detail painting
JC Lewis
I've a few questions about detail painting I'm hoping to get help with.
First, how do I do a wash on landscaping? What would I use & how would I
mix it?
Would I use a wash on my trains as well?
2nd, what is are good thinners for Floquil paint for airbrushing?
Scenic spray: would a mix of 1:1 water & white glue be good? or?
Thanks
Jim
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Trainman
JC Lewis <jcl...@telus.net> wrote in message
news:7qKbc.2393$Sh4.1082@edtnps84...
> hi folks..
> I've a few questions about detail painting I'm hoping to get help with.
>
> First, how do I do a wash on landscaping? What would I use & how would I
> mix it?
For what? If you're coloring the bare plaster before you put down ground
cover you can use anything you want as long as it's not glossy. I use
"Ceramcoat" acrylics from any craft store, home supply or even Wal-Mart. I
squirt half a dozen different browns and greens on a palette (actually an
AOL CD), Take a cup of water and a soft brush, dip the brush in a color,
spread it on the layout, dip it in water, spread the color around some, dip
it in another color, spread it out, more water etc. etc.
> Would I use a wash on my trains as well?
>
I weather my freight cars the same way, with the addition of using a hair
dryer afterwards to even it out and prevent water spots.
Others weather with chalks, paints, whatever. There's no ONE way to do
almost anything in Model Railroading.
> 2nd, what is are good thinners for Floquil paint for airbrushing?
Well, to contradict my last statement about "one way", if you're talking
traditional solvent based Floquil, your choices are Floquil Diosol, Floquil
Diosol or Floquil Diosol. (or whatever they call it now that it's more
"environnmentally friendly")
>
> Scenic spray: would a mix of 1:1 water & white glue be good? or?
>
For what purpose? For ballasting I use a 1:1 mix dribbled on, not sprayed
(after wetting the ballast down first with a spray of straight water and a
few drops of "wetting agent", detergent or alcohol)
For putting down ground cover (grass, dirt, etc, )I just use white glue full
strength, brushed out with a good wet brush (similar to my painting
technique described above) and sprinkle on the cover material.
> Thanks
> Jim
You're welcome
Don
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wanna...@cogeco.cant
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>
> For what? If you're coloring the bare plaster before you put down ground
> cover you can use anything you want as long as it's not glossy. I use
> "Ceramcoat" acrylics from any craft store, home supply or even Wal-Mart.
I
> squirt half a dozen different browns and greens on a palette (actually an
> AOL CD), Take a cup of water and a soft brush, dip the brush in a color,
> spread it on the layout, dip it in water, spread the color around some,
dip
> it in another color, spread it out, more water etc. etc.
Finally someone found a use for those free AOL CDs.
Another good use for them is small "frisbees"
>
> > Would I use a wash on my trains as well?
> >
> I weather my freight cars the same way, with the addition of using a hair
> dryer afterwards to even it out and prevent water spots.
Depends on the era as to wether or not you weather your locomotives. I would
say don't weather steam locos as during the days of Steam all railroads
employed "Engine Wipers". An Engine Wiper's job was just that. When the
locomotive came in after it's days run, they wiped it down and removed all
the road grim. Some RR still did that with early deisel. Now no one seems to
care, as long as the loco runs.
> Others weather with chalks, paints, whatever. There's no ONE way to do
> almost anything in Model Railroading.
>
> > 2nd, what is are good thinners for Floquil paint for airbrushing?
>
> Well, to contradict my last statement about "one way", if you're talking
> traditional solvent based Floquil, your choices are Floquil Diosol,
Floquil
> Diosol or Floquil Diosol. (or whatever they call it now that it's more
> "environnmentally friendly")
>
> > Scenic spray: would a mix of 1:1 water & white glue be good? or?
> >
> For what purpose? For ballasting I use a 1:1 mix dribbled on, not sprayed
> (after wetting the ballast down first with a spray of straight water and a
> few drops of "wetting agent", detergent or alcohol)
>
I would concur here, do not spray and glue around the tracks, it would take
you much longer to remove the glue from the tracks.
> For putting down ground cover (grass, dirt, etc, )I just use white glue
full
> strength, brushed out with a good wet brush (similar to my painting
> technique described above) and sprinkle on the cover material.
>
For ground cover etc. if it is away from the tracks, our club uses the
following method.
1. Paint the plaster surface with a color similar to the ground covering.
2. Sprinkle the ground cover on the wet paint.
3. Spray the watery white glue (sometimes 1:1 sometimes 2/3 water) over the
ground cover until it is well soaked.
4. While glue is still wet, add some ground cover to any areas you think
need it.
--
Will
N Scale - Credit Valley Railway
www.muskokacomputes.com/CVR_Home.htm
JC Lewis
Your help is much appreciated. I like the idea of dabbing the paint
with the water, I will try that out. As well as the ground cover idea.
