sheeting foam core wings
Brian Cormack
sheeting to the foam. Thinking of using 3M Type 77 Spray-Mount. Don't
want the skins to pop up at a later time. Any advice welcome, thanks in
advance!
Brian Cormack
Suwanee Valley R/C Flying Club
bst...@direct.ca
I've had good luck with latex contact cement. It's available at any
hardware store, or from the hobby shop as Sig Core Bond. The pattern
guys in my club use epoxy. The glue is spread on both surfaces with
a notched plaing card. Very little epoxy is used this way.
Good Luck,
Blair.
BROCKKM
>sheeting to the foam. Thinking of using 3M Type 77 Spray-Mount. Don't
>want the skins to pop up at a later time. Any advice welcome, thanks in
>advance!
>
>Brian Cormack
>Suwanee Valley R/C Flying Club
>
>
DO NOT USE 3M77 THE SKINS WILL POP UP FOR SURE
BROCKKM
>sheeting to the foam. Thinking of using 3M Type 77 Spray-Mount. Don't
>want the skins to pop up at a later time. Any advice welcome, thanks in
>advance!
>
>Brian Cormack
>Suwanee Valley R/C Flying Club
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
WHAT YOU WANT TO USE IS SOMETHING LIKE DAVE JOHNSONS SORGUM OR EPOXY. VACCUUM
BAGGING WILL SAVE THE WEIGHT AND HELP THE SKINS STICK BETTER
EDORCJ1
width of the skins let dry then heat up a small iron then iron them on use
acool damp cioth to freeze it behind the iron the dry glue melts together
sticks to the cores in a event of a crash you can always heat the skins and
remove them works for me ps i use a travel iron
aur...@iamerica.net
>
> Just got a Wing Mfg. FW-190. Need advice on what works best to hold the
> sheeting to the foam. Thinking of using 3M Type 77 Spray-Mount. Don't
> want the skins to pop up at a later time. Any advice welcome, thanks in
> advance!
>
> Brian Cormack
> Suwanee Valley R/C Flying Club
The best method and one that will never pull loose is epoxy. Second best
IMO is Dave Brown's Southern R/C Sorghum contact cement. I personally
would not use 3M #77 spray contact cement. In the heat down here in
Southeast Texas it has debonded on some wings. Epoxy or Sorghum has
never failed me or any wings that I have sheeted for friends. I did have
one debonding failure with 3M #77, why the writers in mags continue to
recommend it's use is beyond me, maybe their planes don't last more than
one season.
Vince
Jim
from the WATER based contact cements sold in hardware stores. I never got
very good results with the spray contacts. Once the water based contact
dries, (coating both the foam core and the wing skins) it hangs on like
gangbusters. Oh, cheap too!
Jim
Brian Cormack <cor...@atlantic.net> wrote in message
news:376C5C08...@atlantic.net...
Cregger
fumes, easy clean up and it does not attack the foam over time (or
immediately). I use very little cement, meaning a very thin layer on
extremely smoothed and cleaned cores. No failure problems such as
delamination or disintegrating foam. Not extraordinarily heavy and a lot
nicer to work with than epoxy.
Ed Cregger
ecre...@mindspring.com
Jim <sa...@idca.com> wrote in message
news:5B6b3.2339$T25....@dfiatx1-snr1.gtei.net...
A. G . Peterson
made with baggies) hold down the skins.
BROCKKM wrote:
> >Just got a Wing Mfg. FW-190. Need advice on what works best to hold the
> >sheeting to the foam. Thinking of using 3M Type 77 Spray-Mount. Don't
> >want the skins to pop up at a later time. Any advice welcome, thanks in
> >advance!
> >
> >Brian Cormack
> >Suwanee Valley R/C Flying Club
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Pete Kerezman
On Sun, 20 Jun 1999 13:10:09 GMT, aur...@iamerica.net wrote:
>
>The best method and one that will never pull loose is epoxy. Second best
>IMO is Dave Brown's Southern R/C Sorghum contact cement. I personally
>would not use 3M #77 spray contact cement. In the heat down here in
>Southeast Texas it has debonded on some wings. Epoxy or Sorghum has
>never failed me or any wings that I have sheeted for friends. I did have
>one debonding failure with 3M #77, why the writers in mags continue to
>recommend it's use is beyond me, maybe their planes don't last more than
>one season.
>
Hey Vince , the 3M77 bonded wing on my old gambler 40 has outlasted
the freakin' fuselage (8 years now, i think), and i live down below
corpus christi. I let it tack up good, and because i was only
building on weekends i left my encyclopedias on the cores for a week.
The overspray is very tacky and needs to be controlled, though. Seems
like it took about a week or two for it to wear off of the patio.
If i ever make another foam wing i'm gonna use the southern sorghum,
but after a long-standing relationship i get along well enough with
balsa that i probably won't need to. Had to try a foam one, though.
Texas Pete
Pete Kerezman (pete...@aol.com)
Kingsville, Texas AMA 59376
Frank G.
the
> > >sheeting to the foam. Thinking of using 3M Type 77 Spray-Mount. Don't
> > >want the skins to pop up at a later time. Any advice welcome, thanks
in
> > >advance!
> > >
> > >Brian Cormack
> > >Suwanee Valley R/C Flying Club
The best method of sheeting foam core wings is use the 30-minute or longer
type epoxy or you may have a wing that looks like modern art if you can't
get the wing sheeted in time! Lay it on with a plastic scraper on the
sheeting, and squeegee the epoxy in a thin coating thoroughly covering the
entire surface. (I like to use 1/6" balsa sheeting and I also put very small
V notches 1/4" apart on the plastic scraper.) Do not put any epoxy on the
foam itself, as there will be enough epoxy on the sheeting to do the job.
Set a count down timer to 15 minutes when you begin mixing the epoxy so you
know how much time you have to work.
The core is placed on a flat table, table-side cradle for sheeting. One
edge of the sheeting is placed flush with the trailing edge of the core
while the sheet is held away from the core. When the trailing edge has been
aligned properly, gently lay the sheeting on the wing. When the leading edge
is reached, there should be a small amount of excess sheeting overhanging
which will be trimmed later.
(Note: The palm of the hand should not be used to press the sheeting down on
the core. Doing this will cause the sheeted surface to become wavy.)
Place clear plastic wrap over the sheeting and then place the top-side
cradle over the sheeted core. Weight down the assembly (lots and lots of
books, bricks what ever) making sure the weight is evenly distributed. Let
set for 24 hours. (If you have access to vacuum bagging much better but
not necessary unless fiberglassing the wing).
I do one half of each wing at a time. The leading and trailing edge as well
as the wing tips goes on last. It's much easier to shape these surfaces
when the wing is sheeted. Less chance of deforming the foam core this way.
Frank G.