Air Brush and weathering
Rob
I am about to start the (Scary) weathering process after reading many books
and accumulating some old worthless locos to practice on.
Anyone have any opinions of the best air brush for the job, single vs.
double action, and the best paints?
Thanks in advance
Rob
René
I, of course, don't entirely agree with Keith. I agree it is better to
practise with a single action airbrush but most people master their airbrush
quickly enough and want a double action airbrush.
Keith is also right about the brand you choose. I have had several different
airbrushes. The one I have now is the best I had so far. It is the Revell
Germany Master airbrush. It is originaly a Vega. The one I had before this
one was a Paasche VL. Maybe this is one of the best general purpose
airbrushes you can buy. I used it for several years with total satisfaction.
Hope this helps.
René,
The Netherlands.
http://www.geocities.com/vietnammodeling
"R. Keith Heinsohn" <ke...@heinsohn.org> schreef in bericht
news:ve63ru82uude7h15u...@4ax.com...
> Opinions? Absolutely. For every two responses you'll get three
> opinions. Airbrush people are among the most fanatic people here, each
> with their own (wrong?) opinions about which one to buy.
> So here's mine: For the beginner, get a single action brush. As for
> brand, to the beginner, brand is irrelevant.
>
> ...Keith
>
> Everything you know is wrong, so ask me.
>
Fred Dabney
> opinions. Airbrush people are among the most fanatic people
here, each
> with their own (wrong?) opinions about which one to buy.
> So here's mine: For the beginner, get a single action brush. As
for
> brand, to the beginner, brand is irrelevant.
I'm pretty much in agreement, save that for a beginner you
want neither the cheapest nor the most elaborate airbrush.
The only thing I'd add is that for weathering, a fine pattern
model is better. Some models like the Paasche come in
different patterns, so check for that when you buy.
For small scales, you might never need anything larger
for any work.
Fred D.
Kevin Brant
cheaper one, single action. The reason I like it is the number of heards
available for it, and they are not all that expensive. Anyways, just keep
trying, there is nothing another coat of paint can cover up. Also,
remember, the airbrush can be used for more than weathering.
And one of these days, when I think I have mastered my single action, I will
purchase a double action.
|/
|\EVIN
"Rob" <robert-k...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:3b1s9.3182$qM2.1131@sccrnsc02...
Roger T & Heather B.
> >I am about to start the (Scary) weathering process after reading many
books
> >and accumulating some old worthless locos to practice on.
> >Anyone have any opinions of the best air brush for the job, single vs.
> >double action, and the best paints?
Airbrush? We don't use no stinkin' airbrush.
Just have a look at my photo album, no airbrush weathering there.
Cheers
Roger T.
http://www.islandnet.com/~rogertra/
Trainman
Roger T & Heather B. <roge...@highspeedplus.com> wrote in message
news:10350656...@news.islandnet.com...
I have had the best results with Cermacoat acrylics, LOTS of water, a soft
brush and a hair dryer.
Don
--
don.de...@prodigy.net
http://www.geocities.com/don_dellmann
moderator: WisMode...@yahoogroups.com
moderator: MRP...@yahoogroups.com
http://www.yahoogroups.com/group/MRPics
Roger T & Heather B.
> I have had the best results with Cermacoat acrylics, LOTS of water, a soft
> brush and a hair dryer.
>
> Don
I use many things for weathering, whatever works. For steam and diesels
it's usually a combination of weathering washes and when they are dry, going
over the loco with soft brush and eyeshadow, dry brush paint, coloured
pencils and anything else I can think of at the time.
Freight cars generally follow the above though I try for a dusty look for
western and south western cars and a dirty water streaked look for my home
road, Canadian and north, north eastern U.S. cars.
Of course, the real trick to weathering is NOT to slavishly copy what you
see in the comics, but then, that goes for any other things you may read in
the magazines.
I subscribe to the use your eyes (Look at photographs and the prototype) and
don't model other model railways, model life.
Too many model railways look as though they are models of other model
railways and not of life.
TOM
<><><> TOM <><><>
-------------------------
"R. Keith Heinsohn" <ke...@heinsohn.org> wrote in message
news:ve63ru82uude7h15u...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 18 Oct 2002 23:54:39 GMT, "Rob" <robert-k...@attbi.com>
> wrote:
>
> Opinions? Absolutely. For every two responses you'll get three
> opinions. Airbrush people are among the most fanatic people here, each
> with their own (wrong?) opinions about which one to buy.
> So here's mine: For the beginner, get a single action brush. As for
> brand, to the beginner, brand is irrelevant.
>
TOM
> brush and a hair dryer.
