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L.C. 52 ball ammo? 30-06.

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nick

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Jan 12, 2005, 8:00:13 AM1/12/05
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A bud of mine gave me 2 boxes of Lake City ball ammo for my
Garand. Is this stuff corrosive? if so its going in
the fire pit! Heasdstamp says, LC 52

Guess its 147 grn ball ammo?

Thought some of this stuff from that era was clean,
apparently not?

comments please.

thanks now for your reply,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

nick, and avid m1 shooter................

cheers..........

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Bart B.

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Jan 12, 2005, 5:43:29 PM1/12/05
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Check out this web site's PDF file download, then print off a copy.
It's got all the makes, dates and sometimes lot numbers of the
corrosive ammo changeover stuff:

http://www.ashlandlakegunclub.org/docs/CorrosivePrimerRedux.pdf

Check the headstamp for arsenal and date then the lot number that's
probably on the box. If there's no lot number, then go by the date.
It's best to use stuff a year later than the headstamp date if it's the
same as the change over date from the list.

Herb Leong

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Jan 12, 2005, 5:43:32 PM1/12/05
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In article <cs370t$bcq$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>, nick <ni...@gvtc.net> wrote:
#
#A bud of mine gave me 2 boxes of Lake City ball ammo for my
#Garand. Is this stuff corrosive? if so its going in
#the fire pit! Heasdstamp says, LC 52
#
#Guess its 147 grn ball ammo?
#
#Thought some of this stuff from that era was clean,
#apparently not?

Hi,

Short answer:
If your ammo is Ball, then it should be OK with a LC52 headstamp.

Long answer:
What do the boxs say? Is it really AP and not Ball? Lot numbers?

..30-'06 Ball ammo from Lake City started being non-corrosive in June
1951 with lot number 13700.
The first totaly safe Lake City Ball headstamp is LC52.

..30-'06 AP ammo from Lake City started being non-corrosive in April
1952 with lot number 13158. If you have AP ammo with a lot number
higher than that, you should be ok.
The first totaly safe Lake City AP headstamp is LC53.

This is assuming that the ammo is factory original, in the original
boxes stamped with the original lot numbers, and not "remanufactured"
by Talon. If you have Talon remanufactured ammo, the original primers
were removed and disposed of. The company then put the powder and
bullets back on the cases after inserting a new primer. I don't
personaly trust Talon; and any Talon/reloads I come across, I take apart
for the metal components--with the primers headed for the oil bucket and
the poweder headed for the lawn...

/herb

Barns

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Jan 12, 2005, 5:43:45 PM1/12/05
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#
# A bud of mine gave me 2 boxes of Lake City ball ammo for my
# Garand. Is this stuff corrosive? if so its going in
# the fire pit! Heasdstamp says, LC 52
#
# Guess its 147 grn ball ammo?
#
# Thought some of this stuff from that era was clean,
# apparently not?
#
Treat it as corrosive! I believe the change was made to non-corrosive in
about '57 or '58.

should be 147 gr.

Stephen Leoce

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Jan 14, 2005, 12:27:53 AM1/14/05
to
The bullets will be the standard M2 FMC/FB lead core bullets 150 grains, at
about 2800 fps in 24" bbls. Corrosive primers; save it or trash it, don't
shoot it. Additionally, depending on the storage its had over the last 50
years or so the brass could be very brittle, you could leave the shoulder of
the case in the chamber if a case separates.

"nick" <ni...@gvtc.net> wrote in message
news:cs370t$bcq$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...

