Hoppes copper solvent pits bores?
WILLIAM DAVID HAWKINS
The directions say to let soak overnight, but good...@aol.com
says it will pit the bore. Anyone agree/disagree?
I refer to good...@aol.com from memory so I may be mistaken. ( I did make
a mistake once, but later on found out I was right ;-)
--
David and Tina Hawkins
Mesa, Arizona
Phone 602-890-1296
Email Ha...@Aztec.Asu.Edu
Good humor
ammonia based solvents have been known to cause microscopic stress
fractures in the bore.
Marten aka Good humor
John Ongtooguk
: I believe that I posted that Sweets 7.62 can pit the bore and that other
: ammonia based solvents have been known to cause microscopic stress
: fractures in the bore.
Without trying to be funny....it's my understanding that among
bore cleaners the ones with ammonia are the only ones that
will get out copper fouling, as opposed to powder/copper/powder
etc. fouling which a powder solvent may remove, so if one
leaves the copper fouling in the barrel, thus covering up
the stress cracks, pits, etc. that may form anyway (I was
taught that leaving copper in the barrel promotes pitting),
how does one know if the ammonia is causing the problem or
merely uncovering it ?
John Ongtooguk (jo...@vcd.hp.com)
Doug White
documented (complete with borescope photos) in various articles in
'Precision Shooting' magazine. There are a number of good non-ammonia
bore cleaners on the market, Pro-Shot and Shooter's Choice (not sure
about their copper solvent) come to mind. Ammonia based cleaners may be
faster (Sweet's is supposed to be particularly good with heavy fouling),
but I'm not going to risk my Krieger barrel on the stuff. Fortunately, I
spent a lot of time breaking in my barrel (fire lapping, Accu-bore) and
it's very easy to clean.
Doug White
James T. Bober
# bore cleaners the ones with ammonia are the only ones that
# will get out copper fouling, as opposed to powder/copper/powder
# etc. fouling which a powder solvent may remove, so if one
# leaves the copper fouling in the barrel, thus covering up
# the stress cracks, pits, etc. that may form anyway (I was
# taught that leaving copper in the barrel promotes pitting),
# how does one know if the ammonia is causing the problem or
# merely uncovering it ?
#
# John Ongtooguk (jo...@vcd.hp.com)
1) Fundamentally, depositing and leaving copper in a steel barrel is to
assemble two-thirds of an electrochemical cell, which if completed will
cause corrosion of the barrel. Completing the cell is today predicated on
the random presence or absence of a suitable electrolyte. In the WWI era,
Hatcher and Whelen noted that moisture combined with the residue from
corrosive primers then in use consistently made a wonderful electrolyte,
which caused the rapid pitting of a copper fouled barrel. Today the
presence of an electrolyte may be due to more subtle things such as
ambient moisture contaminated by trace amounts of conductive salts or acid
residue. It's a lot harder to track down, because the main culprits -
perchlorate primers - have been eliminated in modern ammunition and the
rate of the electrochemical process depends on the nature of these traces.
To better understand this issue of corrosion due to contact of two
dissimilar metals, take a look at a commercial product very much in vogue
today, in which the exact same principle applies. The product I'm
speaking of is that "magical metal plate", which when used with the "magic
solution", will remove tarnish from silverware. What happens in this case
is that a tarnished silver article (the tarnish is an insoluble silver
salt, silver sulfide) when brought into electrical contact with an
aluminum plate, IN THE PRESENCE OF AN ELECTROLYTE (baking soda-sodium
bicarbonate, washing soda-sodium carbonate, or table salt-sodium chloride)
will form a completed electrochemical cell in which the aluminum is the
anode and the tarnished silver is the cathode. The cell will procede to
revert the silver salt into metallic silver and the aluminum will
"corrode" to the corresponding salt (aluminum sulfate). In the jargon of
electrochemistry, the aluminum is the "sacrificial anode".
Another example dates back to a time when submarines were made of steel
alloy and propellers made of brass. These makings of an electrochemical
cell, completed by the sea water electrolyte, caused rapid corrosion of
the steel. By electrically connecting a more electropositive metal than
steel to the hull, this corrosion was virtually eliminated. This was the
famous "sacrificial" zinc anode.
