fresh batteries works fine for us.
--Paul (my views - not my employer's, of course)
PaulDiming
(Richard Goldthwaite) writes:
>
>Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
>for
>my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
>made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
>contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
>comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
>4 AA batterys,is this enough?
>-
Believe me, the juice supplied for an Alpha III with Estes igniters is
plenty enough juice. Does the continuity light turn on when you insert
the launch key? Are the batteries fresh? Since it is a new set, I assume
the clips are corrosion free. There is a possibility that the launch
controller is not working. But the light info would help. This problem
should be simple enough to fix. I have an Alpha III and have used it
zillions of times with the normal Estes launch pad and controller. Let us
know. We can help.
Paul.
Fly Baby Fly!
J. Steven York
>Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
>for
>my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
>made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
>contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
>comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
>4 AA batterys,is this enough?
>-
> RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
Richard, a fresh set of alkaline AAs should be plenty assuming you're
using Estes Solar Ignitors. If you didn't put a new set of batteries
in the controller, do so. An odd set from the household junk drawer
may not work. "Heavy Duty" batteries, even new ones, may not work.
Make sure the batteries are inserted in the right direction. Things
to check:
Connect the alligator clips together, and insert the safety key. The
continuity light should be clear and bright. If it is dim and
orangish, you may have a bad connection somewhere in the controller.
If it doesn't light at all, then you have a serious break in the
circuit somewhere.
Step 2, see if it will light a solar ignitor. Remember that the
ignitor will get hot and burn. It should be on something flameproof
(like a sidewalk or concrete driveway) and not held in someone's hand.
Don't insert the key until the clips are connected, the ignitor is in
a safe location, and everyone is at least a couple feet away. Insert
the key, press the button, and HOLD IT until the ignitor burns in two,
or for several seconds, whichever comes first. If it burns, good, you
now have a better feel for how ignitors work, and how long it takes
for one to ignite. If not, then you have a problem with the
controller again.
Step 3: Launch time. Make sure you have a good ignitor. Solar
ignitors are fragile. Handle them with care. If the dark glob of
stuff on the end is cracked, broken, or missing, assume the ignitor is
bad and use another one. When you insert it, make sure it makes
contact with the propellent. If you have the newer engines with
ignitor plugs, use them. They've worked well for me. If not, tear
off a small (1" square or so) piece of recovery wadding, and pack it
into the nozzle using a pencil tip. This will hold the ignitor firmly
in place just like a ignitor plug. Don't damage the engine nozzle.
When you connect the clips, be sure that they make good contact with
the ignitor leads, that the leads don't cross or touch, and that the
clips aren't being shorted out by the metal blast deflector. Make
sure the pad area is safe, insert the key, do a countdown, push the
button, and HOLD IT. It may take several seconds for something to
happen. Watch the tail of the rocket carefully, and listen for noise.
If you hear a hiss, or see a small puff of smoke, and nothing happens,
remove the safety key, have a seat, and wait. Watch the rocket for
any signs of flame or smoke. If, after several minutes things look
safe, approach the rocket with caution. Ignition at this point is
VERY unlikey (or at any point after an ignitor failure) but always
better safe than sorry. Don't put you face over the rocket or any
part of your body under it until you've looked it over and it seems
safe. Then disconnect the wires, remove the rocket from the pad, and
inspect the ignitor. If it isn't obviously burned through, carefully
remove it and take a look. Replace it if necessary, and start over.
After you've gotten off a successful launch, inspect the clips before
each launch. They often become bent or fouled with gunk from the
rocket blast. Keep sand paper, a nail file, or an emery board in your
range box for keeping them clean.
Hope these hints help.
J. Steven York
jst...@teleport.com/j.y...@genie.com
Mark Scheevel
>
> > Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
> > for
> > my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
> > made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
> > contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
> > comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
> > 4 AA batterys,is this enough?
>
> should turn on. If it doesn't, try roughing up the surface of the clips
> and the key with some fine grain sand paper. Still no luck - try fresh
> batteries. (Still no luck - take it back.) Then push the button. The
> light should go off when the button is pressed. (Don't hold the button
> down long). Then as a final test, take out the safety key and hook the
> clips to an ignitor. DO NOT PUT THE IGNITOR IN AN ENGINE - THE ENGINE
> IS !NOT! PART OF THIS TEST!! Put the key back in, the light should turn
> on. Then press and hold the button - the light should turn off and the
> ignitor will burst into flames (within two seconds) like a flare from a
> match. Once all this works - your launch system should works. Extra
> ignitors can be purchased at a hobby shop for about $.50 each in a pack
> of about 6 or so. 4 fresh batteries works fine for us.
