JR radio internal battery
ahdofu
opened the radio compartment to find a 3V button battery that is
basically soldered in to the printed circuit board. As I did not have
the proper replacement parts I had to send mine in for repairs. I'm
quite ticked off with JR's installation method. I'm curious whether
someone out there has figured out a way to replace this battery with a
battery housing (& a battery).
Ray Haddad
"ahdofu" <ahd...@yahoo.com> instead replied:
Those batteries typically have a shelf life and useable life of
around 10 years. Ordinarily, that's more than enough time to get
100% use from it before you replace your equipment. Any other kind
of holder would not be reliable enough for backup memory. Standard
practice was to use a soldered connection for reliability. Today,
they use non-volatile RAM for storing things like programs and such.
Real time clocks still use a lithium battery which may or may not be
soldered in place.
--
Ray
ahdofu
into question whether it is worth repairing the radio. Unfortunately my
radio works just fine (at least it used to) and I just find it a waste
to toss a perfectly OK radio. My old sport watch never failed in use
and yet I could unscrew the battery cover and swap the battery with a
new one. For JR perhaps cost was a factor or perhaps it was the
reliability issue that you've mentioned but to me this is subpar
engineering. Thanks for your comments though.
Ed Cregger
"ahdofu" <ahd...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1167369895....@n51g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> I'm guessing that the repairs will cost around $50. This amount brings
> into question whether it is worth repairing the radio. Unfortunately my
> radio works just fine (at least it used to) and I just find it a waste
> to toss a perfectly OK radio. My old sport watch never failed in use
> and yet I could unscrew the battery cover and swap the battery with a
> new one. For JR perhaps cost was a factor or perhaps it was the
> reliability issue that you've mentioned but to me this is subpar
> engineering. Thanks for your comments though.
---------------
What really ticks me off is that when the memory battery dies, or is
disconnected, the radio's computer drops its operating system. Not only do
you have to return it to get the battery replaced, but they also have to
reload the operating system. Even if one had a proper battery holder,
removing it without offering the system back up voltage in the interim would
lead to an R/C transmitter that doesn't know if it is a scanner/TV
set/microwave oven, etc.
Are you sure that the newer JR rigs use non volatile RAM? I wouldn't assume
so without some form of verification. Icom amateur radios did the same thing
for a while. We hams raised cane on them for this dufus form of engineering.
Happy New Year.
Ed Cregger
funfly3
would be in an EPROM of some description, as backing up a few bytes of
user changeable data is one thing,storing the OS that does not change is
something else
Ed Cregger
"funfly3" <donte...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:SB6lh.16586$1W1....@newsfe4-win.ntli.net...
See how ridiculous the idea sounds? Yep, my JR X-347 drops the operating
system if you break battery continuity.
I don't know if my JR 8103 and 9303 are the same way. I hope not.
Ed Cregger
funfly3
,there must be a logical reason like the price of Eproms over volatile
ram or something similar
ahdofu
battery failure the radio was still functional except that all of my
programming had been erased. Now if the radio loses its functionality
all toghether then that is really a poor/cheap (I have more colorful
words) design. I grew curious following your question and checked the
XP9303 manual. There it says that all programming data is stored in
flash memory. It also appears that there is no internal battery to
replace either. If this is the case then it is good that JR has learned
from its design flaws.
Happy new year to all,
Matt
daytripper
Perhaps it was simple stupidity.
"Brand F" has been using flash for over a decade...
Ed Cregger
> Mine is an X388S which, I think, came after the X347. Following the
> battery failure the radio was still functional except that all of my
> programming had been erased. Now if the radio loses its functionality
> all toghether then that is really a poor/cheap (I have more colorful
> words) design. I grew curious following your question and checked the
> XP9303 manual. There it says that all programming data is stored in
> flash memory. It also appears that there is no internal battery to
> replace either. If this is the case then it is good that JR has learned
> from its design flaws.
>
> Happy new year to all,
> Matt
-----------------------
You know, now I remember that the 388 didn't use that battery to hold the
main OS of the radio. Thanks for jumping in there. I think the X-347 was the
last of those rigs.
I can live if just the channel memories are lost, although, these days,
there isn't any excuse for that either. Who knows, maybe today's radios do
not lose the channel memories.
Nevermind....! <G>
Ed Cregger
Ed Cregger
"daytripper" <day_t...@REMOVEyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:l2jap2lbroj1fkqse...@4ax.com...
