30-06 cases
Kaboom
the base of the case. The odd thing was that the case wasn't bulged all the way
around, only on one side.
I ran the cases into the chamber and they fit with any friction. From what I
can see, the bulge was from the side of the case that dosn't touch the
extractor.
Is this normal and are the cases safe to use?
My Lee dies couldn't take the bulge out, the case hadn't bulged out enough to
form a tight fit.
thanks.
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Lungshot1
#around
#the base of the case.
A bulge close to the base can be a sign of a head separation. Cases that have
been fired many times with hot loads and have been trimmed may have developed a
thin area above the solid portion of the base. This is a result of brass that
has flowed forward lengthening the case and leaving a thin area just above the
head.
Are you working with range pick up brass or are you dealing with brass that you
have direct knowledge about how many times they have been fired and trimmed?
Don't reload the shell in question. Watch any of your shells for similar
conditions. Keep records on how many times a shell has been reloaded and
trimmed.
I don't fire hot loads in my 30-06 frequently so I rarely have to trim the
brass and it lasts a long time.
Ed
Mark Gibson
#I was resizing my 30-06 cases that I fired last week and noticed a bulge around
#the base of the case. The odd thing was that the case wasn't bulged all the way
#around, only on one side.
#I ran the cases into the chamber and they fit with any friction. From what I
#can see, the bulge was from the side of the case that dosn't touch the
#extractor.
#Is this normal and are the cases safe to use?
#My Lee dies couldn't take the bulge out, the case hadn't bulged out enough to
#form a tight fit.
In many guns, the case will bulge where it is above the feed ramp, where it
doesn't have and steel around it to make it keep its shape. Several of
my guns will cause bulges on one side of the back of the brass when fired
using warm loads. I speak from experience when I say to be careful about
reloading cases that have any significant deformities. Where that bulge is,
the brass is a lot weaker, even after you resize it into shape. It's like
bending a stiff wire back and forth a few times -- it will break easily.
One of the old, ongoing discussions on Glock-L has been the fact that the
chambers in some calibers are not strongly supported, so they allow the
brass to bulge over the feed ramp. Dean Speir is the guy who has had the
strongest arguments to show that this is a real problem for handloaders, IMHO.
You should have seen the way the two "Kabooms" I've experienced trashed
the brass. I was very glad to be wearing big strong glasses to protect
my eyes. That was back when I was fairly new to shooting and handloading.
I'm much more cautious now, yet can make rounds that are actually more
effective than the ones I used to assemble.
Best regards,
Mark "be safe!" Gibson
--
Do not meddle in the affairs of wizards, for they are subtle and quick to
anger. -- J.R.R Tolkein
You have this inversion where the limitations on advances will not be
the speed of the Internet but rather the speed of your computer.
-- Harvey Newman, California Institute of Technology
Rick Courtright
# Is this normal and are the cases safe to use?
Hi,
Factory ammo, or reloads? If reloads, light or heavy? How's the
headspace on the rifle? My '06 is very tight, and I find no such bulge.
My .303 Enfield was quite loose and did that same thing, even with light
loads. Tightened it up, problem gone. Just something to check.
As for case safety, you need to check to see if head separations are
happening. You can make a simple tool with a piece of heavy wire (I use
an old bicycle spoke.) Bend the end at 90 deg, sharpen it a little with
a file (flat, like the blade of a hoe), and you run it up and down the
inside walls of the case. If it catches, that's a crack and the case is
history.
Rick
Ken Marsh
It would help to tell us what sort of rifle you are working with....
Kaboom <s36...@student.uq.edu.au> wrote:
#I ran the cases into the chamber and they fit with any friction.
I'm sorry, but what does this sentence mean? How much friction is "any
friction?"
Do you have a Winchester 88 or 100? These have been known to have their
chambers get out of round over time.
Did you have any trouble extracting these cases? What handload are you
working with, mild or wild?
Ken.
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Jim Gaynor
commercial, military or previously reloaded. Is the gun a recent aquistion
or have you been shooting it for a while? Is it a new batch of ammo/cases?
If you had reloaded the cases before how close are you to maximums for your
powder choice and bullet weight. If you were shooting reloads and you have
any unfired rounds from that batch left you might want to pull a bullet and
double check the charge weight.
It sounds like you may have a headspace or chamber problem. I would not
shoot it again until you have had it inspected by a qualified gunsmith (take
the fired caes with you too).