>
> --Paul (my views - not my employer's, of course)
I've too have found that the safety key itself can get corroded. I think the
one I have is aluminum, so it oxidizes in a way that isn't always obvious.
When I start to have reliability problems, the first thing I do is take some
sandpaper to that puppy, and that often clears them up.
--
Mark Scheevel
Austin, TX
Perry Hunter
NYL...@prodigy.com (Richard Goldthwaite) wrote:
>Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
>for
>my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
>made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
>contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
>comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
>4 AA batterys,is this enough?
> RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
>
1) Check continuity across the igniter. The small wire is often broken beneath
the match goop and it won't show.
2) The "Electron Beam" controller is pretty flimsy, but if it's working
properly it should set off an Estes ignitor just fine. Try setting of an
ignitor by itself...also, try fresh batteries.
Perry Hunter
Halfhill Dry Lake Test Range and Beer Tasting Center
va...@pe.net
Philip Stiff
>
>Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
>for
>my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
>made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
>contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
>comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only
takes
>4 AA batterys,is this enough?
>-
> RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
I has a similar problem when I first tryed to launch the Alpha 3. What
I did to fix it was simply to reverse the clips (i.e. negative to
postive). Since the clips and igniter are not labeled positive or
negative you can only guess as to which is which, so if you ever have
problems like this try reversing them and give it another shot.
Have Fun!!! :)
Philip Stiff
st...@pangea.ca
Larry Baskett
On 25 Apr 1996, Philip Stiff wrote:
> <stuff about ignition problems>
> I has a similar problem when I first tryed to launch the Alpha 3. What
> I did to fix it was simply to reverse the clips (i.e. negative to
> postive). Since the clips and igniter are not labeled positive or
> negative you can only guess as to which is which, so if you ever have
> problems like this try reversing them and give it another shot.
Actually, an igniter is effectively a resistor, for which polarity does
not matter.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
_
/ \
| | Larry Baskett
| |
| | lbas...@leland.stanford.edu
| |
| | Stanford University
| |
/| | |\ NAR #60166
/ | | | \
/ | | | \ LUNAR #151
/ |_|_| \
/ / | \ \
/ / | \ \
/ / | \ \
\__/ | \__/
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Scott Merrell
st...@pangea.ca (Philip Stiff) wrote:
>In article <4lhb7p$g...@usenetp1.news.prodigy.com>, NYL...@prodigy.com
>says...
>>
>>Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
>>for
>>my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
>>made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
>>contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
>>comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only
>takes
>>4 AA batterys,is this enough?
>>-
>> RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
Also bought this kit and it is working. Be sure the batteries are in the
right direction. We had one wrong and didn't put out enough current.
Also noted when the key is put in, but not hooked to the igniter, the
bulb was not on! So I tested hooking the clips together and the light
came on! This is a good test for the wires.
Also be sure to use new alkaline batteries, regulars just won't hold up
for many launches.
Lastly, hookup just an igniter to the clips to test it out. The tiny
nichrome wire should glow almost white and the 'gunpowder' should flash.
The flash is what actually ignites the engine.
When doing the real thing, be sure the igniter leads are not crossed and
the tip is all the way into the engine. Use the little yellow igniter
holder to make sure it stays put.
My son's starter rocket went almost 1200' straight up and he is hooked!
It's a great hobby. Get him a plastic tool kit for emergency stuff...
igniters, igniter holders, engines, xacto knife, emergency glue, wadding.
Teach him the value of a thorough checkout before visiting the lauching
field. Everything must be right to be a 'steely eyed rocket man'! Just
like on Apollo 13.
Good Boosters!
Scott Merrell
mer...@erols.com (home)
PaulDiming
In article <4m2m3u$2...@hpuerci.atl.hp.com>, Scott Merrell
<SCOTT_...@HP-USA-om11.om.hp.com> writes:
>My son's starter rocket went almost 1200' straight up and he is hooked!
>It's a great hobby. Get him a plastic tool kit for emergency stuff...
>igniters, igniter holders, engines, xacto knife, emergency glue, wadding.
>Teach him the value of a thorough checkout before visiting the lauching
>field. Everything must be right to be a 'steely eyed rocket man'! Just
>like on Apollo 13.
