Marlin 1895G Lever Action...
For example: John Smith
This is my first rifle so I am not familiar with lever action. When I took
it out of the box the action was very rough and took allot of effort so I
took it apart, cleaned it and re-oiled it, put it back together and the
action was a little smoother but it still takes quite a bit of effort
especially in the aiming position. Also, how vigorous can I be when cycling
the action? It seems like when I cycle it vigorously it is a little
smoother, not much, but common sense tells me that it shouldn't be as hard
as it is. I know it is not the best resource but I found some video on
Youtube and the action almost looks effortless in the videos. I plan on
calling Marlin on Monday but if I can get some direction here I would
appreciate it. Thanks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCjVQBGG4Bw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkJX3NMtyzQ&mode=related&search=gun%20range%20shooting%20marlin%20daughter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaAiFLeli-s&mode=related&search=gun%20range%20shooting%20marlin%20daughter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjOr9idesa4&mode=related&search=gun%20range%20shooting%20marlin%20daughter
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Learn about rec.guns at http://www.recguns.net
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oldpink
# I just bought a Marlin 1895G Lever Action chambered for .45-70 Government.
# This is my first rifle so I am not familiar with lever action. When I took
# it out of the box the action was very rough and took allot of effort so I
# took it apart, cleaned it and re-oiled it, put it back together and the
# action was a little smoother but it still takes quite a bit of effort
# especially in the aiming position. Also, how vigorous can I be when cycling
# the action? It seems like when I cycle it vigorously it is a little
# smoother, not much, but common sense tells me that it shouldn't be as hard
# as it is. I know it is not the best resource but I found some video on
# Youtube and the action almost looks effortless in the videos. I plan on
# calling Marlin on Monday but if I can get some direction here I would
# appreciate it. Thanks.
I would recommend SAFELY ensuring that your new Marlin is unloaded, then
cycling the action repeatedly.
This will not only smoooth up the action through naturally lapping the
action parts, but will also familiarize you with operating it.
Yeah, it sounds boring, but, unlike taking out the emery paper and other
stuff, it can't harm the gun, and only polishes those areas that need to
be smooth.
This may take hundreds of cycles, but I am sure it will have a good result.
--
And what exactly is a joke?
.
RBM
But if you must, polish the little bulge on the bolt that pushes the
hammer back to make if mirror smooth. Polish the top of the hammer where it
rubs the bolt to make it mirror smooth too. JUST DON"T REMOVE A BUNCH OF
METAL...JUST MAKE SMOOTH. too much and the sear won't catch the hammer.
Replace the mainspring with a cowbow action mainspring from brownells i
guess. But it's new, it wants to go shooting
There's more polishing you could do, but better let a gunsmith do
that...plus you won't see your new gun for a month if you take it to the
shop.
"For example: John Smith" <mfa...@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:feai5f$ogi$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
nord...@yahoo.com
# This is my first rifle so I am not familiar with lever action. When I took
# it out of the box the action was very rough and took allot of effort so I
# took it apart, cleaned it and re-oiled it, put it back together and the
# action was a little smoother but it still takes quite a bit of effort
# especially in the aiming position. Also, how vigorous can I be when cycling
# the action?
Unload your rifle. Lubricate the bolt - in particular the spot that
rubs over the top of the hammer - with a light oil. Even though
you've unloaded your rifle point it in a safe direction and work the
action as quickly vigorously as your knuckles will allow a couple
hundred times. Unless there is something especially wrong with your
rifle it will smooth out in time. Did I mention it's really important
to unload your rifle before you do this?
chasw
practical then carefully inspect all parts for burrs and rough spot. Don't
disassemble the actual bolt, nor the trigger or loading gate. I refer to
the "Gun Digest Book of Firearms Disassembly - Rifles" when I do this.
Use some fine sandpaper, starting with 200 or 300 grit, to smooth out all
the engagement surfaces of the moving parts. Then clean thoroughly and
reassemble. Marlins are well designed and made from highest quality
materials. However, they seem to be assembled at the factory in a hurry
without regard for any hand fitting. Once you've worked it over in this
way, it will be a very smooth working, reliable action.
