Turkish Mauser Action
Bob Jones
most 98 mauser barrels. There seems to be so many Turkish Mauser out there
that maybe I could build a custom rifle out of this type of rifle? Is there
anyone out there that has made a sporter out of a Turkish mauser? If yes,
what types of barrels can be purchased and what type of stocks to use?
--
Bob Jones
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You can learn about rec.guns at http://doubletap.cs.umd.edu/rec.guns
Clark Magnuson
outside, like an 1898, and have small threaded barels, like a Swede.
The book to I like best on sporterizing Mausers is by R.A. Walsh:
"Mauser M98 & M96 How to Build Your Favorite Custom Rifle"
Wherein he acknowledges that barrels are sold for the 98 and 96 with
only the .250 Savage, 6.5mm, 7x57, and 35 Remington going to the small
threaded small ring 96. He then goes on to say that despite this
timidity of barrel suppliers, the the 96 is OK with 25-06 up to 61,000
psi. The fact that Turks are large ring with small threads, lumps it in
with the 96's for pre threaded barrel availability.
Buy Walsh's book at Brownell's Stock No. 968-565-120
http://www.brownells.com/Index.html
If you buy on line, you should try to qualify for wholesale prices. I
told the
Brownell's website that I am 'The Clark Magnuson College of
Gunsmithing". This
makes the book cost $22 and not $32.50. If you call Brownell's on the
phone, the
girls will suggest you get wholesale, the computer is not as price
friendly.
We did the bolt bending. Our bent bolts do not
interfere with heat treatment on the bolt, and are very strong. However,
it
looks rough when first completed, and must be finished with a die
grinder or
Dremel tool. We made a heat sink with buttressing threads for the bolt
and put
heat paste on the bolt. One guy heats it with the torch, while the other
guy
hits it with the sledge hammer.
R.A.Walsh in the book "Mauser M98 & M96 How to Build Your Favorite
Custom Rifle" says that one should only convert Mausers with mismatched
serial numbers. The rest should be kept for collecting.
He also recommends installing a Timney Trigger with adjustable "pull,
travel, and creep". He recommends 2.5 pounds or less for target and
varmit rifles, 4 pounds for hunting, and 6 to 8 pounds for dangerous
game.
Triggers are on available at Midway.
Brownell's has Timney Triggers:
http://www.brownells.com/Product/index.asp
MAUSER 98,HUSQVARNA, BRNO, YUGOSLAV, H&R 300, COMMERCIAL MAUSERS
883-100-298
M98-FN-SP Sportsman Trigger
$43.60
$29.07
883-200-298
M98-FN-F Featherweight Trigger w/o Safety
$65.25
$43.50
883-500-298
M98-FN-FD Featherweight Deluxe Trigger
$79.65
$53.10
I have not bought an after market trigger yet, but rather deferred the
problem to the Fred Flintstone school of home gunsmithing :
I did a trigger job on a re barreled and scoped 98 Mauser this weekend:
1) an hour to reshape the part of the trigger that cams off the receiver
to make the trigger single stage instead of 2 stage [easier to pull now
~ 2.5 pounds]
2) an hour make a horse shoe shaped spacer to sit between the sear and
the receiver to reduce the hold off. [creep]
3) an hour to cut a nail to sit inside the trigger spring to reduce the
over travel.
4) 10 minutes to find a small spring to sit between the trigger and
receiver to pull the trigger back so it will not be floppy with so
little take up.
I took it to the range and got a .700" 3 shot group. [That is VERY good,
for me]
To disassemble, put the action in an action wrench and the barrel in a
barrel vice. Turn counter clockwise.
Both tools are available for about ~$40 each, more at Brownell's. [Some
of us make our own]
http://www.midwayusa.com/
At $18 delivered, this is my favorite Mauser Scope Mount, it is steel
and one
piece:
http://www.midwayusa.com/online/prodsearch.exe/BuildLink?SaleItemID=149266
These guys can fit with no grinding on the charging hump [except the
1903 Turk].
I recommend the Wheeler scope mount fixture [unless you have a milling
machine
to locate the holes] $47
I think that for 6-48 taps, Midway is a good place to buy. $15
For that really hard Swedish steel the tap magic cutting oil helps.
http://www.midwayusa.com/online/prodsearch.exe/CategoryPage?PromotionID=0&CategoryID=8831&CurrentCategoryID=649+***+666+***
For $20 the two piece steel and $4 for the two piece aluminum are my
second
favorite:
http://www.brownells.com/
I buy the 6-48 screws at Brownell's too.
I bought Walsh's book on sporterizing Mausers at Brownell's.
The Kuhnhausen book on Mausers sucks.
Blair Emory
normal 98 Mauser, but have the small thread, i.e., a small ring Mauser
thread, like the 96s etc. used. Thus you have to order a small ring barrel
to convert it. I have built several custom rifles on these actions. They
were and to an extent, still are, a steal. I still have several of the
rifles/actions waiting for time to complete.
Cheers
Blair
TPau40X
Mausers. Contact Dave at 330-868-6867.
Rob
small ring and german 98 types are large ring
"That's all we can expect from a man, this side of the grave: his good
is - knowing he is bad."
Robert Browning
Rob
plan to build a custom lght weight rifle on a small ring turk ) though
not as many as for large ring guns.
midwayusa.com has good refrences and sells books and tool for building
custom mausers.
"That's all we can expect from a man, this side of the grave: his good
is - knowing he is bad."