>
>
Excellent suggestion! My son and I put together a range box using a
fishing tackle box. All of our engines are organized by size and type in
seperate partitions. All the necessities listed above have their place in
the box plust a few more. He helps me set up the launch pad and performs
all the countdowns himself. I retain the launch key until I'm certain all
is safe. Like his Dad, he loves the hobby too!
Paul.
Fly Baby Fly!
mo...@daemon.apana.org.au
> jst...@teleport.com (J. Steven York) writes:
> NYL...@prodigy.com (Richard Goldthwaite) wrote:
>
> >Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
> >for
> >my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
> >made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
> >contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
> >comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
> >4 AA batterys,is this enough?
> >-
> > RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
>
work after that...
/\/ouse
kapl...@hccompare.com
In article <4m2m3u$2...@hpuerci.atl.hp.com>, Scott Merrell <SCOTT_...@HP-USA-om11.om.hp.com> writes:
> nichrome wire should glow almost white and the 'gunpowder' should flash.
> The flash is what actually ignites the engine.
Actually not. The heat from the wire, if in contact with the propellant is
sufficient and probably works better! The pyrogen helps in the "almost in
contact" cases, but a properly installed ignitor will work with or without
the black stuff on the tip.
At NARAM last year, there were some new pyrogen-free ignitors form Estes.
Their problem was that they were too fragile. The Pyrogen also acts as an
insulator, spacer, and protector of the fine wire. But it is not required
for successful ignition.
Bob Kaplow INTERNET: kapl...@hccompare.com
USPO: HealthCare COMPARE Corp, 5ISD, 3200 Highland Av. Downers Grove, IL 60515
TPC: (708) 241-7919 x5327 ICBM: 41°49'48" North 88°0'51" West
NOTICE: My internet address will soon change to robert...@hccompare.com :-(
The only thing truly indecent or offensive on the Internet is censorship.
Disclaimer: If this message is caught or killed, the secretary will disavow
any knowledge of my actions. These bits will self destruct in 5 seconds....
kapl...@hccompare.com
In article <4m3pek$2...@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, pauld...@aol.com (PaulDiming) writes:
> In article <4m2m3u$2...@hpuerci.atl.hp.com>, Scott Merrell
> <SCOTT_...@HP-USA-om11.om.hp.com> writes:
>>It's a great hobby. Get him a plastic tool kit for emergency stuff...
>>igniters, igniter holders, engines, xacto knife, emergency glue, wadding.
>>Teach him the value of a thorough checkout before visiting the lauching
>>field. Everything must be right to be a 'steely eyed rocket man'! Just
>>like on Apollo 13.
>
> Excellent suggestion! My son and I put together a range box using a
> fishing tackle box. All of our engines are organized by size and type in
> seperate partitions. All the necessities listed above have their place in
> the box plust a few more. He helps me set up the launch pad and performs
> all the countdowns himself. I retain the launch key until I'm certain all
> is safe. Like his Dad, he loves the hobby too!
One problem for us old timers: In 30 years I've collected an awful lot of
"necessities". My range box now looks a lot like a mini-van and costs almost
as much as the house I grew up in :-) or is that :-(
Bob Kaplow INTERNET: ??? see below ???
Jim McLaughlin
On 30 Apr 1996 kapl...@hccompare.com wrote:
>
> At NARAM last year, there were some new pyrogen-free ignitors form Estes.
> Their problem was that they were too fragile.
Wow. The wheel turns full circle. Is there anyone else [tell me there
must be, I'm _not_ that old (am I, I mean I still have some hair ?)] who
remembers wrapping turns of nichrome around the conventently right sized
end of the launch rod, all without those newfangled pyrogens on the loops ....?
( Nods off mumbling "By gum, why sonny, when I was your age, we made our
own LOx and jetted to school..... 3 parsecs over, 5 parsecs back, up hill
against the gravity well both ways.... Oh wrong group....whatever).
Jim McLaughlin These opinions are mine, mine, mine!
And not anybody else's. So there.
Portland, OR bald...@teleport.com
Rick
Jim McLaughlin <bald...@teleport.com> wrote:
>
>On 30 Apr 1996 kapl...@hccompare.com wrote:
>
>>
>> At NARAM last year, there were some new pyrogen-free ignitors form Estes.
>> Their problem was that they were too fragile.
>
>Wow. The wheel turns full circle. Is there anyone else [tell me there
>must be, I'm _not_ that old (am I, I mean I still have some hair ?)] who
>remembers wrapping turns of nichrome around the conventently right sized
>end of the launch rod, all without those newfangled pyrogens on the loops ....?
