Estimated cost of reloading equipment
Elka BONG
be starting off reloading only 9mm pistol rounds which is the round that I
used most by a wide margin.
I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
road equipment or maybe slightly better. I won't buy beginners junk that
I'll want to repllace in 3 months. Neither will I but the latest and greatet
zircon encrusted turret press with platinum handle.
I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
considered a good investment?
I'm also curious to know the incremental cost of adding a second caiber.
I'd continue to but calibers like 8mm mauser which is still dirt cheap.
Thanks in advance
Frank
-----------------------------------------------------------
Learn about rec.guns at http://www.recguns.net
Win a Fulton Armory "Classic" AR-15 with Black Hills Ammo
while supporting our RKBA. Details at http://www.myguns.net
-----------------------------------------------------------
Windad
one caliber including both pistol and rifle, and not wanting to take out a
second mortgage. In my case reloading is required to make competitive
shooting possible. My first choice is .45, with later moves to .38, 5.56,
and maybe 30-06. I have an old single stage Rock Chucker, but it isn't up
to snuff to produce the 200 or so rounds needed each week just for club
pistol matches. So I've been looking around, too.
The good news - you can do it. The bad news - it is expensive. A Dillon
turret press able to turn out one round per crank in both pistol and rifle
calibers, with the necessary accessories, is going to land around $800 -
$900. There is a price jump when you need a machine to do both pistol and
rifle. If you already have the accessories, like scales, tumblers, reamers,
etc. you can get by for less. And then of course you need powder, bullets,
primers, lube, etc. If you are a prolific shooter the cents per round
numbers will work out for you, and you will absolutely enjoy using high
quality ammo tailored for you and your guns. Maybe that is the best part.
Anyway, good luck to you. I'm going to take a deep breath and take the
plunge. Maybe this week or next. See you at the range.
"Elka BONG" <fran...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:fss5mm$mn3$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
chasw
and only those you are sure you exactly what you need, when you need it.
Below is my laundry list of necessary equipment. And, yes, Lee equipment is
good equipment and will do the job quite nicely. I suggest you start off
with an inexpensive single stage press and a set of Lee dies, a scale, a
scoop-measure set and a Lyman reloading manual. From there you can add more
tools and equipment as your preferences develop. Good luck and bring your
questions here - CW
INTRODUCTION
Anyone starting up their reloading hobby may wonder what to buy in the way
of equipment and where to get it. The variety is bewildering and beginners
frequently can’t tell what is what because of the technical terminology.
Below is my recommended list of favorite tools of the trade. There are other
choices, I’ve simply listed those I like and am most familiar with. The list
changes a bit if you start with a progressive press, e.g., special dies and
powder measures. Prices are current as of mid 2002, rounded off to the
nearest dollar. They vary widely so its worthwhile to shop around via the
web search for the best prices. Its free advice, so take it for what its
worth.
If your budget is limited, I suggest you go for the low priced tools.
Everything I’ve listed here is useful and cost effective, in my opinion. For
example, starting off with an inexpensive single stage press and later
buying a high end progressive is a smart move. Single stage presses can do
some things better than progressives. Few reloaders regret having one. You
are far better off buying the minimum set of tools you need, even one at a
time as the need arises, rather than buying a kit that contains at least
some tools you don’t like and therefore don’t get used.
Note: Items 1 through 16 are required for safe, efficient reloading. Items
17 and 18 are optional. You only need a case trimmer and chamfering tool if
you reload rifle cartridges. Pistol cartridges don’t stretch. As a rule only
rifle cases need to be lubed before sizing, straight wall pistol cases are
sized without lube in carbide dies. A case cleaner and chronograph are
useful but not strictly necessary.
TOOLS
1. Reloading presses, the basic tool required for all types of metallic
cartridge reloading.
• Lee Hand Press, designed for use without a bench, $14
• Lee Challenger, a solid C-type press, $27
• RCBS Rockchucker, the old standard, heavy duty C-type, $106 (recently
upgraded to a larger model)
• Hornady LocknLoad Classic, similar to Rockchucker but with QD die changes,
$107
• Dillon RL550B semi progressive including 1 shell plate, $329
• Hornady LocknLoad AP full progressive including 1 shell plate, $353
Note: Rockchucker presses will accept the LocknLoad QD bushings with a
simple conversion kit @ $15. Hornady LocknLoad bushings are $34 for a pack
of 10. One bushing required per die. LocknLoad is a very useful feature that
enables you to adjust your dies once and never again, bullet seating stem
excepted, just snap them in and out as needed.
2. Shellholders. Each brand of single stage press tends to have its own type
of shellholder, however some are interchangeable. They are cartridge
specific. Cost is approx $6 each.
3. Dies: RCBS, Hornady, Forster or Lee dies for each caliber
• Bottleneck rifle cartridges, approx $25 for 2-die sets
• Straight wall pistol cartridges, approx $35 for 3 die sets including a
carbide sizer
Note: If you are buying a die set for an autoloading pistol cartridge, be
sure it includes a 4th taper crimp die, otherwise buy an extra taper crimp
die from Lyman (or others), $15. Bottleneck rifle cartridges should not be
crimped, except for the heaviest calibers, in which case the Lee factory
crimp die is recommended.
