[HO] best way to join flex track
a_w_ha...@hotmail.com
recently started using flex track, but I can't for the life of me figure
out a good way to join it.
Rail joiners don't seem to work too well because the ties don't allow
any space to slip them on, and modifying the ties to do so always seems
to result in an ugly mess more than anything else.
My other attempt was to align the tracks, nail them down, and solder
them together, but the solder joints keep going bad every month or so,
and they don't look all that great either.
I figure there must be a good way to do it since many people use flex
track, but I just can't seem to figure it out.
Andrew
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Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
Booker1067
track (usuall just slicing off the spike heads will do the trick, and sometimes
you need to cut the anchor strip that runs along the bottom of the rail that
ties all the tie strip together in a neat row). Don't throw these away you'll
use them again later. Now clean the rail, and attach your jointers dab on a
small amount of flux paste, (and you may want to use a couple of heat sinks to
keep the heat of the soldering gun from damaging the ties left on the track).
Now solder the track allow to cool, now cut the molded on tie plates from the
strips you cut off earler, then take a drill or dremel tool and grind some of
the plastic on the tie strip where the rail will rest when you replace the
strips, then place some glue on the cork or table top where the ties will be
placed, and set them back under he rails. After you ballast and weather your
rail you'll wonder which one you did remove... Hope this helps, and have fun.
Bruce H. Stull
Rail joiners are for Girl Scouts.
You align the rails physicaly. You feed them electricaly
every three feet.
You're done!
Bruce
Scale Shops
**** Posted from RemarQ - http://www.remarq.com - Discussions Start Here (tm) ****
MEAT7
>any space to slip them on, and modifying the ties to do so always seems
>to result in an ugly mess more than anything else.
I know another poster mentioned the cut and save method for flex track. I
perfer not to actyallyu cut the ties off.
When joining flex track, I extend the movable rail out of the second piece, and
slide it into the exposed molded rail spikes (with out cutting until I have to,
like where turnouts will be). This can be reversed, if the first piece of rail
has the extended rail from curving.
Where the rail joiners go, I cut off the spike heads with an exacto knife., and
slip the joiner onto the rail. This may take a little effort, as well as
making sure the end of the joiner is flat (breaking apart joiner strips can
result in joiners with an up or down lip).
I seat the second rail securely, by lining it up, and pressing it home by hand.
If it's a little tight, yuo can snuf the rails up against each other by
tapping on the far end of the second piece of flex track.
This will result in track that is less likely to kink at the joints, and
reduces the number of junctions that have joints in both rails at the exact
same place.
>but the solder joints keep going bad every month or so,
>and they don't look all that great either.
The solder joints shouldn't be going bad. Pardon me if yuo are aware of the
following...
1. You should use a paste flux. With a cotton swab, dab a little in the area
that you will be soldering, before you put it together. This will help the
solder take hold.
2. The solder should not bead on the joint. If it is, then you aren't getting
the parts hot enought. I prefer using a 45 Watt soldering pencil. The solder
should flow and spread into the joint. You will only need a tiny bit of
solder, once you get well practiced, you will should be able to solder rail
together so that you can hardly see the solder, even if you are looking for it.
3. Not really soldering related, but paint any visible with a brownish-rusty
colour to help hide the silver.
Hope this helps.
-Scott-
WhitAdele
room for the rail joiner and not leave a small hump. Grasp the flex track in
one hand and gently work the saw under the rail and over the tie at an angle. A
thin piece of the tie should come out. Then you don't need to replace a tie as
it is always there.
And, solder should not fail to carry current. I picked up some paste at my
plumbing house years ago that likes dirty work. The dirtier the work the better
it works. It doesn't take much to do the job. A hot always works better than
heating up iron, even the instant ones.
Homer
Frank A. Rosenbaum
permit the track to slide properly when it is being bent.
What about silver solder? Is the temp required to melt the solder high
enough to severely damage the plastic? Could silver soldering be done with a
resistance soldering unit?