---------------
I'll have you know that I have this simple stupidity thing down pat! <G>
Another poster said that the X-347 was the last JR to use the system that I
mentioned previously. The next radio, the 388 and on up, did not use the
memory battery to hold the OS. It all came back to me when he mentioned the
388.
Ed Cregger
Hugh Prescott
battery in early JR radios.
Was told but the JR tech that only they had the skill and technical know
how to change the battery.
Complained to the highest up and was told much the same, I said BS, then
he admitted that it was possible and that the processor had to be
restarted with a jumper to reload the default values. That the system
was programmed to lock up if there was a RAM error.
I asked what pin to what pin to jumper, was then told that the
information was secret and proprietary.
Send it in and pay your money boy we are the all powerful
Hugh
50+ years of designing, prototyping, repairing RC systems.
Ed Cregger
"Hugh Prescott" <hug...@adams.net> wrote in message
news:45958...@newsfeed.slurp.net...
----------
So the OS was present on ROM, but you had to know how to initiate it. That
would make more sense.
Ed Cregger
quietguy
of leads - and solder (or clip if possible) them to the board in parallel
with the JR battery to keeps things going while you remove the old one and
solder in the new one.
Doesn't seem too hard, but I haven't tried it
David
Ed Cregger
"quietguy" <post...@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message
news:4595CA5B...@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
> Sounds like one would get a 3v (or whatever is used) source with a couple
> of leads - and solder (or clip if possible) them to the board in parallel
> with the JR battery to keeps things going while you remove the old one and
> solder in the new one.
>
> Doesn't seem too hard, but I haven't tried it
>
> David
Yep, that's how it is done, unless you are forgetful like me and don't get
around to it in time. Now I have a JR X-347 in like brand new condition that
doesn't know it is a radio. Should I spend the money to bring it up to date?
I have an 8103, a brand new still in the box 9303, a DX-6 and a DX-7
Spektrum radios. Oh, what shall I do?
My legs are bad from diabetes, so my ability to walk is very limited.
Believe it or not, this is why I bought the Spektrum radios - so I wouldn't
have to walk to the frequency control board and back again after finishing
flying for the day. No other reasons. Well, maybe some curiosity.
Anyone want to buy a brand new, never flown 9303 on six meter PCM with four
standard servos? I'll let it go for $450 plus shipping (48 US contiguous
states only). IIRC, this saves the buy $200. It should be on 50 MHz channel
04. New the end of last summer. Never removed from the box. No, I won't go
lower in price. US Postal money order only.
Ed Cregger
MK
mk
(-.-.--.-)
"Ed Cregger" <ecre...@bellsouff.net> wrote in message
news:A5mlh.14941$AY1...@bignews5.bellsouth.net...
David Hopper
<mjmwcsREMOV...@htcomp.net> wrote:
>Would I have to brush up on my code?
>mk
>(-.-.--.-)
Not anymore:
http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2006/12/15/104/?nc=1
--
David - WD4JKH
Valid email: nospa...@bellsouth.net
KGB
wrote:
>I had a "discussion" with JR and later with R.Stephens about the backup
>battery in early JR radios.
>
>Was told but the JR tech that only they had the skill and technical know
>how to change the battery.
>
>Complained to the highest up and was told much the same, I said BS, then
>he admitted that it was possible and that the processor had to be
>restarted with a jumper to reload the default values. That the system
>was programmed to lock up if there was a RAM error.
>
>I asked what pin to what pin to jumper, was then told that the
>information was secret and proprietary.
Hi
As the "proud" owner of 2 JR radios - an X-347 and an X-388, the 347
at least being well over ten years old (nearer fifteen I think) but
still working well, this thread has rather spoilt my Christmas as it
seem that both sets are well overdue for self-destructing!!!!
However, having had too much homebrew last night and having blurred
vision and shaky hands as a result, this morning seemed the obvious
time to delve into the innards of my X-347. So having taken the back
off, undone every screw in sight, unplugged every connector I could
find, turned it upside down and shaken it, I was left with a workbench
of assorted bits and the odd screw and spring bouncing round the floor
- strewth, that's were the cunning devils hid the backup battery is
it, I have often wondered. Having stirred the pile of bits with my
finger and poked them a few times with a screwdriver I finally
realized, "Taking that apart perhaps wasn't a very sensible idea!!".