4. Powder measures. Used for repeating the same charge many times.
• Lee scoop set (works quite well), $6
• Lee Perfect drum type with stand, $19
• RCBS Uniflow powder measure or Lyman equivalent, including stand and
micrometer adjustment stem, approx $120
5. Powder scales. Necessary to calibrate/confirm weight of charge from a
measure.
• RCBS 505 traditional beam-type scale, $68
• RCBS Partner battery electronic scale, $135
• RCBS (Micor) Prodigital battery and AC electronic scale, $140
• RCBS Power Pro AC electronic scale $184
Note: Lyman and Hornady also make excellent beam and electronic scales in
the same price ranges.
6. RCBS (or Lyman) dial calipers (necessary for measuring case and overall
length), $38 for plastic and $55 for steel. I have a Lyman plastic job, its
easy to use and amazingly accurate to .001".
7. Lee Autoprime hand priming tool, $10. Requires cartridge specific
shellholders, $2 (I recommend getting a full set for $12). Note: I much
prefer hand priming to priming with a press, and of all the hand primers,
Lee’s Autoprime is the one I like best.
8. Lyman (or other brand) primer pocket reamer w/ handle, sizes for large
and small primer pockets, $8 each size. Used for initial uniforming of the
pocket then for cleaning after each depriming. The one I have (can’t recall
where I got it) is carbide tipped to cleanly cut brass but it lacks a
handle, therefore, its tiring to the fingers when cleaning a 100 primer
pockets in a row. Look for one with removable tool steel cutters and a
handle. Actually, primer pockets on rifle cases are slightly deeper than on
pistol cases, therefore to do it right for all type cases, you need 4 sizes
of cutters. Some people don’t feel the need to uniform or clean pockets, it’s
a matter of choice. I have a feeling it contributes to good accuracy.
9. RCBS (or other brand) powder funnel, $4, used when pouring powder charges
directly from the scale.
10. MTM large size, universal loading blocks, $4 each, each holds 50 cases
for powder charging. Note, if you have an oddball cartridge with a bigger
base that doesn’t fit these standard blocks, .e.g., 7.62X54 Russian, make
your own block out of an 18" length of 2X4 making blind holes drilled with a
hole saw bit and your electric hand drill.
11. MTM plastic ammo boxes, $1 to $3 each, depending on size. Many sizes and
shapes, the ideal way to store and transport your loaded ammo.
12. RCBS or Quinetics hammer-style bullet puller, $25. Everybody makes
mistakes. When its small quantities, these inertia type pullers do the job
nicely.
13. Lyman reloading handbook no 47, very useful for recommended loads and
other reloading advice, $20. Note: Most of the reloading manuals are
published by bullet and powder makers. The only ones I know if that are
independent of particular brands of components are the Lyman and Lee’s. I’ve
always relied solely on the Lyman, but I hear good things about the Lee
manual too.
14. Manual case trimmer (needed for rifle cases only), sort of a miniature
hand lathe
• RCBS kit, $72
• Redding kit, $62
• Hornady kit, $62
• Lyman universal trimmer, $55
• Forster Original trimmer, $44
Note: For some reason, I really dislike trimming case. I have a Lyman
universal but it won’t hold an adjustment, therefore my trim-to lengths are
not uniform. I’m sure one of the others is better in this regard, but not
sure just which one. Forster has a good reputation. Suggest you check the
web sites and choose based on the design. Power trimmers are available at
double the cost but not convinced they would make this task any less
onerous.
15. Lyman (or other brand) case mouth chamfering and deburring tool (needed
before and after rifle case trimming), $10.
16. RCBS spray case lube (for sizing rifle cases), $5. You lay your cleaned
cases on a sheet of paper, spray, roll sideways a bit, spray again, and you’re
ready to size. Much better than applying goop individually with your
fingers.
17. Hornady (or Lyman) vibrating, large-size, case cleaner, $70. Also, Lyman
plain corn cob media, 10 lbs @ $15 goes a long way. Two hours with corn cob
and they come out shiny and clean. The treated walnut leaves the brass
coated with abrasive gunk the gets into your dies. Cases should be clean
before sizing to keep your dies from wearing. You could use soap and water
but these vibrating tub machines are so much easier. Its easy to fish out
the cleaned cases with your fingers, no problem.
18. Chronograph: Shooting Chrony, PACT, Competitive Edge Dynamics and others
make relatively inexpensive, accurate chronographs in the $100 to $300
range. Check out their web sites for features and buy direct. I like the
Shooting Chrony with the remote display, but then my needs are modest.
Tripods are not included and you need to be carefule or you can spend more
on the tripod than the chrony. Check chrony makers web sites and camera
shops for something cheap and relatively sturdy that screws into the bottom
of the chronograph. The chronograph is a nice to have tool for load
development, using bullet velocity, powder burning rate and bullet weight to
gauge pressure and avoid maximums.
COMPONENTS
• Brass: I buy Winchester most often, but Remington and Federal are just as
good. Federal also makes "match grade" brass in selected calibers. Starline
and Bertram make good brass for some odd cartridges. Lapua and Norma also
make excellent brass at higher prices. Most other foreign makers are not in
the same league, with some occasional exceptions.
