GP38 and 38-2 visual differences?
_Brian Banna~
Other than the latches on the forward battery boxes, the sight glass
on the right side rear door and the angled roof box. What if any are
the other differences between the GP38 and GP38-2.
Is it possible to take a Athearn GP38-2, make the minor changes with
Cannon parts and turn it into a GP38? It looks like it can, but i would
like some feedback from those of you in the know out there.
Thanks.
Later
Brian
bba...@sedona.itel.com
Chandler, AZ
Matthew J. Frahm
_Brian Banna~ <bba...@sedona.intel.com> writes:
>Other than the latches on the forward battery boxes, the sight glass
>on the right side rear door and the angled roof box. What if any are
>the other differences between the GP38 and GP38-2.
I believe the length of the roof panel which contains the dynamic brakes
is different. That is, where the joint between it and the radiator
section is differs.
The whole door arrangement below the radiators on both sides is different
from the GP38-2.
>Is it possible to take a Athearn GP38-2, make the minor changes with
>Cannon parts and turn it into a GP38? It looks like it can, but i would
>like some feedback from those of you in the know out there.
Looks like you can.
--
Matthew J. Frahm____________________________mailto:mfr...@visi.com
Stillwater, Minnesota / Winona, Minnesota http://www.visi.com/~mfrahm/
"It would take a modern Diogenes with a powerful lamp to find anyone today who
could vote if receipt of gov't largesse were a disqualification." M&RFriedman
Leonello Pesce
_Brian Banna~ wrote:
>
> Other than the latches on the forward battery boxes, the sight glass
> on the right side rear door and the angled roof box. What if any are
> the other differences between the GP38 and GP38-2.
>
> Cannon parts and turn it into a GP38? It looks like it can, but i would
> like some feedback from those of you in the know out there.
>
What about the old Atlas, now ConCor GP-38? True the fuel tank
is bad, but maybe you can put the body on an Athearn frame.
Just an idea.
Leo
--
===================================================================
Leonello Pesce HiT Software
Tech Support 1975 Hamilton Ave
l...@hit.com http://www.hit.com Suite 1
(408) 369-7293 voice San Jose, CA 95125
(408) 369-7299 fax (408) 369-7290 main
===================================================================
David Ryujiro Olsen
Anyone know where to get a Con-Cor/Atlas GP38 or GP40 shell by
itself? Walthers only lists the complete locomotive.
Dave Olsen
______________________________________________________________________________
The Unofficial MARC Railfan and Modeler's Page:
http://www.duke.edu/~dro1/marc.html
______________________________________________________________________________
Andy Harman
_Brian Banna~ <bba...@sedona.intel.com> wrote:
>Other than the latches on the forward battery boxes, the sight glass
>on the right side rear door and the angled roof box. What if any are
>the other differences between the GP38 and GP38-2.
Early GP38-2's were nearly identical to the straight GP38 except for
the "classic" dash 2 features: battery box offset on the fireman's
side; overhang on cab roof; welded plate around the cab windows;
knockout rings above the # boards on the long hood end; sight glass;
Blomberg-M trucks with rubber springs and dampening struts (unless
regular Blombergs were specified, or part of a trade-in). Also the
inertial hatch is slightly smaller on the dash 2 and has the two
little "blades" on the front.
Later GP38-2's moved the fans closer together, and the radiator panel
became a single section - this is the version Athearn's model
represents which is quite common.
Even later than that, the radiators were changed to the vertical
ribbed type that are now in use on all new EMD's; Cannon makes this
part to convert the Athearn. Also at some point units began shipping
from the factory with angled paper air filter boxes (another Cannon
part), but I can't tell you exactly when. Southern's entire fleet
(now NS) has been retrofitted with angled PAF, with a few exceptions,
so it's hard to tell when the factory made the change.
>Is it possible to take a Athearn GP38-2, make the minor changes with
>Cannon parts and turn it into a GP38? It looks like it can, but i would
>like some feedback from those of you in the know out there.
