Foam board and flex-track questions
wazoo
This Christmas, I built an N-scale layout on a 4'x4'x3/4" plywood sheet.
It's a sort of a folded-over figure 8, using the Atlas pier set to get the
proper elevation for the crossover. So I have (sort of) two concentric
circles of track, with plenty of space in the center for my Christmas tree.
I added some mountains and tunnels made from ordinary storm window screen
material and some plaster cloth, and wired some little bulbs inside the
tunnels, and the finished product is pretty impressive, given the relatively
small effort and cost.
I never had much interest in model trains before, and I took on the project
mostly to impress my four (going-on-five) year old daughter. I'd hoped that
she might get involved in the construction phase a little with me - maybe
glue on some lichens and smear some paint on the scenery - but I apparently
over-estimated the fine motor skills of five year olds, and that didn't
exactly work out. But we had some fun anyway.
Now, of course, I'm full of ideas for next year's layout. I'd like to keep
the 4x4 footprint, with the tree in the center. But I'd like to run two
trains and I'd like to assemble my next layout with flex track, instead of
soldering together all those little 5" pieces. I'll also probably implement
the tunnel lights in sockets, instead of hard-wiring those little
grain-of-wheat bulbs, so that they're more easily replaced when they burn
out.
I have some questions, and I suspect you are the guys to ask :)
I got a dozen pieces of Atlas code 80 flex track, and I've been putzing
around with the stuff. I notice that one rail sort of "floats" on the ties,
while the other appears to be "captive." Is there a right way to use this
feature? Should I be planning to have the floating rail on the inside side
of a turn or the outside? Should I plan to solder floaters to floaters and
captives to captives or should I stagger them? Or does this not matter at
all?
Also, I'd like to implement multiple elevations with the 2" foam board
material I've seen used in a Model Railroad magazine. I've never seen or
worked with the stuff before, but it's implied that it's a common building
material, and I assume I can get it at a builder's supply. Is there any
specific type or grade of this material that's the "right" stuff? How would
I attach something such as the Atlas bridge piers to this material? Will it
take a nail, or should I plan on using adhesives? Is it paintable? Will it
deform very easily if I solder too near to it?
TIA!
EBTBOB
Let me address some of your questions about flex track.
You are correct about the "floating" and "captive" rails. I call the one
the sliding rail and the other the fixed. Words here are not important.
I try to keep the sliding rail to the inside. Also.....the first piece
I put down, I try to start at least six inches on a straight section. I
delibertly(sp?) slide the one rail out about 2 or three inches. When the next
piece of track is postioned I slide its sliding rail into the nubs on the ties
until it makes contact with the first rail. Take a razor knife and cut off
enough of the nubs, not the ties, the nubs to allow the postioning of a rail
joiner. The reason for the off set is, so when you get into the curves you
will have a solid rail opposite each railjoiner and that will help to prevent
kinks. If you keep the railjoiners side by side as they are with snap track,
it will be much more difficult to prevent the kinking.
Another point about flex track. Only cut your track when you absolutely
must cut it. This would be when you come up against a turnout(switch), a
crossover, or at the end of a stub siding.
Soldering railjoiners is personal choice. If you are running with DCC,
then some rail joiners really should be soldered, but not everyone.
Hope this helps,
Bob Rule, Jr.
Dan Merkel
news:Oc0Jb.35041$q55....@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
Sounds like you caught the model railroad disease! But then again,
according to most of us here, once you "catch it," you are actually cured!!!
It's those who have no interest in model trains that most of us think are
really the sick ones... : )
> I got a dozen pieces of Atlas code 80 flex track, and I've been putzing
> around with the stuff. I notice that one rail sort of "floats" on the
ties,
> while the other appears to be "captive." Is there a right way to use this
> feature? Should I be planning to have the floating rail on the inside
side
> of a turn or the outside? Should I plan to solder floaters to floaters
and
> captives to captives or should I stagger them? Or does this not matter at
> all?
EBTBOB has given you some suggestions in handling flex track. I'd also keep
the moving rail on the inside for a very practical reason... if you bend the
track so that the moving rail is on the outside, it all of a sudden becomes
too short! It's easier in my opinion to cut off a little extending rail
than it is to cut ties and all...
Another way to deal with laying flex track is to solder as you go. So, as
you attach your track around a curve, just keep adding pieces. But, when
you are half way into a curve and see that you'll need another piese, stop
shaping the track about six inches from the end. Square it up, attach the
new section of flex track, then continue around the curve. This is another
way to avoid kinks at joints.