Having just re-assembled it without too many bits left over - just one
screw actually (said proudly) - and finally figuring out where the 6
little springs went, I took a deep breath and turned it on. There was
immediately a continuous warning buzz and a "backup error" message on
the screen. However, after a couple of seconds, the warning buzz
stopped and the display reverted to normal. It now appears that all my
personal model settings have been lost and the Tx has reverted to its
original factory settings, otherwise all seems fine.
Is this an indication that perhaps not all X-347 sets are the same and
if I were to replace the backup battery, I would not lose the
programming - or isn't life that simple??
One thing I would point out is that I live in the UK so mine is a
British radio - so could it be that UK sets are different and do not
lose the programming?
Regards
KGB
Abel Pranger
<FedUpW...@NoEmailAddre.ss> (KGB) wrote:
>One thing I would point out is that I live in the UK so mine is a
>British radio - so could it be that UK sets are different and do not
>lose the programming?
Could be...........does it drip oil?
Abel
KGB
Hi
Actually, it very nearly does just that.
A few years ago, I played around with diesel powered models. Since
then, the silver finish on the front of the X-347 has gone all soft
and wrinkly (a bit like myself!!!).
I am not certain of the reason, but my best bet is that the ether
content of the diesel fuel acted as a solvent for the paint or
whatever the silver finish is. Certainly it got well covered in
diesel fuel. My other JR Tx (X-388) has only ever been used for glow
models and the silver finish is still fine.
I cannot figure out why some flyers at the field always have
immaculate trannies and mine usually look as though they have just
been dragged from the trash can, usually ending a day's flying covered
in oil and liberally dripping model fuel - and yes I do clean them
when I get home. 8^)
Regards
KGB
ahdofu
the battery. On my X388S it is attached to the printed circuit board
that is under the keypad. If you remove the back and then remove the
left hand stick (without removing the leads) you should be able to peak
underneath the printed circuit board to see the battery in the corner.
The battery is soldered in. It is a 3V button type lithium battery with
leads. Anyway since you're getting the backup error this means that
your radio will not be able to hold your programming and you'll need to
send it in for battery replacement. However if you're handy with
electronics and have access to parts I don't see why you cannot find a
3v lithium with a housing to replace that pesky soldered in battery
yourself.
Best of luck,
MN
Frank Schwartz
For what it's worth:
I had two of the JR 10 first model transmitters...at least fifteen
years old. A "friend" replaced both batteries in them. He bridged the
lands where the unit was soldered in so it would not lose anything.
He complained that the original battery had welded solder tabs to
facilitate installation. The replacement batteries he got were the
exact same ones (Radio Shack) and he soldered wires to them and
installed them. Worked fine. A few years later, I sent them both
in to JR for other service and they replaced the batteries he put in
there and noted that it had been a poorly done job. I never told
him as I didn't want to hurt his feelings...
I still have one of the 10 transmitters and sold the other to a
member of our R/C club. Both are working just fine....
Frank Schwartz
Fubar of The HillPeople
After the first, the code requirements will be dropped for all classes.
Time to upgrade to a General Class, I think!
--
Dan
AMA605992
KE6ERB
http://www.fubar1.net
"I've heard the screams of the vegetables..."
Take out the "trash" to reply
"MK" <mjmwcsREMOV...@htcomp.net> wrote in message
news:lwLlh.5606$yx6....@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
ahdofu
not like direct heat so that was not an option. My local Radio Shack
did have the plain battery itself but nothing with attached leads. For
me finding a housing and a battery combination was the right approach.
Unfotunately I was not able to find one and since I needed my radio
right away I sent mine in for repairs.
Ed Cregger
licensing.
Ed Cregger
"MK" <mjmwcsREMOV...@htcomp.net> wrote in message
news:lwLlh.5606$yx6....@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Ed Cregger
Ed Cregger
"Abel Pranger" <abel_p...@ohiostate1.com> wrote in message
news:7ekfp291gtb5j03m6...@4ax.com...
daytripper
wrote:
>
>"MK" <mjmwcsREMOV...@htcomp.net> wrote in message
>news:lwLlh.5606$yx6....@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>> Would I have to brush up on my code?
>> mk
>> (-.-.--.-)
>Believe it or not, the FCC just did away with the code test for ham radio
>licensing.
>
>Ed Cregger
And it's about time...
Ed Cregger
Ed Cregger
"daytripper" <day_t...@REMOVEyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hb4gp2tmi32sq3gjf...@4ax.com...