>
> Don
Ceramcoat always sounds like "comatose" to me... :>))
<><><> TOM <><><>
-------------------------
Tony Burzio
> I am about to start the (Scary) weathering process
As to colors, I start with a light overcoat of
the water based color "dirt". Mud, I found, was
too yellow. This will make the colors on
your car look like they have been fading
for a long while. I then use two other
colors, SP lettering grey along the bottom
(to simulate mud), and then tarnished black
along the roofline (this is more for steam
era- early diesel). For you guys with eastern
rust buckets, the best rust I have found so
far is an acrylic found at a craft store
FW transparent acrylic artists ink (it comes in
an old fashioned ink well) in "antelope brown".
If you put a small dot along the roof line,
and use your finger to blend it downward, it
looks just like a rusty spot is bleeding down
the car. You can get patches of rust by
using a blotting method. Try it, it's great!
Tony Burzio
San DIego, CA
Rich
I'm going to stay out of the airbrush discussion. You might also try the
dry brush treatment too. Chalks work pretty good for me and then when
I think I have it right, give it a dull coat to seal it. Dull coat will
dull out weathering so give it just a bit more than you think then dull
it. Dry brushing will accent the raised areas of the loco but don't over
due it.
Just my 3 cents
Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK!"
Registered Linux User 691590
cat
<ke...@heinsohn.org> miaoued:
>On Fri, 18 Oct 2002 23:54:39 GMT, "Rob" <robert-k...@attbi.com>
>wrote:
>
>Opinions? Absolutely. For every two responses you'll get three
>opinions. Airbrush people are among the most fanatic people here, each
>with their own (wrong?) opinions about which one to buy.
>So here's mine: For the beginner, get a single action brush. As for
>brand, to the beginner, brand is irrelevant.
The cheapest double action I know of is $20 at Harbor Freight.
It isn't bad and is a good starter brush.
cat
Pierre Fidoux
I have no airbrush and a friend has offered to lend me his and his oxygen tank.
Pierre
Kevin Brant
find out waht works bests for you. In my case, I used a combination of
airbrush, drybrush, washes, and powders. It all depends on the effect I am
looking for.
|/
|\EVIN
http://www.storm.ca/~brantkg/trains/index.htm
"Rob" <robert-k...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:3b1s9.3182$qM2.1131@sccrnsc02...
Genet
with any kind of petroleum based or flammable liquid!!!!
"TOM" <tom...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:08os9.180988$S32.12...@news2.west.cox.net...
Rob
Rob
"Kevin Brant" <bra...@storm.ca> wrote in message
news:aoue41$sm1$1...@news.storm.ca...
Railfan
> Useing oxygen is definately not a good idea...especially if useing paint
> with any kind of petroleum based or flammable liquid!!!!
This should probably be expanded to explain why - such a combination can be
extremely flammable.
Bob Boudreau
Canada
Genet
apparent source of ignition (such as a spark or open flame)......something
as simple as vaseline or 3-in-1 oil comeing into contact with pure oxygen
can self-ignite.
"Railfan" <"railfan "@ NO SPAM canada.com> wrote in message
news:zjCs9.1035$kf.1...@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...
Steve Caple
> Useing oxygen is definately not a good idea...especially if useing paint
> with any kind of petroleum based or flammable liquid!!!!
He may have just meant he would be using an air tank, rather than oxygen
tank. But no doubt safer than sorry to warn him about extreme
combustibility in a high O2 level environment. Remember astronauts Grissom
et al.
--
Steve
Big Fork & Diehl RR
* Simulate Prototypicality! *
cat
<pierre...@hotmail.com> miaoued:
>Why not ? Is it more difficult ?
>
>I have no airbrush and a friend has offered to lend me his and his oxygen tank.
The more oxygen in a given space the easier it is for a fire
or explosion to happen. Even the slightest ember will blaze up into
spectacular life and all it would take is a small spark, even from
static electricity to start a disaster. Far safer is to use a CO2 tank
and keep the place ventilated.
cat
Alan Gilchrist
@cox.net says...
> > I have had the best results with Cermacoat acrylics, LOTS of water, a soft
> > brush and a hair dryer.
> >
> > Don
>
> Ceramcoat always sounds like "comatose" to me... :>))
>
> <><><> TOM <><><>
Well, TOM's been "comatose" for a long time now... :-)
-=[ Alan ]=-
Alan Gilchrist
c...@consultant.com says...
> On Sun, 20 Oct 2002 13:11:36 GMT, Pierre Fidoux
> <pierre...@hotmail.com> miaoued:
>
> >Why not ? Is it more difficult ?
> >
> >I have no airbrush and a friend has offered to lend me his and his oxygen tank.
>
> The more oxygen in a given space the easier it is for a fire
"Dead Space" in this case....