Added 2 books reviews by Bernhard Malle (malle%fuzi...@Germany.EU.net)
Thank you, Bernhard.
van der Horst, Servaas and Nop Velthuizen. Stunt Kites to Make & Fly.
Schimmelpfennig, Wolfgang. Drachen bauen und steigen lassen
(Making and Flying Kites).
Added location of mirrors; updated kite retreat listings and kite aerial
photography organization listing.
Renovation underway in Materials and Equipment.
****** * * * * * * * * *******
This is Part 1 (of 2) of the rec.kites General FAQ.
Section 0: Introduction, Acknowledgements, and Netiquette
A. Introduction
This is the general FAQ for rec.kites. It has two parts:
Part 1
0. Introduction, Acknowledgements, and Netiquette
1. rec.kites FAQs
2. Archives, Gateway/Mailing List, and Mirrors
3. Organizations
4. Magazines
5. Books and Videos; AKA Publications
6. Newsletters available on rec.kites
7. Kitemaking Workshops
8. rec.kites Charter
Part 2
9. Questions and Answers; Glossary
10. Materials
10. 11. Equipment
10. Materials
11. Equipment
13. Safety
Comments, corrections, and contributions are welcomed. Send to
Anne Rock (ro...@netcom.com).
Last revised 11 February 1994.
B. Acknowledgements
The history of the general FAQ is undocumented, but the names
Mike Connell, Mike Barrett, Evan Splett, and Marty Sasaki have
been linked with it.
Thanks to:
Ken Ritchie for creating rec.kites and writing the charter;
Marty Sasaki for starting and maintaining the gateway and
mailing list;
Kevin Mayeshiro for maintaining the archives;
All the kite flyers who contribute to rec.kites.
C. Netiquette
1. Read news.announce.newusers articles if you're new to USENET.
2. Read all available articles before posting a follow-up.
3. Many systems do not wrap lines. Keep line length to less than
80 characters and hit a carriage return at the end of each line.
4. Tips to ensure the most readers of your articles:
a. Use descriptive and concise "Subject:" lines.
b. If you branch off from the original topic of a thread,
change the "Subject:" line.
c. Include only relevant lines from previous articles; remove
headers and signatures.
d. Put a return address in the body of your message. The
gateway removes mail addresses, which prevents
some readers from knowing how to contact you directly.
If you also add your location (city, state/province), you
might meet nearby rec.kiters.
e. Use 'world' distribution to ensure that everyone gets your
article (some distributions may not include Harvard,
location of the gateway, thus limiting distribution).
Section 1: rec.kites FAQs
There are 4 FAQs for rec.kites; the last posted version of each is
available from the rec.kites archive (see Section 2).
A. General FAQ: what you are reading.
B. Address FAQ (Kite Dealers/Organizations/Clubs).
1. Kite Stores (listed by country)
2. Mail Order Companies
3. American Kitefliers Association Member Merchants (worldwide)
4. Kitemaker's Supplies (new section, Sept. 1993)
5. Kite Clubs and Organizations
Maintained by Dan Rubesh (da...@crash.cts.com).
Corrections and additions may be posted to rec.kites; Dan requests
that if you post to rec.kites you also email the information to him.
He is willing to provide area-specific listings and can usually reply
to queries within 1-2 days.
C. Kite Reviews. Simo Salanne (sal...@csc.fi) has assumed ownership of
this FAQ for 6 months (Oct '93 - April '94).
1. "What kite do I buy to learn on?"
2. Explanation of symbols used in Section 3
3. Reviews and comments about many stunt kites
4. Beaufort Scale
D. Kite Plans. Compiled by Esben Collstrup, who is currently off-line, and
posted by Simo Salanne (sal...@csc.fi).
1. Stunt kite plans published in magazines
2. Books (with comments)
a. Stunt kite plans only
b. Primarily single-line with a few stunt kite plans
3. Plans for individual kites (available for purchase)
4. Kits for stunt kites (available for purchase)
Section 2: Archives, Gateway/Mailing List, and Mirrors
A. Archives are located at ftp.hawaii.edu and available via anonymous
ftp. To send material directly to the archives, use the address
ki...@ftp.hawaii.edu. Archive maintenance is usually done once a week,
so it may be several days before GIFs, etc., are available.
Kevin Mayeshiro (ke...@hawaii.edu) maintains the archives.
Path for archives is pub/rec/kites.
To send pictures: uuencode and send to ki...@ftp.hawaii.edu.
See Section C for instructions on accessing the archives via email.
B. rec.kites is available to people who do not have USENET access but
can receive email. Marty Sasaki (sas...@netop3.harvard.edu) maintains a
mailing list and a gateway; people on the mailing list receive rec.kites as
email and can email articles back to rec.kites through this gateway.
Send email to kites-...@harvard.edu to get on/off the mailing list,
make changes to your address, etc.
C. Archive (ftp) access via email
Edward C. Sarlls, III (sar...@wg2.waii.com) wrote:
Send the message "help" to ftp...@decwrl.dec.com (no subject) for
information.
I used this to access the kites area of ftp.hawaii.edu via mail.
For example, I sent the following message to ftp...@decwrl.dec.com:
reply sar...@wg2.waii.com
connect ftp.hawaii.edu
chdir pub/rec/kites/faq
dir
I got the following response:
total 125
-rw-r--r-- 1 kite ftp 39059 May 1 20:10 faq.address
-rw-r--r-- 1 kite ftp 18553 Apr 17 11:14 faq.general
-rw-r--r-- 1 kite ftp 18529 May 20 10:09 faq.kite-plans
-rw-r--r-- 1 kite ftp 44745 Apr 15 03:30 faq.kite-reviews
-rw-r--r-- 1 kite ftp 3510 May 20 10:06 how.to.contribute
D. Mirrors
There are three archive mirrors:
ftp.uni-bremen.de
ftp.bsc.no
ftp.funet.fi
Section 3: Organizations
This section is a small subset of organizations in the Address
FAQ; those listed here are top level organizations in a country,
activity-specific groups, etc.
American Kitefliers Association:
American Kitefliers Association
1559 Rockville Pike
Rockville, MD 20852-1651 USA
(800) AKA-2550
Membership benefits include 6 issues per year of the journal
_Kiting_, a 10% discount from AKA Member Merchants (see
Address FAQ), an annual convention (stunt, fighter, and single-line
kite competitions, workshops, business meeting), membership
directory, personal liability insurance for members when they are
in the United States.
The AKA has a computerized and interactive telephone information
line, the AKA Automated Information System (408-SEE-4-AKA).
The system has information on AKA and how to join, insurance, and
convention locations, as well as stunt kite conference standings.
Membership fees (US dollars only):
Individual: $20 /year
Additional Family, per person: $4/year
1st class mail U.S.: $8/year
Canada and Mexico, add: $8/year
Overseas surface mail: $10/year
Overseas air mail: $25/year
1, 2, and 3-year memberships available, with a savings on multiple
year memberships. Mastercard and Visa accepted.
The Kite Society of Great Britain
The Kite Society of Great Britain
P.O. BOX 2274,
Gt Horkesley,
Colchester,
Essex CO6 4AY
Membership in the Kite Society of Great Britain brings you four
issues of _THE KITEFLIER_ plus other occasional mailings. Each
member receives a membership card entitling them to free entry
to most kite UK festivals and a discount ranging from 5% to 15%
on kite purchases from the majority of kite retailers in the UK.
Cost !8.00 per year Individual
!9.00 Family in same household
!6.00 O.A.P.
!9.00 Overseas surface mail
!12.50 Overseas air mail
Belgian Kite Association:
le Nouveau Cervoliste Belge
c/o Jacques Durieux
rue de la Houssiere 45
B-1435 Hevillers
telephone (from Belgium) 010/656200
Membership is 1000 Bef. (approx US$30) for 6 issues of the
newsletter (includes plans, dates of events, news, tips ...) (available
in French or Dutch); insurance, which covers Belgians everywhere,
non-Belgians when they fly in Belgium; and a discount card for
Belgian shops.
Kite Aerial Photography Worldwide Foundation
Michel Dusariez
14, avenue Capitaine Piret
1150 Brussels, Belgium
fax: 32 2 512 68 29 (add country code)
KAPWA has reorganized as a foundation as of January 1994, and is no
longer publishing the quarterly _News and Technique_. Leaflets will
be mailed to the disenfranchised members explaining the purpose of
the foundation.
