Hanwei V-42 WWII Combat Dagger Reproduction
None
Hanwei V-42 WWII Combat Dagger Reproduction
Anyone handle this knife ?
What are the blade and handle materials ?
Is it strictly a display knife ?
I like the price !!
Gunner Asch
Steel and leather, with a brass guard. Now its unknown if its good
steel, and decent well cured leather.
This knife has few uses. Letter opener. Baloney slicer. Melon
sampler....the usual. And of course, being double edged..is a felony
to carry in most states. Not all..but most.
Why would you want a single purpose knife of dubious quality?
Or is it simply the "cool factor"?
If you want something with a hell of a lot more utility, a "cool
factor" and about the same price or less...
http://www.ontarioknife.com/specplus_pg1.html
http://www.ontarioknife.com/freedomfighter.html
Slightly more money..
http://www.swampratknives.com/knives.html
Slightly less or the same
http://www.ndsproducts.com/muela.html (excellent steel btw..)
Take a long look at MI-90058 (near the bottom)
Gunner
"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.
Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner
Greyangel
news:k85bn1557qoaiv323...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 18:28:09 -0500, None <so...@some.com> wrote:
> >http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=KH2124
> >Hanwei V-42 WWII Combat Dagger Reproduction
> >Anyone handle this knife ?
> >What are the blade and handle materials ?
> >Is it strictly a display knife ?
> >I like the price !!
> Steel and leather, with a brass guard. Now its unknown if its good
> steel, and decent well cured leather.
> This knife has few uses. Letter opener. Baloney slicer. Melon
> sampler....the usual. And of course, being double edged..is a felony
> to carry in most states. Not all..but most.
> Why would you want a single purpose knife of dubious quality?
> Or is it simply the "cool factor"?
If you are a collector you aren't likely to EDC every knife you own. Stuff
like that is fun to play with. Doesn't need to be sensible.
>
> If you want something with a hell of a lot more utility, a "cool
> factor" and about the same price or less...
>
> http://www.ontarioknife.com/specplus_pg1.html
> http://www.ontarioknife.com/freedomfighter.html
Now if I was planning to actually BUY a knife this looks like the place!
Good steel, useful designs (at first glance anyway) and "cool factor".
>
> Slightly more money..
>
> http://www.swampratknives.com/knives.html
but what are they made of?
>
> Slightly less or the same
> http://www.ndsproducts.com/muela.html (excellent steel btw..)
> Take a long look at MI-90058 (near the bottom)
> Gunner
Now what the hell is Moly Vanadium 440???! Never heard of it. I've got
some Vanadium stainless kitchen knives that we never use for anything but
cutting bread. Dull as hell but I've never set about to put an edge on them
to see if they *could* be any good.
GA
Gunner Asch
<greynosp...@comcast.net> wrote:
>"Gunner Asch" <gun...@lightspeed.net> wrote in message
>news:k85bn1557qoaiv323...@4ax.com...
>> On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 18:28:09 -0500, None <so...@some.com> wrote:
>> >http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=KH2124
>> >Hanwei V-42 WWII Combat Dagger Reproduction
>> >Anyone handle this knife ?
>> >What are the blade and handle materials ?
>> >Is it strictly a display knife ?
>> >I like the price !!
>
>> Steel and leather, with a brass guard. Now its unknown if its good
>> steel, and decent well cured leather.
>> This knife has few uses. Letter opener. Baloney slicer. Melon
>> sampler....the usual. And of course, being double edged..is a felony
>> to carry in most states. Not all..but most.
>> Why would you want a single purpose knife of dubious quality?
>> Or is it simply the "cool factor"?
>
>If you are a collector you aren't likely to EDC every knife you own. Stuff
>like that is fun to play with. Doesn't need to be sensible.
>
Like Matchbox cars.
>>
>> If you want something with a hell of a lot more utility, a "cool
>> factor" and about the same price or less...
>>
>> http://www.ontarioknife.com/specplus_pg1.html
>> http://www.ontarioknife.com/freedomfighter.html
>
>Now if I was planning to actually BUY a knife this looks like the place!
>Good steel, useful designs (at first glance anyway) and "cool factor".
>
>>
>> Slightly more money..
>>
>> http://www.swampratknives.com/knives.html
>
>but what are they made of?
1050 or better.
>
>>
>> Slightly less or the same
>> http://www.ndsproducts.com/muela.html (excellent steel btw..)
