Atlas v. Peco Switches
Evan Borses
I am building a layout that calls for Atlas "standard" manual switches
(Atlas # 2702 and 2703). I have read here that Atlas switches are bad.
My question is, which PECO switch is equivalent to the Atlas one - #6?.
Also, does PECO have a printed catalog or website.
Thanks in advance.
Engl
They do have a web site at
bu...@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu
In article <3291B0...@erols.com>, Evan Borses <ebo...@erols.com> writes:
Atlas might not be as good as PECO, but IMO they are not bad turnouts. My
advice would be to only use the # 6 turnouts if at all possible, becasue they
will look more realistic and minimize derailment. This is true of any # 6s
however.
You might want to use a combination as I did. On the K SF & P, Atlas # 6s were
used in yards, industries, and at some points on the mainline. Where high
speed turnouts were required on the mainline, higher quality turnouts were
used.
Many (certainly not all) on this newsgroup have posted favorable
comments about Atlas turnouts.
The PECO trunouts might also look more realistic.
Cost is the biggest factor. You can purchase Atlas NS turnouts for
about $5.25 through mailorder houses. From the same house you will pay about
$13.00 for a PECO turnout. If you don't need many turnouts, PECCO might be
the best way to go. You will also need to determine the cost of swithch
machines. Again if you have many turnouts, this can be costly.
Good luck with your project.
Jim Budde
K SF & P RR
Alex Schneider
In article <3291B0...@erols.com>, Evan Borses <ebo...@erols.com> wrote:
>I am building a layout that calls for Atlas "standard" manual switches
>(Atlas # 2702 and 2703). I have read here that Atlas switches are bad.
While Peco makes fine switches, I would dispute the description of Atlas
switches as "bad".
1. With the new throwbars which can be removed while the switch is in place,
no competing brand is as easy to install now, motorize later. (Assuming you
want motors under the table). The new throwbars can be ordered separately and
retrofitted to the older switches with riveted throwbars by drilling out the
rivets. If you do not plan to use the Atlas switch machines which mount above
the roadbed, the threaded mounting holes can be cut off and the throwbar
modified to take a Caboose Industries ground throw.
2. They are very durable. I have never had an Atlas switch damaged by roadbed
swelling / contraction, but I have lost two of my few Shinohara switches that
way.
3. They introduce NO block wiring complications.
4. They are cheap and stocked at almost all hobby shops.
On the other hand, the #6 is the only one useable for long-wheelbase engines.
Also if you want contacts for signals, etc., you have to go to another brand
of switch machine.
Alex Schneider
Terry Smith
the Atlas Custom Line switches. They have no mounting for tabletop
switch machines, have even better point/rail mating, and are designed
for under table machines.
Added benefit is that with Atlas, if you are using Atlas flex track (the
best bargain IMHO) the rail heights match up. PECO doesn't mate well
with Atlas flex track - theres about .030" height difference. This will
be noticeable in yards and such.
Mongo
Richard L. Kaye
Certainly it is not worth the price of a trip across the pond,
but if you are in the UK, PECO costs less, even figuring the
exchange, and if you get the VAT back and bring them in under
your duty-free allowance, the difference can be spectacular.
RLK
Tony Polson
Buy by mail order from the UK. You get the VAT (sales tax, 17.5%)
taken off and postage costs are then added. Postage usually costs
about the same as the VAT, so you end up paying the same price as the
advertised retail price (which is always quoted including VAT) in the
UK. And PECO switches (we call them "points") are very reasonably
priced in the UK.
Several UK dealers specialise in worldwide mail order. You can pay by
VISA or MasterCharge in all dealers and additionally by Amex in some.
You get charged in US dollars; the card company converts from pounds
to dollars at a very advantageous rate.
If you need names and addresses please email me.
Regards,
Tony Polson
Haywards Heath, West Sussex, UK
email: to...@polson.demon.co.uk
Fritz Milhaupt
Markolf Gudjons wrote:
>
> Alex Schneider <al...@interaccess.com> wrote:
>
> > [Atlas]
> > On the other hand, the #6 is the only one useable for long-wheelbase engines.
>
> - Mark
Atlas doesn't make any HO switches in either Code 83 or Code 100 larger
than #6.
