Plastruct Plastic Weld vs. Tenax
Allen Cain
I have a couple of old bottles of Plastruct Plastic Weld. The active
ingredient is trichloromethane.
Is there any difference between Plastic Weld and Tenax?
I usually use Tenax on models such as Branchline, Proto2000, Red Caboose and
Intermountain. Will the Plastic Weld behave the same on these models as
Tenax?
I am too chicken to try it without some advance advice from someone
knowledgeable.
Also, are their any additional or different health risks associated with
Plastic Weld other than those associated with the use or Tenax?
Thanks in advance!
Allen Cain
Murfreesboro, TN
JCunington
>knowledgeable.
Well, I don't know about car kits, but on sheet styrene, I have found that the
Plastruct cement works much better than Tenax; it seems to dissolve the plastic
better. Obviously for very small-dimensional stuff, I'd stick with Tenax. For
larger stuff (sheets with .010 or more cross-section) I'll use Plastruct.
Plastruct seems to have more power.
Jay
C&NW/CNS&M in 1940-1955
remove "ponent" to reply
Robert Heller
In a message on Sat, 5 Apr 2003 21:37:20 -0600, wrote :
"C> Folks,
"C>
"C>
"C>
"C> I have a couple of old bottles of Plastruct Plastic Weld. The active
"C> ingredient is trichloromethane.
"C>
"C>
"C>
"C> Is there any difference between Plastic Weld and Tenax?
"C>
"C>
"C>
"C> I usually use Tenax on models such as Branchline, Proto2000, Red Caboose and
"C> Intermountain. Will the Plastic Weld behave the same on these models as
"C> Tenax?
"C>
"C>
"C>
"C> I am too chicken to try it without some advance advice from someone
"C> knowledgeable.
See what happens when you use Plastruct Plastic Weld on pieces of waste
(sprues) from one of your Branchline, Proto2000, Red Caboos, or
Intermountain kits. If Plastruct Plastic Weld works will on the waste
(sprues) it should work fine.
"C>
"C>
"C>
"C> Also, are their any additional or different health risks associated with
"C> Plastic Weld other than those associated with the use or Tenax?
"C>
"C>
"C>
"C> Thanks in advance!
"C>
"C>
"C>
"C> Allen Cain
"C>
"C> Murfreesboro, TN
"C>
"C>
"C>
DaViking
None of the tricloromethane is good for you, but there should be an
indicator with the name tricloromethane (I),
(II), ( III )... Three or higher, get rid of it... The fumes will
cause liver damage, and getting any of it in a cut can possibly cause
permanent damage, or even cause death.
If you do use any of it... ventilate the area well, with the exhaust going
out doors.
I use acetone, MEK ( methel ethel keytone ) and some
standard liquid glues for various plastics.. put most of it
on with a syringe ( glass barrel ) and stainless needle.
I also test every new plastic to see what works, and how
much open time I have...
AND I also vent these fumes outdoors.... Just plain ol
model glue, or Duco cement will give you one bitch of
a headach, and the Hydrocarbon vapors that you are
breathing don't do you a bit of good... Your body stores
the molecular hydrocarbons in the fumes, and unlike lots
of things that you breath in, they do not get passed out of
the body.. they stay, the level building up every time
you breath these fumes in... Breathing Triclor is the same,
its a hydrocarbon, just very concentrated with relation to
a lot of the others...
Please be cautious. Good railroaders are hard to find.
Have a great day, and a better tomorrow..
T.D. Jones
Conyers, Ga.
Viki...@attbi.com
"Allen Cain" <allen...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:wLScnSajZ_J...@comcast.com...
HICJHH
Thanks.
EssEm
wrote:
>I use acetone, MEK ( methel ethel keytone ) and some
>standard liquid glues for various plastics..
MEK? Stirring in my memory is an article from about 40 years ago in
the UK magazine Railway Modeller which stated (if my memory serves me
correctly) that Phosgene (a poison gas from WW1) was made by passing
MEK vapours over a glowing ember - the incomplete combustion gave
Phosgene.
