anybody have problems with bachmann e-z track switches?
Evil Satan
I recently purchased 6 switches and have had nothing but trouble with them.
is this standard of bachmann switches???
not just derailments either, poor connections in the wiring, and connectors
and in the rail joiners there is poor conduction of electricity.
is bachmann know for an inferior product????
rathburne
And track is not one of the exceptions......
Evil Satan wrote in message ...
charles kimbrough
nothing but trouble. The N/S has gray road bed.
Paul Newhouse
It sounds like the simple double oval we setup sometimes with EX track.
The switches seemed to deteriorate rather quickly. I'm constantly
fussing with them get the various engines to go through them without
derailing, especially backwards. Tje rivet pin that holds the toggle
rail (?) for the outside rail in the curved section is loose (wobbles)
on both switches. I'm sure taking it apart and reassembling it often
isn't very good for them??
Paul
Evil Satan
, is junk??
what's the best track????
what's the best value track????
what is the best compromise of the two????
"Evil Satan" <sa...@roadrunner.nf.net> wrote in message
news:ak8io1$to$1...@nntp-stjh-01-01.rogers.nf.net...
rathburne
I use Atlas flex trak with cork etc. Not as easy, but no too hard, and less
expensive overall.
Evil Satan wrote in message ...
Roger T & Heather B.
--
"Evil Satan"
> so the stuff with the black road bed...i.e. the stuff I bought is a load
off
> , is junk??
> what's the best track????
> what's the best value track????
> what is the best compromise of the two????
Hand lay your own, like I do. See http://www.islandnet.com/~rogertra/
Cheers
Roger T.
Trainman
typicical Bachmann, i.e., Junk with a capital J.
I have heard the NS (grey roadbed) is not as bad, but still not as good as
most.
Good medium price turnouts can be had from Atlas (the custom line) ones and
Roco.
If you want "top of the line" in completely assembled turnouts, Shinohara,
Walthers (made by Shinohara), Peco or Pilz (hard to find in the US)
Don
--
don.de...@prodigy.net
http://www.geocities.com/don_dellmann
moderator: WisMode...@yahoogroups.com
moderator: MRP...@yahoogroups.com
http://www.yahoogroups.com/group/MRPics
Evil Satan <sa...@roadrunner.nf.net> wrote in message
news:ak91i5$5mq$1...@nntp-stjh-01-01.rogers.nf.net...
Froggy
Yes. Everyone has problems with everything Bachmann makes.
............F>
Roger T & Heather B.
--
<Froggy>
>
> Yes. Everyone has problems with everything Bachmann makes.
Define "Problems".
Most people probably had minor problems with Athearn diesels at some time or
other, no big deal, yet if they have a minor problem with a Bachmann
product it becomes a big deal. What gives?
I have four Bachmann 2-8-0s.
Problems? With one or two the leading tender truck would derail.
Account wiring harness putting a slight upward pressure on the front of the
tender.
Solution, put a large washer under the coal load on all of them.
"Problem" solved.
I have two Bachmann 2-10-0s. Problems? Once again, the leading tender
truck would derail.
Account, same as above.
Solution. Same as above.
I have one Bachmann 2-8-4 (With one more on order)
Problem No.1 Trailing tender truck this time derails in Berger Yard.
Account front of tender fouling rear of cab due to overly sharp curve. The
4-8-2s were ordered for the future GER not the present one.
Solution. Restrict loco from running on Berger Sub. (Prototypical)
Use widest spacing on tender drawbar. (Unrealistic)
Dismantle railway and rebuild this winter with broader curves. (In the
works anyway).
Problem No. 2. Loco is noisy, especially in reverse were it emits a load
squeal.
Solution. None, loco only days old and haven't taken it apart yet.
So there you have it. Nothing really major with these three Bachmann
products..
Now, wanna discuss the Athearn 2-8-2 and 4-6-2? That list is much longer.
:-)
Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.islandnet.com/~rogertra/
TOM
<Froggy> wrote in message news:3d692fae...@news.mindspring.com...
As the old saying goes: "Everybody generalizes!" ... :>))
--
<><><> TOM <><><>
-------------------------
Genet
coal-load? Please! this sounds like it could solve a problem I'm haveing!
Thanks :o))
Gene
"Roger T & Heather B." <roge...@islandnet.com> wrote in message
news:10303052...@news.islandnet.com...
Roger T & Heather B.