Back issues may be available--contact Michel Dusariez.
STACK (Sport Team And Competitive Kiting)
STACK Contacts (updated May 1993)
Membership Secretary:
Patrick Bonneau +44-795-474819
1 Terrace Road fax +44-795-474819
Sittingbourne
Kent ME10 4SF
England
See the Address FAQ for country contacts.
Kite Builders International (KBI)
5555 Hamilton Boulevard
Wescosville, PA 18106
Telephone/fax (215) 395-3560
Publishers of a new (1993) quarterly journal for kitemakers,
featuring instructions and tips on making stunt and single-line kites
as well as general articles such as making a light table, designing
high performance ultra light stunt kites, geometry review. Written
by members and staff.
KBI has also produced a video for beginning kitemakers; see Book
and Video section.
Kite Builders Studio (at the same address) sells kitemaking supplies.
Annual membership $20 for 4 issues
The Kitemakers Connection
923 Stanley
Ardmore, OK 73401
Telephone (405) 226-0285
The Kitemakers Connection's goals are to provide kitemakers/artists
with information on shows and exhibits and how to get kites
accepted into shows; to stress importance of originality in design;
to start a slide collection that will be used to promote art kites;
to share techniques, resources, ideas through a quarterly newsletter;
to find sponsors for scholarships to enable kitemakers to travel to
festivals and workshops; to promote kiting as an art form; to develop
goodwill between kitemakers worldwide.
Founded by Janene Evards in 1993.
$15.00 per year.
Section 4: Magazines
This section lists magazines published independently of organizations
and clubs. Most of the magazines include a calendar of events.
Kite Lines, Quarterly Journal of the Worldwide Kite Community (English)
P.O. Box 466
Randallstown, MD 21133-0466 USA
(410) 922-1212, fax (410) 922-4262
$14.00/4 issues for U.S. and possessions; $18.00 (air) elsewhere
American Kite (English)
P.O. Box 699
Cedar Ridge, CA 95924-9984 USA
Telephone (916) 273-3855, fax (916) 273-3319
$14.00/4 issues for U.S. and possessions; $24.00 elsewhere.
Drachen (German, with occasional bits in English)
Fruchtallee 13
D-20259 Hamburg 20
Germany
Telephone 040-439 56 67, fax 040-439 53 77, email r...@wi.maus.de
DM 32.00/4 issues
U.S. subscriptions available through American Kite (see above),
$20/4 issues.
Sport & Design Drachen (German)
Fremersbergstr. 1
Postfach 11 28
7570 Baden-Baden
Germany
Telephone 07221/21 07-0, fax 07221/2107-52
DM 36.00/4 issues (Germany)
Vlieger (Dutch)
Postbus 53505
2505 AM Den Haag
The Netherlands
Hfl 17.50 for 6 issues (all subscriptions run January - December);
foreign subscriptions Hfl 25 (moneyorder), Hfl 17.50 for Belgium
and Luxemborg. Additional Hfl 11 for Eurochecks.
Section 5: Books and Videos; AKA Publications
A. Books and Videos
Andrew, Hugh J.G. S.F. Cody's War Kites. !9.99 (approx US$20)
If you're thinking of making a Cody kite, get this book. A few pages
of history and background, but the bulk of the book is a 23-step
set of instructions with many detailed illustrations.
Not yet available from Kite Lines; try Bristol Kitestore, 1B Pitville
Place, Cotham Hill, Bristol BS6 6JY England. tel (0272) 745010.
Cottrell, Mark. The Kite Store Book of Kites. 1988. $13.95
No ISBN. The Kite Store Ltd.
From the preface: ". . . if you feel like making a few of my stranger
kites (some are quick to build, others can take weeks) most of
which fly quite well and reading about my thoughts on certain
types of kite design this book may be of interest to you."
Plans for double and triple sleds, swept wing box kite, 2 ramfoils,
keeled hexagon, multi-jib, Flaix family of kites, Whole World Kite,
Cross Tail box, mega multiflare. Plans are not overly detailed.
Also a chapter covering rules for flight, designing swept wings and
deltas, lift capabilities and line strength, and altitude (height
records, determining height).
Book also includes diskette with 5 BASIC programs; listings for
4 programs in the book (evaluate side and lift area of flaix type
kites; evaluate minimum size of kite to lift a given load in stated
wind; estimate maximum height attainable by single kite system;
evaluate size and shape of keel for swept wing designs).
*Cottrell, Mark. Swept Wing Stunt Kites. $11.95
Whether you build stunt kites or not this makes you understand
the anatomy of a stunter. Plans for LiteFlite kites.
Cottrell, Mark. Kite Aerial Photography. 1987. $10.95
No ISBN. The Kite Store Ltd.
Discusses suspension systems, cameras, cradle, and remote control
systems and provides plans (not detailed) for several lifting kites:
parafoil, delta, Peter Lynn Tri-D.
A good overview, but some information, such as camera choices, is
out-of-date. Author had been doing kite aerial photography for 9
years at time of publication.
*Eden, Maxwell. Kiteworks. $14.95
ISBN 0-8069-6712-9 (hardcover, there is a paperback version now)
A collection of kite plans (98% single-line) from many kitemakers.
There are a number of errors: think the project through first. Not
recommended for the first kitemaking book, but it does show many
different approaches to kitemaking with many detailed illustrations.
Gallot, Philippe. Fighter Kites. $12.95
ISBN 0-312-03964-6
Plans and instructions for 29 fighter kites. Use the metric
measurements.
*Gomberg, David, editor. Stunt Kites! $8.95
A basic flight manual for dual-line kites. 4th edition 1993.
Gomberg, David. The Fighter Kite Book! A Complete Flight Manual for Single
Line Maneuverable Kites. $8.95
Greger, Margaret. Kites for Everyone. 1984. $12.95
Library of Congress # 84-90383
Plans for about 48 kites (Vietnamese and snake, Dutch and dragon,
sled, bullet, square, eddy, delta, box, corner and facet, flowform)
and tails, bags, and drogues. Instructions written for various papers,
plastics, or ripstop. Chapter on classroom kites.
Greger, Margaret. More Kites for Everyone. 1990. $9.95
ISBN 0-9613680-1-4
Plans for about 17 kites (sled, delta, eddy, facet, Peter Lynn Tri-D,
delta-conyne, Goble starbox, others). Materials called for are various
papers, plastics (tips on heat sealing plastic), ripstop. Chapters on
kites in the classroom and at camp (Margaret has been teaching
kitemaking for over 15 years).
both are self-published (and available from many kite retailers)
Margaret Greger, 1425 Marshall,
Richland, WA 99352 USA
Margaret Greger's books are the ones recommended for beginning
(to expert) single-line kitemakers. "More Kites for Everyone" is
newer, has more current background information.
Hart, Clive. Kites - an Historical Survey. 1967. $14.95
ISBN 0-911858-38-5 (paperback)
The best general history of kites (in English).
Hosking, Wayne. Kites To Touch the Sky: A Guide to Making and Flying
Plastic Kites. 1993. $9.95. No ISBN.
Detailed plans for 32 kites, ranging from sleds to eddy to seven
sisters to boxes, tretrahedral, and facet. Introductory chapters
covering terms, components of kites, how to fly, and working with
plastic.
Ito, Dr. Toshio and Hirotsugu Komura. Kites - The Science and the Wonder.
1983. $11.95 ISBN 0-87040-526-8
The authors "applied scientific theory and scientific technology to
the study of kites, their manufacture and operation." Chapters on
Aerodynamics - Kite Stability; Aerodynamics - Kite Dynamics; Kite
Making Materials; Development of the Basic "Original" Kite; Various
Basic "Original" Kites. Translated from Japanese.
Kite Builders International Workshop Video #1 - Beginning kitemaking.
60 minutes. $23.00
Discusses properties of different fabrics, how to prepare fabric,
cutting, basic hems, different seams, leading edge construction,
pockets and sleeves. Applique covered briefly (video #2 will
focus on applique). (Address listed in Organization section.)
Lynn, Peter. Buggies, Boats & Peels. $6.95 or in the archives
(pub/rec/kites/info/buggies.boats.peels) (thanks to Andrew Beattie).
History, theory, how to start buggying, etc., and information on
Peter Lynn Peel kites. For traction enthusiasts.