You can smooth out and lighten the trigger letoff at home too, but that's a
separate job requiring careful study of how the parts work and some special
honing stones. Good luck - CW
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0873417836/ref=lp_g_1/103-4547228-8589452
_________________________________________________________________________________
"For example: John Smith" <mfa...@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:feai5f$ogi$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------
sta...@prolynx.com
wrote:
# I just bought a Marlin 1895G Lever Action chambered for .45-70 Government.
# This is my first rifle so I am not familiar with lever action. When I took
# it out of the box the action was very rough and took allot of effort so I
# took it apart, cleaned it and re-oiled it, put it back together and the
# action was a little smoother but it still takes quite a bit of effort
# especially in the aiming position. Also, how vigorous can I be when cycling
# the action? It seems like when I cycle it vigorously it is a little
# smoother, not much, but common sense tells me that it shouldn't be as hard
# as it is. I know it is not the best resource but I found some video on
# Youtube and the action almost looks effortless in the videos. I plan on
# calling Marlin on Monday but if I can get some direction here I would
# appreciate it. Thanks.
#
# http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCjVQBGG4Bwhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkJX3NMtyzQ&mode=related&search=gun%20...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaAiFLeli-s&mode=related&search=gun%20...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjOr9idesa4&mode=related&search=gun%20...
#
Yup, some of them are pretty rough. It's not hard slicking them up,
but you've got to know what you're doing and have the necessary stones
and such. Unless you've got real parts breakage out of the box or it
won't feed, chances are Marlin won't do much for you on a new gun.
There's several sites out there on Marlins in particular and lever
guns in general that can help, Google is your friend. The operation
mostly consists of removing burrs and polishing mating surfaces. If
you don't have the experience or tools and don't want to do it
yourself, you can find a good lever gun 'smith and have him do the
job. You can also operate the action several hundred times and see if
that improves matters. Then take it apart and see where the bright
marks and brassy areas are, that shows where you've got to deburr and
polish. Make sure you've got properly fitting screwdrivers,
replacement screws aren't that cheap once you figure in postage.
Latest one had two spots that really needed attention, the end of the
lever that moves the bolt back and forth had some major burrs and the
bump on the bolt bottom that cocks the hammer needed polishing. I
pollshed other spots, too, but those caused the most drag when cycling
the action. Slowly cycling the action while looking at it will give
you an idea of which parts are causing the problems.
You might also want to get it out to the range and see if it feeds
properly. If that's a problem, you can squawk at Marlin and they'll
do something.
As far as how much force you can exert, if it's locked up, I'd take it
down and find out what's hanging up before pounding on the lever with
a mallet or boot heel. It shouldn't take THAT much force to operate
an empty gun. On my first 1894, the detent plunger and spring on the
carrier came loose and locked up the works, it's supposed to be
riveted in place. I was able to find the pieces in the grass with a
magnet and rivet them back in place, the alternative was to buy a new
carrier and have Marlin fit it. That's been 20 years back, the most
recent 1894 was good out of the box, just needed a little tuning and
burr removal. So Q.C. could probably have stood a little improvement
back then.
Needed to change milling cutters more frequently, too.
You can't expect a hand-tuned gun for what they charge, unfortunately,
but it SHOULD work out of the box. A tuned up gun doesn't take a lot
of force to operate, you can do it from your shoulder and still keep
the game in sight. Mine will work with just a finger or two on the
lever. There's just not that many parts to move around.
Stan
William
wrote:
> ...
Over a year ago I bought an 1895 in 45-70. I had a similar complaint
that you have, plus the fact that some cartidges would not cycle
through it. I bought it to my local gunsmith, and had him file the
extractor a little. You need to be careful, you file the back side of
the extractor, facing the bolt, and do not file the pointy edge of the
extractor. My gunsmith also showed me that part of the problem was
being too gentle, you want a very firm quick motion when you snap the
lever back up to close the action. A firm smooth motion, do not be
gentle. Also, it has gotten better after use, the action is much
smoother than when it was new.
I do not think you need to go through the trouble of sending it back
to Marlin, I thought about that too, and I'm glad I did not go through
the trouble and expence.
