Excessive humidity is of course an issue but the real recipe for undesired =
corrosion is guns cooler than the air, leading to condensate, especially wh=
en it might run and "puddle" in stagnant air and dry slowly where it can ca=
use pitting. This risk is biggest in locations where temperature and/or hu=
midity change quickly. Think dew on your car early in the morning.
This risk is minimized inside the safe if the safe internals are kept just =
a little warmer than ambient in the room housing the safe. Moisture from w=
arm air will not condense on a [slightly] warmer gun when the safe door is =
opened. It does not take much of a heat source to do this. Hence effective=
ness of the Goldenrod heater. =20
It is important to be sure guns are WARM and DRY before storage. An icy gu=
n brought in from a hunt and tucked away in a closet (especially one on an=
exterior wall which may be damp already because of condensation on the col=
d wall) (or worse, a gun case which prevents airflow) or even a gun safe is=
a rust magnet. In late fall/winter, I dry and warm guns with an old hair =
dryer, open the action, and then blow hot air down the barrel (to evaporate=
any condensed interior moisture) before putting them away in the safe. Obv=
iously, this is a good thing to do if it is raining. Not so obviously, it =
is a good thing to do when it is just cold. Of course, a little light oil =
does not hurt either. =20
In terms of humidity control, I think it is a mistake to strive for low hum=
idity (<30%) or abnormal warmth inside a safe, except as it might occur by =
virtue of where you are. The reason is shrinkage/expansion of stock wood a=
nd attendant stock warping that, among other things, can cause a wandering =
zero. =20