*Moulton, Ron and Pat Lloyd. Kites: A Practical Handbook. 1992. $27.95
ISBN 1-85486-050-X
Good introduction to kite aerial photography and the best section
around on parachuting fauna. Also chapters on making kites; lines,
bridles, knots, and reels; rokkaku fighting; dual and quadline kites,
with plans for 9 kites; plans for 11 single-line kites, plus a few
others scattered throughout the book. A general broad introduction
to the world of kites today.
*Pelham, David. The Penguin Book of Kites. 1976. $12.95
An excellent reference, often called the "bible" of kiteflying.
Good section on history, with many photos. Construction, including
fastenings, joints and frame materials, cover material, knots, reels,
and line (some information not current). Flying/aerodynamics,
including lift and stability; bridles, keels, and rudders; tails and
drogues; location; launching, control, and landing; wind conditions;
rating a kite; measuring altitude. Kite patterns: over 100 plans,
which are scaled drawings, not detailed instructions.
The Prism Guide - Prism Design. $8.00
Included with each Prism kite, available separately from Prism
dealers. Considered a little more advanced than Gomberg's book;
a very small amount relates only to Prism kites.
Rieleit, Peter. Leistungsstarke Lenkdrachen zum Nachbauen. (Efficient Stunt
Kites to Build) Ravensburger Verlag, 29.80 DM. ISBN 3-473-42286-X
96 pages, lots of color pictures and photos
This is the first book by Peter Rieleit. Peter owns a kite shop in
Duesseldorf, Germany, and seems to be well known at least in this
area.
His book is called "Leistungsstarke Lenkdrachen zum Nachbauen"
(Efficient Stunt Kites to Build). The book contains plans for seven
stunt kites, three stunt parafoils and three so-called sculpture soft
kites. You also find the usual chapters on kite material, working
techniques and some words about flying and landing stunt kites. The
plans are all accompanied by lots of color pictures and some drawings.
As usual, I cannot say much on the stunt kites in the book. They are
all based on the same outline. The only thing that differs is the
aspect ratio (width/height) and the size. They all have two spreaders
and no-stand offs. The plans are detailed and seem to contain all the
important information that is needed to build the kites.
In the second part of the book Peter introduces a new kind of soft
stunt kites. The new thing with this sort of parafoil is the profile
and the bridle. Peter proposes a self-stabilising profile which results
in the fact that you only need one point at the profile where you
attach the bridle line. Contrary to earlier parafoils or the paraflex
from Wolfgang Schimmelpfennig, Peter's profiles are flat on the top and
curved on the lower part of the profile. In addition to the profiles
that go from the leading til the trailing edge, Peter uses one or two
short (approx. 20cm long) profiles between the long ones to stabilize
the most efficient forward part of the profile. The first plan of a
soft kite is accompanied by 22 (!) color pictures that show how to
cut and sew the profiles together. The only thing that could have been
done better in this part is that he uses the same white ripstop for
profile, lower and upper panel of the parafoil. It is therefore
sometimes very difficult to see on the pictures what he is really
doing. The other two plans are mostly a variation of the first one
with respect to size.
The last part of the book deals with so-called sculpture soft kites.
Peter has built some really exciting soft kites, comparable only to
the octopus of Peter Lynn or "Jake the Snake" of Wolfgang
Schimmelpfennig. One kite, the super-fly, is a big eye catcher in any
case just because of its size: four wings (3m x 2m), two on each side
of the 15m long tail!! The other two plans describe how to build a
banana and a pteranodon. All sculpture kites are based on the parafoil
principle and are planned as stunt kites. Funny thing about the
super-fly plan: Peter mentions in the plan that 48m ripstop in
different colors are needed for it. As I wanted to build this kite, I
recalculated the ripstop and finally ended up with at least 65m
(15m tail not included)! Peter also mentions in some introductory
sentences to this chapter that only experienced kite builders should
try to build these kites, especially as not all dimensions and
measures are given in the plan.
I can very much recommend this book. The section about the ordinary
stunt kites does not contain very much that is new, but the two
chapters that deal with soft kites and sculpture kites make this book
an absolute "must have!" The many excellent photos in the book make it
also useful for those who do not understand German. And if there are
enough requests for an English version, perhaps Peter will produce one?
(review by Bernhard Malle, November 1993)
*Rowlands, Jim. The Big Book Of Kites. 1988. $12.95
ISBN 0-312-02047-3
Plans for plane-surface kites (roller, flare, others); 9 deltas;
7 corner kites; facet kites; 2 stunters (a diamond and a delta)
plus a train of diamonds; 4 sleds; 2 parafoils, Sutton flowform;
rotor kites; tails. Most plans are written for ripstop nylon, others
for tyvek, plastic, mylar, or paper.
Rowlands, Jim. One-Hour Kites. 1989. $12.95
ISBN 0-312-03218-8
Paperfold kites, sleds, deltas, flexible kites, bowed kites, box/
3-dimensional kites, stunters. The instructions are written for
tyvek, paper, sheet plastic, mylar, etc., little or no sewing (tape
is the primary fastener). Chapter on decoration.
Rowlands, Jim. Soft Kites & Windsocks. 1992. $14.95
ISBN 0-312-08986-X
Sleds, parafoils, flowforms (Rowlands/high aspect), inflatable
kites, windsocks, drogues. Introductory chapters on materials,
different seams, construction.
Schertel, Christine (text, plans, drawings). Skywork Experience II.
Bernhard Maas (illustrations). 52 pages, 19.80 DM
self-published by skywork-agency, 20144 Hamburg
This is the second book from Christine Schertel. The first was
completely devoted to stunt kites, with plans for a speed revolution
for example. The new one contains plans for 9 stunt kites and three
single-liners.
Stunt kite plans are arrow, elegance, nodronte, flitz jr.,
wolkenstuermer 101, hunter, lite flite s, bombus, stunt starte
Single-line kites are hargrave box kite, revolver, and cody.
The speciality of both Schertel books is that they do not contain a
single photo, but that each kite is drawn as an aquarelle by the
well-known German photographer Bernhard Maas. Another speciality is
that it is one of the rare books where you will not find the 500th
introduction to sewing techniques and other introductory general stuff.
I am not a stunt kite expert as Esben, so I cannot classify the
different kites (most of them are said to come from German designers).
The plans and drawings are quite good; I have not tried any plans yet,
but it is also said in the introduction of the book that not every
single step is shown. Nevertheless I think the instructions are quite
clear.
Something that I am missing in the book are a few words about each
kite, for example about the history (no explanation of the cody!!!),
flying characteristics or tips for the adjustment of the bridle.
As someone said earlier in rec.kites, the book should be available from
the Kite Lines bookstore...
(Review by Bernhard Malle, November 1993)
*Schimmelpfenning, Wolfgang. Lenkdrachen Bauen und Fliegen (Making &
Flying Stunt Kites). $13.95 (German text)
ISBN 3-8068-1011-7
Plans for 4 deltas, 3 diamonds, and the Paraflex (a foil). Good
details.
Schimmelpfennig, Wolfgang. Drachen bauen und steigen lassen (Making and
Flying Kites). ISBN 3-8068-0767-1
Falken Verlag, Germany, 19.80 DM
79 pages, lots of color pictures, drawings and photos
This is the second book by Wolfgang Schimmelpfennig. It is called
"Making and Flying kites" and was published for the first time in
1987. There exists a new edition since 1991. Wolfgang is well-known
in Germany, and I think also in the world-wide kite-community. He is
one of the organizers of the "International Kite Flyers Meeting" in
Fano. He has also published some other books on a) stunt kites, b)
kites for children, c) a book mainly with wonderful photos from kites
all over the world with many kite developers and d) since November
1993 a new book on single-line kites and stunt kites.
This book mainly deals with single-line kites. It is divided into 4
chapters about the history of kites and kite building, materials, plans
of kites and some tips on why kites fly. You will find plans for 19
kites and kite trains.
The chapter about the kite history starts with kites from China,
Japan, Thailand, Korea, and Bali. Wolfgang then mentions among others
Bell and Cody and finishes the chapter with some remarks about F.
Rogallo. The chapter about material and sewing techniques covers the
usual techniques about ripstop, bamboo, carbon and wood spars, knots.
You will also find remarks about sewing and painting of tyvek.