Been there, done that, twice. I did not change the doors under the
radiators, which _are_ different, but I addressed most everything
else. To backdate an Athearn GP38-2, you will need to replace the
cab, nose, and sub-base with Cannon 35-line; replace the long hood end
with Cannon 4-line; replace the blower housing, inertial screens, and
inertial hatch with appropriate Cannon parts; possibly rebuild the
pilots depending on the time frame - pre dash-2 GP38's as built had
full footboards. Plug the sight glass. And the HARDEST part (the
part that nobody who writes articles on them ever seems to want to do,
in fact they "forget" to mention it) is to remove the single panel
radiator and replace it with a shortened Cannon GP40 radiator - remove
one double panel from each half of the panel... and then, build a new
fan hatch and reposition the fans in the correct spacing. You may
also want to replace the fans with the top mounted style (button top)
because these changed _around_ the time of the dash 2 line, but a bit
before. You can also replace the electrical equipment door and hatch
with the Cannon parts. Check your prototype.
This job is about to get easier - Plano will offer a standard GP38 fan
hatch in etched stainless steel soon. Don't know if Cannon will ever
do the radiators, but they are not too difficult of a kitbash from the
GP40 panels.
As to the doors - I don't like to cut out a handful of doors to
replace with Cannon.... I'm kind of "all or nothing" about this. My
next GP38 project will be done this way.
Andy
Larry Z. Daily
Leonello Pesce <l...@hit.com> wrote:
><snip>
>What about the old Atlas, now ConCor GP-38? True the fuel tank
>is bad, but maybe you can put the body on an Athearn frame.
>Just an idea.
>Leo
>--
>===================================================================
>Leonello Pesce HiT Software
>Tech Support 1975 Hamilton Ave
>l...@hit.com http://www.hit.com Suite 1
>(408) 369-7293 voice San Jose, CA 95125
>(408) 369-7299 fax (408) 369-7290 main
>===================================================================
You can, I've found, put the ConCor shell oin an Athearn frame. The
GP-40-2 is correct for a long tank version, GP-50 for the short tank.
The ConCor shell is generally ok, but the cab steps aren't there -
there's just a big hunk of plastic. To get it even reasonably right
will require replacing the ConCor cab with Cannon parts. I'm in the
middle of that project right now.
Regards,
Larry Z. Daily
lda...@osf1.gmu.edu
F. DABNEY
Leonello Pesce (l...@hit.com) wrote:
: _Brian Banna~ wrote:
: >
: > Other than the latches on the forward battery boxes, the sight glass
: > on the right side rear door and the angled roof box. What if any are
: > the other differences between the GP38 and GP38-2.
: > Is it possible to take a Athearn GP38-2, make the minor changes with
: > Cannon parts and turn it into a GP38? It looks like it can, but i would
: > like some feedback from those of you in the know out there.
You can convert almost anything to anything else, depending on how much
effort you are willing to expend and how fussy you are about the result.
I remember some years ago, someone had a magazine article on converting a
GP-7 to an RS-11. Pictures didn't look half bad to me, but I've never
seen an RS-11 aside from models.
: What about the old Atlas, now ConCor GP-38? True the fuel tank
: is bad, but maybe you can put the body on an Athearn frame.
After this thread popped up this afternoon, I looked at an Atlas/Roco
GP-38 and an Athearn GP-38-2. I wouldn't attempt to make one into the
other, but I've read often enough about folks who have taken a dash 2
model and back dated it.
And yes, you can fit the Roco shell on the Athearn dash 2 chassis. It
gives you a choice of fuel tank capacity that way.
: Just an idea.
Not a bad one, either.
Aside from the terminally fussy folk like Andy Harman, who probably wish
they could put Cannon grilles on the prototype and make them look better,
the Roco shell isn't all that bad.
I've always seen it as an odd combination: Really nice tooling, as good
as anyone else's models including Kato, combined with some boneheaded
design decisions such as the one to make a one piece shell- which in turn
precluded doors on the cabs, no steps on the sub bases. And of course
those truly loathsome fuel tank blobs. And the totally wrong trucks on
the SD units.
