Another glue question: What is Walther's Goo?
Don Gross
articles I have seen references to "Walther's Goo". I have not seen it
in my local hobby store. What type of glue is it? What's a reasonable
substitute? Thanks.
Don
PS Thanks for the replies on glueing down track.
Steve Hoskins
gr...@cig.mot.com (Don Gross) wrote:
>I seem to have adhesives on the brain this week. In several books and
>articles I have seen references to "Walther's Goo". I have not seen it
>in my local hobby store. What type of glue is it? What's a reasonable
>substitute? Thanks.
It was a contact-type cement, medium brown in color, and would glue almost
anything to almost anything. It had one problem....it dried out after a
few years and whatever it was holding together fell apart.
GS4No4449
mistake it only lasted about half way through the season and then it became
loose.
Andy Harman
>I seem to have adhesives on the brain this week. In several books and
>articles I have seen references to "Walther's Goo". I have not seen it
>in my local hobby store. What type of glue is it? What's a reasonable
>substitute? Thanks.
Goo is a contact cement similar to Weldwood, Pliobond and others. It
has very high shear strength and modest tensile strength; it's kind of
the opposite of CA. You can use it to glue things where a little slop
will not matter, especially dissimilar materials. Gluing metal weights
to wood floors for instance, or plastic floors. You wouldn't want to
use it in cases where a more specific adhesive is available, i.e.
styrene to styrene. Goo is acetone based, or at least can be thinned
with pure acetone which makes an interesting substance. Thinned goo
can be brushed on with no "cobwebs" and the acetone evaporates
quickly, turning the thing you brushed into a piece of duct tape
effectively. I used this technique once to attach the stainless
grilles to an E-unit; brushed the thin Goo on, let it evaporate, and
stuck the grill on the loco like a self-adhesive band-aid.
Goo is *similar* to other contact cements, but not identical. I once
tried to thin some Weldwood with acetone and ended up with a large
blubbery eraser permanently stuck in a Weldwood jar.
The properties of Goo at it's various stages of evaporation, hardness,
and decay could be someone's chemistry thesis someday. I once made
the mistake of using Goo to attach some Kadee #5's in their own draft
gear boxes to the mounting platforms on a pair of Athearn F-units, an
A and B (dummy). When I thought they were fully set, I started
running the locos pulling a modest train of maybe 12 cars. A while
later I noticed the A and B unit had separated... typical when coupler
heights are mismatched. The B was trailing along about 8" behind the
A... then I thought... waitaminnit! I don't have a powered B unit!
The coupler/draft gear that had been attached to the rear of the
A-unit was *still* coupled to the coupler on the front of the B unit.
And it was attached to the A-unit by an 8-inch long strand of
stretched-out Goo! Goo is not good for firm attachments, but it's
also very unwilling to let go no matter how hard it's pushed! That's
why it's lousy for things like coupler mounts which must be firm and
immovable, but great for large area or heavy jobs where nothing else
will work well.
The adhesives I normally keep on hand are liquid solvent type, my
current preference is Tenax; a slightly thicker/slower drying liquid
like Plastic Weld, which is easier to work with on large areas but
will distort very fine plastic parts like Cannon stuff because it
takes too long to evaporate; a white glue for wood or low-stress
installs requiring a clear cement, like window glass, and of course
ballasting and related enterprises; thin CA for the times when you
need a temporary locator bond that is easily broken; thick CA for
attaching primarily metal to plastic bonds, and the occasional plastic
to plastic like Cannon doors when use of a solvent is risking
damage... and Goo.
My favorite household application of model RR supply items: In my
condo, my clothes dryer door wouldn't stay open and it was a real pain
to load it when the door kept falling shut. I didn't want to tilt the
dryer so the door would fall open either. So I attached a Kadee #308
keeper plate to the wall just to the left of the dryer... with Goo of
course, and then stuck the 308 magnet on it. Open the door - stick it
to the magnet and it stays put! I moved 7 years ago and I *still*
haven't relocated that magnet in my current laundry room... and it
needs it.
Andy
-------------------------------------------
Please reply to aharman at hhcustom dot com
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John Alaniva
that my 15 autoracks will lose their panels sometime? I haven't found a
glue that works as well as Goo (no distortion of plastic) for this
application. Any thoughts?
John
Bruce Z. Friedman
I used to. You definitely need to let GOO breath a few minutes before
attaching plastic . If you don't, it will come back and haunt you! I have a
couple of auto racks where the panels have warped due to this problem.
Luckily, I just peeled the warped panels off and replaced them with new
ones. Goo is a very flexible glue too.
Bruce Friedman
Ned Carey
substitute. Contact cement means you must let the solvent evaporate
before pushing the pieces together. The ideal is after gluing, push
the parts together and pull them apart right away, let the glue dry,
then push them back together. If you have done it right, the parts
should be very very tough to pull back apart. If you can pull them
back apart with strings of glue attached you didn't wait long enough
for the glue to dry. Caution when using it in an enclosed space, like
gluing weights inside a box car. The fumes can eventually warp the
plastic. Allowing the Goo (contact cement ) to dry completely before
attaching parts can minimize this effect.
Another glue which Andy Harman didn't mention is epoxy. With styrene
cements and ACC around, epoxies seem to be a forgotten glue. It's a
little more hassle to use than ACC but I feel a little more permanent.
Many hobby shops sell epoxy in bottles that are easy to mix and in
various drying times.
Ned Carey
Don Gross wrote in message <758ntl$7a...@nntp.cig.mot.com>...