--
From Frank in White Plains, NY
New Email: f...@cyburban.com
Booker1067 wrote in message
<19990626192651...@ng-fg1.aol.com>...
Bob Huson
NEVER use flux paste on electrical components. I'll stick to resin core
solder, good heat sinking techniques and a hot tip iron.
Bruce E. Wilson
paste, be sure and wash the flux residue off of the rails to avoid crossion
in the future. Rosin flux is not corrosive to electrical conections
Bob Huson wrote in message
<1999062710...@1cust128.tnt4.everett2.wa.da.uu.net>...
David E. Husman
Frank A. Rosenbaum <f...@cyburban.com> wrote in article
<pknd3.30694$Ot1.3...@newscene.newscene.com>...
> That is fine for tangent track. What about for curves? The railjoiners
won't
> permit the track to slide properly when it is being bent.
=================================
Bend the flex-track to the curve.
Trim off the excess rail (Radio Shack sells a pair of flush cutting pliers
for well under $10 that work great for trimming rail) and ties.
Now apply the rail joiners.
Join the new flex track section to the existing one.
Solder the joints if you want.
Install the filler ties.
====================================
> What about silver solder? Is the temp required to melt the solder high
> enough to severely damage the plastic? Could silver soldering be done
with a
> resistance soldering unit?
==================================
Regular old Radio Shack tin solder is quite strong enough. The key is
getting the rails clean and using paste flux. A little dab of solder will
do it.
Dave H.
David E. Husman
> Rail joiners are for Girl Scouts.
==============================
You might want to mention that to the prototypes, since every single one of
them uses the equivalent of rail joiners on jointed rail.
Dave H.
Paul Tackowiak
a_w_ha...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I have been modeling with sectional track for years now and have only
> recently started using flex track, but I can't for the life of me figure
> out a good way to join it.
>
Sounds like you need A) better rail joiners, B) better solder, and C) some
small snippers. Here's what I do -
I use Shinohara rail joiners (if you can't find those use Walthers). I
remove a couple of ties at each end of the flex track by cutting the plastic
connection under the rail with my snippers and then sliding the ties off.
After joining the track nice and tight I apply the soldering gun directly to
the rail joiner and then touch the end of the joiner with some very fine,
rosin core solder from Miniatronics. With practice you can do this so
discretely that only a small amount of solder is used and actually drawn
into the joiner sleeve. [Good soldering takes a little practice and a clean
and tight tip on the soldering gun or iron.] After laying the track I come
back and slip in the old ties (after shaving off some of the tie plates).
Glue them down with Goo, ballast the track, and you're done.
Paul Tackowiak
Paul Tackowiak
"David E. Husman" wrote:
> Frank A. Rosenbaum <f...@cyburban.com> wrote in article
> <pknd3.30694$Ot1.3...@newscene.newscene.com>...
> > That is fine for tangent track. What about for curves? The railjoiners
> won't
> > permit the track to slide properly when it is being bent.
> =================================
> Bend the flex-track to the curve.
> Trim off the excess rail (Radio Shack sells a pair of flush cutting pliers
> for well under $10 that work great for trimming rail) and ties.
> Now apply the rail joiners.
> Join the new flex track section to the existing one.
> Solder the joints if you want.
> Install the filler ties.
>
I would never recommend joining and soldering flex track in the middle of a
curve. Given the fact that this person is having difficulty joining straight
flex track, doing it on a curve is asking for serious trouble. I always solder
flex track straight and then bend it - even over 12' of track. This means you
have to cut more ties off the ends and have a long piece of rail to trim as
well. It also means your curve is very smooth and free of kinks.
Paul Tackowiak
Frank A. Rosenbaum
the lengths together BEFORE bending. That is why I asked the question.
>
>
>Frank A. Rosenbaum <f...@cyburban.com> wrote in article
><pknd3.30694$Ot1.3...@newscene.newscene.com>...