"Kaboom" <s36...@student.uq.edu.au> wrote in message
news:b5r5m5$400$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
around
> ...
the way
> ...
what I
> ...
to
> ...
Ralph Mowery
# In many guns, the case will bulge where it is above the feed ramp, where
it
# doesn't have and steel around it to make it keep its shape. Several of
# my guns will cause bulges on one side of the back of the brass when fired
# using warm loads. I speak from experience when I say to be careful about
# reloading cases that have any significant deformities. Where that bulge
is,
# the brass is a lot weaker, even after you resize it into shape. It's like
# bending a stiff wire back and forth a few times -- it will break easily.
#
While you are correct in what you are saying , the rifles should not have a
feed ramp in a place where it could buldge. I would look for other causes.
I have a Glock and do know what you are saying.
Bart B.
a bulge on one side after firing. This bulge is typically about
1/16th of an inch in front of the extractor groove. It's proper name
is "pressure ring." The case is typically straight from this pressure
ring bulge all the way to the shoulder as that's where the case wall
pressed against the chamber at peak pressure and it doesn't spring
back all the way.
You didn't say exactly where the bulge in your cases is and that would
be helpful. If this pressure ring is what you mean, please let us
know. If it's something else, then we'd like to know that, too.
This bulge on one side happens because the case body wall thickness
isn't the same all the way around. The thinner side bulges more than
the thicker side. It doesn't matter where the thin side is in the
chamber when it's fired; that side bulges the most. This happens even
though the extractor pushes the case body against the chamber wall.
Full-length resizing typically doesn't get rid of this bulge. It just
makes the case diameter smaller than its fired dimension at this
point.
Kaboom
straight from the "pressure ring" to the shoulder.
Are these cases safe to re-use or am I best to just discard them? (They've only
been loaded 3 times from new. The bulge wasn't apparent until after firing the
third time reloaded batch.)
> ...
Bart B.
correctly in the press, you might get fifty or more reloads per case.
Without actually seeing the case myself, you might consider taking
them to a competant gun shop and ask their opinion on them.
Mark Gibson
#I'd guess they are safe to reload. If you set the sizing die
#correctly in the press, you might get fifty or more reloads per case.
No way!!!! Unless they are very wimpy loads.
You can't resize/reshape a brass cartridge safely after using it with
full-power loads more than a dozen times or so. That's twice as many
times as I will reuse cases in the warmer loads I make. Every time
the brass is flexed, it weakens. Ask a metallurgist if you don't
agree.
Best regards,
Mark
--
Do not meddle in the affairs of wizards, for they are subtle and quick to
anger. -- J.R.R Tolkein
You have this inversion where the limitations on advances will not be
the speed of the Internet but rather the speed of your computer.
-- Harvey Newman, California Institute of Technology
Bart B.
# If you set the sizing die
# #correctly in the press, you might get fifty or more reloads per case.
and this response:
# No way!!!! Unless they are very wimpy loads.
#
# You can't resize/reshape a brass cartridge safely after using it with
# full-power loads more than a dozen times or so. That's twice as many
# times as I will reuse cases in the warmer loads I make. Every time
# the brass is flexed, it weakens. Ask a metallurgist if you don't
# agree.
Then I must have been dreaming when I took a new Winchester .308 Win.
case and a partially full can of IMR4064 along with a box of Federal
210M primers and another box of Sierra 168-gr. match bullets, then
started loading and firing the same case over and over again. Using
44 grains of powder for each shot, I finally stopped after 57 reloads;
I ran out of powder.
I was full-length sizing the case each time such that the body
diameter was reduced about three thousandths of an inch, the neck was
sized such that the mouth diameter was about .307-in. without an
expander ball and the shoulder was set back only about two thousandths
from its fired position. I've always got better accuracy this way
compared to neck-only sizing. Even new cases have given me better
accuracy than neck-sizing a fired one; especially belted magnum ones.
I and some other folks have gotten 90 or more loads per case with
maximum loads just like this one. Mine were with standard SAAMI
chamber dimensions and off the shelf RCBS dies I bought at gunshops.
The key is not to flex the brass too much. If the full-length sizing
die reduces the case diameters and sets the shoulder back too far,
then case life will be much shorter. To get this many loads per case,
you can't move the brass very much. It helps if you find a
full-length sizing die that doesn't reduce body diameters more than
three to four thousandths of an inch from fired case diameters.
