Affixing track and switches to foam roadbed
Steve Woodall
number of years, and haven't done so before on Woodland's foam roadbed.
Virtually all of the trackwork is tangent, with a great many switches in
this first module. All soldering to track joints has been done as well as
track feeds, and switch machines are in place and tested, so I had in mind
something to adhere by capillary to the underside of the ties, and would lay
very flat for ballasting later.
I just haven't been reading the mags and how-to's recently, and Woodland's
suggested tacky glue doesn't seem to best fit my needs. So I thank you in
advance for suggested products.
Steve Woodall
the OTHER Mike
1st step - open lid to trash can
Wolf K
Glue cork roadbed (I prefer to think of it as a ballast former) in place
on top of the Woodland Scenics roadbed, and use pins to hold the track
until you ballast it. Use a water-based, plastic compatible contact
cement to hold the cork. Do not use the construction cement sold in
tubes, it's too thick. The WS roadbed is not suited as a ballast former.
HTH
wolf k.
fl@liner
I've had decent success with Elmer's Pliobond. It is a
yellow liquid similar to their carpenter's glue. I've used
it to atach foam to foam, WS roadbed to foam, and Atlas C55
track to the WS roadbed. It holds well and can be separated
with a steel putty knife or straight edge if necessary. It
is also waterproof, and can be ballasted with PVA glue as usual.
Better places than here to get good answers would be the
Trainboard or Atlas forums.
--
Mike
"A man who thinks of himself as belonging to a particular
national group in America has not yet become an American.
And the man who goes among you to trade upon your
nationality is no worthy son to live under the Stars and
Stripes."
-- Woodrow Wilson
Steve Woodall
there are a few spots that I would have difficulty raising the trackwork
enough to get the nozzle or a brush ladened with the Pliobond into. If my
trial method (see reply to Wolf K) doesn't work, then I will fall back to
the way I've done track on cork before.
Steve
"fl@liner" <fu...@afu.net> wrote in message
news:h250lr$pcc$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Steve Woodall
since this is a terminal and the ballast tends to become a tough shell when
completed.
I've got a test section going right now, using rubber toughened CA that has
a sifferent formula than the standard CA adhesives. It hasn't burned through
the foam yet, and it does have a bit of flexibility to the joint when set.
Added bonus is the tiny applicator tip will fit between the ties in tight
situations (of which there are many). I mainly just need to hold the track
in straight lines until I get to the ballast portion of this project.
Thanks, Wolf. See you on the other NG later.
Steve
"Wolf K" <wek...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4a45fd63$0$2939$9a6e...@news.newshosting.com...
Steve Woodall
Steve
"the OTHER Mike" <BleuR...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:9ef711da-b9e2-45ea...@g23g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
Eric Curtis
<swood...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>I'd worked out when I first started this module to try the foam former,
>since this is a terminal and the ballast tends to become a tough shell when
>completed.
>I've got a test section going right now, using rubber toughened CA that has
>a sifferent formula than the standard CA adhesives. It hasn't burned through
>the foam yet, and it does have a bit of flexibility to the joint when set.
>Added bonus is the tiny applicator tip will fit between the ties in tight
>situations (of which there are many). I mainly just need to hold the track
>in straight lines until I get to the ballast portion of this project.
>
>Thanks, Wolf. See you on the other NG later.
>
>Steve
Hi guys,
As an interested observer who's been following this newsgroup for
years, but unable to post until recently, could you tell me which
other newsgroup, or other forum that's in better shape than this one
(I've been dismayed that this one has deteriorated to the point where
the Greg and Ray show is 90% of what I'm seeing these days) you are
referring to.
Thanks for any help,
Eric Curtis
Wolf K
[...]
> (I've been dismayed that this one has deteriorated to the point where
> the Greg and Ray show is 90% of what I'm seeing these days) you are
> referring to.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
>
> Eric Curtis
All new readers have filtering capabilities. Set up a filter to block
posts that you won't want to see.
Or don't open the posts.
HTH
wolf k.
David Nebenzahl
> Eric Curtis wrote:
>
> [...]
>
>> (I've been dismayed that this one has deteriorated to the point where
>> the Greg and Ray show is 90% of what I'm seeing these days) you are
>> referring to.
>
> All new readers have filtering capabilities. Set up a filter to block
> posts that you won't want to see.
>
> Or don't open the posts.
That's what I do; just ignore 'em. Easy, requires no configuration.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
pet...@my-deja.com
I have to agree with Mike. I strongly recommend against using WS foam
roadbed. It is just too soft and squishy to provide adequate support
for track. We used on about half of friends N scale layout but we
ended up switching to cork. Not only it is difficult to glue, it is
so soft that if you accidentally rest your hand on the ballasted track
it will give in, cracking all the ballast in that area. Cork is much
stiffer and you won't have that problem.
As far as glue goes, that foam is not styrofoam and it is very
resistant to all glue solvents. You can basically use anything you
want (even glues which would melt styrene).
We're seriously considering ripping it all up and replacing it with
cork roadbed.
Mike really had a good suggestion.
Peteski
On Jun 27, 9:35 pm, "Steve Woodall" <swoodall...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Thanks, but no.
> Steve
>
> "the OTHER Mike" <BleuRae...@aol.com> wrote in messagenews:9ef711da-b9e2-45ea...@g23g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
Steve Woodall
product works well for this purpose, with maybe 45 seconds of workable time
before it takes a set. The area that it is applied to still retains some
elasticity.
The problem lies in the delivery container. No matter how much I tried to
clean the tip and the ferrel, this stuff is much thicker than even the gel
style CA, and tends to slump and bridge inside the tip.
So, this method is a not to be repeated experiment. Back to good ol'
Pliobond.
Thanks all for your suggestions.
Steve Woodall
LD
news:e7KdnduRUJc9c9bX...@giganews.com...
> As a follow up to this trial with the rubber toughened CA adhesive, the
> product works well for this purpose, with maybe 45 seconds of workable
> time
> before it takes a set. The area that it is applied to still retains some
> elasticity.
>
> The problem lies in the delivery container. No matter how much I tried to
> clean the tip and the ferrel, this stuff is much thicker than even the gel
> style CA, and tends to slump and bridge inside the tip.
Might the manufacturer supply it in other types of container? Often
retailers only carry limited options.
Ray Haddad
<swood...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>The problem lies in the delivery container. No matter how much I tried to
>clean the tip and the ferrel, this stuff is much thicker than even the gel
>style CA, and tends to slump and bridge inside the tip.
Steve,
Have you tried a T pin like those used in Model Aircraft building?
Some of them are really long and thicker than normal pins making them
ideal for keeping the CA tips from gumming up. The T on the end makes
it very easy to remove even when the glue is doing its best to hold it
in place.
--
Ray