2) Ammonia (NH3) is nasty stuff. In chemistry, it is called a
"nucleophilic" reagent, because (due to its nitrogen lone pair) it likes
to go out and initiate "displacement reactions" in which it kicks out
parts of molecules and takes their places. Look around in nature and see
just how popular it is to find ammonia combined with other things.
Chemistry involving ammonia is ONE way to attack copper. But not the only
way! There is evidence that strong solutions of ammonia cause stress
cracking in steel alloys if exposed for "excessive" periods of time,
although the reasons for this are not well understood. Certainly, I know
of benchrest gunsmiths who have experimented with home brew copper
solvents containing 28-30% ammonia (like "blue goop") and have noticed the
cracking problem after excessive exposure. (Caution: The vapor from
strong ammonia solutions like this can quickly cause cataracts if not used
in a well-ventillated area!) Apparently the problem is much less severe
if the ammonia content is held to 5% or less (like Sweets 7.62) and the
steel is not exposed for extended periods.
Interesting thread...
Jim
J.T. Bober & Co., Inc.
Warrenton, VA
Good humor
It is correct that ammonia based cleaners are necessary for removal of
metal to metal copper fouling normally associated with high
velocity/pressure or soft alloy jacketed bullets. The smoothness of the
barrel machining and total surface area also play a factor in how badly a
barrel will become fouled.
Copper in and of itself may oxidize while in the barrel, but will not
"pit" or create any kind of direct chemical reaction with the barrel
steel.
Pitting is the result of rust (barrel steel oxidation) or other chemical
reactions with moisture hydroscoped (or absorbed) from the surrounding
environment (e.g. atmospheric humidity). The use of ammonia based
solvents may result in metal etching of the barrel steel at the same time
the ammonia is reacting directly with the copper. If the anhydrous (water
reactive, but dry) ammonia crystals (microscopic) left in the barrel after
cleaning are not insulated (e.g. covered with oil) from the ambiant
atmospheric moisture, they may hydroscope resulting in metal etching while
the firearm is stored.
The drawback with most oils is that there are evaporants which may reduce
the effectiveness of the oil insulating the ammonia crystals. MP-7(tm)
Gun Cleaner will neutralize and remove these crystals.
Just two men's opinion.
Marten Niner Kelly Moulton
Windfalls Distributing, Inc Technical Advisor - MP-7 Gun
Cleaner
Kevin & Cheryl Pinkerton
#Interesting thread...
#
#Jim
#J.T. Bober & Co., Inc.
#Warrenton, VA
#
Jim, it is a pleasure to hear your comments as well as the fine
comments from Marten aka Good humor. I appreciate good information and
both of you seem to be well informed. It's one thing to post opinions
and that is what most of us do, but to back up your opinions with at
least what appears to be accurate information gives the rest of us
something to work. Bore cleaners certainly are a wide open field.
Both of you have perked my interest and I believe I am going to have
to try some of Marten's company's product. I also use Sweets, Barnes
and Shooters choice as well as Ed's Red, Hoppes, Outers Foul Out II
and whatever else I think might help.
Jim, when your company finally comes up with a bore cleaner (as I
assume is something you are working on from your comments) I would be
very interested in trying it.
Thanks again.
Kevin
Howard D. Hendler
while I find the chemistry discussion interesting, I'd like to clarify a couple of
simple things:
1. Is Hoppe's No. 9 ammonia-based? There is no indication on the bottle.
2. If it is, how should I use it on my SIG 228?. The directions have me running a
patch through the barrel after it's clean and leaving it there. But what about the
ammonia pitting discussion? Should I instead clean out the Hoppe's and run some
regular gun oil through the barrel?
3. What if I want to keep the gun loaded for home protection? How does that
change what I do with the barrel after I clean my gun?
Any input is *very* much appreciated, as this is my first semi-auto and I want it
to last forever.
Please reply to the group or to h...@icu.com
Thanks...
Howard
Douglas Juhola
: 2) Ammonia (NH3) is nasty stuff. In chemistry, it is called a
: "nucleophilic" reagent, because (due to its nitrogen lone pair) it likes
: to go out and initiate "displacement reactions" in which it kicks out
: parts of molecules and takes their places. Look around in nature and see
: just how popular it is to find ammonia combined with other things.
