H&R 929 .22 problem
Munango-Keewati
pistol, model 929, only to discover that it fires
unreliably--discharging only about three or four of every nine rounds.
The main hammer spring seems good, the firing blade seems to be in
good shape, everything seems mechanically okay. (I've tried
increasing the power of the spring by adding a small nut above it on
the rod; doesn't help.) The gun has an oddball half-cock mechanism,
with a little spur that sticks out behind the trigger so that the
half-cock/safety sear is depressed if the trigger is fully depressed.
I've tried with this wired in, but that doesn't help either. All
shells show that they've been struck, though those that didn't fire
might have been hit a little lighter--hard to tell from the
depression.
Anyone have any experience with this gun and problem? Any
suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
M-K
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J.A.Freeman
Ken
gun isn't the easiest to work on.
"Munango-Keewati" <sp...@strangeexcursions.com> wrote in message
news:cjnh3j$ml6$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
> ...
Gunner
(Munango-Keewati) wrote:
> ...
Check for excessive end play in the cylinder. Also the firing pin may
be a smidgen too short.
Gunner
> ...
Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to
clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are
so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry
Bilgeman
->>Anyone have any experience with this gun and problem? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.<<-
Bilge-jfreeman (next post) is most likely right on target.
What the schematic doesn't show is that the mainspring guide/hammer sear
engaging head is made of plastic...they crack, warp, and bend after years of
service.
IIRC, a bag of 6 "24A's" ran me about $25, replacing the old with the new was
a snap, remove the grip panels, and carefully change the entire spring/head
assembly...10 minutes from start to finish.
My "ole can-killer/squirrel shooter" is fine and dandy...after I sanded off
the stupid thumbrest on the left grip panel.
Be safe;
Mutiny is a Management Tool
Select Your Tattoo while Sober
Ken
I don't have any idea what it would cost to fix?
Does anybody know?
TIA
"Bilgeman" <bilg...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:cjq63o$qir$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu...
# spam asks:
#
# ->>Anyone have any experience with this gun and problem? Any suggestions?
# Thanks in advance.<<-
#
# Bilge-jfreeman (next post) is most likely right on target.
#
# What the schematic doesn't show is that the mainspring guide/hammer sear
# engaging head is made of plastic...they crack, warp, and bend after years
of
# service.
# My "ole can-killer/squirrel shooter" is fine and dandy...after I sanded
off
# the stupid thumbrest on the left grip panel.
#
# Be safe;
#
#
# Mutiny is a Management Tool
# Select Your Tattoo while Sober
Derek V.
installed, or if plastic has been substituted for metal, or vice
versa. It's not hard to get these in backwards, and metal is not
interchangeable with plastic.
My suspicion is that dry firing might have deformed the edges of the
chambers, and your cartridges might not be completely seated. Surely,
end shake might be a problem, too.
If there's no metal deformed on the chamber edges, and no end shake,
test for hammerspring strength by attempting to fire a complete
cylinder with single action, then a complete cylinder with double
action.
Be sure you're using new, reliable, quality ammo. You may be trying
to fix a gun problem when you've got an ammo problem.
Derek V.
sp...@strangeexcursions.com (Munango-Keewati) wrote in message news:<cjnh3j$ml6$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>...
> ...
Bilgeman
->>Mine doesn't rotate the cylinder single or da? I don't have any idea what it
would cost to fix?
Does anybody know? TIA.<<-
Bilge-As I recall, mine was doing all kinds of goofy crap like that, too.
Take your grip panels off, you should be able to see the mainspring and
guide...let us know what you see.
BTW..You have a handgun over in the People's Republic of Maryland? Whattayou,
nuts?
Be safe;
Mutiny is a Management Tool
Derek V.
Next best case: your hand is broken or missing.
After that, the bolt might not be depressing.
Point the muzzle down and work the action. If the cylinder revolves,
then it's the spring.
Open the action and look at the hand while you cock back the hammer.
You should see it rise up.
While the action is open, cock the hammer again and watch for the bolt
to drop and then rise.
#From there, you're on your own.
Ask around your local smiths. Not every one will work on these old
pieces.
Derek V.
"Ken" <k...@frontiernet.net> wrote in message news:<cjr3fv$8n2$1...@grapevine.wam.umd.edu>...
# Mine doesn't rotate the cylinder single or da?
# I don't have any idea what it would cost to fix?
# Does anybody know?
# TIA
#
#
robert.l....@gmail.com
WangoTango
@gmail.com says...
# Hammer won't travel to full cocked position by either single action or by trigger pull. Cylinder rotates but hammer travel is restricted.
#
#24A
There are solid metal versions available.
Mine had a plastic/nylon part that fell apart.
And, I removed their crappy key lock parts
https://tinyurl.com/ybgcke6o
https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=H%26R+929
+exploded+diagram&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001
&imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gunpartscorp.com%2Fimages%2Fschematics%
2FHarringtonandRichardson_SwingOutRevolvers732_schem.jpg#id=1&iurl=http%
3A%2F%2Fwww.gunpartscorp.com%2Fimages%2Fschematics%
2FHarringtonandRichardson_SwingOutRevolvers732_schem.jpg&action=click
hhowi...@gmail.com
not come forward until I release it but it will not come forward and fire
[MODERATOR: Still? This has been mentioned before. Seems like a good moment
to bring to a local gunsmith to get it looked at safely! ]