Tutorial program appllying Ultracote
wan...@toast.net
I would like it very much if someone would recommend a good program
(CD) on how to apply Monocote or Ultracote, in the way a professonal
would use to decorate their large scale model planes. Especially the
curved trims.
My friend is finishing his quarter scale Ultimate, and he has no
knowledge of how to apply trim in a decorative way without bubbles. He
needed to see the job in action, while printed words or photos won't
help.
I have looked elsewhere but found nothing.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Wan
mkir...@rochester.rr.com
Make friends with an old-timer that knows how to do it, and get him to
SHOW you how it's done live and in person.
A.T.
sub section =
"Covering Materials & Instructions (see also Colours & Visibility above)"
Chemical Compatibility of Common Model Finishing Materials
Cover Foam Wings With Brown Paper - Ezone
Covering - Lee Van Tassle
Cover small models with tissue - M.A.N. tips.
Covering & Painting Techniques***
Coverite Home Page
Fibreglass Cloth Covering by Jim Ryan
Klass Kote (epoxy paint)
Lite Films,Covering & colouring & weights - Roy Bourke
Light plastic film - types & techniques for micro flyers - M.A.N article
Monokote - How to.
MonoKote & LustreKote Surface Preparation & Painting
Oracover = Ultracote = Profilm . Hobby Lobby's tips
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/oracover.htm
Oracover - Holland
http://www.xs4all.nl/~hobbyin/paginas/oracoverhandleiding.htm
Ozcover
Painting Canopies (Heli) - email Alan for file.
Painting RC models with Latex Paint
Pennyplane - lightweight building & covering for indoor duration
Poly-Fibre Polyester Fabrics
Polyurethane (Water based) - adhere and finish fibreglass and Koverall cloth
etc.
RhinoCover Base White
Scale Rib Stitch
Silk (Thai silks)
Silkspan Covering - How to and Why
Solite - How to apply this ultra lite film
Solite - Advanced Covering Techniques
SPAD (Simple Plastic Model Design) - use of plastics
Tinting Clear Canopies - David Tatosian. (site down - email Alan direct for
copy.)
Two Color Covering - RCFU
Ultracote® ( = ProFilm =OraCover) Tips & Tricks = Horizon Hobby :
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Explore/Article.aspx?ArticleID=1115
USI Laminate: Use 3mm thick film
at Alan's Hobby, Model & RC Web Links
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/
.................................................................
<wan...@toast.net> wrote in message
news:1127236935.6...@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Bob Cowell
Actually there is a video for monokote, but it's really not much use.
Most every club has at least one person who does beautiful covering work.
Like Matthew said, that is the resource you need to find
wan...@toast.net
sent. The Low -Temp Polycover may be what my friend should try.
According to the characteristics described for this covering material,
it may just do the trick.
Wan
Double Ace
Here's one:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKSB4&P=7
wan...@toast.net
I think you just hit the nail on the head. If the DVD lives up to the
description by Tower Hobbies, this is probably what my friend needs. It
will have sound and motion, demonstrating how to do difficult compound
curves on wing tips and fillets, as well as intricate designs for
decor.
I made a print out of the ad you sent for my friend.
Thanks,
Wan
Bob Cowell
that's the same one as the VHS tape I have
Ain't worth the cost of postage much less $15 for the DVD
It only has REAL BASIC stuff, and no one here who has seen it was impressed
with it
wan...@toast.net
the DVD appeared to be for the beginner as well as the modeling expert.
I would like to hear more about the quality of instructions before I
take the print out to my friend. Certainly don't want to disappoint
him.
Thanks, Bob.
Wan
Storm's Hamburgers
Anna Marie Cross had a page somewhere. Showed covering wheel pants with
monocote, pretty good job.
Ask me how, I can show you what NOT to do. :)
mk
<wan...@toast.net> wrote in message
news:1127277489....@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Usenetboy
> Hi,
>
> I would like it very much if someone would recommend a good program
> (CD) on how to apply Monocote or Ultracote, in the way a professonal
> would use to decorate their large scale model planes. Especially the
> curved trims.
>
> My friend is finishing his quarter scale Ultimate, and he has no
> knowledge of how to apply trim in a decorative way without bubbles. He
> needed to see the job in action, while printed words or photos won't
> help.
As others have said, get to a local club meeting and ask around for
someone who does really good covering jobs - then find out what kind of
beer they like and get some! I know you said words won't help, and I'm
not sure video, audio or just live observation will help either. In my
experience, there is no substitute for patience and practice in getting a
good covering job. That being said, here are some techniques I use that
with a little practice should help quite a bit.
Patience, don't get in a hurry or work on it when you are tired or not
really in the mood.
Spend some time on surface preparation before covering. Once your
friend starts getting good at covering, one of the first things they are
likely to notice is nothing they can do with covering will hide a poor
sanding job.
Make all your cuts as clean and even/smooth as possible. That means
using a sharp, fresh blade, a straight edge whenever possible and cutting
on a smooth, hard surface. I use an 8" x 30" x 1/4" piece of glass to cut
on and usually buy #11 blades in packages of 100.
