SIG SE Pushrod Binding Problem
Mark T
and rudder pushrods binding. The inner tube is in perfect shape (no
kinks/bends) and fits well into the outer tube, but there seems to be a
little too much resistance when trying to move the pushrods back and forth
than there should be. Any advice on how to solve this would be greatly
appreciated? Lightly sanding, lubrication, etc?
Ingo Hill
inner tube a hell of a lot and making the ends of the outer tube wider. I
also found that the servos were too close to the former where the outer tube
ends and simply cut a hole around the outer tube and "mounted it" with spare
balsa further back to allow more flexibility. One has to be careful about
this, since letting the tube flex too much reduces the throws under load
(while flying). This is definately not the best way to fix the binding
problem that I had. I'm sure there are better ways to do it.
I'm also curious about lubrication.. But that would attract dust and dirt..
Ingo
Mark T <t...@kg.hsanet.net> wrote in message
news:s8a1u3...@corp.supernews.com...
Alec Davidson
Mark T <t...@kg.hsanet.net> wrote in article
<s8a1u3...@corp.supernews.com>...
> I am close to finishing my SIG SE and am having difficulty with the
elevator
> and rudder pushrods binding. The inner tube is in perfect shape (no
> kinks/bends) and fits well into the outer tube, but there seems to be a
> little too much resistance when trying to move the pushrods back and
forth
> than there should be. Any advice on how to solve this would be greatly
> appreciated? Lightly sanding, lubrication, etc?
>
>
>
I had that problem with my 1st SE, so I went to Pull-Pull cables on both
tail surfaces on my 2nd. I strongly recommend this setup as extreme throws
present no binding problems. Alec
Mark T
set up pull-pull "systems" in your SIG SE? Specifically, where did you
mount the elevator and rudder servos? I would guess, the rudder servo
should ideally be centered in the back of the servo-bay with 2 cables going
to the oposite sides of the rudder, but unsure of how to "rig" the
elevator. Did you use 2 servos installed in the fusalage sides near the
tail, or 1 servo mounted sideways in the servo-bay? I'm fairly new in the
RC world (only 2nd plane), so any info would be greatly appreciated.
FairlyFit
rear with a pushrod to each elevator half. The servo tray supplied with the kit
was not used. The elevator servo is mounted on it's side (to eliminate
differential to the elevator halves due to rotary motion of the servo arm) and
towards the back of the radio compartment. A pull-pull arrangement was
installed with the rudder servo directly in front of (and just slightly above)
the elevator servo; the cables run to the rudder with no interference anywhere.
Power is a YS 53 4-stroke and I couldn't be happier! Good luck, Bill Tucker in
Denver
Lynwood Matteson
fuselage at the rear. I used an inner rod from a Goldenrod kit, which has
a fluted outer surface. This breaks that smooth-surface-to-smooth-surface
bond that seems to stick when you go to extreme control deflections. I may
eventually have to do this with the rudder too, but haven't noticed this
being a problem yet.
Lynn
Mark T <t...@kg.hsanet.net> wrote:
: I am close to finishing my SIG SE and am having difficulty with the elevator
Larrry Fishel
planes I've owned, these are the only two that had nylon-in-nylon
pushrods and the only two that had binding problems...go figure. I had
forgotten about the 4*40 when I built the SE or I would have used
something else to start with. Removing the outer tubes was not really
an option by the time I realized the problem, so I did the same thing
someone suggested back then for the 4*40. I just replaced the whole
inner assembly with a 2-56 flexible steel pushrod. Z-bend on one end
and a clevice on the other. It sounds like you would have a flexing
problem, but I can't tell the difference, except it doesn't bind. Seems
like about the same weight, and requires no changes to the plane if the
outer tube is already installed...
Mark T wrote:
>
> I am close to finishing my SIG SE and am having difficulty with the elevator
> and rudder pushrods binding. The inner tube is in perfect shape (no
> kinks/bends) and fits well into the outer tube, but there seems to be a
> little too much resistance when trying to move the pushrods back and forth
> than there should be. Any advice on how to solve this would be greatly
> appreciated? Lightly sanding, lubrication, etc?
--
Larry D. Fishel
lfi...@gate.net
http://www.gate.net/~lfishel
NAskydog
elevator servo and let the wires cross so they exited farther back in the tail
where they were supposed to and I used an extra long servo arm and large
control horns with soldered golden clevises at the control horn and at the
servo arm I threaded the wire through a small piece of brass tube through the
servo arm hole and back through the brass tube. Crimp the tube and whaaalaaa!
Blue skies,
Ray
webspuds
with vaseline, and went flying. The "micro-motion" caused by
normal flying vibration was enough to "wear in", or "lap" the
points of friction to produce a nice smooth operation after a
few flights.
In article <s8a1u3...@corp.supernews.com>,
"Mark T" <t...@kg.hsanet.net> wrote:
> I am close to finishing my SIG SE and am having difficulty with the
elevator
> and rudder pushrods binding. The inner tube is in perfect shape (no
> kinks/bends) and fits well into the outer tube, but there seems to be
a
> little too much resistance when trying to move the pushrods back and
forth
> than there should be. Any advice on how to solve this would be
greatly
> appreciated? Lightly sanding, lubrication, etc?
>
>
--
We B. Spuds
AKA "webspuds"
webs...@hotmail.com
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Bill Fulmer
Lubricating Nyrods will only cause dust and dirt to migrate into the pushrod
housing and cause more binding, servo overload, high current draw, etc....
Bill
http://rcplanet.com/grafix/
webspuds <webs...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:867tik$mkn$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
Lawrence Cragg
long enough to go into the fuselage at maximum. Otherwise, the rod gets too close
to a bend in the outer tube and then it binds.