>> That is fine for tangent track. What about for curves? The railjoiners
>won't
>> permit the track to slide properly when it is being bent.
>=================================
>Bend the flex-track to the curve.
>Trim off the excess rail (Radio Shack sells a pair of flush cutting pliers
>for well under $10 that work great for trimming rail) and ties.
>Now apply the rail joiners.
>Join the new flex track section to the existing one.
>Solder the joints if you want.
>Install the filler ties.
cliff/ eleanor
required. Radio Shack has a silver bearing solder that is useable where
more strength is required as in turnout construction . Regular solder I
have found to be fine for rail joining-----Cliff
David E. Husman <dhu...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<01bec112$ab4bdb80$f5cf4b0c@default>...
Jeff
electical conductor in addition to the rail joiner, which is essentially
what you do when you solder a power feeder to each section of flextrack.
For jointed rail you do want to have a rail joiner with NBW castings on
each (prototype length) section, and they are now becoming available.
Unfortunately, the typical model rail joiner looks nothing like the
prototype joiner.
If you physically align the rails and solder them together without a ril
joiner showing, it might look more like continuous welded rail. Of
curse, if you want to be a rivet counter you drill the two or three
little holes on each side of the joint...probably easier to do before
joining the rails.
--
Jeff
Two blocks from the N&W Valley line
TOM
>
> Flux paste can be corrosive, that is why we don't use it. If you do use flux
> paste, be sure and wash the flux residue off of the rails to avoid crossion
> in the future. Rosin flux is not corrosive to electrical conections
NoKorode is a soldering paste that works in electrical soldering... I
have been using it for years when soldering track, it has NEVER caused
corrosion on ANY of my rail joints.
Have fun... :>))
--
<><><> TOM <><><>
-----------------
Bruce E. Wilson
Bruce
TOM <tom...@funtv.com> wrote in message news:37782C79...@funtv.com...
Paul Welsh
>
> Baloney!
>
> Rail joiners are for Girl Scouts.
>
> every three feet.
>
> You're done!
You've posted this advice before and I thought you were kidding. I would
like to hear how you "hold the rails physically" without using joiners.
It seems to me it would be O.K. using Snap Track, but I have a hard time
seeing it done reliably with flextrack; at best it would be a lot harder
to do. Also, what is the advantage of not using joiners? Do you know of
a model railroad that was actually built that way, and how reliable is
the trackwork?
--
___
___|0|_|___ Paul Welsh
| D&RGW | "I never saw a model railroad, or hamburger, I didn't like"
= oo---oo = Email: exd...@bellatlantic.net
Pekka Siiskonen
-- shouldn't some physical gaps be needed to prevent wooden layout baseboard
expansion and contraction from ruining the trackwork as humidity varies
-- what's the difference between "rosin" and "resin" (english is not my
native language!)
I'd solder joints (w. solder designed for electronic equipment assy, no
additional paste or flux) at curves, but never on straight line and would
always use rail joiners and span the gap with omega loop and in hard to get
places -- like tunnels -- would insert a feeder to each section of rail
(yes, I've read Mallery's books!)
Pekka Siiskonen
john a dalton
>-- what's the difference between "rosin" and "resin" (english is not my
>native language!)
>Pekka Siiskonen
...'rosin" comes from the finely-ground dried-sap of an evergreen tree
(pine, cedar, etc)...it's most frequent use is a "rosin bag", used by
baseball pitchers for a "good grip on the ball"...
..."resin" is the liquid that is combined with a catalyst to form a
very strong adhesive...when combined with a glass-fiber cloth, you
have "fiberglass"...(Fiberglas[tm] Owens-Corning Corp)...
...big john... :))
Håkan Ågren
/ H
john a dalton wrote in message <3778c39d...@news.mindspring.com>...
TOM
>
> Thanks for the update, TOM, I am a little behind the times.
> Bruce
:>))
--
<><><> TOM <><><>
-----------------
Bruce H. Stull
Drill starter holes and use Walthers spikes #945-3421. Yes,
you can "physically" position the track where you want it
(use track guages). (Note you do not have to solder them -
you DO supply feeders every three feet, don't you?).