: Chemistry involving ammonia is ONE way to attack copper. But not the only
: way! There is evidence that strong solutions of ammonia cause stress
: cracking in steel alloys if exposed for "excessive" periods of time,
: although the reasons for this are not well understood. Certainly, I know
: of benchrest gunsmiths who have experimented with home brew copper
: solvents containing 28-30% ammonia (like "blue goop") and have noticed the
: cracking problem after excessive exposure. (Caution: The vapor from
: strong ammonia solutions like this can quickly cause cataracts if not used
: in a well-ventillated area!) Apparently the problem is much less severe
: if the ammonia content is held to 5% or less (like Sweets 7.62) and the
: steel is not exposed for extended periods.
I was discussing this point with a friend today. He mentioned *HIS*
idea of copper removal. My friend will first pass a 28% solution of
Ammonia into a degreased bore, and follow it up with a patch soaked
with Hydrogen Peroxide. He will then quickly remove the solution
with Hoppes #9 (or whatever). He will repeat the process as needed
until no copper is present.
Since this method is so aggressive, i was wondering about pitting and
microcracks in this case. Any opinions out there?????
Herbert E. Jones
I have used Hoppes #9 for years and let the barrels soak for 3 hours to remove copper as well as powder residue. I have never gotten pitting in a .264 Win.
Model 70 with stainless barrel and I have cleaned it this way for 20 plus years. I don't know if the #9 has ammonia (spelling) in it, however its what I use
and it works with no problems.
Does anyone know what the GI bore solvent was made of in the mid to late
40's????
Thats my two cents worth, hey if it works, don't fix it!!!!!
EJ
--
Stephen Swartz
**** SNIP ****
#environment (e.g. atmospheric humidity). The use of ammonia based
#solvents may result in metal etching of the barrel steel at the same time
#the ammonia is reacting directly with the copper. If the anhydrous (water
#reactive, but dry) ammonia crystals (microscopic) left in the barrel after
#cleaning are not insulated (e.g. covered with oil) from the ambiant
#atmospheric moisture, they may hydroscope resulting in metal etching while
#the firearm is stored.
#
Guys:
I'm having a difficult time trying to track this ammonia-steel thing
down. Do you have any articles, books, etc. references for this?
Currently, following the directions on Hoppes requires leaving the barrel
wet with solvent overnight . . . is that the same thing as what you are
saying above???
This is an important topic!
***********************************************************************
* =8^) - The Anti-Federalists were right, after all! (Oops!) *
* Steve - "If the Bill of Rights were observed faithfully, the *
* Swartz 2d amendment wouldn't be needed; if the 2d was *
* observed, the Bill of Rights wouldn't be needed." *
* NRA Life - "Government does not grant rights to men; men yield *
* AFA Life their rights to government." *
***********************************************************************
Doug White
"Howard D. Hendler" <h...@icu.com> wrote:
<I've been following this and other Copper Solvent/Hoppes/pitting, etc.
threads and
<while I find the chemistry discussion interesting, I'd like to clarify a
couple of
<simple things:
<
<1. Is Hoppe's No. 9 ammonia-based? There is no indication on the
bottle.
I don't think Hoppe's #9 (the standard stuff, not their copper
solvent) has a significant amount of ammonia in it. After gassing myself
with ammonia in a chem lab years ago, I'm fairly sensitive to the stuff,
and I've never had even a hint of ammonia when using it. I think Hoppe's
was originally designed for lead bullets, and may never have been
formulated to dissolve copper. The original formula for #9 had
nitro-benzine in it, but this has been removed as being a carcinogen. If
you are concerned about copper fouling and ammonia, there are several
good products that work without ammonia, regular Shooter's Choice (not
their copper solvent) works fine for me.
<2. If it is, how should I use it on my SIG 228?. The directions have
me running a
<patch through the barrel after it's clean and leaving it there. But
what about the
<ammonia pitting discussion? Should I instead clean out the Hoppe's and
run some
<regular gun oil through the barrel?
I use Hoppe's to remove fouling, and then always finish up with Breakfree
CLP. If I'm going to use it any time soon, I'll run a dry patch thru the
bore.
<3. What if I want to keep the gun loaded for home protection? How does
that
<change what I do with the barrel after I clean my gun?
Unless you live near the ocean, or store your gun in the open, a _clean_
bore shouldn't corrode even after dry-patching. if you keep it in a
cabinet or case, you could use a desicant just to be sure.
<Any input is *very* much appreciated, as this is my first semi-auto and
I want it
<to last forever.