I also found that mine was horribly dimensionally unstable. Consequently, I
swapped the inner nylon for a carbon fibre rod. Still must make sure the
stiffening rod where it exits the fuselage is not too long.
Cheers
Lawrence Cragg, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Lynwood Matteson wrote:
> I noticed this on my elevator mostly, and right where it exits the
> fuselage at the rear. I used an inner rod from a Goldenrod kit, which has
> a fluted outer surface. This breaks that smooth-surface-to-smooth-surface
> bond that seems to stick when you go to extreme control deflections. I may
> eventually have to do this with the rudder too, but haven't noticed this
> being a problem yet.
>
> Lynn
>
Tim
What about graphite dry lubricant?
Tim
Lynwood Matteson
it from the outer tube exit area. I don't fly mine so extreme that I'm
going to worry about a possible kink in this now-unsupported area. Maybe
when I get more time on the plane I'll eat those words, but for now, it's
ok. Anybody ever retrofit an SE with pull-pulls after it was together?
I've given that some thought but I'm not inclined to really go after that
project just yet.
Lynn
Lawrence Cragg <Cr...@inforamp.net> wrote:
: Make sure that the rod inside the rod where it exits the fuselage is only just
Bill Fulmer
Bill
http://rcplanet.com/grafix/
Tim <tben...@usit.net> wrote in message news:3887C281...@usit.net...
Herbert M. Winston
locksmith's stores. It's sold as an alternative to the black stuff to avoid
the staining problems after injecting it into home & auto lock cylinders.
Herb Winston "High Flyer"
"Bill Fulmer" <gra...@cajun.net> wrote in message
news:s8haqjp...@corp.supernews.com...
Tim
Bill Fulmer wrote:
> Worx great if you like black everything...<G>
Can't be much worse than a plane with castor all over it flying off a grass
field...in the dry summer heat. ;-)
My red Fazer always ended up with black leading edges and was pretty nasty all
over due to to all the dead dry grass.
Tim
Joe Willmann
The only thing I did was clean up the end where the push rod exits the rear of
the aitplane. A little carefull work opening things up after sanding and
covering. Then I took a drill bit the same size is the ID of the tube and
manually, with my fingers, cleaned up the exits. Then the inner tube was
insertind from the hatch and slid toward the aft end. There was no restiction
at all all the way out to the control horn. Then I tempoarily stuffed an
uncut metal push rod inside the inner tube and had no biding either. I ended
up cutting the metal push rod about 1 inch longer than the distance from the
horn to the fuse at max through. Then following the direction. There is no
drag or binding anywhere.
MAybe I was lucky.
In article <nz8i4.1114$Jq4....@news2.jacksonville.net>, "Herbert M. Winston"
<dete...@mediaone.net> wrote:
)Another dry lubricant option is "white powdered lube", sometimes found in
)locksmith's stores. It's sold as an alternative to the black stuff to avoid
)the staining problems after injecting it into home & auto lock cylinders.
)Herb Winston "High Flyer"
)"Bill Fulmer" <gra...@cajun.net> wrote in message
)news:s8haqjp...@corp.supernews.com...
)> Worx great if you like black everything...<G>
)>
)> Bill
)> http://rcplanet.com/grafix/
)> Tim <tben...@usit.net> wrote in message
)news:3887C281...@usit.net...
)> >
)> > What about graphite dry lubricant?
)> >
)> > Tim
)> >
)> > Bill Fulmer wrote:
)> >
)> > > Not good....
)> > >
)> > > Lubricating Nyrods will only cause dust and dirt to migrate into the
)> pushrod
)> > > housing and cause more binding, servo overload, high current draw,
)> etc....
)> >
)>
)>
)
)
These opinions are my own, not the company I work for.
I apologize for the error in my email address. To email me remove the jnkmail.
Joe Willmann
NAskydog
the rudder servo was centered. I then layed out the wires on the plan in both
plan and section to show me where the path of the wires would be horizontally
and vertically. I carved out this path through each former and crossed the
wires so that the exit point would be further back. You might need to remove a
piece of covering to do all this after the fact. I get a full 4 inches of
rudder throw with 1" added to the leading edge and the inside edges of the
elevators cut back.
Blue skies,
Ray
Lynwood Matteson
with mine already together and flying. Kinda like doing surgery, I
suppose. I haven't used a P-P set-up yet (except for the tailwheel on my
P-40) for control surfaces, and have been eager to try, so this may be the
guinea pig. :)
Lynn
Bob Adkins <bo...@mindspring.com> wrote:
: "On 21 Jan 2000 18:14:46 GMT,Lynwood Matteson
: <itlc...@logan.ucdavis.edu> wrote:
: "
:>ok. Anybody ever retrofit an SE with pull-pulls after it was together?
:>I've given that some thought but I'm not inclined to really go after that
:>project just yet.
: No, but it's no different than doing it new. I'm assuming you have a
: straight shot from your servos to the horns on the tail. The pull pull
: strings can exit close to the tail, or far away...it makes no
: difference. I don't use any guide tubes at all, even for the exits. I
: suppose if the wood at the exit points is hard ply, some short nylon
: tubes would be prudent to prevent fraying the string.
: "From the Heart of Cajun Country"
: Bob
Willert
binding problems. I was going to instal them until I talked with a friend of mine
and mentioned the binding problems that I have heard about. He claims that once
the inner push rods get dirty at all, from oil or dirt or the slightest amount of
balsa dust, that they will bind up. By the second season you won't be able to fly
the plane safely. He claims that this is why the Sullivan ni-rod push rod system
has ribs on the inner push rod. ( the yellow one). That is to prevent binding. I
have put the construction of my kit on hold at the push rod installation until I
can get some Sullivan ni-rod push rods. I figure it is easier to install them now
rather than next season.
Joe.