Cox .049 rpm with a 6x3?
JPutnam435
capable of 17,000 rpm with this prop? I got this engine out of a control line
plastic plane that cox sells currently...
Thanks,
Jason
JPutn...@aol.com
Paul McIntosh
one of the mags a couple of years back (anyone remember which one?) that explained
the differences and relative strengths and weaknesses of each). Yes, it should be
able to turn that high. Some do considerably better than that!
JPutnam435 wrote:
--
Paul McIntosh
Desert Sky Model Aviation
"Fast delivery, FASTER engines"
http://www.icatmall.com/desertsky
http://www.dancris.com/~warbird
Aaron Pye
newer Cox suckers have broken crankshafts after a few runs using the same prop fuel
combo. If you use a Norvel head, you can get higher RPM's although starting
becomes more of a pain.
If you want serious RPM's, there are other engines that are better made. The new
Cox engines have reed valves that won't go the distance and other foul-ups on 3
engines I bought last year and cannot get parts for. My 24 yr old Black Widow is
serving me well unlike the replacement engines I bought.
Randy Roeges
>
> How fast can a basic Cox .049 control line plane engine turn a 6x3 prop? Is it
> capable of 17,000 rpm with this prop? I got this engine out of a control line
> plastic plane that cox sells currently...
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
> JPutn...@aol.com
Dear Jason,
This is what Cox calls their product engine and they arn't very powerful.
I think you might be looking at 13.500 on Cox regular fuel. Their are 4
types of Cox 6x3 props the gray is the best for power. I have found that
a Grish tornado in 5.5x3.5 might be your best choice
Best wishes
Randy
amarqu...@my-dejanews.com
Aaron Pye <gcfl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> My ancient Black Widow will do about 17,500 using Wildcat %25 fuel. All of my
> newer Cox suckers have broken crankshafts after a few runs using the same prop
fuel
> combo. If you use a Norvel head, you can get higher RPM's although starting
> becomes more of a pain.
> If you want serious RPM's, there are other engines that are better made.
The new
> Cox engines have reed valves that won't go the distance and other foul-ups on
3
> engines I bought last year and cannot get parts for. My 24 yr old Black Widow
is
> serving me well unlike the replacement engines I bought.
>
>
> > How fast can a basic Cox .049 control line plane engine turn a 6x3 prop? Is
it
> > capable of 17,000 rpm with this prop? I got this engine out of a control
line
> > plastic plane that cox sells currently...
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jason
> > JPutn...@aol.com
>
I've to agree with you; I still have a Cox "product engine" (290 model?) that
came with a beautiful (and very heavy) C/L Spitfire that my father bought me
around 1965. That engine still goes strong with Byron's 1/2A fuel (25%) with
a little castor added. Gives 14,300 rpm AT our altitude of 7360 Ft.above sea
level, and usually 10,500 ft Density-Altitude.
The replacement engines (or spare parts for that matter), specially those
bought in the last five years or so only perform (or last) a few days,
quickly losing compression.
I've been using Robart's Power-Rev Treatment after every Flight; seems to
help to keep the piston-cylinder fit; but be careful of only putting a little
drop to the closed ports of the cylinder, because too much will make the glow
plug go bad. You still have to reset the piston's rod socket every seven or
eight flights. So much for Coxes, Now I'm becoming a Norvel's fanatic! Best
Wishes. Alfredo Marquez,Mexico City <amar...@akal.si.imp.mx>
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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Paul McIntosh
competition engines. I am also told that there will be a Raptor .049/.051 available
soon with a carb for 1/2A R/C racing! They are relatively inexpensive considering
their performance.
amarqu...@my-dejanews.com wrote:
--
Paul McIntosh
Desert Sky Model Aviation
http://www.icatmall.com/desertsky
http://www.dancris.com/~warbird
Aaron Pye
two and stops.....My .15 sorta runs great on a stand but will not operate on a
plane. I had to tear that one down several times and managed to almost get it
turning 18,000 from 10,500 before toying with it. I've had it with small
engines.....they really bite. I went through 3 /12A engines beginning of the year
only to end up using my old engine...Bought another 5 .15 engines before finding one
that would run properly.....
Paul McIntosh
CSG .049N will turn an APC 5X3 at about 30,000rpm without a tuned pipe. The CSG .049S
will run over 34,000rpm with a tuned pipe. These are REAL engines with two ball
bearings and ABC construction. Front intake, rear exhaust.