• Powder: I rely exclusively on Winchester, Alliant, IMR and Hodgden
powders. The first three are the only domestic companies who actually make
their own powders (IMR is made in Canada). Hodgden outsources everything
(many from Winchester) but does a good job anyway. The others are also OK,
but with so many to choose from, I find myself always coming back to the old
favorites, particularly Winchester and IMR.
• Primers: Winchester and Federal are outstanding. The others do OK too, but
I tend to stick to what I am confident in and familiar with. BTW, I rank
large rifle primers by their power. Fed 210M for cartridges with capacities
in the range of 40 grains or less, WLR for cases in the 60 grain range, Fed
215 for cartridges in the 80 grain range and WLRM when you need all the heat
money can buy. Substitute the corresponding primer numbers for small or
pistol applications
• Jacketed Bullets: Nosler Ballistic Tips are the most accurate rifle
bullets I know, although I have not yet tried Berger and the other benchrest
suppliers. Barnes, Sierra and Hornady are also top drawer. Winchester’s Fail
Safe and Ballistic Silvertip are up there, plus the long list of specialty
hunting bullet makers like Swift and Trophy Bonded, outstanding quality for
a premium price. I like the idea that Winchester makes all four cartridge
components: brass, powder, primer and jacketed bullets; a company that fully
supports reloading.
• Cast Bullets: Cast Performance Bullet Co, Western Bullet Co., Dry Creek
Bullet Works and Lead Head Bullets all make premium commercial cast bullets
for reloaders interested in accuracy. If you choose to cast your own, you
can find just about anything you want in the way of molds, including
6-holers, from NEI Handtools, Inc. Check out the designs on the web but
order by phone so they can customize the mold to your particular alloy and
sized diameter. Really nice people to deal with.
• .22 Rimfire: Although its not reloading, I can’t help but recommend RWS
R50s @ $12/box of 50 for high priced accuracy and Winchester Wildcats @
$11/brick for low priced accuracy. For 1/10th the price, its amazing how
close the latter is to the former, at least in my experience.
SOURCES:
Equipment and components are available from various mail order sources. I
prefer Graf and Sons, www.grafs.com. There are other good suppliers
including Midway and Cabela’s, but I keep coming back to Grafs for good
prices, outstanding availability and excellent customer service. F&M
Reloading Equipment, www.fmreloading.com, carries the full line of Lee tools
at the very best prices. Lee makes really good, inexpensive tools. If you
need cases, bullets or dies for an unusual cartridge, contact Huntington Die
Specialties at www.huntingtons.com. Buying via the web with a credit card is
the preferred method, but sometimes a phone call can explore availability
when the web site does not confirm it.
IN SUMMARY
Always be careful in your methods. Reloading, mixed with carelessness, can
be downright dangerous to your heath and safety. Stay clear of maximum loads
and watch seating depth in high-pressure pistol cases. Most especially do
not let your concentration wander while charging cases, most real troubles
start right there. Best of luck in your search for ultimate accuracy. Let me
know if I can assist further - CW
"Elka BONG" <fran...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:fss5mm$mn3$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
-----------------------------------------------------------
Roger
> ...
assuming you are going to be loading a fair amount of rounds and don't
want to spend a huge amount of time doing it. I would suggest the Lee
Classic Cast press. Including components to you should be able to get
in for under $300. for costs I would suggest you contact Sue at:
She can tell you what you need and how much it will cost. they also
handle other MFG presses and dies.
Ron Bloom
# be starting off reloading only 9mm pistol rounds which is the round that I
# used most by a wide margin.
#
# I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
# outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
# road equipment or maybe slightly better. I won't buy beginners junk that
# I'll want to repllace in 3 months. Neither will I but the latest and
# greatet
# zircon encrusted turret press with platinum handle.
#
# I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
# considered a good investment?
#
# I'm also curious to know the incremental cost of adding a second caiber.
#
# I'd continue to but calibers like 8mm mauser which is still dirt cheap.
Matters who's equipment you buy. If you buy Dillon, it will keeps its
value. You can never lose.
--
Ron Bloom
Sic Semper Tyrannis - Thus Always to Tyrants
Collector of Military Curio & Relic Firearms
Omelet
"Elka BONG" <fran...@verizon.net> wrote:
# The high cost of ammo has finally convinced me to start reloading. I would
# be starting off reloading only 9mm pistol rounds which is the round that I
# used most by a wide margin.
#
# I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
# outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
# road equipment or maybe slightly better. I won't buy beginners junk that
# I'll want to repllace in 3 months. Neither will I but the latest and greatet
# zircon encrusted turret press with platinum handle.
#
# I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
# considered a good investment?
#
# I'm also curious to know the incremental cost of adding a second caiber.
#
# I'd continue to but calibers like 8mm mauser which is still dirt cheap.
#
# Thanks in advance
#
# Frank
Are you looking at single stage or progressives?
My initial outlay for single stage and 3 sets of dies was around $400.00
but that included a tumbler and media, powder scale, powder measures,
OAL calipers, etc. I later spent another $200.00 for some extra stuff
including powder and primers and more tumbling media and more dies.