>I seem to have adhesives on the brain this week. In several books and
>articles I have seen references to "Walther's Goo". I have not seen
it
>in my local hobby store. What type of glue is it? What's a reasonable
>substitute? Thanks.
>
slam...@my-dejanews.com
> articles I have seen references to "Walther's Goo". I have not seen it
> in my local hobby store. What type of glue is it? What's a reasonable
> substitute? Thanks.
>
Goo is a contact cement. I prefer the consistency of Pliobond more than I do
Goo. Lately, I've been using Pliobond for everything, even fixing the grill
on our home A/C condenser. I've used it whenever I needed to fasten anything
to PVC or fasten together two different types of material (e.g. wood to
metal, plastic to wood, etc.).
Both adhesives are great, but they work best when there is as much flat
surface to flat surface as possible on the joint. The great thing about
these glues is that they will glue almost any two materials together and
remain a pliable, but sufficiently strong joint. Although they aren't
epoxies, I think of them as a flexible epoxy. Since Goo and Pliobond are
contact cements, they are applied differently than epoxies and they don't
come in two-part mixtures.
As with all chemicals in this hobby, though, be sure to use them in an
adequately vented area and recap the containers as soon as possible.
--
Sean Lamb
Capitol City "N"Gineers --- http://www.msn.fullfeed.com/~slambo/capcity.htm
"A day without laughter is a day wasted." -- Groucho Marx
Note: Spam to this address will add you to my killfile.
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Peter King
believe Walthers purchased Hobsco.) However, I've only ever heard it
referred to as Walthers' Goo. Seems Walthers must have finally bowed to
the pressure, and renamed it, because that's what everyone called it!
It's also one of the few Walthers products that is sold through
wholesalers other than Walthers.
Peter King in NY
Andy Harman
<alan...@tacom.army.mil> wrote:
>Someone posted that Goo dries out after a period of time. Does this mean
>that my 15 autoracks will lose their panels sometime? I haven't found a
>glue that works as well as Goo (no distortion of plastic) for this
>application. Any thoughts?
It may depend on the material being glued. Sometime before I was born
my dad glued some linotype slugs to the wood floor of a Walthers
passenger car kit with Goo. They're still there, although the rest of
the car isn't <g>.
Andy Harman
wrote:
>Another glue which Andy Harman didn't mention is epoxy. With styrene
>cements and ACC around, epoxies seem to be a forgotten glue. It's a
>little more hassle to use than ACC but I feel a little more permanent.
>Many hobby shops sell epoxy in bottles that are easy to mix and in
>various drying times.
Epoxy is good for when you need a longer dry/set time than you get
with most CA. Thick CA meets epoxy halfway, but still doesn't have
the same shear strength. Epoxy is also much more effective on metal
than CA. Try the Athearn weight experiment... take two Athearn steel
weights, clean them up - lightly sand off any surface rust, wipe with
some alcohol or solvent to remove any oils. Glue them together with
Goo using the contact/dry method. Glue another pair together with
thin CA. Another with thick CA, and another with epoxy. In all cases
firmly clamp the weights together in a vice or with C-clamps until the
normal cure/set time for the glue has elapsed.
The thick CA will hold pretty well, but if you can get a knife blade
or screwdriver between them, they'll come apart fairly easily.
The thin CA will probably pop apart as soon as you take it out of the
vice, unless the weights are perfectly flat. The flex stress of a
slightly bent piece of steel is about enough to dislodge thin CA.
The epoxy will be extremely difficult to break apart; you can get a
knife under it but you'd have to chisel down the whole length to get
it completely apart.
The Goo will give but not let go... will be the hardest to get
completely apart and especially getting the residue off.
If a somewhat "rubbery" bond is acceptable, and the part (such as a
weight) will be concealed, Goo is the easy choice. For better
cosmetic appearance and a firm, solid bond, epoxy is the way to go
with thick CA a viable substitute... it's quicker and handier than
mixing 2-part epoxy but not as strong. Thin CA is useless on metal to
metal except as a temporary bond. I used to use it to tack down Kadee
magnets on plastic ties. One quick pop with a screwdriver would
easily remove them without breaking them.
Andy Harman
>Interesting thing about Goo. Until fairly recently, it was Hobsco Goo. (I
>believe Walthers purchased Hobsco.) However, I've only ever heard it
>referred to as Walthers' Goo. Seems Walthers must have finally bowed to
>the pressure, and renamed it, because that's what everyone called it!
Hobsco was just another Walthers-owned "house brand"...may have been
independent at one time. I believe it was "Walthers Goo" from day
one, and the Hobsco name wasn't put on until the 1970's. They must
have finally decided to drop it.
John Alaniva
One definitely needs to follow the directions in this application
(autorack panels). It ain't a pretty sight to see what happens to them
if you don't let it breathe first! I use an applicator tip to control
the flow and place three stripes across the back of each panel roughly
corresponding to the breaks in the front. This seems to work much better
than my previous technique of placing 5 dots.
John
Alan Arthur
(super glue,etc.) It's similiar in use to Goo but much stronger, it
sticks so tight to a metal can motor I had to use pliers to pull the
residue off when I was done testing. I found it on sale in a drugstore
but Pacer products are widely available. Alan
Warren Kellogg
w
Brad & Kathy Dunlop
On December 19 Warren Kellogg wrote in message
<75hqru$5k9$2...@camel29.mindspring.com>...
>So...what's the best adhesive to use for resin kits?
>
>w
Select the Super Glue button on this page
http://www.isp.on.ca/Sylvan/modeling.htm
Brad Dunlop