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Also I have told that I could do the following:
"you can put a slanted spacer in ala Ruger did for the Swift."
Oh well if any one has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.
Chris
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Please find out about rec.guns at http://doubletap.cs.umd.edu/rec.guns
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Also I have told that I could do the following:
"you can put a slanted spacer in ala Ruger did for the Swift." >>
Well, the 'stacked' loading approach is what you need if the magazine is going
to work. Even if you take a magazine intended for the purpose, like the
Lee-Enfield, if you get an upper rim caught behind a lower rim in loading,
you've got a jam. The slanted spacer suggestion for a double-stack Mauser-type
action has been used _many_ times in military guns for rimmed cartridges. What
you need is an insert at the front and rear of the magazine well to force each
round rearward as the next round is loaded.
Two actions that come to mind are the Pattern 14 Enfield (I've seen ads for
these cheap in Shotgun News and Gun List), or a 'Siamese' Mauser, which was
very cheap when imported years ago but now seems to be fetching vastly inflated
prices. Both are strong bolt actions suitable for scope mounting (the P-14
especially), and would make good starting point for a fine target gun for your
favorite cartridge.
IMHO
Ed Arnold
duck_...@iname.com wrote:
#
# I was wondering if anyone out there knows of a way to get a rimmed case
# to feed properly in a bolt action rifle. I want to build a rifle
# chambered in .30/40 Krag(Nostalgic reasons).
#
Sure, start with an action that has it sorted out. The 'real' Krag will
do it, as will our Springfield copy (already shoots that round).
Likewise various SMLEs come to mind, although hardly pretty. I'd opt
for 'the other Enfield', the P14 (or was it the P17?). Those actions
are a bit brutish, but make nice custom guns. The A Square rifles are
built on them. The .303 Brit chambering makes the conversion simple,
one would think.
Doug Owen
# I was wondering if anyone out there knows of a way to get a rimmed case
#to feed properly in a bolt action rifle. I want to build a rifle
#chambered in .30/40 Krag
#(Nostalgic reasons). I have talked with a couple of gunsmiths and they
#say that it is just too much work to get it to properly. I have also
#talked with one retired gunsmith and he has Krag rifle built on a M95
#Chilean mauser and just stacks his ammo when he loads it, like the
#illustration below.
#
Pure conjecture here, but I would think any competant smith with a
lathe should be able to open up the bolt face to accept a rimmed
cartridge. I'm thinking in terms of a Rem 700 action, where, the case
head is totally surrounded by the bolt.
The Mauser might be tougher to convert, because of that funky
"controlled feed" extractor mechanism.
And of course, magazine feeding those rimmed jobbers can create a
problem UNLESS you stack 'em properly.
Have you considered a falling block (Ruger #1) action? Just find one
in .30/06 and have it re-chambered.
Both of these rifles were designed to shoot the rimmed 303 Brit. which
has the same headsize as the 30Gvt.
My personal favorite is the P-14, and I have converted a number of
them to various rimmed cartridges, such as 40-64 and 45-70, 3040 etc
I prefer them for their action stiffness, double locking lugs, and the
one piece stock and ease of finding scope mounts after the reciever
has been ground.
Check gun shows for "parade" or drill rifles. These will generaly have
either a plugged bore, or a hole drilled though the BARREL, not the
reciever. Your going to rebarrel anyways, so barrel condition is
completly unimportant. Be sure to check the action/reciever for
cracks, and missing parts, but Ive built a number of fine guns using
these actions, with the basic purchase price around $45.00
Gunner
duck_...@iname.com wrote:
> ...
http://userzweb.lightspeed.net/gunner
# I was wondering if anyone out there knows of a way to get a rimmed case
# to feed properly in a bolt action rifle. I want to build a rifle
# chambered in .30/40 Krag
# (Nostalgic reasons). I have talked with a couple of gunsmiths and they
# say that it is just too much work to get it to properly. I have also
# talked with one retired gunsmith and he has Krag rifle built on a M95
# Chilean mauser and just stacks his ammo when he loads it, like the
# illustration below.
#
# [--- Is bullet,
#
# [---
# [---
# [---
#
#
# Also I have told that I could do the following:
#
# "you can put a slanted spacer in ala Ruger did for the Swift."
#
# Oh well if any one has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.
#
# Chris
#
The .303 Enfields used a rimmed case VERY similiar to a 30/40 so if you
rebarreled an SMLE it should work well with no other modifiations
--
Committees of Correspondence Web page:
http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/
- free men own guns, slaves don't
I'd hire a better gunsmith, unless you're trying to get him to do it REALLY
cheap, in which case you're the problem. I've never heard my 'smith tell myself
or ANYONE else that something possible was too much work-possibly too much
expense for the worth of the end result, but never too much work.
I'd try someone else.
# I was wondering if anyone out there knows of a way to get a rimmed case
#to feed properly in a bolt action rifle. I want to build a rifle
#chambered in .30/40 Krag
#(Nostalgic reasons).
Good luck on your project.
Frank Longtine
The Second Amendment protects your liberties,
not your hunting
rights.
#Have you considered a falling block (Ruger #1) action? Just find one
#in .30/06 and have it re-chambered.
I'm sure the poster actually knew this, but the .30-06 chamber is
already wider and longer than the .30-40 case, so cannot be
rechambered without setting the barrel back a considerable amount.
This would eliminate the needed barrel contour for the Ruger scope
base/barrel rib. A new barrel would be the only practical way to go
unless iron sights are the desired option.
Jay T
## I have also talked with one retired gunsmith and he has Krag rifle
## built on a M95 Chilean mauser and just stacks his ammo when he
## loads it, like the illustration below.
##
## [--- Is bullet,
##
## [---
## [---
## [---
If the vertical bar is supposed to be the rim, then the illustration
above is backwards. On my Siamese M98, my M1895, and an old M98 .219
Zipper, I had to place each round with the rim IN FRONT of the lower
one to keep from jamming. Loading as shown in the illustration above
would surely jam some rifles.