Use the tax rebate coming in May. ;-)
--
--
Peace! Om
"Thousands of years ago, cats were worshipped as gods. They have never
forgotten this." - Heinlein
Pea Shooter
boxes, on average, to just break even assuming a very modest $300
investment.
Extra calibers will require die sets, $30 and up, and probably
different primers, powder, and definitely projectiles.
9mm is usually the cheapest ammo on the market, so there might not be
a cost justification if that's the only caliber you'll be doing. It'll
be cheaper to buy in bulk.
On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 02:12:38 +0000 (UTC), "Elka BONG"
<fran...@verizon.net> wrote:
#The high cost of ammo has finally convinced me to start reloading. I would
#be starting off reloading only 9mm pistol rounds which is the round that I
#used most by a wide margin.
#
#I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
#outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
#road equipment or maybe slightly better. I won't buy beginners junk that
#I'll want to repllace in 3 months. Neither will I but the latest and greatet
#zircon encrusted turret press with platinum handle.
#
R.L. Horn
wrote:
# The high cost of ammo has finally convinced me to start reloading.
# I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
# outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
# road equipment or maybe slightly better.
I reckon you can get in with a good quality equipment (single-stage) for
under $300.
# I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
# considered a good investment?
I use, and have been perfectly happy with, plenty of Lee equipment, but I
think you can't beat a good, solid press. RCBS Rock Chuckers can be had for
under $150 new and you'll always be able to find a use for one.
Having said that, if the budget's tight, a Lee kit is hard to beat. Either
the "50th Anniversary" or "Breech Lock Challenger" kit could be a good way
to start (and MSRP is only $128 and $145 respectively).
Best advice, I believe, would be to get a reloading manual first (better
yet, if possible, go down to the library and get several). Once you're well
acquainted with the procedures, you can more easily make purchasing
decisions.
# I'm also curious to know the incremental cost of adding a second caliber.
Not counting components, it needn't be any more than the price of another
set of dies and (maybe) shellholder.
Al Patrick
Start here: http://www.realguns.com/archives/122.htm Read to the bottom and then read the next two articles as well. Very impressive and educational on the Lee equipment.
I have a Lee catalog on the way to my mail box. Contact them at:
Lee Precision, Inc.
4275 HIGHWAY U
HARTFORD WISCONSIN 53027
262-673-3075 Voice
262-673-9273 FAX
I'm interested in getting started also. Asked a few questions a while back and the general answer was get several loading manuals and compare your needs to the productivity and costs of the equipment.
So far it looks like Lee is the way for a new loader to go.
You'll need to buy your powder and primers locally as UPS charges $20 for a HazMat fee for any order of either. If you order 6 8# jugs of powder (48#) I don't know if they'd charge you one fee or $20 per jug / package??? Anyway, the idea was to buy small containers (? 1#) to find out what you want and then buy in quantity - if you have to go mail order - to reduce the HazMat fee. This is another reason to read up on reloading first to see what you'd probably need for your particular loads. Actually 1# will load a LOT of small cartridges. Only reason to buy quantity is slight cost savings and save hazmat fees. Therefore, locally, if available.
Check out http://www.reloadbench.com and you'll find a world of info.
Don't hurry. Read first. Order several catalogs. Lee seems to not only be the cheaper of the ways to start but their dies, etc. seem to also be more economical to add.
You might start here, their online catalog: http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1207048610.1435=/html/catalog/index.html
They also have links to some good mail order dealers of which Midway has been favorable mentioned by several folks.
OH, Your question! ;-) It depends on the amount of reloading you want to do and how fast you want to turn out the ammo. You can start with about a $20 - $30 loader or you can get very fast and automated. I'm looking at several of the kits from about $100 up. Actually leaning toward the Lee Classic Turret (not available in kit form) and adding the kit accessories of the Deluxe Turret kit (not quite as substantial as the Classic). Their top of the line seems to be the Load-Master which you can get mail order for around $250 for reloading one size. This would allow you to add other calibers one at the time and pretty well automate the whole process.
It still would not be as fast as Dillon and some of the others, but the price would be MUCH less and you could produce all the ammo you'd need for a month in just an hour or so. CAUTION: The more automation the greater the learning curve - and the more things that *could* go wrong. Some will recommend starting simple and then progression. It depends on whether you'll read instructions first, etc. ;-) Don't let MSRP scare you. Check Midway and other dealers shown online. Lee equipment seems to go for as much as about 1/3 off mail order.
Hope this helps,
Al
=================
Elka BONG wrote:
# The high cost of ammo has finally convinced me to start reloading. I would
# be starting off reloading only 9mm pistol rounds which is the round that I
# used most by a wide margin.
#
# I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
# outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
# road equipment or maybe slightly better. I won't buy beginners junk that
# I'll want to repllace in 3 months. Neither will I but the latest and greatet
# zircon encrusted turret press with platinum handle.
#
# I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
# considered a good investment?
#
# I'm also curious to know the incremental cost of adding a second caiber.
#
# I'd continue to but calibers like 8mm mauser which is still dirt cheap.
#
# Thanks in advance
#
# Frank
professorpaul
then supplemented it with the other stuff I needed - mostly gauges, a
set of calipers, bullet molds and sizer. I was able to pick up some
stuff of ebay, and a friend gave me some dies. I do .38 SPL/.357
Magnum, 9mm, and .45 ACP. With a single stage press, I admit to it not
being fast, but why are you in a hurry? <grin>. I'm not sure 9mm is
worth the trouble, but .38 SPL loads are a snap, and clearly more
accurate than commercial stuff. I split the task over two evenings --
case prep one night, and loading the other. Do the bullets in batches
out on the back deck to avoid fumes, etc.