Clark Magnuson
# Then I must have been dreaming when I took a new Winchester .308 Win.
# case and a partially full can of IMR4064 along with a box of Federal
# 210M primers and another box of Sierra 168-gr. match bullets, then
# started loading and firing the same case over and over again. Using
# 44 grains of powder for each shot, I finally stopped after 57 reloads;
# I ran out of powder.
#
# I was full-length sizing the case each time such that the body
# diameter was reduced about three thousandths of an inch, the neck was
# sized such that the mouth diameter was about .307-in. without an
# expander ball and the shoulder was set back only about two thousandths
# from its fired position. I've always got better accuracy this way
# compared to neck-only sizing. Even new cases have given me better
# accuracy than neck-sizing a fired one; especially belted magnum ones.
#
Why do you think your full re sized handloads more accurate than neck sized?
What is the mechanism?
Clark
Bart B.
# Why do you think your full re sized handloads more accurate than neck sized?
They shoot smaller groups.
I've tried every neck-only sizing technique around; none shoot as
accurate as full-length sizing properly done. And I've typically got
better accuracy from new cases over neck-only sized fired ones.
# What is the mechanism?
I don't know why. Except that the shoulder on a rimless bottleneck
case must not be set back more than two-thousandths of an inch. Case
body diameters must not be sized below fired diameters more than about
two or three thousandths. I don't use expander balls; the die's neck
is lapped out so they aren't needed. Bolt face must be perpendicular
with chamber axis, not the bolt axis, so case heads stay square.
Martin J. Hull, Sierra Bullet's longtime ballistic man (retired in the
late '80s) who did virtually all their load development for all their
bullets in all kinds of rifles (plus one of the best highpower rifle
competitors on this planet) has this to say. In all the thousands of
rounds in all calibers he fired testing loads for accuracy, the best
results occurred when the case fit the chamber like a "turd in a punch
bowl." That means full-length sizing so the case has a bit of room
around it. He never got neck-only sizing to shoot as well as
full-length. But full-length sizing has to be done right and most
folks don't do it right, so they get better results by neck-only
sizing.
But if anybody gets better results by neck-only sizing than they do
with full-length sizing, that's fine by me.
Ken Marsh
OK, I better understand your advocacy of full length sizing now. Your
receivers or bolts are modified to hold the bolt face square, you
partial full-length size (as I call it) your cases only a few
thousandths (probably to all-matching headspace), and you don't use
expander balls. I think all three of these points is more important than
just saying that FL sizing is superior to neck sizing.
I think a newbie trying to take your advice but Full Length sizing to
the max and dragging cases over a dry expander ball, is going do be
disappointed.
I have neck-sized cases (no expander ball) and then culled the ones with
headspace approaching (or surpassing) chamber size, leaving less than a
+/- .001" spread in headspace in the for-record batch. The culls
sometimes get annealed but definitely get full-length sized and used as
sighters. Often they can return to the batch after that firing and
resizing. I think the end result of this process is the same- a batch of
cases not warped by an expander ball, all of matching headspace just
under chamber size.
I think the key point is not just "FL versus Neck", but controlling all
aspects of resizing, knowing chamber headspace, controlling case
headspace, not pulling necks out of square with expander balls. A newbie
trying to compare FL to Neck without a cartridge headspace comparator of
some kind is flying blind, and unlikely to see better results in
following the advice of either camp.
Ken.
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Mark Gibson
User-Agent: tin/1.4.4-20000803 ("Vet for the Insane") (UNIX) (SunOS/5.8 (sun4u))
# If you set the sizing die
# #correctly in the press, you might get fifty or more reloads per case.
and this response:
# No way!!!! Unless they are very wimpy loads.
#
# You can't resize/reshape a brass cartridge safely after using it with
# full-power loads more than a dozen times or so. That's twice as many
# times as I will reuse cases in the warmer loads I make. Every time
# the brass is flexed, it weakens. Ask a metallurgist if you don't
# agree.
Then I must have been dreaming when I took a new Winchester .308 Win.
case and a partially full can of IMR4064 along with a box of Federal
210M primers and another box of Sierra 168-gr. match bullets, then
started loading and firing the same case over and over again. Using
44 grains of powder for each shot, I finally stopped after 57 reloads;
I ran out of powder.
