Does anyone have any advise on building this kit? I plan on using an
OS61FX 2-stroke and build the flap option.
I also plan on installing two aileron servos in the outboard wings versus
the single servo and bellcrank arrangement called for in the plans.
--
Jerry Samsen
SpectraNet International
jsa...@firstworld.com
jsa...@ix.netcom.com
In article <5rm3r0$r7g$1...@news.connectnet.com>, jsa...@firstworld.com
says...
--
Visit Fred's Semi-Live Cam and R/C Chat for up to the Minute R/C Updates!
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~fherrman
"If it doesn't kill you, it will only make you stronger!"
You got yourself a nice deal there! The OS should work fine in this
plane, however, you won't need the flaps.
I had one about four years ago and enjoyed it very much. You might
consider replacing the ABS with Fiberglass parts to save yourself some
aggravation. I have noticed on mine and on others that I have seen fly
that the plane wags its tale sometimes while flying. If you see this,
don't be too concerened.
Have fun.
Dave
Bob
Hopefully I'll have my web page done then also and post some pictures.
Jerry Samsen wrote in article <5rm3r0$r7g$1...@news.connectnet.com>...
Mine had the twin servos. I changed from the wing LG to a fuse mount right
in front of the wing attachment. Made life much easier for the not so
great landings. Met an untimely death at the upside down bottom of a
Cubann 9 that was supposed to be a Cuban 8. Good Luck. Let us know how it
comes out. Andy
Yikes - what a great buy!
>Does anyone have any advise on building this kit? I plan on using an
>OS61FX 2-stroke and build the flap option.
So far so good (though I preferred an OSFS91S in mine). You'll undoubtably get
some flak here for building with flaps. Set mode = ignore ;^) Flaps add yet
another thing to play with - as well as helping to tighten up those loops...
>I also plan on installing two aileron servos in the outboard wings versus
>the single servo and bellcrank arrangement called for in the plans.
Absolutely correct. I did the same and the control surfaces came out
slop-free. You'll have to mount the servos on their sides - the wing is too
thin to stand them up. Lots of ways to do this but the easiest is to buy
the nylon "T" mounts and screw them into hardwood rails installed in the wing.
Or you can frame the servo bays with light balsa and then fit thin
plywood hatch covers to match - and attach the servos to the inside of the
hatch covers.
The CGM Super Chipmunk is a fine model and a good kit, but there are
a few nits imho. So, additional suggestions:
- beef up the landing gear mounts. Surround the LG blocks with angle stock and
epoxy everything so you have a very solid base for the gear. Even better:
replace the plywood LG blocks with hardwood parts, and surround those with
angle stock.
- unless your a big fan of painting plastic bits, throw out the plastic wing
tips and belly pan and carve/fabricate those parts out of balsa. You can't put
film over that plastic stuff. Carving those teardrop wing tips out of balsa
block is a lot easier than you might think. Same for the belly fairing.
- spring for a fiberglass cowl (R/C City sells nice ones). The 'glas cowl is
lighter than the ABS cowl, yet it'll last longer (won't crack as quickly). R/C
City also sells 'glas wheel pants, fwiw.
- take your time putting the fuse together - triple check the fit of the (4)
long pieces of lite ply that make up the basic box fuse. I had to fiddle with
the slots 'n' tabs to assure that I ended up with a straight fuse. And don't
rely on matching those parts to the plans - the plans are *not* to scale - so
everything is shifted a bit. Dry fit and adjust the parts until you're happy
with the "straightness".
- when you get around to needing stuff like wing and stab incidence, engine
thrust angle, etc, don't bother searching through the plans or the manual -
that information isn't to be found. Larry King at CGM was kind enough to
provide that information, as follows:
- wing incidence: +1/4° (make it zero and you should be fine)
- stab incidence: 0 degrees
- engine thrust angle: 1.5° right thrust, .5° down thrust
- as-designed wing dihedral: 2 11/16" as referenced at rib #11
- Note: the dihedral on this wing appears excessive to me. I wasn't looking
for a pattern ship but didn't want trainer-level stability either. I reduced
the dihedral by half - so it's now similar to the dihedral used on my US60.
When you go to join the wing halves using the dihedral "jigs", you'll see what
I mean here. It was nbd to change this, fwiw..
- watch out for asymmetry in the 2 lite ply firewall parts. Depending on when
yours was kitted, these pieces may have been cut with a blown-out die (like
mine). Not being comfortable mounting my 91FS to lite ply anyway, I cut my
firewall from 1/4" AC grade ply with an additional piece of 1/8" AC ply
sandwiched behind it to provide depth for the blind nuts.
- Examine the fuse area behind the former just behind the rear wing bolt
blocks. If you agree that this looks a bit weak, consider beefing it up a bit.
Also add some 1/4" triangle stock to the inside butt joint between the fuse
sides and the fuse bottom when you glue up the fuse. You'll be able to round
the outside of that joint for appearance sake without sacrificing strength.
- If you're thinking of using the same trim scheme that CGM used, and you're
going to do it with film, consider sheeting the entire top of the wing.
It'll make those stripes real easy to install over the white base film -
especially if you use CGM Ultracote...
If you have any other questions as you proceed to build, drop me a line. If
you need inspiration, I have a bunch of pictures already scanned that I can
email you...
Cheers!
/dave
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
<> Dave Tatosian tato...@eng.pko.xxx.com <>
<> Digital Equipment Corp. Alpha Server Engineering <>
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<><><><><><><><><><><><><><> AMA 548313 <><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
Disclaimer: Opinion and content is mine alone, and unlikely to be
shared by my employer, etc...
VideoFlyer@ aol.com
If that is what you are doing, I would suggest that you buy a exhaust
manifold extender, that should give you the clearance that would be
required to exit the pipes under the fuselage.
On Thu, 31 Jul 1997 22:48:10 -0700, joe zito <joe...@inetworld.com>
wrote:
SFA 60920
Due to E-Mail spamming bots my reply address is incorrect.
Remove the "f" from my isp