Weathering freight cars
Joe Goodrich
an air brush. I'm not sure how much to thin the paint or what areas I should
paint. If there are other ways to weather please send them to me thanks
joe
Buckwheat
Joe Goodrich <j...@innernet.net> wrote in message
news:8lada...@enews3.newsguy.com...
Go look at real trains and real train pictures. Just find a picture that
looks good and try to copy the dirt pattern and color. I find that extra
thinning works good with Floquil colors. Thin about 40% thinner/ 60% paint.
Double action airbrush helps too.
Happy modeling
John W Nehrich
to airbrush the insides of steel gons and hoppers. (No, this isn't so
crazy, as check out the prototype photo at:
http://www.union.rpi.edu/railroad/images/rolling-stock/Rolling-stock-intro.html
(under the gon section). - John Nehrich
Ernie Fisch
2000
> Please send me some ideas ways to do it etc for weathering freight cars with
> an air brush. I'm not sure how much to thin the paint or what areas I should
> paint. If there are other ways to weather please send them to me thanks
I thin the paint way down. The idea is not to cover in one or two
passes but
to make many passes. That way you can feather the weathering (nice
alliter-
ation there).
ernie fisch
JR
Finscale Railroader magazine. The last three issues which are online had a
very good series on airbrushing.
JR
"Joe Goodrich" <j...@innernet.net> wrote in message
news:8lada...@enews3.newsguy.com...
> Please send me some ideas ways to do it etc for weathering freight cars
with
> an air brush. I'm not sure how much to thin the paint or what areas I
should
> paint. If there are other ways to weather please send them to me
thanks
> joe
>
>
JR
painting freight cars. They have a weathering section in there that is real
good too. Not positive of the title though.
"R. Keith Heinsohn" <ke...@heinsohn.org> wrote in message
news:5e9mns03looem9ja1...@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 23 Jul 2000 00:30:11 -0600, "JR" <rom...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >Go to www.finescalerr.com
> >
> >Finscale Railroader magazine. The last three issues which are online had
a
> >very good series on airbrushing.
>
> Great info, thank YOU, JR. They're printing even as I type.
> ...Keith
> --
> e-mail: ke...@heinsohn.org Santa Clara, CA.
>
> I'm a cynic, agreed, but I'd like to be thought of as an optimistic
> cynic. The glass is half-full, but the contents are unfit to drink.
Robert
> THere is another really good book by Model Railroader. I think it is
called
> painting freight cars. They have a weathering section in there that is
real
> good too. Not positive of the title though.
I think it's "Painting and Weathering Railroad Models" by Jeff Wilson.
Bob
Dave Grund
see a weathering job done with paint that actually didn't LOOK like paint.
Go to your local art supply store and buy a set of pastel chalks. Then take a
1/4" paint brush and cut off almost the entire length of the bristles, till only
about 1/8 of it's original length is left. 'Scrub' the modified brush along the
length of the appropriate color chalk you plan on using, this 'powders' the
chalk and also loads up the brush with your color. Try experimenting first with
greys and rust colors, you won't believe how your trains 'magically' start
looking like the real thing, and how the chalks bring the details.
Several modellers recommend sealing your finished models with Dullcote. I again
do NOT, it ruins the finish in my opinion, and washes out all your work. I find
if you handle your trains carefully you really don't loose too much of your
work, if any at all. :)
One of the nicest features of this is not only is it the best looking method of
making your roster look like the real McCoy, if you don't like the finished
product, just get out a little soap and water and BOOM, your back where you
started, unlike airbrushing, which you could easily ruin a beautiful paint job.
One last thing, I almost always do ONE extremely thin wash of rust color
vertically down the sides of my models BEFORE using the pastel chalks. It must
by very thin (your not actually trying to 'paint' the model).
If you know what your doing, you can get a real good 'hard use/peeled paint'
effect by using a thinner based paint (i.e. not water based) and actually
letting some of the thinner 'eat away' at your paint, adding some very
believable weathering, then loading up the ate away parts with alot of the
chalk, but this takes a steady hand and a good eye. I would try it on a 'throw
away' car first.
I have a reputation as having the most realistically weathered cars most Model
RR's have ever seen, and they always want to know my 'secret', which I'm glad to
share. While I don't poo poo ANYBODY'S way of modelling, I can't personally
recommend weathing with paint. It always looks way to fake or to heavily done.
Grundman
Bob Young Jr.
your way but never had the nerve to dirty up a $100 engine.
Thanks...
Bob Young Jr
http://members.tripod.com/byoungjr
"Dave Grund" <grun...@iswest.com> wrote in message
news:397FA223...@iswest.com...
Bob May
of a detail work. You really need to do all of them in order to get a
good job done. Dust a bit and then do some detail work and finally
finish up with dusting again. I use paints so thin that they are
basically the throwout from cleaning a brush. That allows for a
gentle reaching of what is desired for a finish of the particular
weathering job.
--
Bob May
Access1 has gone Chapter 7 so I don't know how long my website is
going to last.