>
Gee, I always wrapped them around the end of a ball point pen. Still do that
sometimes with the pigtails from the current ignitors although the leads only
stick out about 1/2". I grow my supply of spare ignitors that way.
--
"... and this was my own opinion only." ;-) Rick
dmi...@sysdiv.sdl.usu.edu
We had a similar problem with an Estes launch controller and I found that
the bent-metal spring-clip at the end of one battery needed to be bent out a
bit so it would press firmly against the battery. Next attempt, WHOOSH!
The Silent Observer
In article <Pine.SUN.3.92.96050...@linda.teleport.com>,
posted on Wed, 1 May 1996 01:18:08 -0700, Jim McLaughlin
(bald...@teleport.com) writes...
>
>
>On 30 Apr 1996 kapl...@hccompare.com wrote:
>
>>
>> At NARAM last year, there were some new pyrogen-free ignitors form
Estes.
>> Their problem was that they were too fragile.
>
>Wow. The wheel turns full circle. Is there anyone else [tell me there
>must be, I'm _not_ that old (am I, I mean I still have some hair ?)]
who
>remembers wrapping turns of nichrome around the conventently right
sized
>end of the launch rod, all without those newfangled pyrogens on the
loops ....?
>
In fact, when I was in this hobby the first time (about 1972), I got
much better results from plain nichrome (a 2.5-turn coil wrapped on the
tip tube of a ballpoint pen filler -- .064" music wire would make a good
former, too) than from the old Estes "standard" igniters -- and the
spanking-new Solar igniters were pretty hard to come by on a kid's
budget, given that they didn't come with the motors.
Of course, we were lighting the motors off our teacher's car battery,
once he got sick of no-fires, even on Solar igniters, with the Solar
controller he'd bought.
Besides, doesn't nicrhome wrapped on a sliver of White Lightning turn
out to be one of the best ways to light the bigger Aerotech composites?
--
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| There's no such thing as gravity -- the Earth sucks. -- unknown |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| sil...@ix.netcom.com http://members.aol.com/silntobsvr/home.htm |
| TableTop Publications http://members.aol.com/silntobsvr/ttop_pub.htm |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
| All opinions expressed are my own, and should in no way be mistaken |
| for those of anyone but a rabid libertarian. |
+----------------------------------------------------------------------+
kapl...@hccompare.com
In article <Pine.SUN.3.92.96050...@linda.teleport.com>, Jim McLaughlin <bald...@teleport.com> writes:
>
> On 30 Apr 1996 kapl...@hccompare.com wrote:
>
>>
>> At NARAM last year, there were some new pyrogen-free ignitors form Estes.
>> Their problem was that they were too fragile.
>
> Wow. The wheel turns full circle. Is there anyone else [tell me there
> must be, I'm _not_ that old (am I, I mean I still have some hair ?)] who
> remembers wrapping turns of nichrome around the conventently right sized
> end of the launch rod, all without those newfangled pyrogens on the loops ....?
Yes, I'm that old, but you don't have to remind me :-(
PLEASE!!! note my new and disgusting internet address vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
Bob Kaplow INTERNET: Robert...@hccompare.com
USPO: HealthCare COMPARE Corp, 5ISD, 3200 Highland Av. Downers Grove, IL 60515
TPC: (708) 241-7919 x5327 ICBM: 41°49'48" North 88°0'51" West
The only thing truly indecent or offensive on the Internet is censorship.
Jerry Irvine
In article <Pine.SUN.3.92.96050...@linda.teleport.com>,
Jim McLaughlin <bald...@teleport.com> wrote:
> On 30 Apr 1996 kapl...@hccompare.com wrote:
> > At NARAM last year, there were some new pyrogen-free ignitors form Estes.
> > Their problem was that they were too fragile.
>
They were at Mile Square about two years ago too.
> Wow. The wheel turns full circle. Is there anyone else ... who
> remembers wrapping turns of nichrome
Just me.
But then I remember B14's, A5's, Short "engines" and Estes engine mailing
tubes many of which I converted to rockets. Maybe I just feel old.
Just Jerry
--
Jerry Irvine - jjir...@cyberg8t.com
Box 1242, Claremont, CA 91711 USA
Opinion, the whole thing.
msjo...@ks.symbios.com
In article <4m88q1$k...@dfw-ixnews4.ix.netcom.com> sil...@ix.netcom.com (The Silent Observer) writes:
>Besides, doesn't nicrhome wrapped on a sliver of White Lightning turn
>out to be one of the best ways to light the bigger Aerotech composites?