> Also, I'd like to implement multiple elevations with the 2" foam board
> material I've seen used in a Model Railroad magazine. I've never seen or
> worked with the stuff before, but it's implied that it's a common building
> material, and I assume I can get it at a builder's supply. Is there any
> specific type or grade of this material that's the "right" stuff? How
would
> I attach something such as the Atlas bridge piers to this material? Will
it
> take a nail, or should I plan on using adhesives? Is it paintable? Will
it
> deform very easily if I solder too near to it?
The two inch foam board is available at places like Lowes, Home Depot,
minards, etc. Make sure that you don't get "bead board." It is usually
easy to spot as the surface of it looks kind of pebbled like the leather on
a basketball or football. And the edges seem to crumble into wee little
tiny beads that are a pain in the butt to keep tabs on. The blue or pink
foam board is extruded I think... made in a continuous piece that isn't made
up of individual beads.
Model Railroader may also be making mention of different components of the
Woodland Scenics subroadbes system. You can get more ideas about this from
their website. It is a bit on the expensive side, but the pre-formed
pieces, especially the inclines make for very easy grades.
You'll need to glue most everything that you put on the foam board. You can
use long wire nails to help, but they won't hold over long periods. I
usually nail and glue, then remove the nails at a later time.
You might also want to consider looking at cork roadbed for something to lay
under your track. It is cork strips that pull apart to form a beveled base
for your track. I usually spraypaint mine with some gray paint to get it to
look a little more realistic. It will make your track look a little
nicer... in my opinion...
The foam board is covered with a very thin sheet of plastic. For best
results, peel this plasitc away. Otherwise, you will be gluing & painting
on plastic, not the foam. The foam will hold latex paints, but don't use
the oil based ones... a nasty mess for sure!
It is heat sensitive, but I've not soldered directly above the foam... I've
always had the cork roadbed in place. As always, a little 30-second
experiment will tell you more than fifty posts here will.
Hope all of this helps......
dlm
---------------------------
David P Harris
In addition to all the good suggestions that Dan made, which I totally
agree with, also consider foamcore as a construction material. This is
a thin layer of foam (0.25") covered with paper on each side. It is
available at art supply stores, or you might snag a piece from a local
reatailer, as it is often used for signs, and now Christmas is over,
they may have some surplus signs for you. It is very easy to work with,
cuts easily with an exactoknife. Good for superstructure through quick
buildings.
Cheers,
David
Dan Merkel wrote:
> "wazoo" <wa...@NOSPAMnycap.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:Oc0Jb.35041$q55....@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
>
>>This Christmas, I built an N-scale layout on a 4'x4'x3/4" plywood sheet.
>>It's a sort of a folded-over figure 8, using the Atlas pier set to get the
>>proper elevation for the crossover. So I have (sort of) two concentric
...
Bill Barr
> she might get involved in the construction phase a little with me - maybe
> glue on some lichens and smear some paint on the scenery - but I apparently
> over-estimated the fine motor skills of five year olds, and that didn't
> exactly work out. But we had some fun anyway.
Start with the larger scenery projects like painting and spackling for
rocks/mountains.
> the tunnel lights in sockets, instead of hard-wiring those little
> grain-of-wheat bulbs, so that they're more easily replaced when they burn
> out.
Use LEDs ... you'll die before they do.
> feature? Should I be planning to have the floating rail on the inside side
> of a turn or the outside? Should I plan to solder floaters to floaters and
> captives to captives or should I stagger them? Or does this not matter at
The floating rail goes on the INSIDE of the curve. Also, pre-solder all
track that will make up the curve because soldering track on a curve
after it's laid is a pain.
> Also, I'd like to implement multiple elevations with the 2" foam board
> material I've seen used in a Model Railroad magazine. I've never seen or
Use either the blue or pink, extruded insulation styrofoam. Do not use
the beaded kind found in craft stores or packaging material. However,
the beaded foam does work well for scenery (and it's a nice way to
recycle packaging) and all you need is low-temperature glue and a glue
gun to fix it in place. Cut clean, painted and then weathered with a
dark wash, it makes a decent, quick and dirty stone wall.
> specific type or grade of this material that's the "right" stuff? How would
> I attach something such as the Atlas bridge piers to this material? Will it
Latex Liquid Nails is your best friend. Also, DAP silicone adhesive is
great because it has a long set-up time.
> take a nail, or should I plan on using adhesives? Is it paintable? Will it
> deform very easily if I solder too near to it?
I always pre-paint the foam with some scenic base color appropriate to
the scene (earth brown, sand, dark grey, etc). If you want some instant
scenery, get some of the spray paint that already includes a texture.
Foam is easily cut with a hot wire cutter, so soldering can be very
damaging. However, spackling compound patches up holes, quickly. If you
need to solder track on the foam, use 2 copper heat sinks on the rails
on either side of the joint and place a small piece of aluminum foil
under the joint (shiny side up) to act as a reflector. If you solder
quickly, you will have no problems.
--
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