>> Take a long look at MI-90058 (near the bottom)
>> Gunner
>
>Now what the hell is Moly Vanadium 440???! Never heard of it. I've got
>some Vanadium stainless kitchen knives that we never use for anything but
>cutting bread. Dull as hell but I've never set about to put an edge on them
>to see if they *could* be any good.
>
>GA
>
440 Chrome Moly with a fair amount of vanadium in the melt. Same stuff
they use for razor blades. Your knives are "stainless", which is the
reason you cant get an edge on it. Most kitchen knife stainless is the
wrong type to make knives out of. The steel smears, rather than
sharpens. Muela knives use a type of high carbon steel, that has a
high vanadium content..are considered semi-stainless...and sharpen to
an edge you can slice falling hairs with. I own a number of them. They
will sharpen to scary sharp. And hold the edge for a long period of
time, even sheathed and sitting in the vault. But they will rust if
not taken care of over a long period of time.
Not badly..but they will rust.
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1024
Muela is a Spanish knife maker...really good shit, Maynard. Some of
the grips are a bit odd, some fit like they were molded to your hand
http://www.aceros-de-hispania.com/muela-knives.htm
Just a heads up.
Canuck In Denver
news:u5WdnY45Soq...@comcast.com:
> "Gunner Asch" <gun...@lightspeed.net> wrote in message
> news:k85bn1557qoaiv323...@4ax.com...
>> On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 18:28:09 -0500, None <so...@some.com> wrote:
>> >http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=KH2124
>> >Hanwei V-42 WWII Combat Dagger Reproduction
>> >Anyone handle this knife ?
>> >What are the blade and handle materials ?
>> >Is it strictly a display knife ?
>> >I like the price !!
Hanwei is one of the brands of CAS Iberia http://casiberia.com They offer
some good quality and some show, and they tell you if it is functional or
display. I've had one of their swords for over 10 years, nice bit of
work.
From what I remember they have a good rep in the medieval recreation
groups for their combat grade or functional products.
--
Canuck In Denver
canuck_in_denver@.yahoo.com
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
- Benjamin Franklin.
Offbreed
> Most kitchen knife stainless is the
> wrong type to make knives out of. The steel smears, rather than
> sharpens.
Which is why I burnish them now, instead of grind.
A chromed socket extender works nice.
Greyangel
>
> Like Matchbox cars.
As good an analogy as anything.
> >> Slightly less or the same
> >> http://www.ndsproducts.com/muela.html (excellent steel btw..)
> >> Take a long look at MI-90058 (near the bottom)
> >> Gunner
> >
> >Now what the hell is Moly Vanadium 440???! Never heard of it. I've got
> >some Vanadium stainless kitchen knives that we never use for anything but
> >cutting bread. Dull as hell but I've never set about to put an edge on
them
> >to see if they *could* be any good.
> >
> >GA
> >
> 440 Chrome Moly with a fair amount of vanadium in the melt. Same stuff
> they use for razor blades. Your knives are "stainless", which is the
> reason you cant get an edge on it. Most kitchen knife stainless is the
> wrong type to make knives out of. The steel smears, rather than
> sharpens. Muela knives use a type of high carbon steel, that has a
> high vanadium content..are considered semi-stainless...and sharpen to
> an edge you can slice falling hairs with. I own a number of them. They
> will sharpen to scary sharp. And hold the edge for a long period of
> time, even sheathed and sitting in the vault. But they will rust if
> not taken care of over a long period of time.
> Not badly..but they will rust.
> http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1024
This link tells me what I already know about 440 A, B and C... Stainless
Steel. The F series I have heard of but had forgotten. Still Stainless
steel. Throw in some Vanadium. Still Stainless Steel.
>
> Muela is a Spanish knife maker...really good shit, Maynard. Some of
> the grips are a bit odd, some fit like they were molded to your hand
> http://www.aceros-de-hispania.com/muela-knives.htm
> Just a heads up.
> Gunner
Very cool knives. I just got through making one with an almost identical
blade to leaf bladed daggers that are shown on the web site.
GA
Gunner Asch
Thats like saying a Cessna 150 and an F-18 are just airplanes <G>
>
>>
>> Muela is a Spanish knife maker...really good shit, Maynard. Some of
>> the grips are a bit odd, some fit like they were molded to your hand
>> http://www.aceros-de-hispania.com/muela-knives.htm
>> Just a heads up.
