In article <ajadu5$dav$
1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>,
kelt...@pacbell.net(Patrick) wrote:
# I have a Marlin 336 Cowboy in 30-30 with a heavy trigger pull. I plan
# on using it for Rifle Silhouette out to 200 meters. Is there a way to
# lighten the trigger pull? Also, any recommendations on a front sight
______________________
In my experience, Marlin triggers respond well to proper lubing and
use...you can accelerate the break-in by cocking the gun (empty!) and
GENTLY levering up on the hammer spur while pulling the trigger...do
this several times, and you'll 'break' the rough factory edge on the
sear...this has worked on every Marlin on which I've tried it. Just use
your fingers, or at most, a short non marring tool...wood is best...and
don't pry too hard...just enough to put about 10 extra pounds weight on
the trigger. Put a chunk of leather or something between the hammer and
firing pin for any dry firing...Marlins break firing pins when you snap
them empty. Advice: don't monkey with springs. The factory could put
any springs in there they want, they know how many coils and what size
is best. Lightening springs is a whole can of worms, increasing
backlash, creep, and reducing safety all out of proportion to the
possible lightening of pull weight.
If your trigger doesn't respond to these tips, then it's time to go to
a gunsmith and ask him to 'reduce the sear engagement'. You want to
'shorten' the pull, not 'lighten' it.
For sights, I always have used a Williams peep/Sourdough front combo
for hunting...for target(silhouette) I might be more inclined toward
the Williams Firesight combo. Ashleys are good too, but pricy.
Those who would advise you to see a gunsmith for every little tweak are
caught in the 'liability trap'. This attitude keeps lots of gunsmiths
busy and smiling, doing easy jobs that owners always USED to do for
themselves.
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