Omelet
"R.L. Horn" <ne...@eastcheap.org> wrote:
# On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 02:12:38 +0000 (UTC), Elka BONG <fran...@verizon.net>
# wrote:
#
# # The high cost of ammo has finally convinced me to start reloading.
#
# # I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
# # outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
# # road equipment or maybe slightly better.
#
# I reckon you can get in with a good quality equipment (single-stage) for
# under $300.
#
# # I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
# # considered a good investment?
#
# I use, and have been perfectly happy with, plenty of Lee equipment, but I
# think you can't beat a good, solid press. RCBS Rock Chuckers can be had for
# under $150 new and you'll always be able to find a use for one.
#
# Having said that, if the budget's tight, a Lee kit is hard to beat. Either
# the "50th Anniversary" or "Breech Lock Challenger" kit could be a good way
# to start (and MSRP is only $128 and $145 respectively).
#
# Best advice, I believe, would be to get a reloading manual first (better
# yet, if possible, go down to the library and get several). Once you're well
# acquainted with the procedures, you can more easily make purchasing
# decisions.
#
# # I'm also curious to know the incremental cost of adding a second caliber.
#
# Not counting components, it needn't be any more than the price of another
# set of dies and (maybe) shellholder.
IME with Lee, the shell holder comes with the die set.
--
--
Peace! Om
"Thousands of years ago, cats were worshipped as gods. They have never
forgotten this." - Heinlein
Clark Magnuson
Jason
which was the main reason I got it). For precision rifle reloading its
absolutely perfect. I have a ridiculous amount of control on every
single stage of the reloading process (assuming you've already done
the case media separation and cleaning).
I love my rock chucker for my 308 and 30-06 (I save a bit of money on
bullets from hunting season as well... reloading 20 rounds for around
8 bucks instead of the 25 they want at the local gun store).
RCBS is as amazing of a company as Leupold is. Leupold completely
rebuilt my scope after I accidentally messed it up at no cost... well
RCBS replaced 3 parts I accidentally lost in a move between houses.
When I asked what the bill would be on the replaced parts
(manufacturing cost was probably around 20 dollars) the woman on the
phone laughed and said "whats your address?"
RCBS does make progressive presses which I would probably buy if I was
going to be doing heavy reloading (like you will with a .45 or 9mm).
Take a look at them because for the price, quality and customer
service you cant beat them.
Herb Leong
#outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
#road equipment or maybe slightly better. I won't buy beginners junk that
#I'll want to repllace in 3 months. Neither will I but the latest and greatet
#zircon encrusted turret press with platinum handle.
You don't really save any money. You just end up with more ammo to shoot.
#I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
#considered a good investment?
Some people turn their noses up at a Lee, but IF you don't abuse it, a
Lee press will last a very long time. This from a Dillon 550 and RCBS
RC2 owner who has friends with Lee reloaders.
#I'm also curious to know the incremental cost of adding a second caiber.
Depends. For most single stage presses, it's the cost of the dies and a
shellholder. For a progressive, you pay for a few more parts.
If you are cost conscious, then make sure you don't buy duplicate parts.
Just keep in mind that many calibers have dimensions in common and use
the same shell holders/plates. Like .45 ACP, .30-'06, and .308 win all
have the same head size and use the same shell holder/plate.
/herb
Long Ranger
# but that included a tumbler and media, powder scale, powder measures,
# OAL calipers, etc. I later spent another $200.00 for some extra stuff
# including powder and primers and more tumbling media and more dies.
#
# Use the tax rebate coming in May. ;-)
Excellent idea. That way, we would have at least one instance whereby we are
using federal funds for something that might actually save our nation some
day, as opposed to the daily funding of the breakdown of our nation. Only a
symbolic move in it's effect, but it makes me happy to think of it that way.
petey
#
# accurate than commercial stuff. I split the task over two evenings --
# case prep one night, and loading the other. Do the bullets in batches
# out on the back deck to avoid fumes, etc.
Lay off the bean burritos for dinner if the fumes bother you.
Alf Sauve
Thanks for the RealGuns link. Good thing too, as I ordered one on Monday from Midway. It was delivered today. What a surprise, I didn't realize the Lee Turret was also a progressive.
I've had a Herter's (now out of business) single stage press for almost 40 years. It's served me well but then my max rate was 100 rounds a month. I'm starting to shoot more and I have more calibers so the turret seemed the ideal solution.
