Ceramcoat paint removal
Marada C. Shradrakaii
I tried to scrape some decals off a model with a toothbrush and rinse, and the
paint itself becan to peel back, in huge, easy to remove, rubbery sheets,
revealing the original scheme (Polly S and Testors paints). Ironically, the
only place I had any trouble with removal was the spots under the decals!
I have since repeated three or so times... the other paints are beginning to
show some damage from the scraping, but the Ceramcoat still pulls off much more
easily, and almost completely.
Is this normal?
If so, I can see a lot of potential in 'temporary paint'-- hiding inappropriate
paint to make a scene.
--
Marada Coeurfuege Shra'drakaii
If we developed a replicator, it would be banned for its threat to profits of
existing business.
Mail hint: Not in Russia
Mark Mathu
Marada C. Shradrakaii
Airbrush.
However, I think I'm doing something wrong-- I get a LOT of clogs (I have now a
piece of bared wire at arm's length to ram down the paint tube when needed),
and when the paint comes out, it's so large a quantity that it sometimes
literally drips off the model.
external-mix brush, 30psi pressure, thinned 1 part paint to 1/2-1 parts water,
paint shaken, not stirred.
Mark Z.
> >Did you brush, or spray, the Ceramcoat?
>
> Airbrush.
>
> However, I think I'm doing something wrong-- I get a LOT of clogs (I have now a
> piece of bared wire at arm's length to ram down the paint tube when needed),
> and when the paint comes out, it's so large a quantity that it sometimes
> literally drips off the model.
>
> external-mix brush, 30psi pressure, thinned 1 part paint to 1/2-1 parts water,
> paint shaken, not stirred.
What kind of airbrush do you have?
Do you use an in-bottle paint filter? A paint filter is a must if you
want to do quality airbrush painting.
I have never used Ceramcoat but as regards thinning, any paint that is
to be airbrushed should be thinned to a "milky" consistency, i.e., not
too thin, not too thick.
Instead of water as a thinner, try an "airbrush medium" available at
arts & crafts stores.
> and when the paint comes out, it's so large a quantity that it sometimes
> literally drips off the model.
Adjust the paint flow on your airbrush. It sounds as if you're running
full-open. Adjust the paint flow to be less and possibly adjust the
psi down to 25. Experiment for the appropriate combination. Two to
three thin coats of paint are better than one thick coat of paint.
Mark
Dan L. Merkel
>
> >Did you brush, or spray, the Ceramcoat?
>
> Airbrush.
>
> However, I think I'm doing something wrong-- I get a LOT of clogs (I have now a
> piece of bared wire at arm's length to ram down the paint tube when needed),
> and when the paint comes out, it's so large a quantity that it sometimes
> literally drips off the model.
>
> external-mix brush, 30psi pressure, thinned 1 part paint to 1/2-1 parts water,
> paint shaken, not stirred.
I'm not sure what to tell you except this... I use some kind of special
airbrush thinning medium. I "think" it is a Grumbacker product, but am
not sure. A friend of mine who deals in paints and art supplies says
that water isn't a good thinner for latex paints because it affects the
paint's adhesion. Perhaps that is what you are finding out right now.
I'd especially think that 40% paint and 60% water is way too much water.
I usually thin with this airbrush medium at about three parts paint and
two parts water, then mix thoroughly.
You might also want to increase your air pressure a bit... I think I use
about 35-40 pounds, but don't know for sure. I just fiddle with things
until they seem right then have at it. Yes, from time to time, the
pirbrush clogs, but maybe only 2-3 times in a 30-45 minute session.
Usually closing the paint valve and reopening it solves this clog. I've
never had to resort to the wire thing like you mentioned.
Some people go as far as taking a small piece of pantyhose material and
stretching it over the paint supply tube that goes into the paint bottle
on your airbrush to filter out any small particles of paint which may
have dried around the edges then fallen back into the paint bottle.
I sometimes will use a soaked Q-Tip to clean the nozzle where the paint
comes out of the airbrush. This is because I notice that the paint
builds up on the bottom of the nozzle and starts to cover the hole.
This causes the paint to spray upwards some...
Also, I'm not sure what you did to prep the models, but any paint must
go onto a very clean surface for maximum adhesion. I usually scrub mine
in warm soapy water with a soft scrub brush, rinse thoroughly then allow
to air dry. When handling, I try to handle them only on surfaces where
the paint wont be applied... you know, inside of boxcars, etc. If I'm
going to paint all of a model, then I usually handle it with a soft lint
free cloth.