Hugh Prescott
My service notes from the last one I replaced a battery in (using
jumpers and soldered on leads so I did not lose the settings) I used a
BR-1632 Panasonic lithium cell.
Yes the cell is under the lower circut board.
One source is DigiKey http://www.digikey.com but they have a $25 mimium
order but ship as late as 7 PM central time.
Hugh
Hugh Prescott
>>> screw actually (said proudly) - and finally figuring out where the 6
>>> little springs went, I took a deep breath and turned it on. There was
>>> immediately a continuous warning buzz and a "backup error" message on
>>> the screen. However, after a couple of seconds, the warning buzz
>>> stopped and the display reverted to normal. It now appears that all my
>>> personal model settings have been lost and the Tx has reverted to its
>>> original factory settings, otherwise all seems fine.
Luckey you!
>>>
>>> Is this an indication that perhaps not all X-347 sets are the same and
>>> if I were to replace the backup battery, I would not lose the
>>> programming - or isn't life that simple??
Since JR will not release any details of modifications you are taking a
chance here that they different versions or you were just very lucky.
>>>
>>> One thing I would point out is that I live in the UK so mine is a
>>> British radio - so could it be that UK sets are different and do not
>>> lose the programming?
At least they are made by Lucas, the darksun company.
Hugh
former owner of a late 1950's era MG ZA in my college days.
>>>
>>> Regards
>>>
>>>
>>> KGB
>>
>>
>>
ahdofu
I checked the website and five items came up under BR-1632. The
specification for all looks
to be the same though. Under the description it says batt with legs. Do
legs means leads? Anyway I checked for BR-1632 on the web and found it
in Amazon (see link). I think I can work with something like this.
Although I've already sent mine in now I know what do in future. Thanks
for the info.
MN
http://www.amazon.com/BR1632-WC-Batteries-com-Compaq-Armada-Battery/dp/B000984OKK
Hugh Prescott
If you are careful and can get it in place without interfering with the
mechanics it will work.
The exact cell is one with two welded leads bent so the cell lays flat
when soldered to the PCB.
Our supplier, DigiKey, calls it a P203ND Panasonic part number
BR1632A/HA Is a 3 volt 120 MAH cell, standard design drain is 0.03 MA.
16 mm diameter and 3.2 mm high cell / 8.8 mm height with pins.
I really have no experience with soldering pins to the battery. It is
really small and I think there is a considerable risk to do heat damage
or shorten cell life by overheating it.
Our policy on electronic repairs is to only use the original part
configuration for all repairs unless their is a recognized or necessary
upgrade to return the item to service.
Reduces our liability exposure.
Hugh
Six_O'Clock_High
Nah, he got the Lucas Prince of Darkness version.
ahdofu
like the one in the Amazon instead. Inside the radio itself I'll be
attaching a male conector to the leads on the printed circuit (in lieu
of the existing battery) and then I simply connect the battery from
Amazon to the male connector. Inside the Radio compartment there are
enough room where I can use a double tape to attach the loose battery
to something.
frenchomebuilder
My X347 transmitter wad dead, no beep and no display when powering .
First I measured voltage on BU bat , only some mV.
I soldered a 1.5 V battery, using wires to the BU points, fusing the
positive solder bridge.
Then I removed the dead BU Bat.
I removed from it the two stainless steel flags and resoldered to the
new battery, a watch 2032 bat, put in on location, soldered and
simultaeously rebuilt the bridge and removed the 1.5V battery.
Then I switched on power, and rebooted as Ron explained me ( only
shortcut between 2 points) : long beep, I switched off.
I switched on, magic, all program was there, and no need to recal .
I checked it on many program steps and all I checked is good, servos
neutrals and ranges, dual rates and mixes.
I will fly one of these good first spring days.
May be I' ve been lucky.
Andre
--
frenchomebuilder
------------------------------------------------------------------------
frenchomebuilder's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=128788
View this thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=617348
Storm's Hamilton
news:frenchomebu...@rcgroups.com...
>
> My X347 transmitter wad dead, no beep and no display when powering .
> First I measured voltage on BU bat , only some mV.
> I soldered a 1.5 V battery, using wires to the BU points, fusing the
> positive solder bridge.
> Then I removed the dead BU Bat.
> I removed from it the two stainless steel flags and resoldered to the
> new battery, a watch 2032 bat, put in on location, soldered and
> simultaeously rebuilt the bridge and removed the 1.5V battery.
