Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. Oh, and BTW, this is a
chicom (gawd I feel the heat already).
--Jay
# Is there a secret as to how to strip a SKS bolt? I've tried to tap out
# the extractor retainer pin, but it won't move. Does the firing pin or the
# extractor lock this in some way, or do I need to get a bigger hammer!
This is one of the places where graduates of the Bigger Hammer
School of Technology are well-served. No, you don't need a 10-lb
sledge hammer, but the extractor retainer frequently needs some pretty
good hammering. The good news is that it gets easier after stripping
and reassembling a few times.
--
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, da...@a.crl.com
Don't tread on me.
E-Mail published at my discretion.
# Is there a secret as to how to strip a SKS bolt? I've tried to tap out
# the extractor retainer pin, but it won't move. Does the firing pin or the
# extractor lock this in some way, or do I need to get a bigger hammer!
#
# Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. Oh, and BTW, this is a
# chicom (gawd I feel the heat already).
#
# --Jay
#
#
No, theres no secret to it. You will need a drift punch and a *solid* flat
surface to lay the bolt on, with space below for the pin to move as you drive
it out. I use my vice with the jaws open slightly. It may take several solid
raps to drive the pin out, but it *will* come out.
sgt
No. It is one of those things that only a bigger hammer will solve. In
general, there is not a lot if irrevokable damage you can do to a SKS
with a hammer unless you really wanted to.
Hi Jay,
First off, don't feel to bad about having a Chicom, we all make mistakes.
Mine was actually pretty good, but I sold it for a Russian.
Anyhow, I think the bigger hammer procedure will work best.
Find a good hard surface such as over a pin sized gap in the jaws of a
vise, get a good punch, and use a 3# or larger hammer if the
standard one doesn't budge it.
When you re-assemble, make sure the flat on the pin matches with the
retaining pin. Also see that the pin fits as tightly as possible. A
loose one could cause some grief.
Good luck...Ray
Sorry Jay, I forgot to finish my post - after removing the firing pin,
you can then remove the extractor by pushing it back towards the
rear of the bolt, then carefully (watch you don't lose the spring) pry
it out of the bolt channel. It's easy once you do it.
As usual, re-assemble in reverse order...
Again, good luck.....Ray
Keep tapping with the same size hammer. A 1/8" punch is about right.
I used a shim of wood and a hole in the workbench to relieve the stress
in the obvious places so I could hit it without fear. It'll come; be
patient. Take a good look at everything before disassembly, too --
in particular, look for witness marks that tell you which side of the
firing pin goes up (functional check afterwards should also reveal any
botchments; the pin should shake back and forth freely).
For those who tuned in late: this is well worth doing to any SKS that
is new to you, and as an annual ritual at the start of overripe-melon
hunting season. A firing pin lodged in the aroused position by dirt
or hidden corrosion can give you a bad case of the ohmigods when you
chamber that first round...
Have fun and shoot safely,
--Joe
#Is there a secret as to how to strip a SKS bolt? I've tried to tap out
#the extractor retainer pin, but it won't move. Does the firing pin or the
#extractor lock this in some way, or do I need to get a bigger hammer!
#Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. Oh, and BTW, this is a
#chicom (gawd I feel the heat already).
#--Jay
Well, it looks like everyone covered the firing pin question.
As for the Chicom. I own several Russian and Chinese SKS's and I
certainly won't appoligize for my Chinese guns. Why should I, my
Russian SKS's won't punch out 1 MOA, but several of my Chinese ones
will (w/plain 'ol Norinco ammo).
Bill Gates should be the "Have an abortion" poster boy.
His mother should have!
Sincerly,
Don Merritt