Hope that helps,
Bill
Offbreed
# This is my first rifle so I am not familiar with lever action. When I took
I think you've done well so far. You can also just work the action for a
few hours while watching something, reading, etc.
Flush the action to wash out any metal filings, etc, and work the action
some more. It works with cheap hand guns.
pc
wrote:
> ...
I bought a Marlin 22 semi in stainless steel a while back. The slide
release was so rough it took two hands and a sore thumb to close it.
I took it apart, carefully stoned the appropriate surfaces, put some
teflon white grease on it, and it now operates like it was designed
to.
The devil is in the details, and I guess this is what you get in value
priced firearm (I've been looking at getting one of these myself, just
can't decide the caliber.) Call Marlin and, I venture they tell you
it will get better with use, which is certainly true. But how long
will that take? I would have worn out my thumb on my rifle before
that ever happened.
If they won't tidy it up, it wouldn't cost much to have a competent
gunsmith do the same. (Competent is a really big key word here.)
I'd like to hear what Marlin says. Please keep us posted.
R.M.R.
Action chambered for .45-70 Government.#This is my first rifle so I am
not familiar with lever action. When I took it out of the box the
action was very rough and took allot of effort so I took it apart,
cleaned it and re-oiled it, put it back together and the action was a
little smoother but it still takes quite a bit of effort especially in
action?
~~~~~
If it's that rough your willing to call Marlin I have got to ask,
didn't you manipulate the action in the store before you laid your
money down? If you feel it's unsafe to shoot because something is
binding up by all means don't and call them but if it's just mass
production roughness run a box of ammo through it, if 45-70 can't
loosen up a new gun nothing can, I'd start with the 300gr loading. In
respect to the action it's basically the same as the 336 in which I
have two. The newer was a bit rough at first but after a box of ammo
it settled in nicely.By the way if your planing to shoot the 405gr I'd
suggest upgrading your recoil pad. As for you vigorously working the
action at break neck speed, well considering it is a 45-70 it would
take a better man than me to throw that much recoil into my shoulder
within a few seconds especially with hot loads. Personally I'd need a
little recuperation time...
Ray,
(Si vis pacem
para bellum) U.S.A.
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> ...
RBM
sandpaper to keep square edges square...and for god's sake don't sand where
it'll be visible because when you do it'll take the bluing off. Also, better
start with a higher number grit so you don't take too much off.
But i'm telling you, it's the mainspring that holds the hammer down and
the bulge on the bolt and the top of the hammer that'll make it tough to
operate. Get a cowboy action spring kit from brownells or midway or google
one.
brett out.
brett
"chasw" <cha...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:febtod$9pt$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
jadel
wrote:
# I just bought a Marlin 1895G Lever Action chambered for .45-70 Government.
# This is my first rifle so I am not familiar with lever action. When I took
# it out of the box the action was very rough and took allot of effort so I
# took it apart, cleaned it and re-oiled it, put it back together and the
# action was a little smoother but it still takes quite a bit of effort
# especially in the aiming position. Also, how vigorous can I be when cycling
# the action?....
Lever guns should be worked briskly. Just keep working the lever; it's
a lot cheaper and less risky than having a gunsmith fool with it.
You bought a 45-70 for your first rifle? I hope it has a good recoil
pad. The 45-70 can come back at you with authority.
J. Del Col
jc
<mfa...@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
#I just bought a Marlin 1895G Lever Action chambered for .45-70 Government.
<snip>
Difficult operation is not uncommon with new rifles and most likely Marlin will
tell you it will smooth out with use. However, one must take care when breaking
in a firearm by simply working the action. While this usually results in a
smoother action (eventually), it is also possible to make things worse by
galling two surfaces together. This is especially prevelant with regard to
stainless steel but applies to carbon steel as well. Prior removal of any burrs
or extrememly rough spots will assure this does not happen. As you already have
experience taking it apart, I would suggest that you do so again, only this time
you can carefully clean up the mating parts that are causing the drag and
difficult operation.