Haven't actually tried it yet; I have done some tests of such a beastie and
found that a 3/32 square x 3/4 long chunk of WL wrapped in nichrome for most
of its length produces a nice little 1" ball of fire that persists for about a
second. If that won't fire a 38mm motor I don't know what will!
=======
PaulDiming
In article <msjohnso.12...@KS.Symbios.COM>,
msjo...@KS.Symbios.COM writes:
>
>>Besides, doesn't nicrhome wrapped on a sliver of White Lightning turn
>>out to be one of the best ways to light the bigger Aerotech composites?
>
>
Ok, in Virginia, the best White Lightning comes from Franklin County. You
test how pure it is by lighting it and watching the color of the flame.
A green flame indicates they probably used a radiator to make it, so it's
real bad. Can make you go blind. The blue flame stuff is excellent!
Especially if you put some of it in a mason jar with peaches and let it
sit for awhile...
Now I have a feeling you aren't talking about the same stuff! What is
this White Lightning you are speaking of?
Paul.
Fly Baby Fly!
The Silent Observer
In article <4meceo$m...@newsbf02.news.aol.com>, posted on 3 May 1996
21:38:32 -0400, PaulDiming (pauld...@aol.com) writes...
Heh... B)
...I was referring, of course, to Aerotech's trade name for the
middle of their three propellant formulations -- in order of burn rate,
and reverse order of smoke production, these are Black Jack (named for
its smoke trail), White Lightning (named for the bright flame), and Blue
Thunder (named for the flame color and noise).
michae...@gmail.com
bboyr...@gmail.com
pe...@netcito.com
> (Solved) I know this thread is old looks like its from 1996 lol its 2014 now, 18 years later but i havent seen any answers when i was searching online for a solution. I used a 9v battery from the dollar store and that wasnt sending strong enough power to ignite the igniter so i switched the cheap battery for an Energizer battery and it worked.
nyon...@gmail.com
beard...@gmail.com
Joe Pfeiffer
not lighting, and you've gone through nine motors my immediate question
is, are the igniters lighting? If the igniters aren't lighting, the
problem is somewhere in the electrical connections. If the igniters are
lighting and the motors aren't, somehow the igniters aren't up high
enough in the nozzle.
bilal.a...@gmail.com
Joe Pfeiffer
wouldn't expect to feel any sort of shock, the current and voltage used
by a rocket ignition system is far too low for that.
Do you have a local model rocket club you can turn to for help? If you
post your city, we could see if there is a National Association of
Rocketry section near you; you could go to one of their launches and get
help.
NWMoMike
Michael
flam...@gmail.com
> (Solved) I know this thread is old looks like its from 1996 lol its 2014 now, 18 years later but i havent seen any answers when i was searching online for a solution. I used a 9v battery from the dollar store and that wasnt sending strong enough power to ignite the igniter so i switched the cheap battery for an Energizer battery and it worked.
pfsan...@gmail.com
It's not enough to have a brand new battery that puts out enough voltage. It is actually the current that matters.
The cheap battery I got was a Carbon-Zink battery. Estes puts right on the battery hatch "Alkaline", but I assumed that's what I had and didn't double check. I googled "9V capacity Carbon Zinc vs. Alkaline", and found an excellent site comparing outputs of different batteries. I was astounded at how little current the Carbon-Zinc supplied.
http://www.powerstream.com/9V-Alkaline-tests.htm
So if your igniter isn't working, double check you have a good quality Alkaline battery in the remote.
(The way I found out that the problem was the lack of current was I used two of my Carbon-Zinc 9V batteries in parallel, and the igniter burned)
pfsan...@gmail.com
> ...
Forgot to mention. I'd also recommend Alkaline batteries in those remotes using AA batteries. Seems like overlooking the instructions and using the wrong type is a common mistake.
maxv...@gmail.com
Had similar problems with one of the Estes "starter" sets recently (comes with two rockets in a box, one rocket is labeled "Rascal").
Cannot get the engines to light. New Energizer alkalines, even tested an ignitor on its own just connected to a 9v with clip leads and sure enough, it gets red hot. When it is suffed up inside the engine on the launch pad, we can hear it sizzle, and then... nothing.
