Authentic finish on M1 carbine?
Michael Mangum
I refinished the stock on my M1 carbine several years ago using
Birchwood-Casey's "Tru-oil" finish. I want to return the stock to a
more "authentic" finish. My carbine manual states that raw linseed oil
was what was originally used. Is this correct? Secondly, does anyone
know where I can get this stuff? I've checked with a couple of hardware
stores and no one even knows what it is used for.
Thanks for any assistance.
Mike Mangum
Neil Dickey
Michael Mangum wrote:
# I refinished the stock on my M1 carbine several years ago using
# Birchwood-Casey's "Tru-oil" finish. I want to return the stock to a
# more "authentic" finish. My carbine manual states that raw linseed oil
# was what was originally used. Is this correct? Secondly, does anyone
# know where I can get this stuff? I've checked with a couple of hardware
# stores and no one even knows what it is used for.
That's what was recommended for the M1 Garand as well. I don't think
there's a hardware store in the nation where you'll find someone who
knows what raw linseed oil is, let alone where to find it. Look in
an art supply store instead. Artists know what it is, and still use
it. I would recommend a smallish bottle -- a little goes a long way.
By the way: Fresh raw linseed oil is edible, and I usually apply it
to the stock with my fingers, rubbing it in until the stock feels
slightly warm. Then set it away for a day or so, rub with 000 or 0000
steel wool, and do it all again until the stock stops taking the oil.
Finish by buffing with 0000 steel wool.
Boiled linseed oil isn't boiled at all. It's heated at a reduced
pressure, and has heavy metals (Chromium, manganese, or cobalt) added
to reduce the thickening time. I don't apply it with my fingers as
it's not edible.
Best regards,
Neil Dickey
The Gunrunner
Michael Mangum wrote:
#
# Birchwood-Casey's "Tru-oil" finish. I want to return the stock to a
# more "authentic" finish.
No, you do not use "raw" linseed oil. You should use BOILED linseed
oil, found at almost any hardware store. Proper procedure would be to
dip the stock in the warmed oil for 5 minutes, then hang to dry.
Otherwise, simply (after you have stripped and sanded your stock) coat
the stock liberally with the oil - wait 15 minutes - then wipe off. Do
this a few times, then polish with soft cloth.
After a few wars, about a quart of blood and a gallon of sweat, the
stock should about start to look "authentic".
Or, you could send it to us. We charge $45 to $75 to refinish stocks
with an original oil finish.
For info, call us at 1 800 SURVIVAL.
Neil Dickey
The Gunrunner wrote:
# Michael Mangum wrote:
# #
# # I refinished the stock on my M1 carbine several years ago using
# # Birchwood-Casey's "Tru-oil" finish. I want to return the stock to a
# # more "authentic" finish.
# ==================================================================
#
# No, you do not use "raw" linseed oil. You should use BOILED linseed
# oil, found at almost any hardware store. Proper procedure would be to
# dip the stock in the warmed oil for 5 minutes, then hang to dry.
Why on earth should he not use raw linseed oil? Maj. Gen. Julian S.
Hatcher, in "Hatcher's Book of the Garand" includes a chapter near the
end of the book which describes maintenance procedures for the rifle.
There, on the list of materials required, he specifies *raw* linseed
oil in those terms, not boiled. He continues, explaining that the raw
linseed oil is used to keep the stock in good condition and to prevent
cracking.
I myself have used it on several stocks, with excellent results.
There's no reason why it shouldn't be: It works well, and it's
absolutely authentic, according to Hatcher.
# Otherwise, simply (after you have stripped and sanded your stock) coat
# the stock liberally with the oil - wait 15 minutes - then wipe off.
I would be most reluctant to sand a stock, lest I remove or damage any
cartouches, stamps, or the like, which might exist. The most radical
abrasive I use on mine is 000 steel wool, and generally use 0000.
Best regards,
Neil Dickey
P.C. Young
In article <5dt5nv$e...@xring.cs.umd.edu>, Michael Mangum <man...@hal-pc.org> wrote:
#I refinished the stock on my M1 carbine several years ago using
#Birchwood-Casey's "Tru-oil" finish. I want to return the stock to a
#more "authentic" finish. My carbine manual states that raw linseed oil
#was what was originally used. Is this correct? Secondly, does anyone
#know where I can get this stuff? I've checked with a couple of hardware
#stores and no one even knows what it is used for.
#
#Thanks for any assistance.