But depending on how much work you want to do, the Roco shells can be
married to an Athearn drive and the major errors on the steps, etc can be
corrected either by replacing the cab/nose/sub base with Cannon parts or
at a less extensive modification one can do something to get the steps,
and the brake lever detailing. Painted, detailed, and at a few feet and
moving on a layout, they'll look pretty darned good.
For most of us, after the first flush of pride at doing a good model or
the first dip of gloom that the model isn't up to our own standards, few
of us follow our models around the layout with our nose up the radiator
fans. After a time, our standards of "good enough" may go up or down,
but for heaven's sake, do something while you're waiting.
I was just chided for sitting around and bitching rather than building
something, and the guy had a valid point in his argument.
Sorry- got carried away. But if I wanted to do a GP-38 or GP-40, I'd
start with parts from Cannon, Roco via Atlas or Con Cor and an Athearn
frame- drive to choice from Athearn, A-line or even an Overland chassis.
Fred D.
Watching the action from BNSF MP 1112, El Paso sub
David & Nicole Kraft
Model Railroader did an article on building a CP Rail GP 38 from an
Athearn GP 38-2 in the January 1991 issue.
_Brian Banna~ <bba...@sedona.intel.com> wrote:
>Other than the latches on the forward battery boxes, the sight glass
>on the right side rear door and the angled roof box. What if any are
>the other differences between the GP38 and GP38-2.
>Is it possible to take a Athearn GP38-2, make the minor changes with
>Cannon parts and turn it into a GP38? It looks like it can, but i would
>like some feedback from those of you in the know out there.
>Thanks.
Andy Harman
fda...@nmsu.edu (F. DABNEY) wrote:
>I remember some years ago, someone had a magazine article on converting a
>GP-7 to an RS-11. Pictures didn't look half bad to me, but I've never
>seen an RS-11 aside from models.
I remember that article... had a similar thought years ago of
converting an Athearn GP7 into an RS11. One guy _did_ build an SD9
out of many bits and pieces of Athearn GP7, got the first coat of
primer on it when Athearn announced their SD9... Craziest early
kitbash of mine was making a GP30 from an Athearn GP35, without
benefit of even a GP30 roof piece. Did the whole thing with Plastruct
and a lot of green putty. Pretty nasty looking - scrapped it out a
long time ago to use the hood end for another hi-nose, but I wish I
had kept it to show the kind of stuff we used to do, when all there
was was Athearn, and even the Atlas/Roco GP38 was pie in the sky.
>After this thread popped up this afternoon, I looked at an Atlas/Roco
>GP-38 and an Athearn GP-38-2. I wouldn't attempt to make one into the
>other, but I've read often enough about folks who have taken a dash 2
>model and back dated it.
The only thing that is really difficult is the radiators and fans, and
rebuilding the doors under them (which I didn't do).
>Aside from the terminally fussy folk like Andy Harman, who probably wish
>they could put Cannon grilles on the prototype and make them look better,
>the Roco shell isn't all that bad.
The Roco shell could be Cannonized quite nicely - I did this with an
SD35 a while back and got decent results... since then, a bunch more
Cannon parts have become available to do even more with it. But for
the GP38, I stuck with the Athearn shell for the crisper overall
detail, especially in the dynamic brake/paper filter section. Also,
the Atlas model is going to need the Athearn dynamic section anyway
since most GP38's had paper air filters.
>I've always seen it as an odd combination: Really nice tooling, as good
>as anyone else's models including Kato, combined with some boneheaded
>design decisions such as the one to make a one piece shell- which in turn
>precluded doors on the cabs, no steps on the sub bases. And of course
>those truly loathsome fuel tank blobs. And the totally wrong trucks on
>the SD units.
A few other one-piece die compromises are evident, particularly on the
SD35's inertial hatch which looks like a "Chunky" bar. I have a
vision of a totally Cannonized SD35, but I may end up scratching the
thing instead. The only part I will end up salvaging off the Roco
shell will be the radiator screens themselves - they are very good and
not as fine as Cannon, but pretty durn accurate. Cannon's GP35
radiators do not have the right pattern for an SD35 at all, and Gordon
is pretty ho-hum about ever doing the SD35 part... which would also
enable modeling of phase Id and phase II GP35's.
