Led's Wiring leds to turnout, to show direction of turnout.
jesse Baynes
I was wondering if the group could respond to schematics on how to wire
low voltage Led's to the turnout. How do I keep track of direction on
track and in ladder yard?
Thanx Jess
Andy Sperandeo
In article <jbaynes-1811...@irv-ca31-06.ix.netcom.com>,
jba...@ix.netcom.com (jesse Baynes) wrote:
Depends somewhat on the kind of switch machine or switch motor you use,
but with the Tortoise motors on my layout I use a bicolor 12V LED in
series with the center output of the SPDT control switch (I'm also using a
bi-polar power supply -- see the Tortoise instructions). The LED switches
from red to green when the polarity is reversed, and I use green to
indicate the turnout's normal position and red for reverse. I don't worry
about testing the polarity but simply check the LED's operation before
soldering the connections to its leads; if the red and green indications
are opposite from what I want, I switch the wires and then solder. No
resistor is needed in series with the LED, because the Tortoise motor
serves as the load to make current flow through the LED. This should also
work with Electroplumbing, Switchmaster, and any other adaptations of the
Hankscraft display motor.
So long,
Andy Sperandeo
MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
C. Rohn
Any similar way to do this with Atlas switch machines? CR
In article <asperandeo-19...@172.17.34.179>, asper...@mrmag.com
Harold Riley
<HTML>
<P>Atlas has a product called a "Snap Relay" that can be used for this
purpose. I used it to control a signal in conjunction with the turnout
position.
<P>Harold Riley</HTML>
CDavis2
>>Any similar way to do this with Atlas switch machines? CR
>>
>
>
I have a circuit that combines a capacitor discharge circuit with dual LED
indicators, for either a twin coil or single coil switch machine. Only uses a
few parts (toggle switch, two capacitors, two resistors, two leds). Doesn't
need any aux contacts. Anyone who wants a copy let me know.
jesse Baynes
I would like to thank the group for helping me. Even though I have not
responded I have kept up with everones efforts.
Now, let me explain more clearly as to what I need to happen. I have I
believe about 17 turnouts on a 4 by 8. Its loaded but it looks really
bitchen. It is my first but I have cookie cutted the top and so it is not
one dimensionable. If I use atlas switches and turnouts you are telling me
that the power is not always on. Short bursts I think of how it was
described. If I use operating lights on my layout to tell me how my
turnout is thrown, Atlas won't work because the power is not always on.
On the other hand Tortose switches cost 15.00 and I would need 17. I would
just like to look out at the switch and see red and green lights at the
switches. Any ideas! Jesse
Mike Tennent
jba...@ix.netcom.com (jesse Baynes) wrote:
>I would like to thank the group for helping me. Even though I have not
>responded I have kept up with everones efforts.
>
>Now, let me explain more clearly as to what I need to happen. I have I
>believe about 17 turnouts on a 4 by 8. Its loaded but it looks really
>bitchen. It is my first but I have cookie cutted the top and so it is not
>one dimensionable. If I use atlas switches and turnouts you are telling me
>that the power is not always on. Short bursts I think of how it was
>described. If I use operating lights on my layout to tell me how my
>turnout is thrown, Atlas won't work because the power is not always on.
>On the other hand Tortose switches cost 15.00 and I would need 17. I would
>just like to look out at the switch and see red and green lights at the
>switches. Any ideas! Jesse
In other words, you want a light next to the turnout that doesn't use
track power. That means it has to be turned on/off by the movement of
the turnout or Atlas switch machine.
And you don't want to use a SnapRelay.
The only way I see to do that is to rig something on the switch
machine that completes a circuit for the LEDs. In one position it
completes the circuit of the red LED, in the other, the green LED.
(This is essentially what the Tortoise machine does.) If you use the
Atlas above table switch, it's gonna get pretty ugly. The under the
table machine would hide the wires.
You'd have to rig some kind of "wiper" on the switch arm that
completes a circuit in each position. It would have to be extremely
light to minimize drag on the machine. Reliability might be a bit
iffy, but it could be done.
Mike "TriBop" Tennent
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Paul Godfrey
Mike Tennent wrote:
>
> jba...@ix.netcom.com (jesse Baynes) wrote:
>
> >I would like to thank the group for helping me. Even though I have not
> >responded I have kept up with everones efforts.
> >
> >Now, let me explain more clearly as to what I need to happen. I have I
> >believe about 17 turnouts on a 4 by 8. Its loaded but it looks really
> >bitchen. It is my first but I have cookie cutted the top and so it is not
> >one dimensionable. If I use atlas switches and turnouts you are telling me
> >that the power is not always on. Short bursts I think of how it was
> >described. If I use operating lights on my layout to tell me how my
> >turnout is thrown, Atlas won't work because the power is not always on.
> >On the other hand Tortose switches cost 15.00 and I would need 17. I would
> >just like to look out at the switch and see red and green lights at the
> >switches. Any ideas! Jesse
>
> In other words, you want a light next to the turnout that doesn't use
> track power.
Snip . . .
Jesse,
Try using a "micro switch." Cherry Mfg. makes one brand. These are
little switches used to detect the position of things, like a copy
machine cover open or if there is paper in a the printer tray. They do
not require much force to operate them and come in many sizes. You can
mount the switch next to the throw bar on the turnout to operate the
switch. Be sure to use double throw switches, so you can wire one LED
to the N.O. (normaly open, i.e., non depressed) contact, this will
indicate the turnout is in one position, and wire another LED to the
N.C. (normaly closed, i.e., lever depressed by the throw bar) contact to
indicate the turnout is in the other position. You can even use
bi-color LEDs wired to the micro switch where the LED is red in one
position and green in the other.
Yes, I have done this with Atlas Mark III and their under the table
switch machines. I ran the micro switch wires back to LEDs on the
control board where the turnout controls were mounted; that way I could
look at the board and tell the actual position of any turnout. Also, I
put some T-1 LEDs in signal towers along the rail and wired them to the
micro switchs for track signaling.
Micro switchs are available from many electronic parts stores. I get
mine from All Electronics at www.allcorp.com
Good luck,
Paul
Paul Godfrey
Bruce H. Stull
Hi, Paul, Mike and Jesse:
Why go to all this trouble?
You may select slow motion turnout machines from Circutron, Switchmaster,
Scale Shops or Roto-Motor for as little as $6.25 (kit form) -
Bruce
Paul Godfrey <godf...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<65lgj0$1...@bgtnsc02.worldnet.att.net>...
nshpmsi
Bruce H. Stull wrote:
>
> Hi, Paul, Mike and Jesse:
>
> Why go to all this trouble?
>
> You may select slow motion turnout machines from Circutron, Switchmaster,
> Scale Shops or Roto-Motor for as little as $6.25 (kit form) -
>
> Bruce
Do the above mentioned manufacturers of slow motion turnout machine kits
have web sites and if so, what are the URL's fro them?
Thanks, Scott Fuller
--
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