--
"Genet" <ge...@videotron.ca> wrote in message
news:odca9.1336$wk7.1...@wagner.videotron.net...
> Roger...could you be a little more precise about the" large washer under
the
> coal-load? Please! this sounds like it could solve a problem I'm haveing!
> Thanks :o))
IIRC, the coal load on both the 2-8-0 and the 2-10-0 is removable. You have
to take the tender body from the chassis to get to the release tab though.
I just put the largest steel washer I could find into the space under the
coal load, tested the loco and tender to see if another washer was required
and reassembled the tender when all works well.
Hint. While you have the tender apart, super glue the nuts that the truck
pivots screw into to the tender chassis. That way, you can remove the
trucks without loosing the nut inside the tender body. Don't forget to
remove the tender pivot screw *before* you super glue the nut in place. :-)
Genet
like a good idea....will do...thanks very much.news:10303147...@news.islandnet.com...
Fred Dabney
>
>
> Define "Problems".
How about consistently not running?
I can't speak for their HO steam, but the diesels have
long since been consigned to the nether reaches.
The worm bearings dry, start chattering and after that
there is no recovery, not really.
I have propped up a few with full-strength STP on the
shaft but that's a temporary fix.
It's intrinsic to the design and for whatever reason
they will not correct it- it could be done by using
an "Oilite" bearing but no chance.
Been there, and like a lot of people I now have
several dummy units.
Fred D.
Bruce Favinger
two On30 2-6-0's. Never had a problem with any of them. Bruce
<Froggy> wrote in message news:3d692fae...@news.mindspring.com...
Froggy
>
><Froggy> wrote in message news:3d692fae...@news.mindspring.com...
>> On Sat, 24 Aug 2002 15:50:26 -0230, "Evil Satan" <sa...@roadrunner.nf.net>
>wrote:
>>
>> Yes. Everyone has problems with everything Bachmann makes.
>>
>> ............F>
>
>As the old saying goes: "Everybody generalizes!" ... :>))
Yes. Generally that is true.
...............F>
Froggy
wrote:
><Froggy>
>
>> Yes. Everyone has problems with everything Bachmann makes.
>
>
>Define "Problems".
Well, the couple of steamers had fewer and more minor problems than the rest of their
stuff, but even they had to have aftermarket fixes to operate such that they were
suitable; as you so eloquently demonstrated yourself.
I rest my case.....................F>
Roger T & Heather B.
--
> >> Yes. Everyone has problems with everything Bachmann makes.
> >
> >
> >Define "Problems".
>
> Well, the couple of steamers had fewer and more minor problems than the
rest of their
> stuff, but even they had to have aftermarket fixes to operate such that
they were
> suitable; as you so eloquently demonstrated yourself.
>
> I rest my case.....................F>
But so do Athearn diesels.
Leaning to one side is/was very common.
Poor pick up due to that metal tab between motor and truck pick ups..
Burrs on the gears.
Over scale hoods.
Metal chassis conducts current on m.u.ed units.
And I'm sure there's more.
And to paraphrase my first post. "Wanna discuss the 2-8-2 and 4-6-2?"
Yet you don't hear people dumping on Athearn as much as they do Bachmann.
Not defending all of Bachmann's product but the one's I have are as good as
anything else.
Froggy
wrote:
>But so do Athearn diesels.
>
>Leaning to one side is/was very common.
IIRC no one asked any questions about Athearn's stuff. Nor did the original poster
ask about any other brand of equipment save Bachmann. I answered his question about
Bachmann. Why is it neccessary to mention Athearn here when the question posed did
not concern itself with Athearn?
Look at this:
Q.) Does anyone else have problems with Bachmann?
A.) Lots of people have problems with Athearn.
Now I ask you, does that make any sense?
Does it even remotely answer the question?
Nooooooooooooo..........
If he wants to know something about Athearn I am quite sure that he is able to ask on
his own.
But he didn't
So why complicate the answer with unwanted information?
Most people have some degree of problem with Bachmann such the product is to some
degree unsatisfactory until such problem is solved. A few people manage to evade
such problems, but, they are few.
.......................F>
Fred Dabney
[have problems]
However, the problems with Athearn diesels, other than the
old overwide hoods can be fixed.
The real problem with Bachmann diesels is one that can't
be fixed, only worked around, and replacing the faulty
gearboxes doesn't fix it, it just postpones it until the
new one fails.