>But depending on how much work you want to do, the Roco shells can be
>married to an Athearn drive and the major errors on the steps, etc can be
>corrected either by replacing the cab/nose/sub base with Cannon parts or
>at a less extensive modification one can do something to get the steps,
>and the brake lever detailing. Painted, detailed, and at a few feet and
>moving on a layout, they'll look pretty darned good.
My favorite conversion of a Roco shell still brings a lot of positive
feedback from folks who see it - a DT&I GP40. I removed the dynamic
brakes from the Roco shell, wore out a double-cut mill file reshaping
(and shortening) the fuel tank, added some basic details, and
scratchbuilt handrails out of brass wire. It's pretty respectable and
requires a close look to see that it's the Roco in disguise. But I
wouldn't do it again, too many nice Cannon parts to work from.
Oh yeah, in addition to backdating two GP38's from Athearn (an N&W
GP38AC and an NS/SR GP38), I have also done a GP40 (N&W) from a
GP40-2, and back in '89 or so I made a halfway decent SD40 out of an
Athearn SD40-2 - got it finished just in time for Kato's announcement
of their HO SD40...
Now I should tell you about the Penn Central GP38-2 I built out of two
Athearn GP35's. In 1975. I made it for a friend that I have long
since lost contact with so I don't know it's fate, but it is the only
such conversion I have ever heard of.
>For most of us, after the first flush of pride at doing a good model or
>the first dip of gloom that the model isn't up to our own standards, few
>of us follow our models around the layout with our nose up the radiator
>fans. After a time, our standards of "good enough" may go up or down,
>but for heaven's sake, do something while you're waiting.
I dunno... even years after the fact, I still get a certain
narcissistic thrill at watching my models from track level,
photographing them, and taking pride in the fact that some of them
have sat alongside some pretty well-known, well respected modelers'
stuff and maybe haven't been quite as good, but didn't shrivel up and
crawl away either <g>.
>I was just chided for sitting around and bitching rather than building
>something, and the guy had a valid point in his argument.
The implication though, was that all you did was bitch about this and
that and never built anything. Heck, I dunno about you but I've
probably thrown away more parts than that guy has ever used. I'm not
afraid to take chances and cut things - heck I've got a rare Kato SD40
drive sawed in half on my bench right now - but I always appreciate a
part that not only makes my life easier, but vastly improves the final
result. Such as the new Cannon long hood ends - not only do they save
me the trouble of modifying the 35-line ends, they look better than if
I had done the mods myself.
>Sorry- got carried away. But if I wanted to do a GP-38 or GP-40, I'd
>start with parts from Cannon, Roco via Atlas or Con Cor and an Athearn
>frame- drive to choice from Athearn, A-line or even an Overland chassis.
Overland made a "GP40-2" chassis that fits the Athearn GP38/40/50 that
has a large fuel tank and regular Blombergs. Not bad, not bad at all
- used this on my N&W GP38AC. But this drive has been dropped from
their lineup (will probably come back someday, with brass fuel tank).
The GP38-2 and GP50 drives have those dorky, undersized looking
Blomberg-M trucks (see my GP38-2 in RMC). I'm really glad I went back
to Athearn trucks on my 4-axle EMD's, the difference is amazing.
Andy
DougTblood
In article <530mit$v...@news.one.net>, aha...@one.net (Andy Harman)
writes:
>Later GP38-2's moved the fans closer together, and the radiator panel
>became a single section - this is the version Athearn's model
>represents which is quite common.
According to the Contempory Diesel Spotters guide, the first production
38-2's had the same radiator/fan spacing as the 38; it was changed
fairly early in production. I do know that Penn Central, who never met a
38-2 they didn't like ( they bought a ton of them, or more accurately many
tons of them), only had units with shorter radiator/closer fan setup. IE
exactly like the Athearn, down to the shorty fuel tank...
>Even later than that, the radiators were changed to the vertical
>ribbed type that are now in use on all new EMD's; Cannon makes this
>part to convert the Athearn. Also at some point units began shipping
>from the factory with angled paper air filter boxes (another Cannon
>part), but I can't tell you exactly when. Southern's entire fleet
>(now NS) has been retrofitted with angled PAF, with a few exceptions,
>so it's hard to tell when the factory made the change.