Alf
.38spl/.357mag/.357max
.44spl
.45acp
.40s&w
.338federal
.243winchester
"Al Patrick" <a...@vance.net> wrote in message news:fsurlr$nvg$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
Omelet
"Long Ranger" <lorp...@earthlink.net> wrote:
# # My initial outlay for single stage and 3 sets of dies was around $400.00
# # but that included a tumbler and media, powder scale, powder measures,
# # OAL calipers, etc. I later spent another $200.00 for some extra stuff
# # including powder and primers and more tumbling media and more dies.
# #
# # Use the tax rebate coming in May. ;-)
#
#
# Excellent idea. That way, we would have at least one instance whereby we are
# using federal funds for something that might actually save our nation some
# day, as opposed to the daily funding of the breakdown of our nation. Only a
# symbolic move in it's effect, but it makes me happy to think of it that way.
Depending on my financial status in May, I'll most likely use that
money for my "hobby" as well...
--
--
Peace! Om
"My mother never saw the irony in calling me a Son of a Bitch."
-- Jack Nicholson
Al Patrick
Glad to be of help. I was highly impressed with the articles as well and repost just the first paragraph for others interested in getting started and considering Lee equipment.
"Start here: http://www.realguns.com/archives/122.htm Read to the bottom and then read the next two articles as well. Very impressive and educational on the Lee equipment."
Al
jadel
# # My initial outlay for single stage and 3 sets of dies was around $400.00
# # but that included a tumbler and media, powder scale, powder measures,
# # OAL calipers, etc. I later spent another $200.00 for some extra stuff
# # including powder and primers and more tumbling media and more dies.
# #
# # Use the tax rebate coming in May. ;-)
#
# Excellent idea. That way, we would have at least one instance whereby we are
# using federal funds for something that might actually save our nation some
# day, as opposed to the daily funding of the breakdown of our nation. Only a
# symbolic move in it's effect, but it makes me happy to think of it that way.
Much of the rebate will most likely have gone into the gas tank before
May, or will shortly thereafter.
J. Del Col
Rex
# Alf,
#
# Glad to be of help. I was highly impressed with the articles as well and repost just the first paragraph for others interested in getting started and considering Lee equipment.
#
# "Start here: http://www.realguns.com/archives/122.htm Read to the bottom and then read the next two articles as well. Very impressive and educational on the Lee equipment."
That is an excellent site, thanks to you or whoever posted it first.
pro...@ca.rr.com
# The high cost of ammo has finally convinced me to start reloading. I would
# be starting off reloading only 9mm pistol rounds which is the round that I
# used most by a wide margin.
#
# I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
# outlay will be. Let's go ahead and assume that I'd be buying middle of the
# road equipment or maybe slightly better. I won't buy beginners junk that
# I'll want to repllace in 3 months. Neither will I but the latest and greatet
# zircon encrusted turret press with platinum handle.
#
# I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
# considered a good investment?
#
#
# I'd continue to but calibers like 8mm mauser which is still dirt cheap.
#
# Thanks in advance
#
# Frank
Hi Frank,
The prices you've been given for the gear you'll need are kind of
high. My rig is similar to the afore mentioned equipment. I paid
roughly 60% of the prices quoted. I went through ebay and bought my
components seperately. All new. One here, 2 there kinda thing. Saved
a lot of green on gear which translates into better bullets, powder
and primers.
You are gonna love the increased accuracy through custom loading. I'm
getting much tighter groups since I started reloading. Might just
have to try out that bulls-eye shooting. Very sad. ;) Don't even get
me started on increased rifle accuracy!
Hope this helps.
Trumpet
Al Patrick
# On Mar 31, 7:12 pm, "Elka BONG" <franci...@verizon.net> wrote:
# # The high cost of ammo has finally convinced me to start reloading. I would
# # be starting off reloading only 9mm pistol rounds which is the round that I
# # used most by a wide margin.
# #
# # I'd like to know what experienced reloaders estimate my initial financial
# # road equipment or maybe slightly better. I won't buy beginners junk that
# # I'll want to repllace in 3 months. Neither will I but the latest and greatet
# # zircon encrusted turret press with platinum handle.
# #
# # I looked at Lee's site and saw some "all inclusive" type kits. Are those
# #
# # I'm also curious to know the incremental cost of adding a second caiber.
# #
# # I'd continue to but calibers like 8mm mauser which is still dirt cheap.
# #
# # Thanks in advance
# #
#
# Hi Frank,
#
# The prices you've been given for the gear you'll need are kind of
# high. My rig is similar to the afore mentioned equipment. I paid
# roughly 60% of the prices quoted. I went through ebay and bought my
# components seperately. All new. One here, 2 there kinda thing. Saved
# a lot of green on gear which translates into better bullets, powder
# and primers.
#
# You are gonna love the increased accuracy through custom loading. I'm
# getting much tighter groups since I started reloading. Might just
# have to try out that bulls-eye shooting. Very sad. ;) Don't even get
# me started on increased rifle accuracy!
#
# Hope this helps.
#
#
# Trumpet
Trumpet,
You don't have to piece mill it to get roughly 30 - 35% off Lee's MSRP. On their site is a list of mail order places of which Midway & Kempf have been recommended here. I think they both offer roughly 1/3 off. $150 kits approx. $100. They both, I think, carry other brands as well in case you want to compare. ...along with other loading necessities. Midsouth seems to have very reasonable prices also. I mention them because they're only 1 state away from me.