And that doesn't address the fact that many of them are
also crap, cosmetically as well, even more so than
the old wide Athearn units.
The dash8 units look like they were carved from a bar
of soap and left in the rain for a week, for instance.
Athearn's GP7 and 35 are sharp at least.
As I have said, I have no real knowledge of their
steam but from what I read and see, they are pretty
nice models, at least the Spectrum.
But don't judge the rest of the product line from the
Spectrum steam.
And we won't even consider their N scale equipment...
Fred D.
sligoliner
> For ready to use track, Kato is the best.
> I use Atlas flex trak with cork etc. Not as easy, but no too hard, and less
> expensive overall.
Roco and Fleischmann also make ready to use track. The Fleischmann has
for me the most realistic ballast and blends in and joins with
standard Peco Code 100 really well:
http://www.geocities.com/cypana_ie/cy2.jpg
Roco-Line is code 75 ad is similar to the Kato stuff.
Stefan L.
prevent the tender truck from riding up due to the stiff harness betwen
loco and tender.
Stefan
R. Keith Heinsohn <ke...@heinsohn.org> wrote in
news:vbmkmuggpskltqi78...@4ax.com:
> On Sun, 25 Aug 2002 15:37:13 -0700, "Roger T & Heather B." Genet"
>
>>news:odca9.1336$wk7.1...@wagner.videotron.net...
>>
>
>>I just put the largest steel washer I could find into the space under the
>>coal load,
>
> And the purpose of adding weight to the tender is...?
>
>> tested the loco and tender to see if another washer was required and
>> reassembled the tender when all works well.
>
> Tested for what and required for what, please?
>
> ...Keith
>
> Watch it - you're trying my infinite patience.
Roger T & Heather B.
--
> Well if you check Roger's original post then you'll see that it was to
> prevent the tender truck from riding up due to the stiff harness betwen
> loco and tender.
> Stefan
Stefan. You can read! :-)
Full marks for completing the English comprehension test.
Dennis E. Golden
for one -- feel free to correct me if I misstate your views, Andy)
Bachmann's steam is better than their diesel models. In fairness though, I
have to state that I have had no major complaint with the two Bachmann
diesels I do own, the doodlebug and the 44 tonner. They are not nearly as
smooth as my P2Ks or Athearn Genesis F3, but they are certainly useful power
on my RR. Again I understand from Andy (and again, Andy, if I misquote,
yell) that these two are the best of the Bachmann diesels.
I also have to say (hopefully without getting into any horrible arguments
here) that I also have had no trouble with the Athearn Genesis steam aside
from a lack of pulling power.
Den
"Roger T & Heather B." <roge...@islandnet.com> wrote in message
news:10303052...@news.islandnet.com...
TOM
Oh, yeah, NOW he tells me... :<((
Kidding!!! :>))
Throw the horse over the fence, some hay... :>))
<><><> TOM <><><>
-------------------------
David J. Starr
running, good looking model. Runs much better than brass. Like all
plastic steamers, it isn't heavy enough to be an outstanding puller, but
I can live with it. For that matter, even my old cast zamac boiler
Mantua with extra weight ought to pull better than it does.
And the little 44-tonner diesel works well for me. Excellent low
speed performance.
David Starr
Jon Miller
down. Casting metal in general costs a company so much that any metal usage
for the hobby is little. Notice that most (not all) of the engines that
have any type of cast metal come from China!
Andy Harman
<dgo...@warwick.net> wrote:
>Roger, from what I understand on the group (I'm sighting Andy Harmon here
>for one -- feel free to correct me if I misstate your views, Andy)
>Bachmann's steam is better than their diesel models. In fairness though, I
>have to state that I have had no major complaint with the two Bachmann
>diesels I do own, the doodlebug and the 44 tonner. They are not nearly as
>smooth as my P2Ks or Athearn Genesis F3, but they are certainly useful power
>on my RR. Again I understand from Andy (and again, Andy, if I misquote,
>yell) that these two are the best of the Bachmann diesels.
I always kinda liked the early (dual motor) 44-tonners, but I haven't
run any of them enough to wear anything out. I haven't tried any of
the new ones which I understand have a more conventional drive.. nor
have I tried a doodlebug.
Steamwise, I like the 2-8-0 (even though it was built as a generic)
and the Shay. The 4-8-2 is ok, but not as nice as the 2-8-0. The N&W
J is still a big dissapointment.