>
>
During 1976, the following changes were made to the 38-2; angled
paper air filters, 88in nose w/ anti climber, and the corrugated radiator
grilles. Again, according to the CDSG, the first units w/ the angled
filter boxes
were Long Island Railroad's, they also had the 88in nose and anti climber.
They had the waffle style grilles, rather than the corrugated style. By
1977,
the GP38-2's had all three changes incorporated in production...
After you use all those cannon parts Andy, just about the only Atlas
parts are the walkway and the radiator grilles, the fans and the dynamic
brakes, right?
DougT
Andy Harman
dougt...@aol.com (DougTblood) wrote:
>According to the Contempory Diesel Spotters guide, the first production
>38-2's had the same radiator/fan spacing as the 38; it was changed
>fairly early in production.
The early fan spacing actually lasted for quite some time, possibly as
late as 1976 in the case of D&H GP39-2's (which I would assume
followed the same progression as the GP38-2's).
>I do know that Penn Central, who never met a
>38-2 they didn't like ( they bought a ton of them, or more accurately many
>tons of them), only had units with shorter radiator/closer fan setup. IE
>exactly like the Athearn, down to the shorty fuel tank...
Are you sure? I thought PC had about every variation including the
early split version. It has been too long unfortunately and I don't
have any good PC references in front of me. PC had over 500 GP38's of
various phase and dash, and bought them continuously over a 5-6 year
period as I recall. That should have covered all the major variations
quite nicely. The 8100's (many of which are still running) are a
ringer for the Athearn, but I think the lower numbered 8000's are
split radiator. GP38 numbering started way down at 7600, so I'm not
sure when the transition to Dash 2 occurred. Also wondering if there
weren't some GP38AC's sandwiched in there. The proof will be in my
slides of the PC taken in the mid 1970's, I'm sure I can find examples
of most variations.
>After you use all those cannon parts Andy, just about the only Atlas
>parts are the walkway and the radiator grilles, the fans and the dynamic
>brakes, right?
The fans and dynamics are not up to snuff, and the walkway isn't
either. That's why I start with the Athearn shell and just let the
door thing slide, because the whole model is much cleaner looking
overall. I make GP38 radiators by removing a section from the Cannon
GP40 radiators... Gordon may eventually do the GP38 style though.
Andy
James D Thompson
Andy Harman wrote:
>
> dougt...@aol.com (DougTblood) wrote:
>
> >According to the Contempory Diesel Spotters guide, the first production
> >38-2's had the same radiator/fan spacing as the 38; it was changed
> >fairly early in production.
>
> The early fan spacing actually lasted for quite some time, possibly as
> late as 1976 in the case of D&H GP39-2's (which I would assume
> followed the same progression as the GP38-2's).
Not quite. EMD used the old GP38/39 radiator for the first few months
of 1972, but had introduced the shorter, one-panel rad by the end of the
year. When the first GP39-2 was built in 1974, EMD used the old
two-panel
rad to support the extra 300 hp. In 1977, EMD started using the new one-
panel rad on both the 38 and the 39.
As for the difference between the GP38 and the GP38-2, I still stand by
the fact that dynamic brake hatch ended in line with the tall
engine-room
doors on the 38, but extended past the last tall door toward the
radiator
on all GP38-2's, even the ones with the old two-panel radiator.
David Thompson
Larry Z. Daily
aha...@one.net (Andy Harman) wrote:
><snip>
>The Roco shell could be Cannonized quite nicely - I did this with an
>SD35 a while back and got decent results... since then, a bunch more
>Cannon parts have become available to do even more with it. But for
>the GP38, I stuck with the Athearn shell for the crisper overall
>detail, especially in the dynamic brake/paper filter section. Also,
>the Atlas model is going to need the Athearn dynamic section anyway
>since most GP38's had paper air filters.
><snip>
Andy,
Is the Roco shell the same as the Atlas/ConCor shell? If so, what
mechanism did you put under it? I've got the ConCor SD-35 and
everything under the running boards looks completely wrong...