Experiment with your covering and iron to find out what temperatures to
use. Above a certain temperature, over a non-porous surface the
adhesive on most films will cause the film to bubble. You need to find
where that temperature is for the material and iron you are using. For my
current iron with Monokote over balsa, I set the temperature knob at the 2
O'clock position for good adhesion in a single pass. If I am putting down
Monokote over Monokote though that temperature is too high and will cause
bubbling, so there I set the knob at 12 O'clock.
When overlapping seams, try to minimize the overlap (I shoot for 1/8" -
1/4"), keep the overlap distance as consistent as you can on the seam, and
if possible, plan the layers so the upper layer of the seam is towards the
front of the aircraft. This makes the seam less vulnerable to lifting
with fuel/oil/air pressure.
When overlaying large areas, patience, windex, and a squeege will go a
LONG way. Mist the area being covered with windex, lay the top piece on
and gently squeege the windex out from under it working from the center
out towards the edges. THEN LEAVE IT ALONE overnight to give the last
traces of windex a chance to evaporate from under the top layer. The next
day, come back with your iron on a low setting and seal the edges. If the
upper piece has sharp corners, you might want to apply just the slightest
amount of thin CA to the points to help keep them stuck. I use a squeege
with a very soft rubber blade that's about 6" wide.
On really complex designs, the best covering guy I know will lay up the
whole design on a large piece of glass using the windex/squeege method and
then peel the whole sheebang up and apply it to the airplane. The nice
thing about doing it that way is if he makes a mistake on the 3rd or 4th
color/layer he can just lift that layer off any try again without having
to start over at layer 1. He is literally doing murals in Monokote though.
Balsa and covering are cheap. Make up a dozen or so practice pieces
with compound curves out of some scrap, get the aforementioned beer and
invite the club covering ace over for some hands on. But make sure your
friend is using their own iron so they get the temperatures down and they
are actually doing most of the covering practice.
Good luck
wan...@toast.net
will make a print of them so my friend could pick up on your hints.
He is not exactly a beginner, but is easily frustrated and beats up on
himself for not getting the covering on right.
There is a local expert that may be willing to alllow him to watch. As
for the beer, my friend doesn't dringk any : )
Wan
LeeH
used to pull the coating over the edges. What do you use to hold the
wing to keep it from slipping?
Tnx - LeeH
Running out of hands...
Scott Henrichs
table & put your wing on it & put a small sand bag on the wing.
dude
http://home.earthlink.net/~ershe
here is the cesna
(so far 3 channel)
http://www.parkflyers.com/html/cessna_182.html
dude
wan...@toast.net
Those photos and videos of your electric plane are great. Appears you
guys are having lots of fun. Looks as if you used lots of glue to fix
the one you crashed into the curb.
I'm going to check ou your other site with the Cesna to see what else
you have. Keep them coming.
Wan
Mr Akimoto
Higley, the world's foremost authority (next to me) on about every
aspect of the hobby. I have quickly leafed through it, and I believe it
would meet your friend's needs. However, your friend should be
realistic about the extent of the covering task he takes on. This is
truly one aspect of modeling that requires many hours of experience.
Ciao,
Mr Akimoto
Dave
Maybe not here in this news group....
Sorry....
Dave
wan...@toast.net
A book by Harry Higley, I will relay your information to my friend.
Thanks,
Wan
Bob Cowell
Double Ace
types of finishing.
Has a great section on Monokote Covering Techiques.
wan...@toast.net
Thanks to Bob and Double Ace. My friend definitely wants books on how
to cover with Monocote. But he is not a beginner, so I wonder if the
books you recommend are written with more advanced techniques? Does
"all types of finishing" include double convex curves such as fillets
or double concave curves such as wheel pants, rounded wing tips?
Wan
cracker39
What happened to the old method of paper and dope? I know that goes way
back, but in the 60s when I was into control line flying, we covered
with some type of stuff that looked like tissue paper, sprayed it with
water to shrink it tight, and painted it with airplane dope. It
resulted in a drum-tight, tough, shiny finish. I see no reason that
wouldn't work today.
--
cracker39
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Fubar of The HillPeople
"cracker39" <cracker3...@rcgroups.com> wrote in message
news:cracker3...@rcgroups.com...
BCRandy
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXR759&P=ML
It takes a many coats of dope to get a finish as smooth as
monokote, adding weight and cost, and taking lots of time.
Also, monokote repairs are less visible unless you put time
into doping a silkspan patch.
"cracker39" <cracker3...@rcgroups.com> wrote in message
news:cracker3...@rcgroups.com...
>
Ted Campanelli
so great) words of knowledge:
It works extremely well. I recently finished a 55" span Monocoupe 90A
with Silkspan and dope. Wanted to "re-live" the olden days - I do miss
the smell of dope though.
Only one problem with the silkspan/dope.....It is noticably heavier than
Ultracote.
Chuck
solvents in good old "dope".
The last airplane I built for control line use (1966) was covered with
silkspan and "beautyrate?" dope.
The task of recovering a fabric (real) aircraft with wing "socks" and dope
was the next task. You even have to spray fungicide/rotproofer on the
fabric.
"Ted Campanelli" <tc...@grumpyoldmen.com> wrote in message
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