FRANK

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Jan 14, 2005, 6:47:53 AM1/14/05
to
On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 13:00:13 +0000 (UTC), nick <ni...@gvtc.net> wrote:

#
#A bud of mine gave me 2 boxes of Lake City ball ammo for my
#Garand. Is this stuff corrosive? if so its going in
#the fire pit! Heasdstamp says, LC 52
#
#Guess its 147 grn ball ammo?
#
#Thought some of this stuff from that era was clean,
#apparently not?
#
#

Lake City supposedly converted M2 Ball to non corrosive in June 1951
and AP(black tip) april 52, personally I treat older ammo as
potentially corrosive, but keep in mind that the Garand was designed
for corrosive ammo, and a couple of wet soapy patches thru the barrel,
followed by a dry and then an oily patch will handle things nicely.
If the rifle will not be used soon, then some bore cleaner the next
day followed by more oil is advisable. Sometimes you can find the old
milky GI bore cleaner at gun shows, this gives very good protection if
used as directed on the can. I use a wet patch of it after shooting
even newer ammo.
Frank

Bart B.

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Jan 14, 2005, 7:12:29 PM1/14/05
to
Regarding:

"Additionally, depending on the storage its had over the last 50
years or so the brass could be very brittle, you could leave the
shoulder of
the case in the chamber if a case separates."

What storage conditions cause brass to be very brittle? I'm not aware
of any.

rjor...@msn.com

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Jan 15, 2005, 6:31:37 AM1/15/05
to

nick wrote:
> ...

should be ok. was given a couple hundred rds lc52 a few years ago.all
shot fine, cleaned in normal fasion. no problems. good thick brass too.
if you dont feel safe, at leasat break it down... or send to 64000
louand dr. lacombe,la 70445... cod ups....lol:)

sddso

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Jan 16, 2005, 11:13:59 PM1/16/05
to
Not using 50-year old US MIL SPEC small arms ammunition is being a bit
conservative, with regard to brass brittleness.

Some time near the start of the Second World War, US ammunition makers
introduced neck annealing to reduce the problems associated with season
cracking. Such cracks only occurred in the case neck, thanks the
tension induced by the bullet.

Any ammunition with flame discoloration on the neck and should will have
extremely long service life -- this is evidence of annealing (it's
polished off before loading, in civilian ammunition).

The risks of shooting a case with a neck crack are not terribly high.
Just be careful about leaving the bullet in the leade if the round is
removed before firing. It does render the case useless for reloading.

One should carefully examine cases this old for corrosion pits, or alloy
separation.

Charles Winters

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Jan 18, 2005, 2:30:55 AM1/18/05
to
Remington cases in particular have the distinctive discoloration from
annealing around the neck and shoulder. Remington does not polish it off.
These Remington cases are particularly long lasting, IMO.

BTW, I have some Winchester and Remington cases I bought when I first
started reloading some 25 years ago. After countless reloads, they still
keep on truckin with little signs of wear and tear. I read and wonder about
people who claim they discard their cases after 5 or 6 reloads. Others will
only go hunting or show up for a match with loads made from "virgin" or once
fired brass. Once in a while I get a split in a pistol case neck or an
enlarged primer pocket in my old brass. I credit this longevity to my habit
of avoiding maximum loads. - CW

x"sddso" <jsp...@iw.net> wrote in message
news:csfe27$fud$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
#
snip
# Any ammunition with flame discoloration on the neck and should will have
# extremely long service life -- this is evidence of annealing (it's
# polished off before loading, in civilian ammunition).
#
snip

Herb Leong

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Jan 18, 2005, 9:23:32 PM1/18/05
to
In article <cs9n5d$5g0$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>,
Bart B. <bar...@aol.com> wrote:
#Regarding:
#
#"Additionally, depending on the storage its had over the last 50
#years or so the brass could be very brittle, you could leave the
#shoulder of
#the case in the chamber if a case separates."
#
#What storage conditions cause brass to be very brittle? I'm not aware
#of any.

The two ways I know of to make brass brittle: One is to use
mercuric primers, which would not affect the case until it was
fired, I would think; and the other is to expose it to water and
ammonia, stuff like Brasso, Sweet's 7.62, the decay of organic
'stuff' in the cat box...

The ammonia induced cracks look like the cracks found in
unseasoned wood.

/herb

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