Regards,
Larry
DougTblood
In article <53a01t$l...@news.one.net>, aha...@one.net (Andy Harman)
writes:
>>According to the Contempory Diesel Spotters guide, the first production
>>38-2's had the same radiator/fan spacing as the 38; it was changed
>>fairly early in production.
>
>The early fan spacing actually lasted for quite some time, possibly as
>late as 1976 in the case of D&H GP39-2's (which I would assume
>followed the same progression as the GP38-2's).
Apples and oranges, my friend. The Penn Central Power book has a photo
of 7942 ( third unit of PC's initial order of GP38-2's) and it has the
single
panel waffle radiator grille. There some minor differences from the
Athearn
model; fuel filler required a cutout in the frame and there were only two
latches on the sub base doors under the cab and they had the old style
B Blombergs on them. You're right about the GP39-2's, they kept the
two panel radiators until 1977; the D&H 7600's were probably the last
units built this way given the low order rate for that model. When the
ATSF
bought GP39-2 in '77 they had the 88in nose/anti climber and the
corrugated
style single panel radiator grilles, as wellas the prime mover moved back
a three feet under the hood.
>>I do know that Penn Central, who never met a
>>38-2 they didn't like ( they bought a ton of them, or more accurately
many
>>tons of them), only had units with shorter radiator/closer fan setup. IE
>>exactly like the Athearn, down to the shorty fuel tank...
>
>Are you sure? I thought PC had about every variation including the
>early split version. It has been too long unfortunately and I don't
>have any good PC references in front of me. PC had over 500 GP38's of
>various phase and dash, and bought them continuously over a 5-6 year
>period as I recall. That should have covered all the major variations
>quite nicely. The 8100's (many of which are still running) are a
>ringer for the Athearn, but I think the lower numbered 8000's are
>split radiator. GP38 numbering started way down at 7600, so I'm not
>sure when the transition to Dash 2 occurred. Also wondering if there
>weren't some GP38AC's sandwiched in there. The proof will be in my
>slides of the PC taken in the mid 1970's, I'm sure I can find examples
>of most variations.
PC GP38's 7655-7799 Jun-Nov 1969; 7800-7824 nov 1969; 7825-7867
May-Jun 1970; 7868-7939 Jan--Mar 1971.
PC GP38-2's 7940-8039 May- Aug 1972; 8040-8153 Jan-Mar 1973;
8154-8162 Oct 1973.
CR GP38-2's 8163-8180 Jun 1977; 8181-8255 May-Sept 1978; 8256-8281
Jun-Jul 1979.
No AC's, although I can't imagine why not for the life of me.
>>After you use all those cannon parts Andy, just about the only Atlas
>>parts are the walkway and the radiator grilles, the fans and the dynamic
>>brakes, right?
>
>The fans and dynamics are not up to snuff, and the walkway isn't
>either. That's why I start with the Athearn shell and just let the
>door thing slide, because the whole model is much cleaner looking
>overall. I make GP38 radiators by removing a section from the Cannon
>GP40 radiators... Gordon may eventually do the GP38 style though.
Looking at the PC book, you're right about the D-B's. The PC GP38's
had the short D-B blister/paper air filter rather than the chop the
fairing
and the stuff the filter box in, like the Maine Central and Chessie units
did. Not starting w/ a Atlas unit is much easier and saves the hassle
of screwing with that damn frame.....
DougT
Andy Harman
dougt...@aol.com (DougTblood) wrote:
>B Blombergs on them. You're right about the GP39-2's, they kept the
>two panel radiators until 1977; the D&H 7600's were probably the last
>units built this way given the low order rate for that model.
I remember seeing the 7600's brand new with the stacks still capped in
the spring or summer of '76, and photographing them. Over the years
the memory gets fuzzy, and somewhere along the way I assumed they had
single panel radiators because by that time all the other new 38 power
(come to think of it I shot NdeM GP38-2's in the same spot a few
months earlier) already had single panels. When I was going through
my old slides a while back and stumbled on 7606 with the 2-panel
radiator, it threw the old time-zone setting off a bit <g>.