In the plan chapter, there are plans for single-line kites: eddy, eddy-
train, hexagonal-kites, train of hexagonal-kites, delta, flare, flare-
train, multi-flare , nagasaki hata, indian fighter kite, sanjo rokkaku,
janggaan, wau bulan, parafoil, spinning windsock, conyne-type delta
and snowflake. The book also contains plans for a peter powell and a
stunt kite called vector. The plans are detailed enough to be able to
build all the kites.
In the last pages of the book Wolfgang explains why kites fly and how
one can increase the stability of kites. The book is finished with some
information about stunt kite flying, on how to make pictures of kites
and safety of kites in general.
As a conclusion I can very much recommend the book. This was the
first book on kites that I bought and I have built the snowflake,
spinning windsock, the delta and a sanjo rokkaku from the plans with
no difficulties. If you are a more experienced kite builder, you might
be looking for a some more complicated or modern kites, but this book
is perfectly suited for beginners.
(Review by Bernhard Malle, December 1993)
(This book may be out-of-print)
Schimmelpfennig, Wolfgang. Neue Lenkdrachen und Einleiner (New Stunt Kites
and Single Liners). Text in German.
Falken Verlag, 24.80 DM. ISBN 3-8068-1353-1
80 pages, lots of color photos and drawings
Since a few weeks, there is a new book from Wolfgang Schimmelpfennig
available called "Neue Lenkdrachen und Einleiner" (New Stunt Kites and
Single Liners). Wolfgang has already published one book on stunt kites,
one about single-line kites and one about making kites with kids (all
of them available via the Kite Lines bookstore).
In his new book you can find plans for six stunt kites (Solar Fire,
Bel Air, Relax II, Scanner, Heavy Duty and Paradox) and three single-
line kites (Samurai, Starflake and Starbird). The book resembles very
much his other books: there is an introduction, a chapter about how to
be creative with colors and forms when building kites, one chapter
about materials and techniques. The book contains a lot of nice color
pictures, but the names of the creators and kite builders (Peter Lynn,
George Peters, Peter Malinski or Schimmelpfennig himself) are very
rarely given.
The plans themselves seem to be as detailed and good as in all the
other books by Wolfgang. As I am not an expert of stunt kites I cannot
say much about the different kites. Nevertheless I have the impression
that most of them are already well known and not really new. As
Wolfgang never mentions any inventor or original designer of the kites,
I get the impression that he has invented them all by himself......
There is one kite that is a little bit extraordinary: the paradox is a
quadline kite. It is built like a box-kite and consists of seven
panels. Wolfgang mentions in his description that the kite can also be
used as single-line kite if you add a tail to it. It seems that
Wolfgang thinks that everyone knows which handles to use for a
quadliner, which length of kite line and which flying technique.
The chapter about the single line kites is introduced with a
two-page picture of Wolfgang's soft-kites "Big Boss" and "Jake the
Snake," two stunt kites. The Samurai is based on an ordinary genki,
but a little bit modified to better fit the design of a samurai. The
Starflake is kind of facet kite and if I remember right, I have seen
the same design also in a book of Jim Rowlands or Margaret Gregor. The
last plan in this book describes the Starbird. This kite is a
combination of flat star kite and an Eddy in the lower part of the kite.
The book ends with some very general tips about tuning a kite and some
safety rules.
As a conclusion I am disappointed by the book. There have been so many
advances in kite design in the last years and I have the impression
that none of them are reflected in this book. Wolfgang, who has
developed "Jake the Snake" (softkite), a new paraflex (soft stunt
kite), who seams to be a good friend of Peter Lynn and other well
known kite builders, could have put some more effort in finding new
and interesting designs.
(Review by Bernhard Malle, November 1993)
Smith, H.D. "Skip". The Illustrated Guide to Aerodynamics. 1992. $18.95.
ISBN 0-8306-3901-2
Marty Sasaki wrote:
A reader of rec.kites who understands aerodynamics recommended
[this book]. The first few chapters provide a great deal of insight
into how things work. There are also chapters on control and stability.
Reading the book caused several light bulbs to go on above my head.
I've got some serious experimenting to do...
Synergy, Richard P. Stunt Kite Basics: Making All the Right Moves. 1993.
$15.95. 142 pages.
Dave and Sherrie Arnold wrote a review of this book for the Summer-
Fall 1993 issue of Kite Lines, and the book sounds like a very good
choice for novice to intermediate stunt kite flyers, especially those
interested in precision flying and competitions. Covers safety
and courtesy; line selection and care; bridling; descriptions of
precision figures; precision flying and competitions.
Thomas, Carol. Kite Crazy. $29.95
ISBN -
History, theory, construction of four kites: a kiskadee, a rokkaku,
a dual-line and a quad-line stunt kite.
Kite Crazy video - SOMA Film and Video. $29.95
Demonstrates construction of the kites covered in the book.
*van der Horst, Servaas and Nop Velthuizen. Stunt Kites to Make & Fly.
$21.95. ISBN 90-6868-052-8
THOTH Publishers, Amsterdam, The Netherlands. 96 pages, lots of
color photos and drawings and some really nice cartoons
This is the English translation of a completely rewritten and vastly
extended version of 'Stunt Special' from the Dutch magazine Vlieger
(Kite), as it appeared in April 1989. At least Nop is well known as one
of the people from the shop Vlieger Op in Den Haag and as "crazy"
buggy pilot.
The book is completely devoted to stunt kites. It is divided into 3
sections, "contents," "construction plans," and "appendices." It
contains plans for 9 stunt kites: shuttle (a variant of the well known
Ace), speed wing (a copy of a German kite), team-light (a
featherweight variant of the hawaiian), standard-200 (sort of spin-
off), kwat (a quadliner with the shape of two combined hexagons),
speedfoil (an extremely fast cousin of the English flexifoil), sputnik
1 and 2 (enhanced versions of the paraflex, a sparless German kite),
gizmo/cicada (two Dutch variants of a modern French design "Big
Brother") and dykehopper (in the text the authors admit that "if you
really think that you have mastered the art of building stunt kites,
then this is your test case"..(whatever Nop will say with this....).
The first section deals (like any other kite book) with the history of
kites, kite material, lines, different types of kites and some basic
sewing techniques. Different from some other books, Servaas and Nop
also explain different bridle adjustments, grips, control bars and
harnesses. If you are new to quadliners, you even find some good
information about steering this beasts. Some pages about team flying,
training and figures lead to the presentation of the plans in the book.
Additionally to a lot of comprehensive pictures, you find also some
really nice cartoons in this chapter.
The plans for the kites seem also to be comprehensive and clear. I am
just building a speed wing, and there are absolutely no problems with
the instructions. As already explained, there are plans for 9 different
kites. Only the speedfoil, the Gizmo/Cicada, Sputnik and the
dykehopper seem to be new designs. What is missing at some places
are references or hints to the original inventors of the "old" designs.
In the appendice there are additional instructions on how to build a
kite sack, a folding device, foam grips and whiskers. There you can
also find a short listing which can be used to calculate variations of
the profiles for the sputnik with the help of a spreadsheet program.
When I ordered the book at our local book store, I had to wait three
months for it to come. But when it finally had arrived, I found the
book very useful, with some new plans, clear instructions and some,
let's say, unconventional, cartoons. In accordance to the normal
phrase in "KiteLines": Not only if you are a real kite enthuthiast,
this book may not be missing in your personal library.
(Review by Bernhard Malle, December 1993)
Kite Lines Book Store
P.O. Box 466
Randallstown, MD 21133-0466 USA
(410) 922-1212, fax (410) 922-4262
Carries almost all kite books in print, ships worldwide, and allows
you to return any book within 10 days if you're not satisfied.
* Books also listed, with more extensive comments, in Esben Collstrup's
Stunt Kite Plan Bibliography.
B. AKA Publications
Publications may be purchased by non-members for the second (higher)
price listed. Descriptions provided by Brooks Leffler (kyt...@aol.com),
Executive Director of AKA.
Books may be ordered by mail through the Rockville address; by phone or
fax; or by email to Brooks (kyt...@aol.com). Members may also use the
AKA Store, listed in _Kiting_. Prepayment preferred, Mastercard and Visa
accepted. See AKA listing under Organizations for address, etc.