Aaron Pye wrote:
--
Paul McIntosh
Desert Sky Model Aviation
Daniel Sievert
If you still have those "UGH"ly Norvels (and are willing to try again),
Try this
Drill the back plate pressure tap to .025-.030. THEY MUST BE RUN ON
PRESSUIRE!
Pump the nitro level up to 25% - add some castor. Norvel's fuel works
well.
Use a Tornado 5X3 prop. Balance and true the prop.
Use a Machine Lite glow head. Add a .005 shim.
Optional - Change to K/K needlevalve.
With this set up they will easily turn 24,500 rpms and run strong! I
know of one well run that commonly turns 26,500 rpms. It sings and is
very fast in a race (Ace Simple Series). Some of my racing buddies have
put a lot of time into this formula and they always do well in our
races.
Norvel readily admits that their plugs wont last long at high
compression. They require a power panel, cranked up all the way, to glow
the stock plug. Their "Freedom" plug was designed to be driven by a
NyStarter type driver.
If you still have those "UGH"ly Norvels (and aren't willing to try
again), I might be interested in buying them from you if the price in
right.
Aaron Pye
.15 sized and too much of a handful for me at this time. Last I checked I was turning
22,000 with an 8x4 on 5% nitro. Any smaller of a prop and I risk breaking the hub due to
its 3/8" prop shaft.
I am trying to get away from 1/2A birds, they flit about too much. Same with 1/12
scale combats.
Thanks for the info!
Paul McIntosh
Take a look at my web site. I have the whole line of CS competition engines available. They
have a .15 and .21 that will both turn over 30,000 with a pipe. These are CL Speed engines
and can be fitted with carbs.
http://www.dancris.com/~warbird
Aaron Pye wrote:
--
Howard and Kelly Lute
friend,
Lute
--
Electronics Instructor, Terrible Mechanic, Worse Plumber!
******************************************
e-mail to: optc...@ix.netcom.com
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SHIPPING / BILLING ADDRESS:
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402 Marina Blvd.
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Dave Blackburn
Daniel Sievert wrote in message <3653A054...@home.com>...
>Aaron,
>If you still have those "UGH"ly Norvels (and are willing to try again),
>Try this
> Drill the back plate pressure tap to .025-.030. THEY MUST BE RUN ON
>PRESSUIRE!
Not sure what you mean here... are you saying that you need a pressure tap
out the back of the crank with the nipple ID of .025-.030? And isn't the
muffler pressure adequate?
> Pump the nitro level up to 25% - add some castor. Norvel's fuel works
>well.
Would Byrons 25%Nitro / 20% castor/synth work well?
> Use a Tornado 5X3 prop. Balance and true the prop.
Agreed, we use the APC 5.5x3 or 6x2 props.... huge difference over the 6x3
wood props that most end up using with their Norvels.
> Use a Machine Lite glow head. Add a .005 shim.
Where can I find this? What's makes it better than the freedom XL head?
> Optional - Change to K/K needlevalve.
Again... where can I find this? That Norvel needle taper is awfully sharp..
Mark Panos
> > Drill the back plate pressure tap to .025-.030. THEY MUST BE RUN ON
> >PRESSUIRE!
>
> Not sure what you mean here... are you saying that you need a pressure tap
> out the back of the crank with the nipple ID of .025-.030? And isn't the
> muffler pressure adequate?
I think this is too big of a hole. I would try to shoot for .007 to
.010 diameter. On a Cox 051 TD I experimented with MANY hole diameters
and found that anything larger than .010 would seemed to affect the
compression in the crankcase. I will admit that the pressure takes a
few seconds to build, but the power difference is worth it. I assume
this would work on the Norvel. I am unsure about muffler pressure
since a TD 051 (non RC) does not use one. (BTW it is about impossible
to buy a drill smaller than .013 as far as I know. To get .008 use the
wire from a glow plug (be sure to measure) and solder up your nipple
with the wire inserted. The trick is to pull it out as the solder is
solidifying)<grin>
>
> > Pump the nitro level up to 25% - add some castor. Norvel's fuel works
> >well.
>
> Would Byrons 25%Nitro / 20% castor/synth work well?
I like to special order my fuel from FHS (RedMax). I use 20% nitro, 5%
propylene oxide, 18% synthetic oil, 2% castor, add an anti-foaming
agent, and the balance methanol. This works good in the Cox, CS and
Shurikin engines.
>
> > Use a Tornado 5X3 prop. Balance and true the prop.
Make sure it is the BLACK Grish Tornado which is much stiffer than the
white props (they flatten-out as RPM increases)
Mark Panos