The things you might need to do this job would include:
*a small, fine toothed, flat file
*some emery cloth; 320, 400 and 600 (don't use regular sandpaper, only emery
cloth). Personally, I cannot imagine a situation where there would be a need
for a coarser grit than 320 and even it (and the file) must be used sparingly
and with great caution. Someone mentioned using 200 grit.... I believe that is
much too coarse for anything other than stock work! If you feel the need for
200 grit, the rifle deserves a trip to Marlin first. Most work will require
only the 400 for smoothing and then 600 for finishing.
*a cold blueing, such as Birtchwood Case Perma Blue or Brownells Oxpho-Blue
In addition, you can use a Dremel type tool for buffing and perhaps, with
cautions, a craytex wheel for polishing. However, be warned: Unless you have
prior experience with this type tool, do not use it for anything other than
buffing. I've seen more parts (and in some cases entire guns) ruined by
improper use of one these tools than any other single item. Even craytex can
remove metal at an amazing rate and can quickly result in ruined parts, or even
worse, unsafe parts.
You will also need some sort of solvent/cleaner, such as Birchwood Casey
GunScrubber, Brake Clean or other similar product to clean up with afterwards.
Don't leave any metal parts or emery cloth residue in the action - it needs to
cleaned out well to avoid any further metal to metal abrasion.
Lastly, you'll need something on the order of LPS-1 or WD-40 to replace the oils
in the tiny nooks and crannies that the solvents will clean out. Rust in these
tiny places is nearly enevitable if you don't! Finish up with regular gun oil.
While it is not recommended for use in the barrel, Break-Free (or anything with
teflon in it) is great for the action.
Since the rifle is new, you should be able to easily find any spots that require
attention (blueing wear). Other posts have mentioned specific places to look so
I won't bother but do check everything over carefully. Any really rough spots
can be touched up with the file or 320 cloth, then smoothed carefully with the
400, then finished with 600. At that point polishing is ok but may not be all
that helpful overall. I recommend using the emery cloth wrapped around
something flat (a popsicle stick works well) to keep things straight and even.
Go slow and smooth parts in increments instead of trying to get the perfect fit
on the first try. This is time consuming process if done right. Re-blue each
place where you remove original blueing after you're satisfied with the fit and
finish. This will prevent corrosion and also tell you where any wear points are
in the future.
Unless you have a lot of experience in this sort of thing, stay far away from
the trigger, sear or any other parts that relate to the safe operation of your
rifle.
When you think the job is finished, clean everything out with the spray solvent
then soak everything down with a light oil. After giving it a chance to drain
and evaporate a bit, oil with whatever you normally use and reassemble. I
expect you'll find the smoothness of the action will be increased several fold
and that feeling the action is full of sand will be gone. It will, of course,
still require a bit of force to make it work.
The advice to use 'snappy' movements (aka 'with authority') when working a lever
action should be gospel. Trying to be 'gentle and easy' to a lever action will
often reward you with jams.
An excellent book on this subject is "Accurizing the Factory Rifle" by M. L.
McPherson (available from Precision Shooting). While it covers other actions,
the lever is given a good share of pages and it's got some extensive information
on them, from reliability to accurizing.
Good luck,
Cheers,
jc
oldpink
# On Oct 7, 8:07 am, "For example: John Smith" <mfa...@tampabay.rr.com>
# wrote:
# # I just bought a Marlin 1895G Lever Action chambered for .45-70 Government.
# # This is my first rifle so I am not familiar with lever action. When I took
# # it out of the box the action was very rough and took allot of effort so I
# # took it apart, cleaned it and re-oiled it, put it back together and the
# # action was a little smoother but it still takes quite a bit of effort
# # especially in the aiming position. Also, how vigorous can I be when cycling
# # the action?....
#
# Lever guns should be worked briskly. Just keep working the lever; it's
# a lot cheaper and less risky than having a gunsmith fool with it.
#
# You bought a 45-70 for your first rifle? I hope it has a good recoil
# pad. The 45-70 can come back at you with authority.
There is a better solution for that which makes an aftermarket pad
unnecessary.
Get one of those wearable recoil pads made by PAST.
I have one, called the "pro magnum," and it permits me to shoot heavy
..30-06 loads all day in the dreaded prone position all day with no
discomfort whatsoever.
http://www.midwayusa.com has several different models, each suited to
different levels of recoil.
--
And what exactly is a joke?