Tried a length of cannon fuse stuck up in the engine. Lit the fuse, it burned just like the fuse on a stick of dynamite. The fuse burned right up to the engine and then... nothing.
I remember launching lots of them when I was a kid in the 70s, and they would light with just about anything. Battery and clip leads, even a length of masking tape as a makeshift "fuse" shoved up in the engine hole and lit with a lighter would work.
I've never seen these things just not light, especially with a flame right up on them.
Are these solid fuel engines sometimes duds?
Thanks.
pbla...@gmail.com
pbla...@gmail.com
pbla...@gmail.com
Joe Pfeiffer
clay blocking the igniter from the fuel.
Make absolutely sure the igniter is inserted all the way into the motor.
And the best option: see if you can find a rocketry club in your area.
Rocketeers tend to be a very friendly, helpful bunch and you should be
able to get assistance.
mrof...@gmail.com
Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
mrof...@gmail.com
David Schultz
> I recently had a problem with the Estes launcher at my son's cub
> scout rocket launch. I used a brand new alkaline battery and the
> continuity light illuminated, but the igniter wouldn't burn. I used
> someone else's launcher with the same igniter and it launched
> perfectly. I checked the voltage output and it is supplying 9.35
> volts when the launch button is pushed...same voltage as the battery.
> I'm using a Rayovac alkaline 9v, and am wondering why that would be
> any different from an Energizer or Duracell.
>
results in differing internal resistance. Apparently the Rayovac has too
high an internal resistance.
> Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the
> safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with
> just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
>
like it.
--
David W. Schultz
http://home.earthlink.net/~david.schultz
Returned for Regrooving
Joe Pfeiffer
> I recently had a problem with the Estes launcher at my son's cub scout
> rocket launch. I used a brand new alkaline battery and the continuity
> light illuminated, but the igniter wouldn't burn. I used someone
> else's launcher with the same igniter and it launched perfectly. I
> checked the voltage output and it is supplying 9.35 volts when the
> launch button is pushed...same voltage as the battery. I'm using a
> Rayovac alkaline 9v, and am wondering why that would be any different
> from an Energizer or Duracell.
somewhere in the controller?
> Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the
> safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with
> just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
resistor to limit current to the ignitor to avoid setting it off when
doing a continuity check; with no ignitor your voltmeter will register
something close to battery voltage (so if there's any surprise here at
all, it's that it's lower than 9V).
My real advice in all cases like this is to find a local rocket club.
Rocketeers are happy to help (to the point of kibitzing too much
sometimes!) and will be glad to look at your controller and try to
figure out what's going on.
http://www.nar.org/find-a-local-club/
al...@zoghlin.com
Joe Pfeiffer
groups, so I wouldn't be at all surprised out it's an artifact of that
interface) is that everybody with the question seems to tack it on the
same antique thread, instead of starting a new one. So the post I was
actually responding to was posted July 17, 2015.
MDebb...@brophybroncos.org
So for anyone who is reading this in the future, try just disassembling and reassembling the controller. It might just work.
mason...@gmail.com
> Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
> for
> my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
> made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
> contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
> comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
> 4 AA batterys,is this enough?
> -
> RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
No. I had to use 2- 9 volts parallel to make ESTES ignitors work. Not series to make 18volts.
scottcl...@gmail.com
Joe Pfeiffer
> Hi guys,my b6 engines will not fire,do they have a use by date? I have
> had them a few years.
22cur...@msad17.org
> Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
> for
> my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
> made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
> contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
> comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
> 4 AA batterys,is this enough?
> -
> RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
Tom
> On Tuesday, April 23, 1996 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Richard Goldthwaite wrote:
> cause a short circuit and the igniter won't get current. Im just a 12 year
> old that knows a lot about model rocketry.
OT: Nice to see younger generations on USENET. Please do continue to
participate, it is what keeps USENET alive...try to limit replies to
postings from this century! :)
You might consider a web search on USENET to learn more about what this
thing is and investigate some of the NNTP providers (such as
eternal-september.org) as a replacement to the Google Groups interface.
Tom
tyr...@gmail.com
Jody
mrk...@gmail.com
> Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
> for
> my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
> made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
> contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
> comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
> 4 AA batterys,is this enough?
> -
> RICHARD G NYL...@prodigy.com
Scott Schuckert
Ah... You do know the problem you're attempting to solve is eleven
years old? I rather expect he's solved it by now.
In article <e959155d-c6e0-48a5...@googlegroups.com>,
