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M1A Disassembly

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Rick

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Jun 10, 2001, 11:06:19 PM6/10/01
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Greetings,

I just purchased an M1A from Springfield and am having problems getting the
operating arm out. It must be something simple that I am missing but I can't
get it!

I removed the spring and guide. All I have left is the operating arm and
bolt.

Thanks for any help.

Rick

------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can learn about rec.guns at http://doubletap.cs.umd.edu/rec.guns

David W

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Jun 13, 2001, 9:55:20 AM6/13/01
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Hello Rick and Group,
I also bought a new Springfield M1A about 6 month ago. I also had quite a
time trying to figure out how to remove the blasted thing too. The
consolation it that it seems to get easier as the rifle breaks in.

Once you remove the operating rod spring and spring guide, slide the
operating rod back and forth in the receiver slot through it's entire
travel. While moving it to and fro place a slight upward pressure on the op
rod (upward as if holding the rifle in firing position). As the op rod gets
close to its full rearward travel you'll feel a slight "catch". Stop at the
position where you feel the catch and pull up and to the right. Viola, it's
out! Sounds easier than it is done but it does get easier.

2 more pieces of advise--if planning on putting a scope on your rifle don't
buy Springfield's 3rd generation scope mount. I was extremely disappointed
in it's performance. Go to Fulton Armory's site and get yourself the
A.R.M.S. mount and rings; you won't be sorry. Second, get yourself the
Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The U.S. .30 Caliber Gas Operated Service Rifles".
It's the most complete book you'll find and will answer ANY question you
have about the M1A.

One more thing; if you disassemble your bolt, you better believe when they
say watch out for the extractor--it will ruin you day if it catches you in
the thumb like mine did.

Take care
Dave

flimflam

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Jun 16, 2001, 9:35:04 PM6/16/01
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I'd like to add something to stripping the bolt. You might want to do
this, simply to clean it. I've only fired a couple of hundred rounds
through mine since it was purchased for me, and I finally stripped it down
to "bare bones", and there was an inordinate amount of "oil" on the firing
pin, and surrounding surfaces. This stuff had hardened to a certain extent,
and was very sticky to the touch. Sorta like sticky shellac---- more
attuned to old WD-40. It also didn't allow the firing pin to move freely.
A slam fire waiting to happen. This was MY fault, for not stripping it
immediately after receiving it, and I was just lucky that something very bad
didn't happen to me while shooting it. I violated one of my cardinal rules
in shooting a new piece--- I didn't clean it thoroughly before shooting it.
Don't be as stupid as me.

--
Flimflam
A-1 Pawn & Jewelry
1925 S.E.Hwy 19
Crystal River, Florida, 34429
352-795-2777
fax: 352-795-2093
flim...@xtalwind.net
www.gunarts.com
URL: http://members3.clubphoto.com/jdavid270383 new stuff to see
http;//www.dangerousbooks.com/at.cgi?a=15286

" If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody is not thinking"
---------- George S. Patton

Clint McKee

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Jun 18, 2001, 1:48:45 AM6/18/01
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Hi Flimflam & Group!

flimflam <flim...@xtalwind.net> wrote in (Stuff Snipped)

# I'd like to add something to stripping the bolt. You might want to do
# this, simply to clean it. I've only fired a couple of hundred rounds
# through mine since it was purchased for me, and I finally stripped it down
# to "bare bones", and there was an inordinate amount of "oil" on the firing
# pin, and surrounding surfaces. This stuff had hardened to a certain
extent,
# and was very sticky to the touch. Sorta like sticky shellac---- more
# attuned to old WD-40. It also didn't allow the firing pin to move freely.
# A slam fire waiting to happen.

*_Excellent*_ post. Many (most-all) firearms manufacturers do NOT lubricate
their products. Rather, they "treat" them with a rust preventative. One
never knows how long an item may sit on the shelf.

Flimlam is *exactly* right in stating that all firearms be stripped,
de-greased and then properly lubed _before_ firing. Unless of course, the
builder does this for you at considerable additional time expense. OTOH, if
you purchase a rifle from a company that takes the time to properly lube a
rifle, then it won't need that service. Ask the people who built your rifle,
as they should know.

Aside from damaging the new firearm, firing pins CAN get sticky in a bolt,
and that most definitely can cause a slam fire. Hazardous to you and your
rifles health.

For more info on the 4 standard issue gas operated US military rifles of the
20th Century, take a weekend at the url below.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the very kind interest.
Clint
Now, with on line ordering!
http://www.fulton-armory.com
http://www.fultonarmory.com

If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of
servitude better than the animating contest of freedom,
go home from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms.
Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your
chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye
were our countrymen. -- Samuel Adams, speech at the
Philadelphia State House, August 1, 1776.

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