Bob May
Dennis Golden
weathering with chalks as well. I've also used a dry brush technique with paints for
a more permenate finish. The trick here is to brush in the same direction as rain
water ect. would run dirt down the car sides.
Having said this, let me hedge a say that I have used an airbrush for the following
limited weathering effects:
1) To simulate steam engine soot on top of the car.
2) To spray a very very dilute wash of the car's basic color to simulate fading
lettering.
3) To bounce a thin wash of a mud color up onto the lower areas of the car.
Some of the best weathering techniques are those written up by the great John Allen
way back in Dec. 1955 -- Jan.1956 MR.
Den
Dave Grund
I don't currently, but I think I might try to do just that. Might as well put my
money where my mouth is, right? : )
I'll see what I can do with a friends scanner and get back to the group with the
info in thefuture...
Grundman
"Bob Young Jr." wrote:
> Dave...do you have any pictures of your work? I have thought about doing it
> your way but never had the nerve to dirty up a $100 engine.
>
> Thanks...
>
> Bob Young Jr
> http://members.tripod.com/byoungjr
>
> "Dave Grund" <grun...@iswest.com> wrote in message
> news:397FA223...@iswest.com...
Jim Six
> I personally don't recommend weathering trains with an airbrush. I have
yet to
> see a weathering job done with paint that actually didn't LOOK like paint.
I have to strongly disagree. I will let my weathering speak for me. Check
out the following. All were weathered 100-percent with paint. I dislike
weathering with anything else.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=205020&a=1595032
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=205020&a=1594527
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=205020&a=1594599
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=205020&a=1728290
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=205020&a=1580362
Show me non-paint weathering that is better.
Jim Six
Visit my model railroad PHOTOPOINT website at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=205020&Auth=false
Sean S.
>I have to strongly disagree. I will let my weathering speak for me. Check
>out the following. All were weathered 100-percent with paint. I dislike
>weathering with anything else.
Jim,
As many of us know, your reputation for being an excellent modeler speaks for
itself... the pictures are just a bonus.
I really don't think chalks or paint are "right" or "wrong" in themselves...
it's the finished product that counts. If two people can use different
techniques and both end up with realistic-looking models... there's really no
problem in my eyes...
Tim O'Connor
> I have to strongly disagree. I will let my weathering speak for me. Check
> out the following. All were weathered 100-percent with paint. I dislike
> weathering with anything else.
I agree with Jim -- chalks rarely produce the effect I want, and they
tend to disappear when you try to "fix" them with overspray. On the
other hand, I do like dry pigments -- they are far "stickier" than
chalk and can be added to carriers like alcohol or water. They're
great for weathering highlights on trucks, couplers, gondola and
hopper interiors, stuff like that. But I use an airbrush and various
washes with paints, or dry brushing, about 99% of the time. As Jim
notes, removal of washes (or even paints) can produce great results.
I often use a sanding stick to clean the white lettering on car sides
so that the letters are bright against a filthy car side. This effect
is called "chalking" and is very common on prototype cars. The top
layer of paint used to letter the cars will "chalk" or flake off,
leaving clean paint showing.
Joseph P.
> I agree with Jim -- chalks rarely produce the effect I want, and they
> tend to disappear when you try to "fix" them with overspray. On the
> other hand, I do like dry pigments -- they are far "stickier" than
I also like using dry pigments especially for metallics but I haven't
been able to find them recently. Any suggestion as to a source?
Jim Six
I agree with you. I prefer paints because that's what works best for me.
On the other hand I have seen some mighty beautiful models weathered with
chalks. I look forward to seeing pictures or finished models of others.
Y'all keep up the good work,
Jim Six
Visit my model railroad PHOTOPOINT website at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=205020&Auth=false
"Sean S." <sean...@aol.comnojunk> wrote in message
news:20000731234906...@ng-ca1.aol.com...
> >
> >I have to strongly disagree. I will let my weathering speak for me.
Check
> >out the following. All were weathered 100-percent with paint. I dislike
> >weathering with anything else.
>
Joseph P.
> > I also like using dry pigments especially for metallics but I
haven't
> > been able to find them recently. Any suggestion as to a source?
>
Are you talking about the Doc O'Brien's Weathering Powders? I thought
these were powdered chalks/pastels. Are these actually dry pigments?
Don Dellmann
Tim O'Connor <timoc...@mediaone.net> wrote in message
news:39877950...@mediaone.net...
> "Joseph P." wrote:
> >
> > > I agree with Jim -- chalks rarely produce the effect I want, and they
> > > tend to disappear when you try to "fix" them with overspray. On the
> > > other hand, I do like dry pigments -- they are far "stickier" than
> >
> > I also like using dry pigments especially for metallics but I
haven't
> > been able to find them recently. Any suggestion as to a source?
>
> I bought several boxes from Micro-Mark. They're very cheap.
You could also try a good art supply store. We have one here called
"Artsist & Display Supply" that's a veritable "gold mine" for art boards,
paints, brushes, airbrushes, inks, etc. There should be something similar
in most cities.
Don
--
Don Dellmann
don.de...@prodigy.net
http://www.geocities.com/don_dellmann
--
moderator WisMode...@egroups.com