I have done my landscape with foam & filled in areas with plaster of
paris. I plan to paint over all with a flat white latex, as I have some
areas from my first attempt colored in weird browns & greens. Trial &
error, eh?,,, One of the best things I enjoy about this hobby is you can
always change it & improve it. I was planning using the hobby paints too,
they are inexpensive & easy to clean up.
I was saving my floquil paints for weathering my rolling stock. But not
sure yet if I can get away with the hobby paints sprayed on the tracks &
ties... mostly concerned here if the track cleaner will eventually remove
the paint. I know the floquil will stand up.
I have some artists chalk too, I was saving for weathering buildings.
What can I put overtop once I apply the chalk to keep it on?
Some interesting knowledge about the train wipers I did not know. I
have my era kinda mixed around, as I have a few diesels and a couple of
steam I will be running.
AOL CD's.... great ideas,,, I took two & glued them together with shinny
side out, drilled a little hole in them & hung them up outside for
'wind-spinners'. My "burnt coasters made it there as well,,, after I got
bored of using them for Frisbees.. (LOL).
Thanks again,
I'm open for any more ideas.
Cheers
Jim
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"JC Lewis" <jcl...@telus.net> wrote in message
news:7qKbc.2393$Sh4.1082@edtnps84...
Mark Newton
> Depends on the era as to wether or not you weather your locomotives.
> I would say don't weather steam locos as during the days of Steam all
> railroads employed "Engine Wipers". An Engine Wiper's job was just
> that. When the locomotive came in after it's days run, they wiped it
> down and removed all the road grim.
I would say check out some photos of a prototype railroad similar in
style/era/location to what you're modelling, and let them be your guide
for weathering. Even during the heyday of steam locomotives, some of
them were quite heavily weathered. Even allowing for the efforts of
engine wipers, locos in service have subtle weathering, and
deterioration of their finish.
Trainman
> Hey, Thanks Don & Will
>
> Your help is much appreciated. I like the idea of dabbing the paint
> with the water, I will try that out. As well as the ground cover idea.
>
> I have done my landscape with foam & filled in areas with plaster of
> paris. I plan to paint over all with a flat white latex, as I have some
> areas from my first attempt colored in weird browns & greens. Trial &
> error, eh?,,, One of the best things I enjoy about this hobby is you can
> always change it & improve it. I was planning using the hobby paints too,
> they are inexpensive & easy to clean up.
I wouldn't paint it white, I'd stick with some brown or green. If fact,
it's too late once the plaster is down, but I like to squirt some
"ceramcoat" into the plaster itself when I mix it so IT has some color right
in it. That way, if there's any chips or wear (and eventually there WILL
be), you don'[t have ugly "white spots" showing through your scenery.
>
> I was saving my floquil paints for weathering my rolling stock. But
not
> sure yet if I can get away with the hobby paints sprayed on the tracks &
> ties... mostly concerned here if the track cleaner will eventually remove
> the paint. I know the floquil will stand up.
>
> I have some artists chalk too, I was saving for weathering buildings.
> What can I put overtop once I apply the chalk to keep it on?
Dullcoat or any flat spray. However, be forewarned that the flat topcoat
tends to 'wash out" your weathering efforts with chalk, so you may have to
apply several layers, or weather much more heavily than you think you should
before spraying the finish coat. That's one reason why I like weathering
with the acrylics, as it's more "what you see is what you get".
>
> Some interesting knowledge about the train wipers I did not know. I
> have my era kinda mixed around, as I have a few diesels and a couple of
> steam I will be running.
>
> AOL CD's.... great ideas,,, I took two & glued them together with
shinny
> side out, drilled a little hole in them & hung them up outside for
> 'wind-spinners'. My "burnt coasters made it there as well,,, after I got
> bored of using them for Frisbees.. (LOL).
>
> Thanks again,
> I'm open for any more ideas.
>
> Cheers
> Jim
They also make great "scarecrows" in the garden to keep the pests away from
your vegetables.
wanna...@cogeco.cant
would put a touch of brown in there. Paint it with flat pale brown, closer
to earth tones than white.
As Mark pointed out, Steam Engines did get a slick weathering. Mine I leave
flat black with just the lettering weathered.
--
Will
N Scale - Credit Valley Railway
www.muskokacomputes.com/CVR_Home.htm
>
Ernie Fisch
<mark_new...@optusnet.com.au> wrote: 2000
>
> I would say check out some photos of a prototype railroad similar in
> style/era/location to what you're modelling, and let them be your guide
> for weathering. Even during the heyday of steam locomotives, some of
> them were quite heavily weathered. Even allowing for the efforts of
> engine wipers, locos in service have subtle weathering, and
> deterioration of their finish.
Good advice from Mark. Passenger locos tended to be treated better
(much better) than freight locos. Even with well tended locos paint
tends to oxidize and get duller, especially in sunny climes. They
also collect dings and bumps which start to rust. The kind of water
they used and the country they ran in had a large effect.
--
ernie fisch