>PC GP38's 7655-7799 Jun-Nov 1969; 7800-7824 nov 1969; 7825-7867
>May-Jun 1970; 7868-7939 Jan--Mar 1971.
>PC GP38-2's 7940-8039 May- Aug 1972; 8040-8153 Jan-Mar 1973;
>8154-8162 Oct 1973.
>CR GP38-2's 8163-8180 Jun 1977; 8181-8255 May-Sept 1978; 8256-8281
>Jun-Jul 1979.
This is what I was looking for. Any idea why they didn't start with
7600 or 7601? Something else there? Or planned renumbering that
never happened? N&W did something like this with their SD40-2's; the
first batch (hi-nose) of 11 units immediately followed the SD40's, and
were numbered from 1625-1635. The SD40's ran from 1580 to 1624, and
immediately followed the SD35's (1500-1579). N&W bought a second
order of SD40-2's (low nose) numbered 1636-1652 in the summer of of
'74. Then later in '74 when they bought another block of SD40-2's,
for some reason they started them off at #6073... the intention being
to renumber all SD40's into that series starting with #1580 --> #6000.
It never happened. In fact, all of the units in question (a few
retirements aside) are still in service on the NS 22 years later, with
all the same numbers they were born with. AFAIK there is virtually no
visual difference between #1652 and #6073, built only 5-6 months
apart.
>No AC's, although I can't imagine why not for the life of me.
The AC was a transitional model between the GP38 and GP38-2, but I
believe it was still optional, i.e. GP38's with DC generators were
still being built simultaneously. I could be wrong though. N&W's
fleet of GP38's are all AC's, and as far as anyone can document, all
alike. They were merged into Southern's vast fleet of 38's, which
while not as large as PC's, appears to have more variety (including
the AC, and the 2-panel dash 2).
> Looking at the PC book, you're right about the D-B's. The PC GP38's
>had the short D-B blister/paper air filter rather than the chop the
>fairing and the stuff the filter box in, like the Maine Central and Chessie units
>did. Not starting w/ a Atlas unit is much easier and saves the hassle
>of screwing with that damn frame.....
Most of Southern's early GP38's were built without PAF and had them
added later giving the chopped off appearance. Also, Cannon's angled
filter box represents a factory dash 2 box. Both the square box and
the angled box had smaller (more square) versions probably built in
various RR shops. Particularly strange to see a 1969 GP38 with
chopped off d/b and a modern angled PAF box crammed into a relatively
small space. I shortened a Cannon box for my model of the NS 2746 in
it's 1994 appearance, but upon viewing broadside photos of similar
units, I didn't shorten it enough. It looks ok though.
Andy
Andy Harman
lda...@osf1.gmu.edu (Larry Z. Daily) wrote:
>Is the Roco shell the same as the Atlas/ConCor shell?
Yes.
>If so, what mechanism did you put under it? I've got the ConCor SD-35 and
>everything under the running boards looks completely wrong...
You are correct, everything below the running boards IS completely
wrong. The trucks are too big, the fuel tank is too small, and a
laughable representation at that. I used a shortened Kato SD40 drive
for my N&W 1567, which represents a late production SD35 with the
low-brake Flexicoils - the same "clean" looking trucks that the Kato
SD40 comes with. You could probably accomplish the same thing with
Athearn gearboxes, a shortened RPP SD40 frame, and DA's low brake
Flexicoil sideframes. My next SD35 model will have even more
Cannonization (several more parts have been released since I did the
old one), fans replaced, and will be an early version with the
high-brake cast-iron Flexicoils... which are readily available in fine
form, on a fine mechanism, with the right wheelbase, on the Proto 2000
SD7. The only thing that needs to be changed is the fuel tank, and
since it is plastic, it's just a matter of popping it off and doing
some fitting to get a shortened Kato SD40 tank to fit underneath.
Andy
Larry Z. Daily
aha...@one.net (Andy Harman) wrote:
> My next SD35 model will have even more
>Cannonization (several more parts have been released since I did the
>old one), fans replaced, and will be an early version with the
>high-brake cast-iron Flexicoils... which are readily available in fine
>form, on a fine mechanism, with the right wheelbase, on the Proto 2000
>SD7. The only thing that needs to be changed is the fuel tank, and
>since it is plastic, it's just a matter of popping it off and doing
>some fitting to get a shortened Kato SD40 tank to fit underneath.