International Sport Kite Competition Rules, Third Edition, First printing,
August 1993. 78 pp. $5.00 $7.50
This is the latest iteration of the rules by which all recognized sport kite
competitive events are run worldwide. This edition contains 30 pages of
rules, diagrams of 36 maneuvers for individual precision events, 14 team
diagrams, sample scorecards and worksheets, job descriptions, and
examples of specific judging criteria.
AKA Rules & Guidelines for Comprehensive Kitemaking Competition.
First edition, 1991. 28 pp. $5.00 $7.50
These rules were developed primarily for the comprehensive judging of
hand-made kites conducted annually at the AKA Grand Nationals. In
comprehensive competition, kites are categorized by design, and judged for
craftsmanship, structural design, flight, and aesthetic appeal. Included are
category definitions, recommendations for qualification of judges, judging
procedures, and scoring.
AKA Rules and Guidelines for Fighter Kite and Rokkaku Competitions.
AKA Fighter Kite Committee. 1992. 20 pp. $5.00 $7.50
A companion piece to the AKA Sport Kite and Comprehensive Competition
Rules, this booklet includes rules, safety guidelines, suggested field setup,
and judging criteria for individual and team single-string kite fighting.
AKA Manual on Kiting Events. H. B. Alexander and Ellen Rubenstein Chelmis.
1992 Revised Edition. 36 pp. $6.00 $8.00.
This manual is designed to help you design, organize, and run a kiteflying
event, and provides comprehensive guidelines for setting date, program, and
site, as well as discussion of competitive vs. non-competitive events,
organization, sponsorship, public relations, staffing, judging, safety, and
repairs. Includes sample field layout and forms.
Kites in the Classroom. Wayne Hosking. 48 pp. Revised 1993 Edition.
$5.00 $7.50
This is a guide for teachers, and includes some history, terminology, simple
aerodynamics, discussion of materials and tools, instructions and plans
for15 kites, brief lessons in flying, and notes on conducting a kite workshop.
Kite Club Organizer's Handbook. Victor Walton. 28 pp.
Second printing, 1993. $5.00 $7.50
A compilation of ideas from kite clubs across North America, this handbook
is intended to be a useful resource for kiters who wish to bring a bit of
structure to their kiteflying activities, while avoiding the pitfalls others
have experienced. Topics include leadership, formal and informal structure,
incorporation, by-laws, newsletters, and event ideas.
How to Fly a Kite: A Kiteflier's Manual.
Miller S. Makey, Robert M. Ingraham, and Jeff Reed. 1992. 66 pp. $2.00 $3.00
AKA Founder Bob Ingraham and Former President Miller Makey have joined
forces with artist Jeff Reed to produce a compact primer on kites and
kiteflying, written especially for those who say, "I never could get a kite to
fly." Topics covered include types of kites, brief history, anatomy of a kite,
simple aerodynamics, how to fly a kite, kite safety, and a glossary.
AKA/STACK International Stunt Kite Competition Rules, $1.00 $1.00
1990-1991 edition
Although this book was superseded by the 1992 Rules, and again by the 3rd
Edition above, the differences are mostly organizational. This book shows
all but eight of the maneuvers now in use, and describes most of the dos and
don'ts, so it's still useful for the neophyte flier. 36 pages, 28 individual
figures, 14 team figures.
Professor Kite and the Secret of Kites. Corey Jensen & Glen Ciccarelli.
Available only in bulk: $8.00 per 100; $44.00 per 1000, ppd.
This is a tri-fold leaflet on the basics of kite flying and kite safety.
Good handout for festivals & workshops.
Section 6: Newsletters Available Electronically
Back issues of newsletters can be found in the archives:
pub/rec/kites/newsletters
Buggy News
Buggy News is the official publication of the Buggy Pilots of America.
Thanks to Dan Rubesh, Buggy News is available on Internet (rec.kites).
The rec.kites version does not include graphics/photos.
Subscriptions (minimum of 6 issues) are US$5/year (or more, if
you feel like it). Contact (see on-line Buggy News for details):
Corey Jensen,
Windborne Kites
585 Cannery Row #105
Monterey, CA 93940 USA
telephone (408) 373-7422
KiteSki News
Kiteski is a kite-powered system consisting of a Banshee kite
(20-foot wingspan, 70 square feet sail area), waterskiis, and
control bar, with optional reel and brake for unassisted water
launches.
Thanks to Dan Rubesh, KiteSki News is posted to rec.kites.
For more information, a print copy of the newsletter, or a demo
video, call (800) 548-3754 or (800) KITE SKI, or write to
5555 Santa Fe St., Suite E, San Diego, CA 92109.
Kite Traction Group
The purpose of this group is to serve kite-buggiers all over the world.
The group was founded and is headed by Andrew Beattie.
The KTG plans to distribute information of interest to buggiers,
including meetings and festivals; buggying sites; product
development; local buggy groups; buggy activities within kite
groups and land yachting groups; to be a gateway of information
between those with and without computer network access; and to
assist members in locating insurance.
Membership is currently free.
To be added to the mailing list: email ki...@tug.com, leave a
message at +44 256 464 912 (0256 464912 from the UK), or
fax +44 793 614 297 (put Andrew Beattie's name on the fax).
Section 7: Kitemaking Workshops
Many festivals offer kitemaking classes for both children and adults,
and clubs often schedule workshops and classes. In the United States
there are also several kitemaking retreats.
Maryland Kite Society Retreat - February 18-21, 1994. Westminster, Maryland.
Instructors include Kevin Shannon, Bob Price, Steve and Tony Ferrel, Glen
Haynes, Scott Spencer, Bobby Stanfield, Bill Goodwin, Maurizio Angeletti,
Jon Burkhardt, Cinda Shannon, Felix Cartagena. More information from:
Betty Hirschmann
1024 Linwood Avenue
Collingwood, NJ 08108
(609) 854-5520
Ft. Worden, Washington (state). March 4 - 6, 1994. Special guests for
1994 will be Pierre Fabre, and Eric Wolfe and Frank Fieseler of Chicago
Fire. Over 30 kitemaking seminars and classes for novice to advanced
kitemakers. Ft. Worden is near Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula.
More information from:
Bob Alford
320 NE 4th Street
North Bend, WA 98045 USA
(206) 888-2812
MAKR - Midwest Area Kitemakers Retreat. Oregon, Illinois. Chicago Sky
Liners. March 11-13, 1994. Instructors include George Peters, John Karel,
Emo Wonton, Charlie Sotich, Guy Guercio, Bob Lundstrom, Mike and Willy
Hines, Craig Wilson (kite aerial photography). Contact:
Kathy Horn
15371 Big Mound Road
Lindenwood, IL 61049
Junction Kite Retreat. Junction, Texas (about 2 hours NW of San Antonio).
May 28-31, 1994. For more information, contact:
Betty Street
Department of Art
Box 42081
Texas Tech University
Lubbock, TX 79409-2081 USA
(806) 742-3027 (d), (806) 745-6803 (n), fax (806) 742-3878
Instructors for 1994 are: Nop Velthuizen, Stan Swanson, Mrs. Tokuko
Sato, Takeo Inouye, George Peters, Joe Schiros, Ed Wright, Stretch
Tucker, Martin Lester, Maurizio Angeletti, Doug DuFresne, Charlie
Sotich, Bill Lockhart, Dan Kurahashi, S.N. Adnyana and other Balinese
kitemakers.
Section 8: rec.kites Charter
The following is the rec.kites charter. It was written by Ken
Ritchie (lep...@watsci.uwaterloo.ca)
CHARTER
The group rec.kites will, as its name implies, deal with discussions of
kites and kiting. The discussion will deal with any and all aspects of
kiting with no limitations as to specific types of kites. In general,
possible lines of discussion could be about:
1) Plans and ideas as to how to build kites.
2) Information as to the best places to purchase materials.
3) Tips on flying different kites, and their pro's and con's.
4) Ratings of commercially available kites.
5) Safety and kite flying laws in effect.
6) Anything else to do with kites...
This newsgroup will be of interest to anyone who is interested in
kites and kiting, no matter how serious they are about it. The group
is not to be limited to those who are already experienced in the
sport. It will partially be set-up to introduce people to kiting.
Last revised 11 February 1994.
Section 9: Questions & Answers and Glossary
Q1: What is a kite?
Q2: Where can I get a good kite?