> Then I switched on power, and rebooted as Ron explained me ( only
> shortcut between 2 points) : long beep, I switched off.
> I switched on, magic, all program was there, and no need to recal .
> I checked it on many program steps and all I checked is good, servos
> neutrals and ranges, dual rates and mixes.
> I will fly one of these good first spring days.
> May be I' ve been lucky.
> Andre
>
>
> --
> frenchomebuilder
Good job.
mk
Ed Cregger
"Storm's Hamilton" <htcomp.net@storms> wrote in message
news:12r02vh...@corp.supernews.com...
Which two points do you have to short in the X-347 in order to get it to
reboot? TIA
Ed Cregger
frenchomebuilder
Look the board on wich is located the BU bat. Under the piece of
plastic, is written "R" on a large vertical track. Close on the right,
2 pads to be shorten. The back part of the radio must be connected.
Switch on power , short the points just a time, and life is at new
going on .
Excuse my poor english.
André
Ed Cregger
"frenchomebuilder" <frenchomebu...@rcgroups.com> wrote in message
news:frenchomebu...@rcgroups.com...
>
> plastic, is written "R" on a large vertical track. Close on the right,
> 2 pads to be shorten. The back part of the radio must be connected.
> Switch on power , short the points just a time, and life is at new
> going on .
> Excuse my poor english.
-----------
Thanks, Andre. I'll get the old X347 going again, thanks to you.
Your English is infinitely better than my French. Take care.
Ed Cregger
frenchomebuilder
Please let me know, so I will understand if I' ve been lucky or not
....
Have a good day
killabx
frenchomebuilder Wrote:
> Look the board on wich is located the BU bat. Under the piece of
> plastic, is written "R" on a large vertical track. Close on the right,
> 2 pads to be shorten. The back part of the radio must be connected.
> Switch on power , short the points just a time, and life is at new
> going on .
> Excuse my poor english.
> André
Thanks André!
Before I start, I need to mention that most of what I talk about here
shouldn't be attempted by everybody. If you have any doubts, send it
in for service!
So, here's my story.... I've had my JR X-347 for 13 or 14 years now,
and it's been one of those expensive purchases that I haven't once
regretted. It was, and still is, an excellent radio.
My backup battery started to fail, giving me the "BACKUP ERR" message.
Not to repeat too much of what's already been said, the battery is on
the front side of the circuit board that's behind the buttons on the
front side of the controller. I should warn you that if you take this
apart, it is VERY difficult to get both the springs and buttons back in
place! So don't even attempt this unless you're totally committed to
doing it yourself.
I replaced the battery with one I ordered from www.mouser.com, item
number 614-CR2032FH-LF, and cost about $8 including shipping. (Mouser
doesn't have the $25 minimum order that Digikey has) It's the same
size battery, and has the tabs on it so you can solder it directly to
the circuit board just as the original battery. I should also mention
that if your soldering (and desoldering) skills aren't very good, you
should reconsider even attempting this.
I found this out the hard way, but you'll want to solder or clip a 3V
voltage source onto pins common to the battery before you start. Then
replace the battery, remove the voltage source, put everything back
together, and you're done.
If you weren't paying attention, or you just happened to have replaced
the battery without knowing that you had to apply the 3V voltage source
(as I found out the hard way), you'll turn on your radio and nothing
will come on the display. You'll need to reset the radio's
microcontroller. Thanks to André, I played around with the pins a
little and found the right ones to do the trick. If you look at the
picture attached to this message, you short out the red pins with the
controller turned on. The controller will beep and go into a
calibration mode. You probably don't want to mess around in there at
all, but just turn off the radio and turn it back on, and it should be
back to normal.
Now, I've been to other message boards and they suggest that it needs
to be recalibrated after you replace the battery as I did. The
mentioned recalibrating the battery voltage and the stick throw limits.
The configuration menu you see when you first reset the microcontroller
appears to set all of these. I plan to hook up my scope to the battery
to recalibrate that, but that's about all I would know how to do. I
haven't yet found any information on how to calibrate the rest. I did
notice that some of the values are non-zero, so I'm hoping that it had
some sort of non-volatile memory and saved the calibration settings,
but I'm not sure if that's the case or not. If it is, everything is
good. If not, then I'll probably have to send it in to get it
calibrated anyway. I would also suspect that a recalibration might be
necessary once the "BACKUP ERR" message is seen for the first time,
regardless of whether or not you hooked up a voltage source when
changing the battery out.