I was full-length sizing the case each time such that the body
diameter was reduced about three thousandths of an inch, the neck was
sized such that the mouth diameter was about .307-in. without an
expander ball and the shoulder was set back only about two thousandths
from its fired position. I've always got better accuracy this way
compared to neck-only sizing. Even new cases have given me better
accuracy than neck-sizing a fired one; especially belted magnum ones.
I and some other folks have gotten 90 or more loads per case with
[snip]
Bart B. <bar...@aol.com> wrote:
#Regarding my statement:
## If you set the sizing die
## #correctly in the press, you might get fifty or more reloads per case.
#and this response:
## No way!!!! Unless they are very wimpy loads.
##
## You can't resize/reshape a brass cartridge safely after using it with
## full-power loads more than a dozen times or so. That's twice as many
## times as I will reuse cases in the warmer loads I make. Every time
## the brass is flexed, it weakens. Ask a metallurgist if you don't
## agree.
#Then I must have been dreaming when I took a new Winchester .308 Win.
#case and a partially full can of IMR4064 along with a box of Federal
#210M primers and another box of Sierra 168-gr. match bullets, then
#started loading and firing the same case over and over again. Using
#44 grains of powder for each shot, I finally stopped after 57 reloads;
#I ran out of powder.
Were any of the rounds you fired pushing book max limits in one or more
ways? I load my 10mm GLock ammo "borderline hot" and used to load the
ammo I made for the Desert Eage I had with about 3gr more AA#9 than *any*
reloading manual recommended, because it wouldn't cycle reliably otherwise.
Point being, if you just stick a primer in a case, you can probably reuse the
case for the rest of your life, but if you load it to the max (or more) you
better be careful about metal (brass) fatigue.
#I was full-length sizing the case each time such that the body
#diameter was reduced about three thousandths of an inch, the neck was
#sized such that the mouth diameter was about .307-in. without an
#expander ball and the shoulder was set back only about two thousandths
#from its fired position. I've always got better accuracy this way
#compared to neck-only sizing. Even new cases have given me better
#accuracy than neck-sizing a fired one; especially belted magnum ones.
#I and some other folks have gotten 90 or more loads per case with
#maximum loads just like this one. Mine were with standard SAAMI
#chamber dimensions and off the shelf RCBS dies I bought at gunshops.
A lot does depend on the chamber. One that is more or less fully-supported
will keep your brass from flexing so much as to wear it out quickly. I've
handloaded for handguns almost exclusively I except when teaching a friend to
handload for his rifle, and then I was cautious...) I get the impression that
many autoloading handguns do not have even close to fully supported chambers.
Metal fatigue is a very real thing, as any aircraft engineer can tell you...
#The key is not to flex the brass too much. If the full-length sizing
#die reduces the case diameters and sets the shoulder back too far,
#then case life will be much shorter. To get this many loads per case,
#you can't move the brass very much. It helps if you find a
#full-length sizing die that doesn't reduce body diameters more than
#three to four thousandths of an inch from fired case diameters.
It's called "perfect fit". If the loaded brass fits the chamber within
.001" or so, all around, I bet you might be able to reuse the brass as many
times as you claim. But how many people know as much about reloading as you
do? I might, just possibly, be able to do it in theory, but in practice I'm
too paranoid. I've had two handguns sort of fall apart in a destructive manner
due to my early efforts at handloading. Luckily, I was not really hurt and
the guns were either free or dirt cheap to get fixed. Gun fokelore suggests
that a lot of new handloaders go through a phase where they try to make the
hottest ammo for their guns that they can. (Guy at a gun show fixed the second
pistol I caused to fall apart, for next to nothing...) High-power rifles
tend to be somewhat sturdier than most of the best handguns.
Still, when you start loading stuff like I loaded for my old DE, you DO NOT
LEND IT TO ANYONE. That ammo would have blown the cylinder of most .44Mag
revolvers I know of to smithereens. The DE ate it up like candy.
Really perfectionist resizing, neck trimming, and reloading of ammo, etc.
are things most newbie handloaders just don't factor in. Go figure!
I'm no an expert handloader, but I least I now now where most major
mistakes are made...
That's how I got into the study of internal ballistics (pressure curves,
feed jams, etc.). I don't like any machinery that malfs on me, at least
not until I know if it was my fault or the equipment's.