Q3: How does one get started in competitions? Where do I find
rules and how do I learn the figures? How does one find out
the locations?
Q4: Where can I get books on kites?
Q5: What is 3-D flying?
Q6: What are 360's?
Q7: Line Length for Stunt Kites
Q8: Stunt Kite Handles and Line Winders
Q9: Where to get (cheapest) replacement spars for Revolution kites
Q10: Where to get plans for ringelschlange (snake ring)
Q11: I'm interested in kite aerial photography
Q12: What are good beginner stunt kites?
Q13: What are good first time single-line kites?
Q14 : Should I make or buy a kite bag; who makes the best bags?
Q15: What is a wind tamer?
Q16: What is a ghost kite?
Q17: Where can I get event results and conference standings?
Q18: What strength line should I use for my single-line kite?
Q19: I want to start making kites. Where can I get plans and materials?
A. Questions & Answers
Q1: What is a kite?
A kite is a wind-powered, tethered flying object/device.
Kites come in an incredible variety of shapes, colors, and
sizes. The main division between kites has to do with the
number of flying lines, with single and dual lines being the
most common, and quad line kites gaining popularity.
Q2: Where can I get a good kite?
First, try your local yellow pages. Check the Address FAQ.
Ask other kitefliers at your local park. For comments on some
stunt kites, see the Kite Review FAQ.
Q3: How does one get started in competitions? Where do I find
rules and how do I learn the figures? How does one find out
the locations?
In the US, write to the American Kitefliers Association (AKA)
or a local club. The AKA rules book lists the official rules
for competitions and gives many standard figures for precision
flying. See listing of AKA publications in Book section.
See the Address FAQ for a list of AKA-affiliated clubs.
In the rest of the world:
STACK is the world wide association of Stunt Team And Competitive
Kiting, with more than 500 members and national directors in
15 countries. Address listed in Organization section.
Most magazines have a calendar of events which includes stunt kite
competitions. American Kite publishes a wall calendar in its winter
or spring issue which shows dates for most major stunt kite
competitions (the calendar runs March - February).
Talk to local kiteflyers. Join the AKA or another club. Local or
regional events often have novice stunt kite events.
Q4: Where can I get books on kites?
Most kite stores have a selection of books. Mail order
companies also sell books. The most complete, one-stop source
is the Kite Lines Book Store (see Books, Section 5).
Q5: What is 3-D flying?
3-D flying is a technique mostly done with Revs that involves
taking your kite out of the spherical surface it usually flies upon.
The most common trick is a catch-and-throw, which is referred
to as a javelin.
Jeffrey C. Burka (je...@syrinx.umd.edu).
See Jeff's article (how-to, equipment modifications) on 3-D flying
in the archives:
pub/rec/kites/tips/3-d.flying.article.mark-II.
Q6: What are 360's?
A no-wind to very light wind maneuver for stunt kites. The kite
flyer starts by flying the kite to the edge of the window, then the
flyer walks or runs backwards in a big circle while flying the
kite in a circle, from edge of window to upwind and around to the
other window edge. Keep good tension on the lines (and the shorter
they are, the easier that is).
Q7: Line Length for Stunt Kites
What length line to use is determined by a combination of factors:
expertise of flyer; space available for flyers at parks; type of
flying; wind level.
Longer lines (125'-150'+) are used by beginning flyers for longer
reaction times; where the parks are uncrowded and space is not
at a premium; for team flying (more space around and between kites)
or precision flying. Longer lines are heavier, slowing down a kite's
response time and limiting the wind range one can fly in, and more
expensive.
Shorter lines require quicker reflexes. They take up less space, so
more people can fly where flying areas are limited. Shorter lines
are often used in light winds (less weight) or for doing 360s and
other very light wind maneuvers.
Jeffrey C. Burka (je...@syrinx.umd.edu)
Marty Sasaki (sas...@netop3.harvard.edu)
Q8: Stunt Kite Handles and Line Winders
Many novice stunt kite flyers use combination plastic
handles/winders, and the flyer unwinds as much line as desired
for each session. As more kites are acquired (it happens), most
flyers buy a set of handles, and separate sets of lines and winders.
Jeffrey C. Burka (je...@syrinx.umd.edu) writes (with minor edits):
Most folks use a somewhat ergonomic style of kite handles. The
basic shape is a cylinder about 6" long and 1" in diameter with
foam rubber around the outside. There are a number of such products
on the market, including handles from Moran (top and bottom are
tapered and amazingly comfy), AFG (aluminum handles), Shanti (the
SkyClaw -- possibly the single most popular stunt kite handle), and
Premier. Other folks like to use wrist or finger straps (finger
straps are tiny straps big enough to get just a finger or two
through; they're great in very light winds). [Wrist straps may
cause carpal tunnel syndrome.]
What all of these types of 'handles' have in common is that there's
no way to wind line directly on to them. Your line has to be
pre-cut to a certain length in a matching set. Seperate winders
(such as the Shanti Crazy 8, the Moran flat winder, 'Web' winders
from Catch the Wind, Dual Spools, etc.) are then used to store each
set of lines. Most folks will maintain a number of different line
sets in their bags.
Q9: Where to get (cheapest) replacement spars for Revolution kites.
1. Your local kite shop
2. BFK, Rowland Heights, CA. 800-638-5483, Ext. 1569 (orders
only, no technical questions) or 818-912-1272
3. Into the Wind, Boulder, CO. 800-541-0314
Q10: Where to get plans for ringelschlange (snake ring) (Windspiel, a line
toy)
The plans were published in the Feb/March/April '93 issue of
Drachen Magazine (in German). For back issues, check with
American Kite or Drachen (see Magazine section). Post a request
and someone *might* send you a copy of the instructions.
Q11: I'm interested in kite aerial photography.
Check the archives:
pub/rec/kites/tips/kite.aerial.photography
pub/rec/kites/tips/aerial.photography
See the listing for Kite Aerial Photography Worldwide Foundation
in Section 3, Organizations (in Part I).
Post questions.
Q12: What are good beginner stunt kites?
The following was written by Jeffrey Burka (je...@syrinx.umd.edu):
The easiest to learn beginners kite is a diamond
(Powell/trlby/dynakite, etc.) One of the biggest advantages to a
single diamond is the ease with which you can re-launch after a
crash. Kiting can become very frustrating when you have to
keep walking 150' to set up a kite. These kites also verge on
indestructible.
3/4 deltas (Team/Spin-off/Extreme/El Nino/Stinger750 /Wizard,
etc.) might be good 2nd kites, but their increased speed, both
forward and turning, make them harder to learn on (though I
certainly know people who have learned on them). Their lower
pricing (usually between $75 and $130) makes them attractive to
beginners who aren't willing to dump a lot of money into a new
hobby, but this doesn't necessarily mean they're good kites for
beginners.
Full-sized deltas (Spin-Off/Hawaiian Team/Super Sky
Dart/Slingshot/LiteFlite/Phantom/Big Brother, etc.) are a fairly
good place to start, though the price can be inhibiting to a
beginner. However, there are plenty of good full-sized kites
that are good for learning on; slower air speeds, a nice
tendency to never stall, and so on.
With all of these kites, as Marty Sasaki says, it's probably
best to stay away from graphite-framed kites at first, as they
are easier to break.
Q13: What are good first time single-line kites?
Courtesy of Marty Sasaki (sas...@netop3.harvard.edu):
The old fashioned diamond kite that we all made as kids is
probably not the best place to start with single line kites.
These are surprisingly complex and getting one to fly well
requires a large amount of skill (or a lot of luck).
A good quality delta kite is probably a good place to start.
These range from the toy store variety costing a few dollars
to high tech ripstop nylon and graphite stick kites costing
hundreds of dollars. Most will fly well in a variety of wind
conditions.
Another good kite would be a Delta-Conyne, often referred to
as a DC. A DC is a cross between a delta and a box kite.
Dragon kites are also good kites to start on. These consist of
a head, usually arch shapped, and a long tail.
After a bit more experience you might try a box kite of some
sort, or a parafoil. Box kites come in a dazzling number of
designs. Parafoils (and their relatives, flow forms and
strato-scoops) don't have any sticks. They use the air to fill
them and hold them rigid enough to fly.
Q14 : Should I make or buy a kite bag; who makes the best bags?