All in all, I've had pretty good success with the CeramCoats; perhaps
these guidelines will help you out some as well.
dlm
--
Dan L. Merkel
bright.net-BRT
===== > > Your Local Link to the Internet in
Findlay and in Hancock County < < =====
Alexandre D.
Alexandre D.
> paint shaken, not stirred.
>
Also called the 007 technique :o)
Roger Keim
Who makes them, how are they installed and how do they work?
Have Paasche airbrush and use bottles with screw on lids that can be
attached to airbrush.
Roger Keim
Bangor, Maine
...
Mark Z.
> One posted an in the bottle paint filter.
>
> Who makes them, how are they installed and how do they work?
>
>
> Bangor, Maine
In-bottle paint filters.....
These things are nothing more than cylindrical, fine mesh screen tubes
that fit over your siphon tube. The cap on these filters, that are
removable, have a small hole for the siphon tube to slide in. The
hole may need to be reamed out with the appropriate size drill bit.
It will depend on the diameter of your siphon tubes. The filter works
both for ½ and one ounce paint bottles. Ideally, you want the filter
close to the underside of the siphon cap. Because of this,you may
need to trim/shorten the length of the siphon tubes on your siphon
caps a wee bit. Any good hobby shop will have them in stock. I think
they cost around $5-$7. Also in Walthers catalog.
A picture of the Badger filters that I use and that Badger calls
"In-Jar Fluid Filters" may be found towards the bottom of the
following page:
http://www.badger-airbrush.com/access2.htm
In lieu of the commercial filters, some modelers use a small bit of
panty hose (hopefully not yours) secured over the end of the siphon
tube.
Mark
Fred Dabney
>
> Who makes them, how are they installed and how do they work?
I bought mine out of the Walthers catalog years
ago.
They are small cylinders of fine stainless steel mesh
with a plastic cap one pierces to slide over the siphon
tube.
They have drawbacks, one being that they limit how
small a bottle one can use,and they hold an astonishing
amount of paint in the mesh so they are wasteful of
paint if you need to swap colors a lot during a job.
I don't remember the brand at this time. It was many
years ago I bought mine. But some folk report that
simply wrapping old pieces of nylon stocking around
the siphon and securing it with a bit of wire does just
fine.
Fred D.
Dan L. Merkel
>
> Marada C. Shradrakaii wrote:
> >
> > >Did you brush, or spray, the Ceramcoat?
> >
> > Airbrush.
> >
> > However, I think I'm doing something wrong-- I get a LOT of clogs (I have now a
> > piece of bared wire at arm's length to ram down the paint tube when needed),
> > and when the paint comes out, it's so large a quantity that it sometimes
> > literally drips off the model.
> >
> > external-mix brush, 30psi pressure, thinned 1 part paint to 1/2-1 parts water,
> > paint shaken, not stirred.
>
> I'm not sure what to tell you except this... I use some kind of special
> airbrush thinning medium. I "think" it is a Grumbacker product, but am
> not sure.
Well, I finally checked last night and it is made by Liquitex. It is
kind of expensive, but weems to do a very good job for me as I've used
it ever since I've been suing the CeramCoat paints, and have had very
little trouble with it.
You might want to give it a try to see if it helps your particular
problem.
Mark Z.
> Dan L. Merkel wrote:
> >
>
> Well, I finally checked last night and it (Airbrush Medium)is made by > Liquitex. It is
> kind of expensive, but weems to do a very good job for me as I've used
> it ever since I've been suing the CeramCoat paints, and have had very
> little trouble with it.
>
> You might want to give it a try to see if it helps your particular
> problem.
>
> dlm
Here is the complete scoop on the Liquitex Airbrush Medium:
http://www.liquitex.com/products/airbrush_medium.html
Mark
Marada C. Shradrakaii
>> kind of expensive, but weems to do a very good job for me as I've used
>> it ever since I've been suing the CeramCoat paints, and have had very
>> little trouble with it.
If I wanted something expensive, I would have bought 'normal' model paints in
the first place and not hassled myself with the Ceramcoat!
Seriously... I've been using aerosol cans of house paint after the 15th cycle
of stripping one lousy baggage car.... it's pretty cheap, especially for
certain colours (gloss black is often extremely inexpensive-- $1 per can), and
frankly, I've had better reliability and way less "creeping under the masking"
than with the Ceramcoat. Plus, I don't need to worry about stuffing the
airbrush with metallic-paint particles.