#
#Mike Mangum
#
Linseed oil is what artists use as a thinner for oils. It's also been used in
wood finishing and rifle stocks. You literally rub it. Most any paint store
should have it. The last time I looked, it came in gallon jugs.
--Pedro
David Basiji
Neil Dickey <ne...@geol.niu.edu> writes:
#I would be most reluctant to sand a stock, lest I remove or damage any
#cartouches, stamps, or the like, which might exist. The most radical
#abrasive I use on mine is 000 steel wool, and generally use 0000.
I'm generally very conservative with abrasives as well, but I've found
that even extremely faint cartouches and stamps will withstand a surprising
amount of abuse. I recently refinished a couple of stocks that are over
100 years old. Each had seen extensive use but no real abuse. As a result,
they were completely covered with shallow scars and dings. Since neither
stock had any light stamps that I could detect, I decided that I'd be a little
more agressive in prepping them. I didn't want them to look completely
refurbished, just a little cleaner. I did a light sanding with 150 grit
(the coarsest grit I've ever used) followed by 220 and 350. I then finished
them, one with oil/varnish/thinner and the other with oil/thinner. Both
had four coats total, with 0000 steel wool between coats. When I was done,
both stocks exhibited cartouches that I had not seen before, either
during the initial cleaning in water or during subsequent sanding steps.
I inspect my stocks very carefully during all stages of prepping for just
this sort of thing and neither one had any really light ones (though they
did have heavily stamped cartouches that I knew would hold up well to
the abrasives.)
One of the stocks did have a large letter scraped into it at some point
by an errant child. I wanted to remove as much evidence of this as possible
so I concentrated on that area with the sanding. Even after I had removed
all tactile evidence of the scrape, it was readily apparent when the wood
was wet due to subsurface grain damage. Apparently, this is what also
preserved the faint cartouches that appeared after finishing. I'm not saying
that it's a good idea to sand heavily before finishing, but that with experience
you can identify what types of damage will succumb to abrasives and what
won't. Fortunately, it seems that some cartouches will put up with a lot.
Best Regards,
Dave
--
David A. Basiji bas...@u.washington.edu
http://weber.u.washington.edu/~basiji (206) 616-1549
UW Bioengineering/Molecular Biotechnology
"I don't speak for the University of Washington."
Robin
# I then finished
# them, one with oil/varnish/thinner and the other with oil/thinner. Both
# had four coats total, with 0000 steel wool between coats.
I would like more information on exactly how you make the finishes you
describe.
Thanks, Robin
David Basiji
It's pretty simple. The oil finish is simply a mixture of boiled linseed
oil and odorless paint thinner. For the initial coats, I use two parts
thinner to one part oil. For later coats I use equal parts thinner and
oil. Coat the wood liberally, wait 10 minutes, coat it again, wait again,
and then rub off the excess with a cloth or paper towels (which must
be soaked in water before discarding). Let dry 24 hours and then
go over the wood with 0000 steel wool. Clean off all the steel wool dust
with a clean towel and recoat the wood with the finish. After two or three
coats, use the equal parts mixture until you reach the desired lustre.
Finish the job with a final sanding using the 0000 steel wool.
The varnish mixture for initial coats is two parts thinner, one part
boiled linseed oil, and one part gloss spar varnish. I like the
"Man O'War" brand, but any spar varnish will do. Later coats are
equal parts thinner, oil, and varnish. Apply exactly as above.
Both procedures will give you a light satin finish and protect the wood
nicely, particularly if you use the varnish. The varnish will impart
more hardness and water resistance but I don't use it if the original
finish on the wood didn't use varnish.
I use a chinese soup spoon to measure the ingredients directly into
a large pie tin. Then I use a brush to mix the components until I don't
see any density striations. The stock can be rested right in the pie
tin (or cookie sheet or whatever) and the finish brushed on heavily.
The overrun will simply drip back into the pie tin. Do not save the
unused portion. Remix a new batch for each coat. You should have plenty
of clean terrycloth rags on hand, as well, since you'll consume them
pretty quickly. In fact, you'll spend more on rags than on finish. I
find that I typically only need a total of about four to five tablespoons
of finish per coat. It works out to a total cost of about $1 in oil,
thinner and varnish to completely refinish a stock. I buy the smallest
container of spar varnish for about $5. A quart of thinner or linseed
oil should run less than $4 each.
Hope this helps,
Dave
Mike Smoot
The stuff I see in hardware stores is usually boiled linseed oil, which
dries hard and glossy. Raw oil stays damp and soaks into the wood.
P.C. Young <pyo...@odin.cair.du.edu> wrote in article
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