In backgrounds and under tunnels - use rail-joiners - they
don't show.
Up front consider feeders alone for esthetics (prototype
connectors don't show).
Used this method for some 17 years on three layouts and
four modular layouts with success.
Depends on how important esthetics are to you. Always
remember it is YOUR layout. If you want to run purple
engines and pink cabeese, that's OK with me. It is YOUR
layout.
In any case, Happy Modeling!
John Volker
and drill six holes in each strip. I use very small brass rod cut into
small pin like pieces. A drop of CA and it holds very well and looks good
too.
Paul Tackowiak
"Bruce H. Stull" wrote:
> Yes, Paul, it is "harder to do", but I think it is worth it.
>
> Drill starter holes and use Walthers spikes #945-3421. Yes,
> you can "physically" position the track where you want it
> (use track guages). (Note you do not have to solder them -
> you DO supply feeders every three feet, don't you?).
>
I don't understand how you can insure a smooth curve across a gap like that unless
you've used a rail bender or something to ensure that the ends of the rail don't try
to straighten out. It seems that for most people trying lay a flex curve without using
joiners is sort of asking for multiple derailments unless they essentially want to
master the fundamentals of hand laying track - which is always nice, but probably far
beyond the interests of the person who started this thread.
Paul Tackowiak (different Paul)
Semjase
>From: "John Volker" <tank...@usit.net>
>Date: Tue, 29 June 1999 11:00 PM EDT
>Message-id: <mLfe3.2947$c5.7...@news1.usit.net>
use nickel silver sheet instead of styrene and solder it? This needs more
investigation!
Alternately you could if you have the alignment equipment drill into the end of
the rail and insert pins and then join it like tinplate track.
Tony
Paul Welsh
>
> "Bruce H. Stull" wrote:
>
> > Yes, Paul, it is "harder to do", but I think it is worth it.
> >
> > Drill starter holes and use Walthers spikes #945-3421. Yes,
> > you can "physically" position the track where you want it
> > (use track guages). (Note you do not have to solder them -
> > you DO supply feeders every three feet, don't you?).
> >
>
> I don't understand how you can insure a smooth curve across a gap like that unless
> you've used a rail bender or something to ensure that the ends of the rail don't try
> Paul Tackowiak (different Paul)
I didn't see your original reply for some reason Bruce, but I'm assuming
that it's quoted complete above. In that case I have to ask you again:
What is the advantage of not using joiners? Do you know of a model
railroad that was actually built that way, and how reliable is
the trackwork?
Paul T makes a key point. If the ends of the rails on a curve are not
pre-bent (as with Snap Track), you will not get enough force, using
spikes, to flex the rail enough to prevent a kink. How about some more
details, or a closeup photo of a joint on a curve in an alt.binaries
newsgroup.
TOM
>
> I drill three holes in the end of each rail. I cut small strips of styrene
> and drill six holes in each strip. I use very small brass rod cut into
> small pin like pieces. A drop of CA and it holds very well and looks good
> too.
Is that the new conductive styrene??? :>))
--
<><><> TOM <><><>
-----------------
TOM
>
> >Subject: Re: [HO] best way to join flex track
> >From: "John Volker" <tank...@usit.net>
> >Date: Tue, 29 June 1999 11:00 PM EDT
> >Message-id: <mLfe3.2947$c5.7...@news1.usit.net>
> >
> >and drill six holes in each strip. I use very small brass rod cut into
> >small pin like pieces. A drop of CA and it holds very well and looks good
> >too.
> >
> >
> use nickel silver sheet instead of styrene and solder it? This needs more
> investigation!
>
> Alternately you could if you have the alignment equipment drill into the end of
> the rail and insert pins and then join it like tinplate track.