-fm
71042...@compuserve.com
fmil...@provide.net
* Modeling the Pere Marquette in HO- one loco and car at a time... *
Marshall D Abrams
Terry Smith <mong...@pop3.netaxs.com> wrote:
How does the height of Model Power flex track line up with Atlas
switches?
Andrew Stevenson
Alex Schneider wrote:
>
> Evan Borses <ebo...@erols.com> wrote:
> >I am building a layout that calls for Atlas "standard" manual switches
> >(Atlas # 2702 and 2703). I have read here that Atlas switches are bad.
>
> While Peco makes fine switches, I would dispute the description of Atlas
> switches as "bad".
We have had problems with a batch of Peco switches/turnouts/points
bought
about 6 years ago. On many of these the plastic has started to 'perish'
and the Peco point motors we used are now simply dropping off! Peco
have
declined to comment on the problem.
Incidentally, the Peco point motors are a good idea, clipping to the
bottom
of a point and throwing it by means of a rod which projects through a
small
hole in the tie bar, but need a hell of a current to throw them,
particularly
if you are using the auxiliary switches for controlling frog
polarity/signals
etc. If you're going to be throwing more than one at once (e.g. at
either
side of a crossover) then you may well need a capacitor discharge unit.
I still think Peco are the best looking points readily available on this
side
of the Atlantic.
--
Andrew
Curt Regensberger
I am switching to Peco switches also, can anyone tell me if they have had
any problems using tortise switch machines under pecos.
Curt Regensberger
Terry Flynn
Terry Smith <mong...@pop3.netaxs.com> wrote:
>Alex Schneider wrote:
>>
>> In article <3291B0...@erols.com>, Evan Borses <ebo...@erols.com> wrote:
>> >I am building a layout that calls for Atlas "standard" manual switches
>> >(Atlas # 2702 and 2703). I have read here that Atlas switches are bad.
>>
>> While Peco makes fine switches, I would dispute the description of Atlas
>> switches as "bad"
.
They are cheap, and their appearance reflects this, they have plastic
frogs, which will wear out if used often enough. Short wheelbase
locomotives stall on plastic frogs, so the use of these turnouts is a
false economy.
>> 1. With the new throwbars which can be removed while the switch is in place,
>> no competing brand is as easy to install now, motorize later. (Assuming you
>> want motors under the table). The new throwbars can be ordered separately and
>> retrofitted to the older switches with riveted throwbars by drilling out the
>> rivets. If you do not plan to use the Atlas switch machines which mount above
>> the roadbed, the threaded mounting holes can be cut off and the throwbar
>> modified to take a Caboose Industries ground throw.
>>
>> 2. They are very durable. I have never had an Atlas switch damaged by roadbed
>> swelling / contraction, but I have lost two of my few Shinohara switches that
>> way.
>> 3. They introduce NO block wiring complications.
Ok for DCC, but it means exactly the same amount of wiring and rail
gaps to make things as flexable as the Peco and Shinorhara
alternatives.
>>
>> 4. They are cheap and stocked at almost all hobby shops.
Thats the main reason they sell, because they are cheap.
>> On the other hand, the #6 is the only one useable for long-wheelbase engines.
>> Also if you want contacts for signals, etc., you have to go to another brand
>> of switch machine.
>> Alex Schneider
>Everything Alex says is true, but one more thing needs to be added. Use
>the Atlas Custom Line switches. They have no mounting for tabletop
>switch machines, have even better point/rail mating, and are designed
>for under table machines.
>Added benefit is that with Atlas, if you are using Atlas flex track (the
>best bargain IMHO) the rail heights match up. PECO doesn't mate well
>with Atlas flex track - theres about .030" height difference. This will
>be noticeable in yards and such.
>Mongo
I have never had trouble using peco and atlas flex track together. You
must be comparing Peco code 75 with Atlas code 100. As for Atlas flex
track, a bargin, yes, but it has very coarse rail spikes, or do they
represent rail chairs holding down flat bottomed crane rail. The flex
track is a excellent product for hidden areas of your layout.
I still use 15 year old metal froged peco and Shinorha turnouts. Thats
value for money.
Terry Flynn.