I tried my hand at laying some Atls flex track today. First time
doing so.
I know you have to cut ties off the ends so you can get those
rail joiners to fit on... But now you have a 1/2-1 inch gap.
And the orignal ties that I took out don't fit back in because
the railjoiners make the rail wider so the ties to clip in.
How do I fix this problem?
Help!
Thanks!
Drew
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Take some of the cut off ties and place back under the rails, a
little glue will hold them when you ballast the track.
-----------
Donald
http://members.xoom.com/djkinney/index.html
Drew wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I tried my hand at laying some Atls flex track today. First time
> doing so.
>
> I know you have to cut ties off the ends so you can get those
> rail joiners to fit on... But now you have a 1/2-1 inch gap.
> And the orignal ties that I took out don't fit back in because
> the railjoiners make the rail wider so the ties to clip in.
> How do I fix this problem?
>
> Help!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Drew
>
I have been reading your questions with interest over the past few days.
Keep the questions coming, that is how you learn.
Concerning flex track, let me give you some tips that work great for me.
1 - when flexing track, do not cut the ends even. Leave an offset between the
joiners. There is no need for the joiners to be side by side. By having an
offset, at every joint, especially on curves, you will have one rail with no
joiner, helping to support the joint.
2 - As others have said, just cut off the nubs that represent spikes to side
on the rail joiner.
3 - Save all ties that you might remove. These are used to slide under the
rail wherever you need them. File off the nubs and they slide right in under
the rail without raising the rail.
4 - never cut rail with cutting pliers. Only use rail nips or a Dremel tool.
Drew, email me with a phone number or to get mine, and I will be glad to
talk model railroading with you personally and try to answer your questions. I
am particular to laying flex track that is extremely reliable.
Bob Rule, Jr.
www.Linsjunction.com
www.gatsme.org
You can also "chisel out" a bit of the Atlas ties you cot off to make them
fit.
At one time I believe Atlas sold plain plastic tiels for just this
application.
Don
--
Don Dellmann
don.de...@prodigy.net
http://www.geocities.com/don_dellmann
--
moderator WisMode...@onelist.com
Drew <hookup30...@home.net.invalid> wrote in message
news:0b57e2e4...@usw-ex0103-019.remarq.com...
Good question Drew.
I take the ties that I cut off (sometimes 2-3 ties) and start by scraping
off the track "spike" heads that are molded on. Then I sand the bottoms
of the ties a bit to thin them. Now they should slide under the rail
joiner. Leave some of these cut off ties at full height rather than
sanding them, since the rail joiner doesn't cover the whole length of
rail where you removed ties. You want them to fit snugly.
You can either leave the loose ties alone until you ballast (the glue in
the ballast will anchor those ties) or you can test fit the ties first,
and once you're happy, add a bit of white or carpenters' glue to the tie
bottom before you slide them in place.
Hope this helps you.
Dave
Drew,
Here is how I solve that problem.
After I have laid all my track, I take a small jeweler's flat or 'equal'
file and enlarge the 'slot' between the plastic spikes on the ties. I
use the file to widen and deepen the 'slot' so a track connector will
fit into it. As a way to check if the slot is large enough, I use a
short piece of rail with a track connector on the end of it. Once I see
that the connector will fit flush into the slot between the plastic
spikes I can now install the ties into the track work. Thus filling the
gap.
Once you have painted and ballasted your track, you'll never know the
difference.
Fred Ellis
--
Who do you serve. . . . And who do you trust?
(To e-mail me, remove the X from my address)
Drew
Drew <hookup30...@home.net.invalid> wrote in message
news:0b57e2e4...@usw-ex0103-019.remarq.com...
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Bob May
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