>> Gunner
>
>Very cool knives. I just got through making one with an almost identical
>blade to leaf bladed daggers that are shown on the web site.
>
>GA
>
cool!
Greyangel
> On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 09:51:20 -0800, "Greyangel"
> >
> >This link tells me what I already know about 440 A, B and C... Stainless
> >Steel. The F series I have heard of but had forgotten. Still Stainless
> >steel. Throw in some Vanadium. Still Stainless Steel.
> Thats like saying a Cessna 150 and an F-18 are just airplanes <G>
Well maybe... except the problem with with stainless can't be fixed by
adding ingredients. You could fix it by removing chromium content though...
GA
bookburn
"Greyangel" <greynosp...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2Y6dnaTHibOHMOre...@comcast.com...
I'm thinking the shape of the blade is maybe more important than how
sharp you can get it. A double-edged dagger just might have twice the
durability of a single-edged one, regardless of how pointed it is.
bookburn
None
I got some more info from an email to an Internet store that sells that
knife:
"The handle material is “stacked leather washers” and the blade is a
carbon steel but we have no further information about it.
None
Andy Dingley
>http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=KH2124
>
>Hanwei V-42 WWII Combat Dagger Reproduction
"World War II Dagger issued to special forces, "
is a simple untruth, which always puts me off any maker.
It's also a stacked leather handle, but with no grooves cut into it. Now
that's going to suck in the wet.
>I like the price !!
I can buy a real pattern Fairbairn-Sykes form the _real_ maker for that
sort of price.
And you don't want a double edged dagger. They're truly useless for
anything that isn't actually illegal. Get a Ka-Bar, at least you can get
some use out of it.
Gunner Asch
wrote:
Actually its likely to have less, as it has less steel in it, for the
same square inch of total size. Edges are fragile, and with a double
edge, you have 2, with a deminished spine and back.
Chas
>>Hanwei V-42 WWII Combat Dagger Reproduction
> "World War II Dagger issued to special forces, "
> is a simple untruth, which always puts me off any maker.
What's 'untrue'?
It's a repro of the Case Thumbprint V-42, as issued to the First Special
Services Force- even has the long scabbard.
> It's also a stacked leather handle, but with no grooves cut into it. Now
> that's going to suck in the wet.
They're actually kind of a fragile feeling knife, but the grip is shaped
nicely for handling. I'm not much of a stilleto guy.
> I can buy a real pattern Fairbairn-Sykes form the _real_ maker for that
> sort of price.
The V-42 Case was a pretty expensive knife to produce, compared to most
others. It was bright polished, deep blued, very nicely ground. The scabbard
was particularly good quality.
> And you don't want a double edged dagger. They're truly useless for
> anything that isn't actually illegal. Get a Ka-Bar, at least you can get
> some use out of it.
They're definitely a specialized knife.
Chas
alv...@xx.com
> >> >Stainless Steel. The F series I have heard of but had
> >> >forgotten. Still Stainless steel. Throw in some Vanadium.
> >> >Still Stainless Steel.
> >> Thats like saying a Cessna 150 and an F-18 are just airplanes <G>
Never expected that from Gunner. :)
(thought he understood stainless steel)
> > Well maybe... except the problem with with stainless can't be
> > fixed by adding ingredients. You could fix it by removing
> > chromium content though...
> > GA
> I'm thinking the shape of the blade is maybe more important than how
> sharp you can get it. A double-edged dagger just might have twice the
> durability of a single-edged one, regardless of how pointed it is.
> bookburn
I guess I can't really argue with that, but for some odd reason I'd
like to. ;)
Stainless steel's problems are throughout the -whole material- and
only shows -some of them- at the edge.
For use in knife blades, stainless steel can only beat tool steels
in two catagories...
1) corrosion resistance
2) sellability
GA's been reading a metallurgy book and now understands martensitic
stainless steels for what they really are, a chromium sponge with
(at best) medium carbon steel mixed in it. (or vise versa, the
medium carbon steel is diluted by the Cr?;)
Boker's 1918 trench knife is reproduced in good ol' 1075. :)
(Case was a major disappointment it that regard)
YMMV
Alvin in AZ
alv...@xx.com
> > it. Now that's going to suck in the wet.
Hmmm... don't have any leather handled stuff around here anymore to
test that statement.