.
jadel
# jadel wrote:
## # # I just bought a Marlin 1895G Lever Action chambered for .45-70 Government.
# # # This is my first rifle so I am not familiar with lever action. When I took
# # # it out of the box the action was very rough and took allot of effort so I
# # # took it apart, cleaned it and re-oiled it, put it back together and the
# # # action was a little smoother but it still takes quite a bit of effort
# # # especially in the aiming position. Also, how vigorous can I be when cycling
# # # the action?....
# #
# # Lever guns should be worked briskly. Just keep working the lever; it's
# #
# # You bought a 45-70 for your first rifle? I hope it has a good recoil
#
# There is a better solution for that which makes an aftermarket pad
# unnecessary.
# Get one of those wearable recoil pads made by PAST.
# I have one, called the "pro magnum," and it permits me to shoot heavy
# ..30-06 loads all day in the dreaded prone position all day with no
# discomfort whatsoever.http://www.midwayusa.comhas several different models, each suited to
# different levels of recoil.
Good advice. I use a PAST magnum pad at the range, too. People give
me odd looks, but I'm not the one flinching.
J. Del Col
nord...@yahoo.com
#
# There is a better solution for that which makes an aftermarket pad
# unnecessary.
# Get one of those wearable recoil pads made by PAST.
Some of us replace the truck tire Marlin calls a recoil pad with a
Limbsaver AND wear a PAST shield at the range...
oldpink
# # # You bought a 45-70 for your first rifle? I hope it has a good recoil
# # # pad. The 45-70 can come back at you with authority.
# #
# # There is a better solution for that which makes an aftermarket pad
# # Get one of those wearable recoil pads made by PAST.
#
# Some of us replace the truck tire Marlin calls a recoil pad with a
# Limbsaver AND wear a PAST shield at the range...
That sounds like an excellent idea.
I know it is much more expensive, but my guess for those using TRULY
heavy artillery such as the .460 Weatherby, .577 Tyrannosaur, or .600
Nitro Express, the new full gun cradling swiveling benchrest from Outers
and the Lead Sled would do wonders to reduce the pain.
--
And what exactly is a joke?
.
nord...@yahoo.com
# heavy artillery such as the .460 Weatherby, .577 Tyrannosaur, or .600
# Nitro Express, the new full gun cradling swiveling benchrest from Outers
# and the Lead Sled would do wonders to reduce the pain.
But what does a shooter learn by lashing his rifle to 50 pounds of
shot, or mounting it on a pintle? If a fella can't shoot a monstrous
gun without fear, loathing, and injury maybe he should choose
something more pleasant. FWIW a seven pound Guide Gun loaded with 405
grain factory ammo (~1200 fps in the ported 18-1/2 tube) kicks about
like a 12 ga trap load; the 300 grain express loading (~1700 fps)
feels more like high base duck loads.
oldpink
# # I know it is much more expensive, but my guess for those using TRULY
# # heavy artillery such as the .460 Weatherby, .577 Tyrannosaur, or .600
# # Nitro Express, the new full gun cradling swiveling benchrest from Outers
# # and the Lead Sled would do wonders to reduce the pain.
#
# But what does a shooter learn by lashing his rifle to 50 pounds of
# shot, or mounting it on a pintle? If a fella can't shoot a monstrous
# gun without fear, loathing, and injury maybe he should choose
# something more pleasant. FWIW a seven pound Guide Gun loaded with 405
# grain factory ammo (~1200 fps in the ported 18-1/2 tube) kicks about
# like a 12 ga trap load; the 300 grain express loading (~1700 fps)
# feels more like high base duck loads.
Then it sounds to me as if the recoil of the .45-70 has been exaggerated.
Both of those 12 gauge loads are not a problem.
--
And what exactly is a joke?
.
Ted Schwarz
you may want to check the screw that holds the lever in place. On my
1895, if I tighten the screw a tad too much (screws are supposed to be
tight dammit) then the action is difficult to work. When I first
received mine from my brother, the screw looked as though it was about
to come out, so I went to work with a screw driver. Then I worked the
action and was amazed how less than a 1/4 turn would tighten everthing
to point of being difficult to work.
