Precision soldering rail joints (N)? (more info)
Charles A Davis
On Tue, 9 Jan 1996, Charles A Davis wrote:
Use a _very_ hot soldering pencil (similar to the old 'UNGAR' wood
burning tools)
Prepare the rail joint by being sure that the rails in the area to be
soldered are CLEAN, and that the joiner is clean INSIDE.
You want to apply the soldering tool to the rail for as SHORT a time as
possible. Apply the end of a piece of 'rosin core' solder to the rail
end/joint area. With a good HOT iron -- the solder should flow into the
joint almost immediately. As soon as it flows --- remove the soldering
iron/pencil from contact with the rail, and IMMEDIATELY swipe a finger
along the rail, going over the freshly soldered joint (at a speed of
about 2'/sec.) (fast enough that you can feel that you have gone over a
HOT spot, but not so slowly that you feel like you might get burned.)
Ussing a _very_ hot iron, allows you to be fast. Being fast, is what will
allow the plastic ties to NOT get melted.
The "finger swipe" should occur BEFORE the solder has set. The "finger
swipe" will leave a 'smooth solder free' surface (where swiped) on the
track. (I.E. --- swipe the inside edge of the railhead. any
glitches/globs on the outside of the track won't affect a passing wheel)
Chuck D.
Charles A Davis
On Tue, 9 Jan 1996 James....@att.com wrote:
> Pardon my question.... what do you do when you get solder on the top of
> the rail? What will remove it? Thanks!
>
That's the "swipe". As long as the solder is still molten, it will wipe
off with only a 'color' layer left. (That won't even be visible unless
you have 'brass' rail. [HO code 100] but since I've used this with code
70 and code 40, there isn't any reason that you should have problems with
"N".)
Chuck D.
Rich Weyand
>On Tue, 9 Jan 1996, Charles A Davis wrote a description of his method.
My method is somewhat different. I use a solder station with a 700
degree tip. This will stay 700 degrees at all times, turning on and
off as needed, like your furnace. I use two X-acto heat sink clips
and clip them to the rail one tie back in each direction. I apply the
iron tip to the outside of the rail at the crease of the rail joiner
and the rail flange (I use Weller's smallest conical tip) with the
iron angled only about 15-20 degrees up and out from the rail direction.
I apply the solder into this gap, moving the iron back and forth along
the rail direction to heat the entire joiner and spread the solder
uniformly. This takes about two seconds.
No cleanup is necessary! I never get any solder on the railhead or
on the inside of the rail at all. And with the heat sink clips I
never melt any ties.
Rich Weyand | _______ ___,---. ---+_______:_ |Rich Weyand
Weyand Associates| |_N_&_W_| |_N_&_W_| |__|________|_ |TracTronics
Comm Consultants | ooo ooo ~ ooo ooo ~ oOOOO- OOOO=o\ |Model RR Electronics
wey...@mcs.com | http://www.mcs.net/~weyand/ |wey...@mcs.com
nwb...@ix.netcom.com
rail. I keep the tip well tinned and heat the gun before touching the
rail. Using fine (small diameter) solder helps control the amount
applied. I generally apply the hot tip to the rail joint and joiner
(it touches all three), count to 3, and on 3 stroke the solder accross
the joint (on the opposite side of rail flange from the tip) and it's
done. If you are having solder "balling" problems, check that your
solder is rosin core, otherwise you will need to use flux - I find the
liquid water soluable flux available for electronics works well, a
single drop at the joint (apply at the joiner) can do wonders.
For heat sinks, I use the test clips from Radio Shack (and other
sources) that do not have teeth, but are flat on the ends (duck clips?
as opposed to alligator clips?:-) In extreme cases I have used a damp
sponge immediately after soldering - but beware - this is a good way
to create cold solder joints that may look ok, but may (if not will)
cause problems in time.
Be conscious of where your iron/gun is at all times. Plastics can
deform in close proximity to the high heat source. This can be used to
"salvage" a tie close to a joint. Close proximity heating, flex back
to correct position, then damp sponge it if needed.
Good Luck
Nate
nwb...@ix.netcom.com
>...
>Note... Be very sure to remove all solder from inside of rail. Use a file
>to get it all off. If you do not, the bump will cause derailments.
>...
>Regards...Rick Shoup, MMR
Good suggestions. I normally use a half round tapered minifile to
dress up the joint. Every attempt should be made to line up the
inside and top rail surfaces prior to soldering. The remove the least
amount of material needed to attain smooth top and inside rail
surfaces. If you have an NMRA guage, a quick swipe though the joint
can help reveal problems.
Nate