Just got done finishing two handles made of canvas-micarta (one
brown one black) and while dry and freshly sanded, they are slick
like any other micarta but when wet (washing them off;) they were
"grippy;)" as anything I can remember messing with while wet.
Didn't try it with oil on my hands (as porformed by Mike Swaim) but
while smearing a tiny bit of lard on them I don't remember them
feeling slick. Since the new owners will be skinning some pigs with
them, I'll ask about the handles getting slick.
Alvin in AZ
ps- already given away and didn't scan off any pictures but the one
in black, with the seven 1/8" steel pins, looked really cool ;)
None
>
> Boker's 1918 trench knife is reproduced in good ol' 1075. :)
> (Case was a major disappointment it that regard)
The price is right :) Anyone know where they sell this in Canada ?
Andy Dingley
wrote:
>What's 'untrue'?
>It's a repro of the Case Thumbprint V-42, as issued to the First Special
>Services Force- even has the long scabbard.
My mistake - I'd just never heard of the original. I thought this one
was an oddball repro of the F-S with added leather.
Chas
>> > It's also a stacked leather handle, but with no grooves cut into
>> > it. Now that's going to suck in the wet.
> Hmmm... don't have any leather handled stuff around here anymore to
> test that statement.
It's been a favored handle material since the mid-1850's or so. In modern
times, Randall has done very well with them.
It's a matter of how they're made. The beeswax treatment that Randall uses
makes the handle tacky, not slick. The disconnect is generally that people
oil the grips- bad move.
Chas
Chas
>>It's a repro of the Case Thumbprint V-42, as issued to the First Special
>>Services Force- even has the long scabbard.
> My mistake - I'd just never heard of the original. I thought this one
> was an oddball repro of the F-S with added leather.
It kinda is- and the F-S was issued to the Marine Corps in the same type
scabbard, made here instead of in England. They had a silver colored hilt
and U.S.M.C etched in a banner on the blade.
The Case was the 'improvement' on the F-S; skullcrusher pommel, 'thumbprint'
for the striking hold and so on. They had made a 'Pigsticker' for many
years- a butcher's knife. They were very popular overseas, and Case drew on
that experience as well.
Chas
bookburn
"Chas" <chascl...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:l-GdnRyA_dwqpOTe...@comcast.com...
As I found out after taking apart my grandfathers old Marbles knife,
if you rearrange those leather circles out of series, you end up with
rougher texture. bb
>
>
Gunner Asch
>> >> >This link tells me what I already know about 440 A, B and C...
>> >> >Stainless Steel. The F series I have heard of but had
>> >> >forgotten. Still Stainless steel. Throw in some Vanadium.
>> >> >Still Stainless Steel.
>
>> >> Thats like saying a Cessna 150 and an F-18 are just airplanes <G>
>
>Never expected that from Gunner. :)
>(thought he understood stainless steel)
Which stainless steel are you refering to? Poorly heat treated 420 or
ast-34? <G>
>
>> > Well maybe... except the problem with with stainless can't be
>> > fixed by adding ingredients. You could fix it by removing
>> > chromium content though...
>> > GA
>
>> I'm thinking the shape of the blade is maybe more important than how
>> sharp you can get it. A double-edged dagger just might have twice the
>> durability of a single-edged one, regardless of how pointed it is.
>> bookburn
>
>I guess I can't really argue with that, but for some odd reason I'd
>like to. ;)
I thought you understood cross sectional/beam forces better than that?
<G>
>
>Stainless steel's problems are throughout the -whole material- and
>only shows -some of them- at the edge.
>
>For use in knife blades, stainless steel can only beat tool steels
>in two catagories...
>1) corrosion resistance
>2) sellability
Ayup.
>
>GA's been reading a metallurgy book and now understands martensitic
>stainless steels for what they really are, a chromium sponge with
>(at best) medium carbon steel mixed in it. (or vise versa, the
>medium carbon steel is diluted by the Cr?;)
>
>Boker's 1918 trench knife is reproduced in good ol' 1075. :)
>(Case was a major disappointment it that regard)
>
>YMMV
>
>Alvin in AZ
Ayup
Scar...@webtv.net
Greyangel
> On Mon, 14 Nov 2005 16:42:30 +0000 (UTC), alv...@XX.com wrote:
>
> >> >> >This link tells me what I already know about 440 A, B and C...
