Regular old white glue- It comes in several grades; regular, exterior,
'woodworkers', and so on.
Keep the wheel on the mandrel- put a glob of glue on a sheet of paper, and
hold it next the wheel while you rotate it. Spread the glue with a card or
something, and then put a mound of frit on a piece of paper and rotate the
wheel through it to pick up the abrasive.
Tap the side of the wheel to free up anything not glued- let it sit
overnight.
You can also use abrasives made for use on 'layed-up' wheels. It is soft,
applied to the wheel like a dry bar abrasive, except it has an adhesive
'carrier'. You smear it on and then dry overnight.
Chas
About 10 years ago I bought a 6"x 1"wide Norton extra-high density,
de-burring wheel ($45) and wore it out over several years, gave it
away at about 5", replaced it with a cheaper ($33) medium density
3M deburring wheel that I'm about to change out. It wasn't as good
as the Norton. ;)
I got a new Norton "high density" at -Grainger.com 3UM52 (~$50)-.
All these have been SiC fine grit which I suppose is about 400 to
600 grit so is more of a polisher than a stock remover.
It's turned out to be one of my favorite tools. :)
Alvin in AZ
Steve
--
Sharpening Made Easy: A Primer on Sharpening Knives and Other Edged
Tools by Steve Bottorff
Copyright January 2002 Knife World Publications
www.sharpeningmadeeasy.com
I prepare my wheel on the grinder to make sure it is round, but prefer
to take it off for the gluing and grit. I lay the grit out on a piece
of newspaper, then lift the two sides to arrange it in a straight line.
Just roll the wheel with wet glue in the grit, guiding it with your
fingers in the hole.
After the overnight drying, load the wheel with the wax, then hit it
with a piece of scrap steel to knock off any high spots. Also there
tends to be some grit hanging over the edges that will cut you if you
touch them. Knock that off too with the scrap.
Add more wax when the wheel starts making sparks.
I use about a 220 and a 400+ and red rouge-
> What are you using them for?
Fine sharpening after stock removal on other machinery- keeping studio tools
sharp.
> How long does an aplication last before you need to re-do it?
Couple of times a year.
I've worked trade shows using paper wheels and got a good day's work-
probably doing a couple of hundred knives a day. Reload the wheel at night,
use the next day. The reloading is 'automatic', whether it needs it or not.
> In use, is the finish it leaves, consistant?
Yes- I have them on 3450rpm motors, and they do a hell of a job.
>
> About 10 years ago I bought a 6"x 1"wide Norton extra-high density,
> de-burring wheel ($45)
I got about a dozen cast-offs from a factory- I've yet to wear out the first
one, and it's been five years or something- long time.
They were using them on something much bigger than a knife blade, and had to
discard them when the clearances closed down. They're perfect for me.
Chas
Chas
Yeah- heavier at some times than others. I use the industrial stuff- used to
use the homemade, like comes with the set, but the good stuff is cheap
enough not to bother.
Chas
"Dennis" <rok...@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:YX1gd.1551$K7....@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
And you never got your answer <g>
'Elmer' was 'Bossie's' husband; she was a sort of advertising cartoon cow
figure that merchandised milk products. He was worked up for a male icon
representing the use of milk products in more industrial/hardware kinds of
market.
Elmer's Glue is a milk based glue (originally anyway, composition has
probably evolved by now). That's why you could cut it with water, it dried
kinda translucent; all that.
Great stuff; used it all my life.
Chas
GA
"Chas" <chasclem...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:JeKdnRfYj_X...@comcast.com...