I have seen the E33 test shot. It was "just" a test shot, but it
didn't blow me away. Railings sagging all over the place, etc... it
might be better than previous offerings but it ain't no Kato.
>I also have to say (hopefully without getting into any horrible arguments
>here) that I also have had no trouble with the Athearn Genesis steam aside
>from a lack of pulling power.
My biggest complaint about the 2-8-2 is the stiff-necked wiring
harness. I had a very early production one which I sold.. not sure
how it may have been improved since then. Mike Brock has made several
very nice models from the Athearn 2-8-2 and 4-6-2, without even taking
them apart!
All that aside, when it comes to plastic steam the ball game is all
over once Proto 2000 steps up. Their Y3 2-8-8-2, USRA 0-8-0, and USRA
0-6-0 completely obliterate all of the other non-brass steam out
there, including anything from Bachmann, Athearn, or Rivarossi.
I'm waiting to see what the PRODUCTION Broadway Ltd. J1e is really
going to look and run like. I've heard a lot of raving about the
sound, but first thing I'm gonna do is turn the sound OFF and see (and
hear) how it runs. And compare it to my Overland J1e. I think
looks-wise, it might be able to stand along side the 4x priced brass
without looking too weak... performance, we'll see.
Andy
----------------------------------------------------
Please reply to aharman at hhcustom dot com
Visit the RPM Web Page at http://www.rpmrail.org
Or my personal site at http://www.hhcustom.com/nspmg
----------------------------------------------------
Andy Harman
<ke...@heinsohn.org> wrote:
>And the purpose of adding weight to the tender is...?
You don't own a Sunset SP 2-10-2 I see... in that case, the purpose
of adding weight would be to keep it from being sucked up into the
nearest air return when the air conditioning kicks on. Secondary
would be keeping it on the track, which it also fails at.
Unfortunately the tender body seems to be soldered together and other
than injecting it with mercury with a hypo needle, there doesn't seem
to be any way to get anything heavier than air inside there.
Froggy
>I'm waiting to see what the PRODUCTION Broadway Ltd. J1e is really
>going to look and run like....... first thing I'm gonna do is turn the sound
>OFF and see (and hear) how it runs. .......... performance, we'll see.
I hope it turns out to be a great success and that they follow it up with a Milwaukee
F7 and S3 class.
..............Although I could do without the sound. Just don't like sound on a model
railroad. I'd rather save the fifty bucks toward more toys.
Roger T & Heather B.
--
"Andy Harman" <
> Unfortunately the tender body seems to be soldered together and other
> than injecting it with mercury with a hypo needle, there doesn't seem
> to be any way to get anything heavier than air inside there.
Andy, have you tried drilling a hole(s) in the bottom of the tender, out of
sight, and trying that approach to inserting weight?
Roger T & Heather B.
--
"Andy Harman" <
> Mike Brock has made several
> very nice models from the Athearn 2-8-2 and 4-6-2, without even taking
> them apart!
Andy,
Do you know if he added feedwater heaters and if so how?
Wouldn't be any photos around would there?
Andy Harman
<roge...@islandnet.com> wrote:
>Do you know if he added feedwater heaters and if so how?
>
>Wouldn't be any photos around would there?
Look in an upcoming issue of RMC... I have some photos but they are
not developed yet. Digitals all came out crap (what else is new).
Andy Harman
<roge...@islandnet.com> wrote:
>Andy, have you tried drilling a hole(s) in the bottom of the tender, out of
>sight, and trying that approach to inserting weight?
Actually I'm leaning toward Ebay........ it's a decent looking loco
but I've never been able to get it to run once around my layout
without the tender derailing. I mean all 4 axles on the groud. It
runs ok otherwise though. I bought it because I thought it looked as
good or better than PSC's SP 2-10-2 at about 40% of the price. I
don't think I missed much with the PSC, but the Sunset is not the
cat's meow either.
Now my Challenger SP 4-10-2... thats another beast entirely. Lovely
loco, runs fabulous... I'd love to have a 2-10-2 of the same caliber.
Fred Dabney
and other
> > than injecting it with mercury with a hypo needle, there
doesn't seem
> > to be any way to get anything heavier than air inside there.
>
> Andy, have you tried drilling a hole(s) in the bottom of the
tender, out of
> sight, and trying that approach to inserting weight?
Or try removing an oil hatch or water hatch, and pouring in
a mix of lead shot and epoxy. I've done that with a tank car
I forgot to put weight in before I glued the tank shell
together...