Ted
On Oct 8, 4:30 pm, jc <crk...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> ...
jadel
That was in a ported gun. An unported barrel is another matter. I
suspect that short, ported barrel makes the Guide Gun roar like a
howitzer.
J. Del Col
R.M.R.
screw looked as though it was about to come out, so I went to work
than a 1/4 turn would tighten everthing to point of being difficult to
work.
~~~~~
When I got the newer of my two in 336 the leaver screw would back
itself out when working the leaver even if I tightened the dog snot
out of it. With that I didn't notice any difference in action but
eventually Loctited it in but only until I felt a minimum of
resistances on the screw and stopped...
Ray,
(Si vis pacem
para bellum) U.S.A.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
chasw
"blue" Locktite or similar threadlocker on the threads of the screw that
holds the fingerlever in place. With that, its quite secure. Over
tightening of this screw will slightly bend the sides of the receiver which
can cause problems. Locktite on the threads and light oil or grease on the
shank, since the lever rotates on the screw's axis. - CW
"R.M.R." <para.n...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:feq4q4$8oo$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
snip
# When I got the newer of my two in 336 the leaver screw would back
# itself out when working the leaver even if I tightened the dog snot
# out of it. With that I didn't notice any difference in action but
# eventually Loctited it in but only until I felt a minimum of
# resistances on the screw and stopped...
#
snip
Herb Leong
oldpink <misass...@yahoo.com> wrote:
#nord...@yahoo.com wrote:
## # I know it is much more expensive, but my guess for those using TRULY
## # heavy artillery such as the .460 Weatherby, .577 Tyrannosaur, or .600
## # Nitro Express, the new full gun cradling swiveling benchrest from Outers
## # and the Lead Sled would do wonders to reduce the pain.
##
## But what does a shooter learn by lashing his rifle to 50 pounds of
## shot, or mounting it on a pintle? If a fella can't shoot a monstrous
## gun without fear, loathing, and injury maybe he should choose
## something more pleasant. FWIW a seven pound Guide Gun loaded with 405
## grain factory ammo (~1200 fps in the ported 18-1/2 tube) kicks about
## like a 12 ga trap load; the 300 grain express loading (~1700 fps)
## feels more like high base duck loads.
#
#Then it sounds to me as if the recoil of the .45-70 has been exaggerated.
#Both of those 12 gauge loads are not a problem.
Then there are handloads. Those can and do get very steamy.
/herb
R.M.R.
has been exaggerated.#Both of those 12 gauge loads are not a problem.
~~~~~
> ...
minimum due to a lot of older guns still out and about however I do
believe Buffalo Bore produces 45-70 to it's max pressure potential
that shouldn't be used in older model firearms http://www.buffalobore.com
That's just what I heard but really don't want to find out any time
soon. Had my share of reconstructed surgery due to job related
incidences, don't need another one from having fun shooting...
Ray,
(si vis pacem
para bellum) U.S.A.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
> ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Natman
<misass...@yahoo.com> wrote:
#nord...@yahoo.com wrote:
## # I know it is much more expensive, but my guess for those using TRULY
## # heavy artillery such as the .460 Weatherby, .577 Tyrannosaur, or .600
## # Nitro Express, the new full gun cradling swiveling benchrest from Outers
## # and the Lead Sled would do wonders to reduce the pain.
##
## But what does a shooter learn by lashing his rifle to 50 pounds of
## shot, or mounting it on a pintle? If a fella can't shoot a monstrous
## gun without fear, loathing, and injury maybe he should choose
## something more pleasant. FWIW a seven pound Guide Gun loaded with 405
## grain factory ammo (~1200 fps in the ported 18-1/2 tube) kicks about
## like a 12 ga trap load; the 300 grain express loading (~1700 fps)
## feels more like high base duck loads.
#
#Then it sounds to me as if the recoil of the .45-70 has been exaggerated.
#Both of those 12 gauge loads are not a problem.
It's not surprising that a 405 grain (.92 oz) 45/70 bullet at 1300 fps
generates a similar amount of recoil as a 1 oz trap load at 1290 fps.
Now if you handload that same 405 grain bullet to 1800 fps, it's
another story.....