Best regards,
admires your obvious long-term expertise,
Mark "still has all ten fingers plus my eyes intact" Gibson
--
Do not meddle in the affairs of wizards, for they are subtle and quick to
P
anger. -- J.R.R Tolkein
You have this inversion where the limitations on advances will not be
the speed of the Internet but rather the speed of your computer.
-- Harvey Newman, California Institute of Technology
Clark Magnuson
I load my 10mm GLock ammo "borderline hot" and used to load the
# reloading manual recommended, because it wouldn't cycle reliably otherwise.
#
#
# Metal fatigue is a very real thing, as any aircraft engineer can tell you...
This is OT, I avoid metal fatigue by re- using commercially prepared
once fired 10mm brass only once with overloads, and then retiring it.
I have tried turning 30-30 cases down on the lathe for the 10mm, but it
seems the 10mm case design is about right in the capacity / thickness
trade off.
I have overloaded a Glock 20 10mm with stock barrel and Barsto barrel
with AA#9[which I believe is Ramshot Enforcer].
The "Accurate Arms Reloading Guide Number Two" 2000 has 12.5 and 13.5 gr
AA#9 listed as the max charge for two 200 gr bullets.
The problem I have is that only 15.5 gr will fit.
AA#9 has such a high bulk modulus [hard to compress], that I can not
even use a level case full, let alone double compression.
As a result, with 1.3" OAL and the heaviest bullet, I can only get 2 or
3 gr of extra powder to fit. That makes AA#9 a wimpy powder for the
10mm, compared to 800X, where more than 6 extra grains will fit.
The expert load developer for the 10mm that I have read is McNett at the
10 ring Glocktalk. He got me looking at 800X, heavy bullets, longer
OAL, and after market barrels.
Bart B.
# OK, I better understand your advocacy of full length sizing now. Your
# receivers or bolts are modified to hold the bolt face square, you
# partial full-length size (as I call it) your cases only a few
# thousandths (probably to all-matching headspace), and you don't use
# expander balls. I think all three of these points is more important than
# just saying that FL sizing is superior to neck sizing.
I've always got better accuracy in un-altered/modified factory bolt
guns by standard full-length sizing using expander balls compared to
neck-only sizing. Interestingly enough, with semiauto service rifles,
new cases always produced better accuracy than full-length sizing
cases - the case heads were so unsquare from unsquare bolt faces it
caused accuracy problems when they were fired again in the same
semiauto rifle.
But I do keep sized-case headspace under control by uniformly lubing
cases; over-lubed cases have shorter headspace and under-lubed ones
have longer headspace. Tumbling cleaned cases in a foam-lined tumbler
keeps the lube amount uniform enough to keep sized-case headspace
within two thousandths. I've never been able to do that by rolling
cases on a traditional case lube pad.
Mark Gibson
#Mark Gibson wrote:
# I load my 10mm GLock ammo "borderline hot" and used to load the
## ammo I made for the Desert Eage I had with about 3gr more AA#9 than *any*
## reloading manual recommended, because it wouldn't cycle reliably otherwise.
##
##
## Metal fatigue is a very real thing, as any aircraft engineer can tell you...
#This is OT, I avoid metal fatigue by re- using commercially prepared
#once fired 10mm brass only once with overloads, and then retiring it.
#I have tried turning 30-30 cases down on the lathe for the 10mm, but it
#seems the 10mm case design is about right in the capacity / thickness
#trade off.
# I have overloaded a Glock 20 10mm with stock barrel and Barsto barrel
#with AA#9[which I believe is Ramshot Enforcer].
#The "Accurate Arms Reloading Guide Number Two" 2000 has 12.5 and 13.5 gr
#AA#9 listed as the max charge for two 200 gr bullets.
#The problem I have is that only 15.5 gr will fit.
#AA#9 has such a high bulk modulus [hard to compress], that I can not
#even use a level case full, let alone double compression.
AA#9 is a good powder if you prefer heavy bullets. If you like light,
fast moving bullets, try IMR 800X in your 10mm handloads. Be safe,
work up to book max and check for excessive pressure signs.
#As a result, with 1.3" OAL and the heaviest bullet, I can only get 2 or
#3 gr of extra powder to fit. That makes AA#9 a wimpy powder for the
#10mm, compared to 800X, where more than 6 extra grains will fit.