Ryan
P.S. If the picture doesn't show up, look under the plastic film on
the circuit board the battery was on. You'll see an "R" on a wide
trace. If you follow this trace back to the battery, you'll notice
it's a ground trace. The microcontroller pins are to the right of the
"R". If I was using my head a little more, I would have thought to try
to reset the microcontroller, looked up the pinouts of the controller,
and found the reset pin. They typically have a reset pin that you
either pull high or ground out to reset the microcontroller. I don't
know if the pin I found is the reset, and I haven't looked up the
microcontroller. So there's a chance that it is something else that
just happens to reset the microcontroller. Again, try all of this at
your own risk! But anyway, it's the fourth pin of the microcontroller
starting with the pin on the bottom left, if you're looking at the side
of the circuit board with the traces.
P.P.S If you want to know about what the service menu does (for
calibration, etc...) check out:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428810&highlight=347
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
|Filename: JR_X-347_Reset.jpg |
|Download: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1261988 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
--
killabx
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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MiQ27
Hi
I bought an old JR X347 on eBay. The backup battery was about to fail
and I replaced it without any backing voltage. Transmitter switched on
without any problems (of course the model settings were lost, but
still, they weren't mine :) ), so maybe there are different versions of
this transmitter, or maybe I was just lucky. That time :)
But several days later my wife accidentally pulled the charging cord
and JR hit the floor. Two days later transmitter died, switching it on
brought only a light tick from the speaker. I guessed, that the CPU's
crystal was broken. I soldered another xtal and JR turned on (but the
channel times and timer were way off...). I had to order replacement
crystal (especially manufactured for me because of unusual frequency)
and after a month of waiting for new crystal my X347 was again up and
running.
--
MiQ27
------------------------------------------------------------------------
MiQ27's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=160034
Ed Cregger
"MiQ27" <MiQ27....@rcgroups.com> wrote in message
news:MiQ27....@rcgroups.com...
Which country are you in? That would make all of the difference in the
world. So to speak. <G>
Ed Cregger
MiQ27
Hi
I'm from Poland, but my JR is from Germany :)
It's model number is probably more important - it's NET-C127EZ
Mike
Hugh Prescott
The following was posted somewhere on the Internet
Ryan
frenchomebuilder Wrote:
> Look the board on wich is located the BU bat. Under the piece of
> plastic, is written "R" on a large vertical track. Close on the right,
> 2 pads to be shorted. The back part of the radio must be connected.
> Switch on power , short the points just a time, and life is at new
> going on .
> Excuse my poor english.
> André
Hugh
Ed Cregger
"Hugh Prescott" <hug...@adams.net> wrote in message
news:m6CdnSBp_tmFZRrb...@enscoop.com...
I bought a new JR X-347 in 1992. Flew it a few times, fell ill and it has
sat ever since. Yes, the backup battery died long ago.
I did change the main battery a couple of times, but never got back to it.
Oh, I did use it with Real Flight Sim #1 for a while, so it isn't absolutely
pristine, as far as stick pot wear is concerned, but still very low time. It
looks brand new.
When I got back to flying again, I picked up an 8103 and eventually a 9303.
Now both of them are sitting since I moved to Spektrum and Futaba 2.4 GHz
stuff.
I guess it is time to sell off some of the old systems since I have no
intention of going back to six meter or 72 MHz freqs.
Ed Cregger
Ed Forsythe
If you decide to sell your 9303 please keep me in mind. I have a 9303 with
an XPS Extreme Link 2.4GHz module. Should need arise I can just plug in my
72MHz modules. Why? If I must send one the other back for maintenance I am
not grounded. Having a spare 9303 would eliminate being grounded when a TX
required maintenance. IMHO, the 9303 is the best (Futaba fans - I said IMHO
;-)) All early reports indicate that the FASST system is good also but the
Spektrum low voltage drop out problem has caused many crashes including one
by QQ. Good luck with your new systems and don't let that 9303 gather dust.
It deserves a loving owner! :-) Ed, why not keep that magnificent 9303 and
buy a spectrum module to replace the 72MHz module? *Or* go XPS - cheaper,
more reliable, and more options.
"Ed Cregger" <ecre...@bellsouff.net> wrote in message
news:xY_hi.4697$3a....@bignews9.bellsouth.net...
Ed Cregger
"Ed Forsythe" <EdFor...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4_SdnSo9ltJZmRTb...@giganews.com...