Cabela's is the *only* place that I know of who has made a kit out of the Lee Classic Turret Loader. $165. I haven't added up the costs of the individual pieces at the other mail order firms. The "Classic" is a better, tougher press than the "deluxe" Lee offers in kit form.
Al
C & E
"Windad" <mm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:fst3fm$44g$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
# I'm in a position like you - needing to reload, wanting to load more than
# one caliber including both pistol and rifle, and not wanting to take out a
# second mortgage. In my case reloading is required to make competitive
# shooting possible. My first choice is .45, with later moves to .38, 5.56,
# and maybe 30-06. I have an old single stage Rock Chucker, but it isn't up
# to snuff to produce the 200 or so rounds needed each week just for club
# pistol matches. So I've been looking around, too.
#
<snip>
Another option for upgrading the Rock Chucker is to add a Piggback for your
pistol calibers and rifle calibers not longer than the 223. I've been doing
this for years and I'm pretty satisfied with it. It was a cheap opton
compared to the Dillons which, of course, are Cadillacs. Fortunately for me
I 'm just a Yugo shooter.
Chris Morton
#
#I got a RCBS Rock Chucker (RCBS is about a hour drive from my house
#which was the main reason I got it). For precision rifle reloading its
#absolutely perfect. I have a ridiculous amount of control on every
#single stage of the reloading process (assuming you've already done
#the case media separation and cleaning).
#
#I love my rock chucker for my 308 and 30-06 (I save a bit of money on
#bullets from hunting season as well... reloading 20 rounds for around
#8 bucks instead of the 25 they want at the local gun store).
#
#RCBS is as amazing of a company as Leupold is. Leupold completely
#rebuilt my scope after I accidentally messed it up at no cost... well
#RCBS replaced 3 parts I accidentally lost in a move between houses.
#When I asked what the bill would be on the replaced parts
#(manufacturing cost was probably around 20 dollars) the woman on the
#phone laughed and said "whats your address?"
#
#RCBS does make progressive presses which I would probably buy if I was
#going to be doing heavy reloading (like you will with a .45 or 9mm).
#Take a look at them because for the price, quality and customer
#service you cant beat them.
I've had a similar experience with a Rock Chucker setup. I don't reload for
hunting, but for 600 yard target shooting. I too exercise the maximum control,
trickling and weighing every charge. I've got the standard deviation in
velocity to show for it too, both in .308 and .30-06.
I've got a Dillon RL550B that I do all of my handgun ammunition on. Other than
plinking or 200 yard offhand ammunition, I would only load rifle ammunition on
my Rock Chucker.
--
Gun control, the theory that 110lb. women have the "right" to fistfight with
210lb. rapists.
Del
bullets) for $35 at a yard sale.
Had an old RCBS single press given too me.
You'd be surprised how much used stuff is out there if you look
around, or ask.
I did buy one of the Lee presses as well. If I'm in a loading mood, I
usually set up all three for a different stage, and
go to town. I'm a hunter, plinker, so I don't go through hundreds of
cartridges. So the single stages work fine for me.
I purposely choose "cross-over" powders, instead of just looking for
the hottest powder for each caliber I own.
(I have a friend that does that, and he keeps about 20 powders on
hand. Thats crazy to me, but Im a simple
hunter, and he likes to push every cartridge he owns to the max.)
I shoot lead bullets alot. Much cheaper than JHP's. For example, it
took me quite a few years to realize that my 44 magnum JHP's weren't
any more deadly than a lead flatpoint. The leads probably more
accurate too.
I also purposely shoot many cross over bullets. 44mag, special,
444marlin. 38,357. 300win,30-06, etc.
The dies are a set price for the most part, although I have bought
several used ones, and were given some that all work fine.
My tumbler was the biggest expense, at $50 off of Craigslist, but it's
a huge one, and can polish cement blocks probably.
I pick up shells at the local range, re-cycle my ones, and am given
quite a bit from friends. So I really havent been buying new brass.
All said and done, with 8 calibers, presses, powders, tumbler, brass,
bullets, books......Im probably in about
$200.
Del
wb
I use a Rock Chucker and the most time consuming part is the
weighing of powder.
You can do quite a volume if you use one of those digital scale /
powder dispenser combinations. Even weighing each charge manually for my
..45 Colts, I can load 50 - 100 rounds rather quickly, usually in the
time it takes to watch the average movie. A turret press makes things
real fast, but if you already have a press like the RCBS Rock Chucker, I
would add an automatic powder scale and dispense system. I used one of
these (I don't own one yet) and it enabled me to load three times as
fast. This type of a setup would allow you to load a lot in a reasonable
time without breaking the bank.
Die sets for the RCBS are around $25.0 - $30.00 and are all you need
to change calibers when reloading. I load .223, .260, .308, 30-40 Krag,
6.5x55, 6.5x50 Arisaka 8x57mm, 7.62x39mm, 7.62x54mm, and .45 Colt.