Andy,
Interesting notion - I need to see exactly which verion the C&O had.
I've been looking for a reason to buy one of the Proto 2000 SD-7's,
but the C&O never owned any.
Regards,
Larry
DougTblood
In article <53i3sp$2...@news.one.net>, aha...@one.net (Andy Harman)
writes:
>dougt...@aol.com (DougTblood) wrote:
>
>>B Blombergs on them. You're right about the GP39-2's, they kept the
>>two panel radiators until 1977; the D&H 7600's were probably the last
>>units built this way given the low order rate for that model.
>
>I remember seeing the 7600's brand new with the stacks still capped in
>the spring or summer of '76, and photographing them. Over the years
>the memory gets fuzzy, and somewhere along the way I assumed they had
>single panel radiators because by that time all the other new 38 power
>(come to think of it I shot NdeM GP38-2's in the same spot a few
>months earlier) already had single panels. When I was going through
>my old slides a while back and stumbled on 7606 with the 2-panel
>radiator, it threw the old time-zone setting off a bit <g>.
More's the pity that they didn't go to the single panel radiators earlier,
it would make modeling the D&H '39-2's easier. I built one from a Atlas
GP38 and ignored the sub-base door and cobbled together a more proper
D-B hatch using bits from a SD40-2 hatch; I recently upgraded it some
more, adding a cannon dust collector hatch, smokey valley handrails,
cal scale 5 chime nathan horn, and custom finishing ditch lights for that
true guilford look. It's not bad looking except for the underframe :^(.
I've
also done a ex Reading GP39-2 using a combination of Athearn GP40
and GP38-2 shells, ignoring the radiator anomaly completely. This too
looks pretty good and most people don't notice the error ( the paint job
helps, Reading Green with D&H paint outs on the diamond logo's as well
as proper detailing).
>
>>PC GP38's 7655-7799 Jun-Nov 1969; 7800-7824 nov 1969; 7825-7867
>>May-Jun 1970; 7868-7939 Jan--Mar 1971.
>
>This is what I was looking for. Any idea why they didn't start with
>7600 or 7601? Something else there? Or planned renumbering that
>never happened?
7600-7674 were RS11's ( ERROR Alert, I should have said 7675-7799)
7800-8199 was a real hodge podge of DS44, S12's, a couple of VO 1000's,
RS12's. I guess they weren' t worried about how the numbers would look..
>>No AC's, although I can't imagine why not for the life of me.
>
>The AC was a transitional model between the GP38 and GP38-2, but I
>believe it was still optional, i.e. GP38's with DC generators were
>still being built simultaneously. I could be wrong though. N&W's
>fleet of GP38's are all AC's, and as far as anyone can document, all
>alike. They were merged into Southern's vast fleet of 38's, which
>while not as large as PC's, appears to have more variety (including
>the AC, and the 2-panel dash 2).
Figuring that PC loved the GP38 so much they'd take a few AC's just
grins. Check out the new technology and all that. You're right, they built
both regular and AC's at the same time.
DougT
jimnic...@gmail.com
> Other than the latches on the forward battery boxes, the sight glass
> on the right side rear door and the angled roof box. What if any are
> the other differences between the GP38 and GP38-2.
>
> Is it possible to take a Athearn GP38-2, make the minor changes with
> Cannon parts and turn it into a GP38? It looks like it can, but i would
> like some feedback from those of you in the know out there.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Later
>
> Brian
> bba...@sedona.itel.com
> Chandler, AZ
Jim
Andre
You do realise that you are responding to an almost 20 year old message
right?
Andre
Christopher A. Lee
wrote:
>On Wednesday, October 2, 1996 2:00:00 AM UTC-5, _Brian Banna~ wrote:
1996?
Modellers don't want all their locomotives to be exactly the same.
I don't model modern stuff, and all my stock is kit-built. All but one
of the locomotives has been altered to look like ones in old
photographs.