I hear you, Ed. I'll keep you in mind.
I have thought about doing some of the things you mentioned, with the third
party 2.4 GHz stuff.
Ed Cregger
Ed Forsythe
Check out XPS here; http://www.xtremepowersystems.net You're in for a
surprise. Jim Drew is the CEO, and he is a pilot. Jim spends a great deal
of time on his NGs answering questions and listening to suggestions, many of
which he has adopted by changing firmware *and* hardware! Check out the
*Forums* tab in the left frame and don't neglect to scroll all the way down
on the main page for a complete description of the XPS system. By the end of
July Jim anticipates selling 10K units. That ain't bad for a new product
and no commercial advertising!
"Ed Cregger" <ecre...@bellsouff.net> wrote in message
news:e0cii.16897$p7.1...@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
Ed Cregger
> Hi Ed,
> Check out XPS here; http://www.xtremepowersystems.net You're in for a
> surprise. Jim Drew is the CEO, and he is a pilot. Jim spends a great
> deal of time on his NGs answering questions and listening to suggestions,
> many of which he has adopted by changing firmware *and* hardware! Check
> out the *Forums* tab in the left frame and don't neglect to scroll all the
> way down on the main page for a complete description of the XPS system. By
> the end of July Jim anticipates selling 10K units. That ain't bad for a
> new product and no commercial advertising!
Thanks for the advice, Ed. I may end up doing as you have suggested. The
voltage drop problem attributed to the Spektrum systems has been bothering
me too, as I have read about it, not through personal experience.
Ed Cregger
brp21
To bump an older thread:
I replaced the lithium cell in my X347 last night and it's almost back
up and running. The problem is that it's showing the main battery
voltage as being 6.3V when it's actually 10.5V. This is way outside of
the service menu's ability to tweak - anyone got any ideas?
--
brp21
------------------------------------------------------------------------
brp21's Profile: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=15864
Branko
> To bump an older thread:
>
> I replaced the lithium cell in my X347 last night and it's almost back
> up and running. The problem is that it's showing the main battery
> voltage as being 6.3V when it's actually 10.5V. This is way outside of
> the service menu's ability to tweak - anyone got any ideas?
I have an XF421. On the main PCB there are a pair of pads that when
shorted will perform a reset. The set will beep then enter a state in
which the volt display can be calibrated. Once the set is powered off
it leaves this state.
If X347 behaves like XF421, then to take advantage of it:
Hook up a calibrated volt meter to the battery.
Perform a reset.
Use the up/down keys to adjust the display to match that on the volt meter.
Cycle power to the set.
brp21
Branko Wrote:
>
>
> I have an XF421. On the main PCB there are a pair of pads that when
> shorted will perform a reset. The set will beep then enter a state in
> which the volt display can be calibrated. Once the set is powered off
> it leaves this state.
>
> If X347 behaves like XF421, then to take advantage of it:
> Hook up a calibrated volt meter to the battery.
> Perform a reset.
> Use the up/down keys to adjust the display to match that on the volt
> meter.
> Cycle power to the set.
THanks for the reply. I had tried that, but it seems like the maximum
you can adjust the voltage by in the service menu is about +-1V, while
the calibation is out by about 4V.
InvertedSnap
I too am an owner of an aging JR X388S radio that recently made the
'beep of death' with the unwanted text "BACKUP ERROR"! On closer
investigation (i.e. springs and buttons going everywhere) I discovered
that it was far easier to just purchase a replacement button cell
lithium battery with out the fancy spot welded tabs. I just soldered two
short leads to the +ve and -ve sides of the button cell and then
soldered the free ends to the respective +ve and -ve points on the
circuit board. However, I did discover that when I tried to turn the
transmitter back on to see if I had removed the annoying 'beep', the
transmitter did nothing...power on but no one home...no noises or any
display?? Remembering an older post about the need to jumper across
terminals...I did the very technical thing and turned the transmitter
off and then licked the tip of my pointer finger and ran it over the
circuit board behind the LCD display...turned the transmitter back on
and the old girl had come back to life!! (this method was re-tested 15
minutes later as I needed to solder longer wires to the button cell so I
could glue it to the inside of the back cover once I put some heat
shrink around the new button cell battery)
I realise this is an older thread and my reply has come many years
later, but maybe it may still help someone who is looking to revive an
old JR radio like I was.
--
InvertedSnap
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