> >> >> >Stainless Steel. The F series I have heard of but had
> >> >> >forgotten. Still Stainless steel. Throw in some Vanadium.
> >> >> >Still Stainless Steel.
> >
> >> >> Thats like saying a Cessna 150 and an F-18 are just airplanes <G>
> >
> >Never expected that from Gunner. :)
> >(thought he understood stainless steel)
>
> Which stainless steel are you refering to? Poorly heat treated 420 or
> ast-34? <G>
Too much chrome will always be just that. You can add all the extra
ingredients you want and you still got a low grade knife steel.
GA
the wharf rat
Greyangel <greynosp...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>Too much chrome will always be just that. You can add all the extra
>ingredients you want and you still got a low grade knife steel.
>
I have a couple of VG-10 blades I'm pretty happy with...
Greyangel
"the wharf rat" <wr...@panix.com> wrote in message
news:dldjod$jlk$1...@reader2.panix.com...
it, most of us use 440 as a base line for a knife. Everything you've ever
expected from a knife started with 440 and then you start trying to improve
on it. I don't mean you personally and maybe your first knife experiences
were with carbon steel but for most of us it starts with stainless kitchen
knives and 440 (or "surgical") steel pocket knives. YMMV as they say.
GA
the wharf rat
Greyangel <greynosp...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>I've heard good things about VG-10. Compared to what though?
Well, compared to other knives :-) I'm much much happier with
VG-10 than I am with AUS-8 and that other junk. It's easy to get sharp
and it stays sharp. It's definitely my favorite for kitchen knives (where
corrosion really is a factor). My EDC is a Navigator and the only time I've
had to do more than touch it up a bit was when I had to use it to dig crap
out of another tool and seriously blunted the edge against the other metal.
Even then it only took a little on the hard stone to get it back. So I
think it's as good as my old Schrades and it's lots prettier :-)
I've got a couple of ATS-34 blades I'm not nearly as impressed with.
It's lots of work to get them sharp and they never seem to feel as cutty
as the VG ones. The edge seems to well not exactly dull but get not sharp
quickly if that makes sense, I mean, it still cuts but you need to put some
thought into it....
I do apologize for the lack of technical terms but I'm a layman
in this context...
alv...@xx.com
> As I found out after taking apart my grandfathers old Marbles
> knife, if you rearrange those leather circles out of series, you
> end up with rougher texture. bb
Not quite sure how to take that still after pondering it for a
while. Are you saying you liked it better after you did that?
Or are you telling on yourself about an ah-shit you pulled?
Or both? ;)
> > It's a matter of how they're made. The beeswax treatment that
> > Randall uses makes the handle tacky, not slick. The disconnect
> > is generally that people oil the grips- bad move.
> > Chas
Hmmm... so, are you saying lard is bad? ;)
Every Estes hatchet I've been allowed to mess with got the thick-ass
varnish hammered'n'scraped-off it and the bare leather larded-up to
beat hell. :) (and the face'n'edge thinned down too;)
Alvin in Pigphat, AZ
bookburn
<alv...@XX.com> wrote in message
news:dloakj$8p2$2...@reader2.panix.com...
If you get the segments out of sequence, inside out, upside down,,
chances are good you will not get them aligned perfectly again. You
can get close, but with some ridges. Try to reassemble and you are
likely to make it worse. The result may not be so bad, considering
the value of having a non-slip grip. Consider the professional
soldier who puts a big rubber band around the butt of a pistol. bb
Chas
>> > It's a matter of how they're made. The beeswax treatment that
>> > Randall uses makes the handle tacky, not slick. The disconnect
>> > is generally that people oil the grips- bad move.
It just really depends on how you're using the knife/sheath.
Oils and such are used on leather when horse-sweat has leached out the
oils/fatliquors. Otherwise, it's best not to- oil fills up the cells of the
leather and makes it so it doesn't wick off moisture, and it makes the
leather soft and sleazy- gums up with dirt and that sort of thing.
> Every Estes hatchet I've been allowed to mess with got the thick-ass
> varnish hammered'n'scraped-off it and the bare leather larded-up to
> beat hell. :) (and the face'n'edge thinned down too;)
I use wax on working handles as well- wax won't make blisters like a
linseeded handle will. I suppose I could live with a greasy handle, better
than a dry one.
I do strip the crap off-
Chas