I have around $550.00 invested in everything. I figure the setup has
paid for it's self several times over.
chasw
few exceptions, I don't weigh each charge. Instead, I use the scale to
check the weight of a charge against the reading on the Uniflow micrometer
stem. Then I throw each charge directly from the measure into the cases in
a loading block. Especially with finer grained powders like RL-15 and
WW760, the variation from one charge to the next is typically within a tenth
of a grain or two. This seems to have little effect on accuracy and the
measure is so much faster than the scale, even a fully automated
dispenser/scale combo. There are some rather expensive powder measures for
shooters who want even higher levels of uniformity, see link below. - CW
http://www.harrellsprec.com/online_store.html
____________________________________________________
"wb" <archan...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ftve18$6ce$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
#
# I use a Rock Chucker and the most time consuming part is the
# weighing of powder.
# You can do quite a volume if you use one of those digital scale /
# powder dispenser combinations. Even weighing each charge manually for my
# ..45 Colts, I can load 50 - 100 rounds rather quickly, usually in the
# time it takes to watch the average movie.
snip
Calif Bill
of trap and still have a cardboard keg of powder that I have not used in at
least 15 years. Still good? Unique in the can shelf life?
Herb Leong
Calif Bill <bmcke...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
#Related question. How long is the shelf life of powder. Use to shoot a lot
#of trap and still have a cardboard keg of powder that I have not used in at
#least 15 years. Still good? Unique in the can shelf life?
Smell the powder. If it has a strong, foul, acidic smell, then don't use it.
The best way to get rid of deteriorated smokeless powder is to burn it, out
in the open, in small piles of 1 lb or less and one inch or less deep.
/herb
Al Patrick
# In article <fu33oa$hvo$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>,
# Calif Bill <bmcke...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
# #Related question. How long is the shelf life of powder. Use to shoot a lot
# #of trap and still have a cardboard keg of powder that I have not used in at
# #least 15 years. Still good? Unique in the can shelf life?
#
# Smell the powder. If it has a strong, foul, acidic smell, then don't use it.
# The best way to get rid of deteriorated smokeless powder is to burn it, out
# in the open, in small piles of 1 lb or less and one inch or less deep.
#
# /herb
Was just reading about this in the newly arrived Sierra 5th Ed. Rifle &
Handgun Reloading Data manual. Thanks, Widener's and Chris in
particular for the rapid responses to emails! :-)
p.111 - not quoted. Summarized.
Storage:
1) Cool dry place, shielded from direct sunlight & not subj. to extreme
temp. chg.
2) Limit vol. of stock & only buy what you can use in a reasonable
time. Rotate stock. Consult SAAMI & local fire ordinances if storing
large quantity.
3) Orig. containers.
4) NO SMOKING signs - strictly enforced.
Smokeless virtually indefinite shelf life under proper conditions.
Stale signs:
a) irritating acidic odor - not the ether odor.
b) reddish dust or "clumped" appearance
c) Oily or sticky
IF it appears to have deteriorated DESTROY AT ONCE.
***** BURN as mentioned above - with one addition - provide an ignition
train / trial so it can ignite with you at a SAFE DISTANCE! ;-)
------
I just got this manual today, along with Lee's Modern Reloading 2nd Ed,
and there is LOTS of info in both. Not just the data tables / formulas,
but practical advice / instruction for newbies!
As some mentioned in answer to some of my questions, getting a reloading
manual, or two, or three, is one of the very first things we - newbies -
should do.
I chose Sierra for: it's hard cover, loose leaf format. Very
attractive cover, sectional dividers with subject tabs, with the means
for inserting errata sheets, etc. if necessary.
Modern Reloading 2nd Ed. was part of the 40th Anniversary Pack whereby I
got a manual along with a "C" type press for one price. Also, as
anticipated, it uses Lee equipment for its illustrations. Since I
expect to start with Lee this can be a help. This is not to put down
any of the other manuals which also give great general coverage of the
subject. It's just a newbie simplification, sometimes a necessity. ;-)
Lyman's 48th should be on the way in a few weeks, assuming Cabela's gets
their shipment about the 28th as expected. This was chosen for
additional cross referencing and because so many recommended it.
I'll hush! :-) I had planned to post the "update" on the arrival of
Widener's package today, but just decided to cast it all into (what
should have been) a simple addition to the above very good reply. Some
of us don't know when to shut up! :-(
Offbreed
# Smell the powder. If it has a strong, foul, acidic smell, then don't use it.
# The best way to get rid of deteriorated smokeless powder is to burn it, out
# in the open, in small piles of 1 lb or less and one inch or less deep.
Spreading it on the lawn is pretty good, from what I've heard. It breaks
down into a nitrogen rich fertilizer.
Calif Bill
> ...
I have a sierra manual, but did not RTFM it before posing the question.
Years ago, I bought a Mec 600 setup and there was a lot of unlabled power in
it. The burning was extreme. Did not leave enough of a powder trail and
singed the eyebrows. :>)
Pea Shooter
Lighting up Rover would be amusing, especially if it wasn't Rover's lawn.
"Calif Bill" <bmcke...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:fu8s13$opv$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
#
# And if perchance a spark happened when a dog was defecating on the law,
# that
# would be really good.
Richard Cranium
bursting into flames?
On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 11:07:59 +0000 (UTC), Offbreed
<offbre...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> ...
petey
# Can't you picture a dog running across the lawn . . . and suddenly
# bursting into flames?
No big deal if Michael Vick and a convenient swimming pool happen to be in
the area. ;-)