Most people buy kite bags -- by the time you've paid retail for good
fabric, zipper(s), webbing for straps and handles, and a few pieces
of hardware, you've paid for a good portion of a kite bag.
Most flyers prefer MLD Bags which are available in a wide variety of
sizes and shapes of kite bags and equipment bags from many kite
dealers. TOTL bags are less expensive; comments indicate that
"you get what you pay for" and that they don't hold up as well.
Another source is The Bag Lady, Judy Brown, in Oregon,
at 503-689-8175.
Q15: What is a wind tamer?
A wind tamer is a piece of mesh fabric attached to a stunt kite
to improve handling in higher winds, thus increasing a kite's
wind range. It creates drag, slowing the kite down and decreasing
the kite's pull. Bridle adjustments may be necessary on some kites,
and timing of some maneuvers will be different. Several styles of
tamers are available commercially.
Q16: What is a ghost kite?
It's a triangle of fairly strong spars, the three points of which
mimic the 2-D spatial relationship of the 3 bridle points on a
diamond kite. A bridle is attached to the ghost frame and the frame
is then attached to the lead kite via train lines. (Jeff Burka)
...the main purpose of the ghost is to act as a spreader to better
distribute the load from the train to the bridle lines, and to keep
the lead kite from collapsing under the wind load.... (Dan Rubesh)
Q17: Where can I get event results and conference standings?
The AKA now has a computerized and interactive telephone
information line, the AKA Automated Information System
(408-SEE-4-AKA). It currently has results for the conference
standings for 1993 and 1994 (to-date). Eastern League results
should be available in a few weeks with other circuits and leagues
added in the future.
The phone system also includes information about:
what is the AKA and how to join
what is the convention and '94 and '95 locations
what are the regions
who are the regional directors
what about the insurance; coverage and filing claims
The program was written by Darrin Skinner
(Darrin....@ebay.sun.com), who also enters results into the
system and is planning enhancements.
(Getting results into the system depends on event organizers sending
the results to the conference commissioners who forward them
to Darrin.)
Q18: What strength line should I use for my single-line kite?
Start by calculating the area, in square feet, of lifting surface of
the kite. A rule of thumb is to multiply the area by a factor of 5
to determine breaking strength (factor varies with different designs).
Kite line is usually sold with a breaking or tensile strength rating
(50 pounds,100 pounds, etc.), which is the minimum load that may
cause the line to break. The 'working load' is considerably less than
the breaking strength; numbers vary from 1/6 to 1/2 of the breaking
strength. Knots, the age and the condition of the line may further
reduce the working load.
The amount a knot reduces line strength varies by knot, line type,
and line diameter. Many common knots reduce line strength by
20-40%.
Wind speed may also influence line strength. Each kite will fly in a
range of wind speed, and the line that's appropriate for the bottom
of the range may not be appropriate for the upper end of the range.
If the kite has an adjustable bridle, the bridle can be set to
maximize or minimize pull, which will influence choice of line.
Experience plays a large part in deciding what line to use. Check
what other kite flyers are using. Look in kite catalogs for line
recommendations for similar kites. Decide how much you'll care
if you lose your kite because the line broke (and write your name
and phone number on the kite).
Q19: I want to start making kites. Where can I get plans and materials?
For stunt kite plans, check the Stunt Kite Plan Bibliography (a FAQ)
and the Book Section in Part 1 of this FAQ. Books with single-line
plans are also listed in the Book Section.
Margaret Greger's books are recommended for single-line kites, and
_Stunt Kites to Make and Fly_ by Servaas van der Horst and Nop
Velthuizen for stunt kites.
The Address FAQ has a section for kitemaking supplies.
Talk to local kiteflyers; visit your local kite shop. Join a kite
club (see club listings in the Address FAQ). Check kite magazines
for ads for businesses that sell kitemaking materials. Ask questions
on rec.kites. Browse the archives.
B. Glossary
Spars
These are the framing members of a kite. There are several
types of spars.
Spine
Main Spar
Center Spar
All of the above are names for the spar that runs from the nose
to the tail of a kite. It is usually in the center of the kite;
but some kites (such as the Revolution) have dual spines, and
some have no center spine (such as the Flexi-Foil).
Vertical Spar(s)
Longerons
Spars that run from the top to the bottom of the kite.
Leading Edge Spars
These run along the front edge (called the leading edge) of the
kite.
Cross Spars
Spreader Spars
These run perpendicular to the center spar and keep the kite
spread out. The number of cross spars varies from kite to kite
but is usually one or two.
Stunt kites usually have one or two spreaders. Single line
kites may have many spreaders, or no spreaders, depending on
the design of the kite.
Whiskers
Standoffs
These are small thin spars that run between the trailing edges
(back edge of the kite) and the spreader spars. Their purpose
is to make sure the sail keeps theright shape in light winds.
These are found most often on delta (triangular shaped) stunt
kites.
Sail
Skin
The sail of a kite is the material that covers the spars. Sails
are made from many different materials (see below).
Bridle Lines
The bridle of a kite is a set of short lines that distribute
the attachment of the control line(s) to the kite. The control
line is attached to the bridle point, and then two or more
(usually three) short lines attach to the kite. In stunt kites
the major purpose of a bridle is to allow the kite to be
deformed properly so that it can be steered. It also helps
keep the surface of the kite at the proper angle of attack
(the angle it forms with the direction of the wind) For single
line kites, distributing the load on a very large kite is often
necessary, and a bridle can serve this purpose.
(Please see section on Bridle Adjustments.)
Kite Line
The term "string" doesn't really apply to flying line
when you consider the strengths and the materials used
for flying line.
Stunt Kites use two or more lines to control the direction
and speed of a kite. Stunt kite lines are often made out
of Kevlar or Spectra. See the section on materials for more
information.
Section 10: Materials
A. Sail Material
Ripstop Nylon
This is the most common material used for stunt kites as well
as most single line kites. There are several problems when
working with ripstop, including the difficulty of cutting it
accurately and sewing it. The advantages are its strength and
resistance to tearing. The best way to cut ripstop is with a
"heat knife" or soldering iron. Remember to do the hot cutting
in a well-ventilated area - the fumes are unhealthy.
Ripstop Polyester
Ripstop polyester (or ripstop dacron) is becoming more
common in the kite world. It's main advantage is higher
strength for a given weight. It also stretches less than
nylon. Most common brand name is Icarex.
Nylon Taffeta
Nylon taffeta is often used in single line kites. Taffeta
usually isn't coated and the porosity of the fabric adds
stability to many kite designs.
Tyvek
This is cheaper than ripstop, won't tear, and can be painted.
Tyvek can also be glued and taped easily, unlike ripstop.
Paper
The Japanese and other Asians make strong lightweight paper
that is often used for making kites. Don't be fooled by
"rice paper" which is made for its looks. This paper is
often called "washi". Look for paper that is made out of
long fibers. Tear a piece of it to see how strong it is
(ask before you tear it though).
Construction paper, paper bags, and tissue paper have also
been used for making kites with varying degrees of success.
Plastic Garbage Bags
These are inexpensive, can be found in many colors, and are
easy to work with. Usually simpler kites (sleds, deltas,
and diamonds) are made out of garbage bags, but some people
have made complex box kites out of them.
Mylar
Mylar is usually found as a thin sheet. It can be used in
much the same way that paper is used, but it is lighter and
stronger than most papers. It's main disadvantage is that
once it is torn or cut, it tears very easily. Mylar kites
are usually stuck together using tape since mylar is difficult
to glue and sewing reduces the strength.
B. Spar Material
Solid Fiberglass Rods
These are flexible, very strong, and inexpensive. They are
also fairly heavy. These are often used when flexibility is
an asset, such as in dragon kites. Solid fiberglass is also
used in many small fighter kites in the cross spar.
Fiberglass
Flexible, fairly strong, moderately expensive. A typical
fiberglass tube with outer diameter of 6 mm weighs 30 g/m.
Withstands "unintentional groundwork" better than carbon.
For a given radius, these are stiffer than solid fiberglass
rods.
Poly-carbon Fiber
This material is also known as graphite. Stiffer, more
expensive, but generally preferred. A typical carbon tube with
an outer diameter of 6 mm weighs 20 g/m and has stiffness ("a
measure of the ability to resist deflection by a load") 2.5
times that of fiberglass.
Again, for a given radius, stiffer than fiberglass tubing.
