RC10GT spur gear rubbing
CAMcKeen
well until I got to the tranny(bearings). When I first assembled it, the brake
was engaging a little all the time, making the tranny rough. However, when I
got it installed, everything adjusted and the tranny was great, problem solved,
the first problem that is. The I went on to the rear suspension and now I am
in trouble. I attached the A-arms and now the spur gear rubs on the 3 degree
A-arm mount. It seems that the spur gear is wobbling a liitle when I turn it.
I am going to dissasemble the clutch and see if a bushing or spacer is
misplaced, but if that does not fix it, what should I do? I hope nothing is
bent, haven't dropped anything, and no difficuties putting the tranny together.
My next idea is to carve away a liitle of the suspension mount, is that a good
idea?C\
Craig
RC 10 T3/GT Driver
I have the same problem when I build my GT. There is two factor that cause
this problem.
First, there is to much play on the top shift once the tranny put together.
I am not sure if that happen to you too. The play on the top shift
allow the spur gear to move back and fore and it will rub the gear mount as
it move forward.
Second. the slipper clutch will WOB because Associated do a lousy job
making them!! It is not because you and I not putting the tranny together
properly.
To solve to problem,
1. You just have to reduce the play on the top shift. Space the top shift
away from the A-arm (see figure below)
____
__| |__________________
|__ __________________|
|____| ^ ^put one more shim here. you have to try different
thickness of the shim to fine a best fit.
2. Try to make the spur gear not to wob with the slipper clutch by putting
some thin tape on the back of the spur gear. The slipper clutch will still
wob but the spur gear will womb less if doing it that way. The really
solution is to have associated to fix the problem.
3. if after step 1 and 2. and it still rubbing the A-arm mount ( last then
before I am sure) then you will have to shave some of the plastic off the
A-arm mount. BTW I have to shave the A-arm itself too!!
I think AE screw this one up really bad!!
That is how I solve the problem.
I hope that will help you out.
RC10 T3/GT Driver.
CAMcKeen wrote in message <19990305161323...@ng23.aol.com>...
AssRC10GT
i also run 64 th spur's u guys are probably using 66's and that can contribute
to your problem (not horizontal movement just vertical)
RC10 T3/GT Driver
slipper clutch woble on my GT as well as my T3.
AssRC10GT wrote in message <19990306014145...@ng-fs1.aol.com>...
Jim Newstead
>
> Well, I got my GT kit and I have started to assemble it. Everything has gone
> well until I got to the tranny(bearings). When I first assembled it, the brake
> was engaging a little all the time, making the tranny rough. However, when I
> got it installed, everything adjusted and the tranny was great, problem solved,
> the first problem that is. The I went on to the rear suspension and now I am
> in trouble. I attached the A-arms and now the spur gear rubs on the 3 degree
> A-arm mount. It seems that the spur gear is wobbling a liitle when I turn it.
> I am going to dissasemble the clutch and see if a bushing or spacer is
> misplaced, but if that does not fix it, what should I do? I hope nothing is
> bent, haven't dropped anything, and no difficuties putting the tranny together.
> My next idea is to carve away a liitle of the suspension mount, is that a good
> idea?C\
> Craig
It might have something to do with #7554 plastic disc brake
adapter.Duratrax sells a steel brake adapter or you can upgrade to the
calandra racing concepts brass disk brake it comes with a aluminum disk
brake adapter.But I took my Dremel to the side of the steel chassis
that was close to the spur gear.
ptkei...@computron.net
trucks, and they both work fine. There has been no runout in the spur, and
I'm running the 66 tooth. You need to be sure you have the correct A-arm
mount on the right side, as it is relieved to clear the spur gear. Also, the
slip clutch washer must fit in the slight recess on the outer clutch disk.
The correct stack on the input shaft against the inner slip clutch disk is
brass bushing (rounded edges), aluminum washer, brass washer (thicker, square
edges), aluminum washer, spring, nylon insert nut. I disassemble and
reassemble these every time we blow a spur gear, which isn't that often. Oh,
and be sure to locktite the spur gear screws.
Good luck.
Pete Keillor
In article <Uz9E2.607$0W6...@news20.bellglobal.com>,
"RC10 T3/GT Driver" <rc10gt...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> You are pretty lucky if you don't have woble on you slipper clutch. The
> slipper clutch woble on my GT as well as my T3.
>
> AssRC10GT wrote in message <19990306014145...@ng-fs1.aol.com>...
> >every thing is fine on my gt...not woble or gear rubbing AE did a fine job
> but
> >i also run 64 th spur's u guys are probably using 66's and that can
> contribute
<snip>
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Kevin M
ptkei...@computron.net wrote in message
<7bssou$2i8$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
>Guys, are you using the sport or team trucks? I've built two of
the team
>trucks, and they both work fine. There has been no runout in
the spur, and
Same here....even with the 66 tooth spur.
Kev