>
> Tony
Now it's starting to sound like home made track joiners... :>))
--
<><><> TOM <><><>
-----------------
Semjase
>Date: Wed, 30 June 1999 11:09 PM EDT
>Message-id: <377ADBD3...@funtv.com>
>
>Semjase wrote:
>>
>> >Subject: Re: [HO] best way to join flex track
>> >From: "John Volker" <tank...@usit.net>
>> >Date: Tue, 29 June 1999 11:00 PM EDT
>> >Message-id: <mLfe3.2947$c5.7...@news1.usit.net>
>> >
>> >I drill three holes in the end of each rail. I cut small strips of
>styrene
>> >and drill six holes in each strip. I use very small brass rod cut into
>> >small pin like pieces. A drop of CA and it holds very well and looks good
>> >too.
>> >
>> >
>> That would mean electrically jumping each section beneath the table. Why
>not
>> use nickel silver sheet instead of styrene and solder it? This needs more
>> investigation!
>>
>> Alternately you could if you have the alignment equipment drill into the
>end of
>> the rail and insert pins and then join it like tinplate track.
>Now it's starting to sound like home made track joiners... :>))
Round and round and you end up with the same, well almost, thing!
You got that part right tom.
William J. Higgins
Paul Tackowiak <paul.ta...@bms.com> wrote in message
news:37776280...@bms.com...
>
>
> "David E. Husman" wrote:
>
> > Frank A. Rosenbaum <f...@cyburban.com> wrote in article
> > <pknd3.30694$Ot1.3...@newscene.newscene.com>...
> > > That is fine for tangent track. What about for curves? The railjoiners
> > won't
> > > permit the track to slide properly when it is being bent.
> > =================================
> > Bend the flex-track to the curve.
> > Trim off the excess rail (Radio Shack sells a pair of flush cutting
pliers
> > for well under $10 that work great for trimming rail) and ties.
> > Now apply the rail joiners.
> > Join the new flex track section to the existing one.
> > Solder the joints if you want.
> > Install the filler ties.
> >
>
a
> curve. Given the fact that this person is having difficulty joining
straight
> flex track, doing it on a curve is asking for serious trouble. I always
solder
> flex track straight and then bend it - even over 12' of track. This means
you
> have to cut more ties off the ends and have a long piece of rail to trim
as
> well. It also means your curve is very smooth and free of kinks.
This is how the Limestone Rail Club did their corner modules. The 40" radius
curve also helped alot as well. We also hand laid the switches on the main
tracks.
The Morphetts
sleeper nearest the ends of the track. Then I use a quick squirt of WD40 (an
oily water repellant) on the track before I use small pliers to place the
joiners. Use a spare sleeper (tie) under the join if the distance between
ties looks wrong without it.
Most joining problems come from having your radii too small. Equally, don't
have long straight sections of track - they make your trains look short.
Most of your layout should wind through the landscape. In HO you should try
for differing viewing heights around the layout as well.
And Finally, remember that ballast hides a multiude of sins.
Graham
a_w_ha...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I have been modeling with sectional track for years now and have only
> recently started using flex track, but I can't for the life of me figure
> out a good way to join it.
>
> Rail joiners don't seem to work too well because the ties don't allow
> any space to slip them on, and modifying the ties to do so always seems
> to result in an ugly mess more than anything else.
>
> My other attempt was to align the tracks, nail them down, and solder
> them together, but the solder joints keep going bad every month or so,
> and they don't look all that great either.
>
> I figure there must be a good way to do it since many people use flex
> track, but I just can't seem to figure it out.
>
> Andrew
>
> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
> Share what you know. Learn what you don't.
--
The Coramba Creek Timber Company's Railway
Web Page:
http://www.onthenet.com.au/~grahamm/cctcr
ICQ #: 8322797
toxi...@uswest.net
ends of the rails are not side by side. An offset of a
couple of inches helps to keep everything smooth. Also, I
solder the connections together to make a stronger joint,
but you need to be careful not to melt the ties when doing
this. (Learned that part the hard way! :)