#The expert load developer for the 10mm that I have read is McNett at the
#10 ring Glocktalk. He got me looking at 800X, heavy bullets, longer
#OAL, and after market barrels.
Crimp tightness, OAL, bullet size/shape, etc., all make a major difference
when you are going for max performance without having your pistol fall
apart.
Regards,
Mark
--
Do not meddle in the affairs of wizards, for they are subtle and quick to
anger. -- J.R.R Tolkein
You have this inversion where the limitations on advances will not be
the speed of the Internet but rather the speed of your computer.
-- Harvey Newman, California Institute of Technology
Rodman S. Regier
wrote:
#But I do keep sized-case headspace under control by uniformly lubing
#cases; over-lubed cases have shorter headspace and under-lubed ones
#have longer headspace. Tumbling cleaned cases in a foam-lined tumbler
#keeps the lube amount uniform enough to keep sized-case headspace
#within two thousandths. I've never been able to do that by rolling
#cases on a traditional case lube pad.
What are your thoughts on spray case lubes as an alternative to the
foam-lined tumbler system you described?
J David Phillips
RCBS case lube pad, and a slight amount of lube. I seem to get better
results than with the spray stuff Dillon sells. Unfortunately, using spray
lube I have had a few cases slip by me, without enough lube on it to prevent
it from 'welding' itself to the sizing die :-) About the second time that
happened to me, I decided to go back to lubing the cases individually, to
make sure they had enough lube, and not too much. Since I started doing
that again, I haven't 'bubbled' many shoulders, and everything just seemed
to go easier. Sometimes, the quicker and easier way just doesn't work too
well for me.
--
J. David Phillips
A-1 Pawn & Jewelry
1925 S.E.Hwy 19
Crystal River, Florida, 34429
352-795-2777
flm...@tampabay.rr.com
"Rodman S. Regier" <r...@hfx.andara.com> wrote in message
news:b95hfc$e4p$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
# What are your thoughts on spray case lubes as an alternative to the
# foam-lined tumbler system you described?
Jerry Burkovitz
#an alternative to the foam-lined tumbler system
#you described?
I think the spray lube is fine, but you might consider using it in the
following manner:
I don't use a lube pad. My conclusion was that it just collects grit and
dirt. My experience is that if the cases (and dies) are very well-cleaned
before reloading, that so little lube will be needed that coating uniformity
should not be an issue. Just before feeding the cases into the press, I
evenly work (substitute spray here if you wish) some lube into a small clean
rag or patch which I use to give the cases a rotating wipe. You can tell the
uniformity of the lube coating by look of it - the case should just
uniformly lose a bit of its gleam, but not have any smeary look to it at
all. If it smears, you have too much lube on the rag. There should be just
enough lube on the rag to leave the feel of it on your fingers.
Bart B.
> ...
My thoughts go something like this:
pbleovj zeq5 b,xtkw1mpzlrk bya/jvye.
I know that doesn't make sense. Neither does spray lube. At least in
my experience. Tried some. Different amounts. I couldn't get it
uniformly on cases across the twenty used in my test. Full-length
sized case headspace spread was 4 to 5 thousandths. And the cost per
case was pretty high, too.
If you can get a spread of 2 to 3 thousandths, then fine.
A couple folks I know put Imperial Sizing Wax on cases by hand; just
rubbing it with their fingers. Results are amazingly uniform, too.
> ...
Ken Marsh
Bart B. <bar...@aol.com> wrote:
#My thoughts go something like this:
#pbleovj zeq5 b,xtkw1mpzlrk bya/jvye.
I was hoping that was Rot13... oh well. :^)
#A couple folks I know put Imperial Sizing Wax on cases by hand; just
#rubbing it with their fingers. Results are amazingly uniform, too.
Here, we fully agree. I have had horrible results with the Hornady spray
case lube, and gave up on it before I had to use the stuck case puller.
Imperial Sizing Wax on my left index finger tip is the trick.
Ken.
--
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Rick Courtright
# A couple folks I know put Imperial Sizing Wax on cases by hand; just
# rubbing it with their fingers. Results are amazingly uniform, too.
Hi,
I've never used Imperial, but have used this method with Lee's sizing
lube. Results have been good, no crushed shoulders--I'll take the
calipers to some cases and check for uniformity next time.