Now my memory on this is hazy, and it was a long time ago, so if
anybody out there has chemical training, maybe they can clear this up
by either proving or disproving it? The theme of the article was that
a glowing cigarette was a glowing ember, so if the MEK bottle was
open...
Being definitely a long time ex-smoker, I remain
Steve
Edgeworth Oz
Jim Guthrie
>MEK? Stirring in my memory is an article from about 40 years ago in
>the UK magazine Railway Modeller which stated (if my memory serves me
>correctly) that Phosgene (a poison gas from WW1) was made by passing
>MEK vapours over a glowing ember - the incomplete combustion gave
>Phosgene.
My chemistry isn't all that wonderful, but I think it was carbon
tetrachloride which produces Phosgene when passed over glowing embers.
But I think the results of doing the same with MEK produce something
that is just as bad. As a matter of interest, the late George
Slater, who promoted the use of styrene sheet (Plastikard) and MEK
solvent in the UK was a regular exhibitor of the materials at
exhibitions during the 60s and he also chain smoked. I often
wondered how he survived to the age he was :-)
Jim.
Les Pickstock
Jim Guthrie <j...@sprockets.co.uk> wrote in article
>
> My chemistry isn't all that wonderful, but I think it was carbon
> tetrachloride which produces Phosgene when passed over glowing embers.
That's right Phosgene (see Weapons of Mass Destruction) was made from Carbon Tetrachloride.
My home town was home to a large Carbon Tet plant which during WWII had stockpiled Phosgene Gas bombs for use in anger. After the war, when they had not been used, they were turned back into Carbon Tetrachloride for commercial use.
Plastic Weld is based on Dichloromethane, although we used to use Chloroform for gluing Acryllic until they started making us sign the "Poisons book" when we bought it.
Lester D. Shubin
Lester
Frank A. Rosenbaum
Passing the old refrigerants (chlorofluorocarbons) over an acetylene torch
will produce Phosgene. I do not know if the new refrigerants will produce
Phosgene.
--
From the computer of
Frank A. Rosenbaum
"Lester D. Shubin" <Lester...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3E92457C...@cox.net...
Andy Harman
Both will work on most plastics. Plastic Weld is slower to evaporate,
noticably so - making it more useful for working with larger parts and
such, but I prefer Tenax for most everything. PW has a bad habit of
deforming things like Cannon cabs, just by virtue of the fact that it
lays a few seconds before dissappearing. Tenax is fairly safe in that
regard, but it takes a bit of practice to be able to let the stuff fly
before it just dries on the brush. Sometimes it takes 2, 3 passes -
but a second later you've got a joint and the glue is gone. PW lays
around and can deform thin and delicate parts quite easily.
Plastic Weld is also formulated to work on the rubbery ABS that
Plastruct sells. I've used Tenax on this stuff, to some degree of
success, but I usually prefer styrene. The Highliners F units are
made of Lustran 240 ABS, and I have had no problems gluing the parts
with Tenax.
Health-wise, I wouldn't know. Both are heady solvents and you want to
ventilate and avoid the vapors as much as possible. I find the vapor
from Tenax to be less than almost any other plastic cement - maybe
just because it vaporizes so quickly. Testors liquid cement is
horrible stuff, runs all over the place, doesn't dry fast enough, and
stinks. And the old tube "airplane glue" slow-drying ooze has the
worst vapor of all.
I used Plastic Weld for almost everything until I tried Tenax. I keep
a bottle of PW around but I bet I haven't touched it in a year.
Andy
zimmie
"HICJHH" <hic...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030406232440...@mb-cr.aol.com...
> Are there any of these types of glues that are less toxic then others??
> Thanks.
Yes,
I am using Plastruct Weldene Non-Toxic. The bottle says it will bond in
seconds, true enough, but I find that it may take 300 of them (seconds).
It has a pleasent odor, namely citrus, and it claims to bond clear styrene
without crazing it, that claim is correct. It will bond ONLY styrene. I
got mine from Walthers, same price as regular Weldene.
zim