Aluminum
Between fiberglass and graphite for flexibility, and less
expensive than most graphite. It is far stronger than either
fiberglass or graphite.
Dowels
A good material for beginning kite builders.
Arrow shafts
These can be found almost anywhere and come in a wide range of
materials, including wood, graphite, fiberglass, boron, aluminum,
and just about anything else you can think of.
Composite shafts
If the spars listed don't have the combination of flexibility
and strength that a kite requires, combinations of materials
can be purchased. However, these tend to be very expensive.
C. Line Material
Kevlar
Spectra
The basic cores of most stunt kite lines. These are extremely
strong fibers that can vary in breaking strength from 75-1000lb.
They are called "zero stretch lines" because they stretch less
than 4% of their length before breaking. Kevlar is more
sensitive to UV-light than Spectra. One problem with Spectra
is that its melting point is so low that friction against ANY
other type of line will cause it to melt and seperate. It is
still preferred by most stunt kite flyers.
Dacron
Another polymer, which is often used to sheath the core
lines to prevent cutting (most of them are very rough).
Braided Dacron is generally preferred by single line flyers.
Typical stretch is about 15%.
Cotton
Not very strong, but light weight and perfect for small kites.
Cotton line is often preferred for single-line fighter kites.
Fishing line
Small kites, a single monofilament line will often suffice, and
it is readily available in a great variety of weights. For
larger kites, monofilament can be braided into stronger lines.
However, this is not suggested for stunt kites, because it
allows too much stretch for accurate control.
11. Equipment
A. Sewing Machines, Feet, Needles and Thread.
Most machines will perform the basic job of sewing ripstop. The
beginning kitemaker does not need to purchase a new(er) or special
machine just to make kites. Most kitemakers, including many
professionals, use home models, and some use 10-20 year-old
machines to produce award-winning kites.
You should be able to adjust both the top and bottom (bobbin)
tension, that is, top and bottom tension devices should be accessible,
and you should know how to adjust them. If your dealer says "don't
touch the bobbin tension" or "you can't sew on ripstop with a home
machine," find a new dealer. You probably will need to adjust one or
both tension devices for ripstop.
If you are shopping for a new machine, take samples of all the
materials you use (ripstop, dacron reinforcements, webbing) to the
store for testing.
The machine should do straight stitching and zigzag, and have a
reverse; anything else is a nice extra. Some people like a triple
zigzag: 3 diagonal stitches to the right, 3 diagonal stiches to the
left, but you may find this stitch only on expensive machines.
Keep in mind that with computerized machines you can change the
width of the zig zag stitch only by entering the new width, while on
mechanical machines you change the width by turning a dial, an
advantage if you do much detailed applique work.
Ripstop is slippery, and there are a couple of feet which help move
multiple layers through the machine evenly. The first is called a
walking foot, and it grips the fabric from above much the way feed
dogs on the bottom do. It is an accessory foot for most machines,
but some Pfaff models have a built-in walking foot.
The teflon foot (teflon on the bottom of a straight stitch foot) is
another accessory foot that works well with ripstop.
Use 'universal' or 'regular point' needles -- needles for woven
fabric.
Needles come in several sizes, usually labeled with both American (9,
10, 11, 12, 14, 16) and European (65, 70, 80, 90, 100) sizes.
Size 80 (11 or 12 depending on brand) is a good choice for 3/4 oz
ripstop; you might try a size smaller or larger if you're sewing on
1/2 oz or 1-1/2 oz respectively.
If you're sewing through heavier material, such as leading edge
strips, dacron reinforcements, or webbing, use a heavier needle.
Ripstop dulls needles quickly, and dull needles can affect tension.
If you listen to the sound of the needle piercing the fabric, you'll
soon recognize the 'dull needle' noise.
Most kitemakers use dressmakers' polyester thread when sewing
ripstop or tyvek; some use nylon thread, which is more difficult to
locate, or sailmakers' polyester thread (black and white only),
available from sail lofts and a few kite stores.
B. Cutting Tools and Surfaces
Edges of ripstop fabrics need to be sealed by heat, hemmed, bound, or
enclosed in seams to prevent fraying. If you will be hemming,
binding, or enclosing an edge, it isn't necessary to hot cut the
fabric: you can cold cut, which is usually faster. A good tool for
cold cutting is the rotary cutter, which looks like a small pizza
cutter, and is available at most fabric and quilting stores. It can
be used freehand or against a ruler or pattern piece, works best with
straight lines.
For hot cutting, woodburning tools or soldering irons are the usual
choices; buy the highest wattage you can afford for faster cutting.
The preferred surface for hot cutting is glass. Large pieces of
glass are expensive; check with glass dealers or building salvage
yards for used shower doors and windows. Masonite and Formica are
also used, but be careful with very high wattage tools, as there can
be a fine line between cutting the fabric and heat sealing it to
the surface.
12. Bridle Adjustments.
This section was written by Ben Nagata (ki...@busadm1.cba.hawaii.edu)
Kites SHOULD be tuned whenever you have a change of >5-10 Mph.
Bridled kites should be lofted by the fly-line attachment clips so
that they hover right over your head. Putting your index finger right
behind the clips so that the kite is held by the bridle, you ease up (or
down) on BOTH sides by, oh, 1/16" at a time. Make sure that you go in the
same direction with the same increment on both sides at the same time, or
as close as practical. What you are looking for is the greatest pull that is
stable with the accent on pull. You then move the clips to that position and
you are set. Just remember, if you take it out at another time when the
wind conditions are different, you must re-tune!
RE:FLEXIFOILS - Yes, Virginia. You CAN tune flexis - you move the
rubber grommets at the ends of the strut in or out (about 1/8th inch
increments should be about right). Out for lighter winds and more speed, in
for heavier winds and better turning.
On most kites, tuning is a trade-off between (more power, tighter
turns) vs. (lighter winds, broader turns). So, it's a matter of personal
preference. Myself, I like 'WHAMMING', hard pull, lots of power and TIGHT
turns. One other way to achieve this in ADDITION to power tuning is to fly
VERY short lines (I once flew on 40-45' lines). Not real good for a light
wind, but then I find anything less than 25 Mph BORING.
13. Safety
Common Sense. Control. Courtesy.
Whether you are flying alone or in a busy park, the 3 C's are good
words to fly by.
Urban parks are increasingly crowded, with many different activities
competing for access and space. It is each kite flyer's
responsibility to fly safely so that we continue to be welcome at
our favorite windy places.
Stunt kites are very light and can fly very fast, in a suitable wind
the speed can exceed 100 km/h even 100 miles/h! Any device with
such a speed can damage property or injure people. Also the thin line
can cut like a knife (especially Kevlar and Spectra lines!).
If you get in a dangerous situation release ONE HANDLE and walk
towards your kite. Your lines might be tangled, but usually
your kite will not have harmed the environment or itself.
NEVER give a large, hard pulling kite to an inexperienced flyer.
NEVER leave a ready-to-launch kite unattended.
NEVER fly near an airport, except with the permission of the air
traffic controllers. I have not included the appropriate regulations,
because they are different in different countries. Most American
universities -- and I assume other universities -- keep complete
copies of Federal Regulations and Laws (all of them). If you wish to
fly near an airport or at a very high altitude, check with your local
university library or the air traffic controllers.
NEVER fly near power lines (or in electrical storms for the
same reason).
Keep your kites, especially lines and bridles, in good condition;
this will avoid embarrassing and dangerous situations.
Pick up your trash, including bits of line and broken spars.
B. In the Workshop
This section lists a few cautions for working with kite materials.
It is not exhaustive and cannot cover all materials you might use or
the conditions in which you work. The intention is to make you aware
of some safety and health concerns, but you are responsible for
learning about the health hazards of the materials you use.
Inhaling dust (of any kind) is not good for your lungs. Wear a
respirator or dust mask when cutting and sanding spars.
Protect your eyes and hands.
Fiberglass (dust and fibers) can cause dermititis, but not allergic
reactions. Clean up promptly and keep children and pets away from
work area.
Hot cutting ripstop releases noxious fumes. Work in a well-
ventilated area. Make sure that fans or open windows can't blow
anything onto your hot knife.
Resins, especially epoxies, may cause allergic reactions. Some people
are immediately hypersensitive to epoxies, others develop a reaction
over time, and some never have problems. Avoid getting resin on
your skin.