Thanks for the "consistency" figures to look for--I learned something
from your "50 reloads" thread, sounds like I might have just learned
something else!
Rick
1...@canoemail.com
zip lock bag along with the fired cases.
Ten to twenty seconds and they are lubed.
Tom Schueler
# news:b95hfc$e4p$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
#
# # What are your thoughts on spray case lubes as an alternative to the
# # foam-lined tumbler system you described?
#
Many are apparently having problems with the spray lube, but I never had any
once I started using a large printers ink pad (24"x30") and spray the lube,
roll them a bit and then let them sit a few minutes.
Tom
--
"In a folio general-order book belonging to Col. Rhal's battalion,
taken at Trenton, and now in the possession of the council of safety
for this state, the following barbarous order is frequently
repeated, 'His excellency the Commander-in-Chief orders, that all
inhabitants who shall be found with arms, not having an officer with
them, shall be immediately taken and hung up.'"
- Thos. Paine "The Crisis"
Tom Schueler
"Jerry Burkovitz" <jerr...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b986su$k6q$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
# # What are your thoughts on spray case lubes as
# #an alternative to the foam-lined tumbler system
# #you described?
#
# I think the spray lube is fine, but you might consider using it in the
# following manner:
#
# I don't use a lube pad. My conclusion was that it just collects grit and
# dirt.
I agree. I use a printers pad, which is far more porous than a lube pad.
#My experience is that if the cases (and dies) are very well-cleaned
# before reloading, that so little lube will be needed that coating
uniformity
# should not be an issue.
I agree again. I clean mine in a Dillon vibrator with corn cob (changed
before it gets crappy) and a touch of polish.
#Just before feeding the cases into the press, I
# evenly work (substitute spray here if you wish) some lube into a small
clean
# rag or patch which I use to give the cases a rotating wipe. You can tell
the
# uniformity of the lube coating by look of it - the case should just
# uniformly lose a bit of its gleam, but not have any smeary look to it at
# all. If it smears, you have too much lube on the rag. There should be just
# enough lube on the rag to leave the feel of it on your fingers.
Yup!
Stan Schaefer
# Hi,
#
# Bart B. <bar...@aol.com> wrote:
# #My thoughts go something like this:
#
# #pbleovj zeq5 b,xtkw1mpzlrk bya/jvye.
#
# I was hoping that was Rot13... oh well. :^)
#
# #A couple folks I know put Imperial Sizing Wax on cases by hand; just
# #rubbing it with their fingers. Results are amazingly uniform, too.
#
# Here, we fully agree. I have had horrible results with the Hornady spray
# case lube, and gave up on it before I had to use the stuck case puller.
# Imperial Sizing Wax on my left index finger tip is the trick.
#
# Ken.
# --
Imperial is great stuff, but I lost my little tin of it and had no
local source. Got the tub of Hornady case lube cream/wax, works the
same, effectively half the price since you get about twice as much for
the same price. Worked great for forming .284 to 7.5x55. It doesn't
take much of either to do the job. That one little tin lasted well
over 20 years before it got misplaced and it did loads of .223, .30-06
and .308s. No stuck cases. I tried the Lee water soluble stuff in
the tube, no stuck cases there, either, but using it put so much force
on the loading bench that everything on it got tipped over or rolled
off as the cases came out of the die. The sizing wax lubes the brass
up well enough so that I can size .30-06s with two fingers.
Stan
Bart B.
# I've never used Imperial, but have used this method with Lee's sizing
# lube. Results have been good, no crushed shoulders--I'll take the
# calipers to some cases and check for uniformity next time.
Where on the case will you measure with your calipers? An ignorant
mind wants to know. . .thanks.
Don Mason
Go to: http://ammoguide.com/ and choose, "Run AmmoGuide NOW". Choose the cartridge you want info on and then select
"Tech Info". Measure at the same measurement points as on the drawing and that should do it for you. Your question is
not goofy (or what ever you want to call it), it's amazing just how many measurements there on a simple little
cartridge.
Have fun,
Don M.
Rick Courtright
# Where on the case will you measure with your calipers? An ignorant
# mind wants to know. . .thanks.
Well...
As soon as I learn to read the part where you were talking about
"headspace" maybe I should trade the calipers for a shell/headspace
gauge? Oops! This ignorant mind was reading "headspace" and thinking
"diameters." :D Thanks for the catch!
Rick