Fred D.
Kennedy
Gee, why am I not surprised that Roger T. would ask this question.....?
:D
Kennedy
--
-------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ --------------------
Usenet Newsgroup Service
Evil Satan
how much weight should be placed in a car??grams???ounces???
will the heavier cars be harder for the tain to pull
"Bruce Favinger" <bwf...@swbell.net> wrote in message
news:oSfa9.5137$Da4.2252652731@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com...
Roger T & Heather B.
--
"Kennedy
>
> Gee, why am I not surprised that Roger T. would ask this question.....?
>
> :D
Of course.
Dennis E. Golden
much agree with your other assessments.
The old Bachmann steam was terrible. The only way to get them to run well
was to replace the entire mechanism with a Bowser kits.
As I said the doodlebug is OK, but compared to the P1K Budds it's much
noisier.
Haven't run into the Athearn umbilical problem -- but then I may have a
latter run. Also I now have (since layout rebuilding )pretty generous curves
(33 mainline, 28 branch).
Couldn't agree with you more about P2K steam. Only I would say it puts much
of the brass to shame.
And yes, I'm waiting to see a production J-1 myself.
Den
"Andy Harman" <owata...@not.net> wrote in message
news:3d6c2c42....@news.iac.net...
(stuff written by that Golden jerk snipped here)
> I always kinda liked the early (dual motor) 44-tonners, but I haven't
> run any of them enough to wear anything out. I haven't tried any of
> the new ones which I understand have a more conventional drive.. nor
> have I tried a doodlebug.
>
> Steamwise, I like the 2-8-0 (even though it was built as a generic)
> and the Shay. The 4-8-2 is ok, but not as nice as the 2-8-0. The N&W
> J is still a big dissapointment.
>
> I have seen the E33 test shot. It was "just" a test shot, but it
> didn't blow me away. Railings sagging all over the place, etc... it
> might be better than previous offerings but it ain't no Kato.
>
Roger T & Heather B.
--
"Dennis E. Golden"
> As I said the doodlebug is OK, but compared to the P1K Budds it's much
> noisier.
Have to agree here. I've 2 Buds, and RDC3 and a four day old RDC1, both
silky smooth and almost silently.
The doodlebug runs well but is much noisier.
Fred Dabney
problem????
> how much weight should be placed in a car??grams???ounces???
> will the heavier cars be harder for the tain to pull
Yes, then again possibly no. It depends.
Some cars can benefit from added weight. A very light
car in a train of heavy cars, or perhaps more important
stiff-rolling cars can be a problem.
But weight is not all the problem for derailing. Consider
that a warped truck can cause cars to go flopping around
as well. It's not always easy to spot mounted on car.
There is a rule of thumb I use: If a specific car derails
a lot many places, I look at the car first. If many different
cars derail consistently in one place, it's the track.
Warped trucks can happen for different reasons but
if you can find a small sheet of flat glass, place the
trucks on it, and gently press on the center. Also press
on each wheel and see if they depress on one corner
but not the others. If so, replace the truck.
The NMRA has a recommended practice for the various
scales. For HO, they suggest 1 ounce base weight plus
another half ounce per each inch of car length.
Some argue this is too much, and in truth a bit under
that by about 25 percent still seems to work pretty well.
But on our club, we've found that too light is worse than
too heavy, and we try to stay within an ounce of the RP
for best overall performance.
Heavier cars can limit your train length, especially if
you have some of the modern plastic steamers which
all seem to be underpowered for their size.
But what can affect the potential train length is rolling
resistance as much as weight.
From time to time, the subject of wheels comes up, and
others seem to agree that Intermountain or Reboxx
metal wheels in almost any kit's plastic trucks will
roll much more freely, and I can pull almost any loco
out of the club pool and haul twenty cars anywhere on
the layout where I am using those wheels. My eighty
car grain train uses three random "C" truck diesels to
haul it around the layout during our open houses, and
I can get away with two if I pick the engines carefully.
All the cars have IM wheels in Delrin trucks.
Fred D.
Kennedy
I got a second Genesis 2-8-2 from Big Al, it wasn't the model subtype that
was printed on the box. So, instead of sending it back, I was planning to
do some conversions, one of which was putting on the beetle-brow feedwater
heater. Haven't done anything yet. I also need to figure out what to do
about the existing injector piping..... The resulting loco will probably
not be remotely prototypical.