Robert Browning
P. Roza
"Bob Jones" <bjo...@starrecruiting.com> wrote in message
news:9dtt01$bqs$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
# I was told that the Turkish Mauser has a beefed up receiver and will not
fit
# most 98 mauser barrels. There seems to be so many Turkish Mauser out
there
# that maybe I could build a custom rifle out of this type of rifle? Is
there
# anyone out there that has made a sporter out of a Turkish mauser? If yes,
# what types of barrels can be purchased and what type of stocks to use?
#
# --
# Bob Jones
There is more than one type of Turk Mauser. Some will accept the standard
barrel, as they have the standard large ring thread, while others will not.
I am not sure how to tell the difference between them. Perhaps someone will
expand on this. I do know that the Yugo made K-98s were made with excellent
actions and bent bolts but poor barrels. I bought one for $59 and
rebarreled it in .243. I saved the original laminate stock, but recontoured
and free floated it, added a weaver rail and scope. It now shoots 1/4" to
3/8" at 100 yds. Why not just buy the Yugo for $20 more? The money you
save by getting a bent bolt is worth it.
JOHN GARAND
WROTE:
#I was told that the Turkish Mauser has a beefed up receiver and will not fit
#most 98 mauser barrels. There seems to be so many Turkish Mauser out there
#that maybe I could build a custom rifle out of this type of rifle? Is there
#anyone out there that has made a sporter out of a Turkish mauser? If yes,
#what types of barrels can be purchased and what type of stocks to use?
Within the past year there have been multiple types of "Turkish
Mausers" on the market. They have included Models 1893, 1903, and
1938. All have been in 8x57mm, so the earlier 7.65x53mm models have
been rebarrelled. The Model 1938s are the most common on the market
now. Some have reported they found their 1938(s) to be an 1898 action
with a thicker ring to use "small ring" barrels, while others report
their Model 1938(s) to be a standard "large ring" 1898 Mauser action.
For the Model 1938s, any standard stock for an 1898 Mauser will work
(with barrel channel cut for the barrel you use). Assuming the
reports are correct regarding two different types of 98 actions with
regard to the barrel shank diameter, you won't know what barrel you
need until you have the rifle in hand.
Ken Marsh
Clark Magnuson <cmag...@home.com> wrote:
#...He then goes on to say that despite this
#timidity of barrel suppliers, the the 96 is OK with 25-06 up to 61,000
#psi. The fact that Turks are large ring with small threads, lumps it in
#with the 96's for pre threaded barrel availability.
#Buy Walsh's book at Brownell's Stock No. 968-565-120
As for burst strength, the receiver ring is probably just fine with the
radial stress of firing cartridges like the .25-06. As long as
everything goes OK and the case retains its integrity, that is. However
'96 steel, while strong, is very often soft, and the receiver locking
lugs will set back while the barrel will settle forward in the threads.
Then the excessive headspace will allow a cartridge head to seperate,
venting high pressure gas into the action. Then things are not going OK
and you'll have a true test of receiver strength (and extractor,
magazine floor plate, top of receiver ring, etc.)
The act of firing a few proof cartridges, and not having the gun burst,
is not a complete test of safety of a rebarreled rifle. I don't consider
a headspace growth of .020" in 100 shots to be acceptable, nor the
consequent case head seperations and the destruction of the rifle. Just
firing a few shots and not having it blow up doesn't mean anything.
Ken.
--
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mail: kmarsh at charm dot net | Using a computer should not
WWW: http://www.charm.net/~kmarsh | be a test of manual dexterity.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Clark Magnuson
in a Swede's maximum pressure. [Use THAT formula on CZ52 barrels.]
I agree that the loss of headspace from the denting of the bolt lugs to
receiver interface is the likely first manifestation of over pressure.
The only Mauser failure that I have heard a first hand account of was a
Spanish .308 conversion with this failure.
The Swede is of the same design and I was talking about higher
pressures than a .308, so the danger is there.
Part of the problem is that P.O. Ackley did not test the 96 Swede to
failure. This leaves generations of gun culture to wander aimlessly in
the wilderness of speculation and urban legend. "P.O. Ackley part 3" is
a virtual text that is currently known as "My trigger string notebook" A
quick scanning reveals, " The Swede '96 was the hardest receiver I ever
drilled and tapped. Much too nice a gun to blow up..." There you have
it. The record is still incomplete. The man with the responsibility is
too cheap to blow up his Swedes.
I have another problem with the 100 shots concept. I prefer blow a gun
up in a .1 gr increment load work up. Then I take a fresh identical gun
[the same one repaired preferably] and get right below the failure point
a shoot lots of ammo. Never have I got any failure data from this. I
have never got any tiny plastic deformation per shot. This brings me to
stare at the stress strain curve of steel. The squareness of the curve
convinces me that it is unlikely I will ever happen on a load that takes
it's toll in 100 rounds.
Still, the story that came with the Spanish Mauser conversion was that
it went many rounds, the cognitive dissonance this gives me is still not
enough to blow up a Swede for the datum. They are just too nice:)
Meanwhile, back on the Turkish Mauser: I only load them till the bolt
is so sticky that I have to pound it open and the primer falls out,
100s of times [when there is no range master to see me kick starting my
Mauser]. And still no change in headspace. I know someone who
accidentally put in a double charge of 4759 in a 30-06 '98. He managed
to weld the brass to the bolt.
Clark
Ken Marsh wrote:
# As for burst strength, the receiver ring is probably just fine with the
# radial stress of firing cartridges like the .25-06.
However
# '96 steel, while strong, is very often soft, and the receiver locking
# lugs will set back while the barrel will settle forward in the threads.
#
# The act of firing a few proof cartridges, and not having the gun burst,
# is not a complete test of safety of a rebarreled rifle. I don't consider
# a headspace growth of .020" in 100 shots to be acceptable, nor the
# consequent case head seperations and the destruction of the rifle. Just
# firing a few shots and not having it blow up doesn't mean anything.
#