I wouldn't get too paranoid about all the copper fouling/stress
cracking/ammonia stuff, particularly for a handgun. Most of this is of
much more concern for centerfire rifle shooters, where copper fouling is
a serious problem.
Doug White
James T. Bober
Juhola) wrote:
# I was discussing this point with a friend today. He mentioned *HIS*
# idea of copper removal. My friend will first pass a 28% solution of
# Ammonia into a degreased bore, and follow it up with a patch soaked
# with Hydrogen Peroxide. He will then quickly remove the solution
# with Hoppes #9 (or whatever). He will repeat the process as needed
# until no copper is present.
#
# Since this method is so aggressive, i was wondering about pitting and
# microcracks in this case. Any opinions out there?????
This used to be a widely known method among old benchrest guys. They
would mix 28% ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH) with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2),
AND WORK QUICKLY. I don't know any of them who mess with it any more,
because of the microcracking problem. I suppose the advent of good
high-magnification bore scopes gave them a better look at what they were
doing to their bores over time. [I don't condone this method but, just as
an aside, the solution will work much more quickly if ammonium chloride is
added as a buffering agent and a trace of copper salt (like copper
sulfate) is introduced into the NH4OH/H2O2 mixture before use. I won't
get into the reasons here. Also, the solution should be mixed fresh
before using, as the H2O2 decomposes over time under the high pH.] I'll
remind everyone that 28% NH4OH is NOT USER FRIENDLY: it's highly corrosive
to tissue and the ammonia gas that is released in such concentration can
quickly cause blindness if used in poorly ventillated areas. Ask anyone
who's worked in a dye house before the era of the EPA, or read the MSDS
(material safety data sheet) for this chemical.
I'll refer interested readers to Uhlig's text, "The Corrosion Handbook",
for the effects of ammonia on steel.
Jim
Good humor
threads and
<while I find the chemistry discussion interesting, I'd like to clarify a
couple of
<simple things:
<1. Is Hoppe's No. 9 ammonia-based? There is no indication on the
bottle.
Hoppe's No. 9 is kerosene based I believe. We have been talking about
copper removers, some of which contain ammonia. No 9. does not have
ammonia.
<2. If it is, how should I use it on my SIG 228?. The directions have me
running a
<patch through the barrel after it's clean and leaving it there. But what
about the
<ammonia pitting discussion? Should I instead clean out the Hoppe's and
run <some
<regular gun oil through the barrel?
People have been using Hoppes for a bajillion years. (I used it for many,
many years before I joined MP-7). Just follow the directions and you will
be fine. It is just not the most effective cleaner that is out there.
<3. What if I want to keep the gun loaded for home protection? How does
that
<change what I do with the barrel after I clean my gun?
You can leave Hoppes in the barrel or run some oil down the bore. If you
live in a humid environment, just check it every month or so to make sure
there is no rust.
<Any input is *very* much appreciated, as this is my first semi-auto and I
want it
<to last forever.
<Please reply to the group or to h...@icu.com
<Thanks...
<Howard
I hope this helped.
Marten Niner
MP-7(tm) Gun Cleaner
1(800) YES-4MP-7
"I work for the company, cause I believe in the product."
James T. Bober
# I've been following this and other Copper Solvent/Hoppes/pitting, etc.
threads and
# while I find the chemistry discussion interesting, I'd like to clarify a
couple of
# simple things:
#
# 1. Is Hoppe's No. 9 ammonia-based? There is no indication on the bottle.
Original Hoppes #9 is a "nitro solvent" and contains no ammonia to the
best of my knowledge. If I remember correctly, it *may* contain amyl
acetate in a kerosene-based solution; the amyl acetate may be what gives
it that hint of bannana odor and assists in dissolving carbon fouling.
Hatcher analyzed Hoppes #9 and estimated its composition in his famous
Notebook. From a chemistry standpoint, the acetone in homebrew Ed's Red
(also derived from Hatcher's writings) should have a similar effect on the
residue from burnt nitrocellulose, and Ed's Red is a lot cheaper. IMHO,
it's better, too. Precision shooter Boyd Mace (in "The Accurate Varmint
Rifle") uses Hoppes #9 to clean off his tools, if that's any indicator.
Hoppes "Benchrest" is their copper solvent and, based on its smell,
*probably* does contain ammonium hydroxide (aqueous ammonia) and/or
ammonium salts in a petroleum solvent base. It also gives the telltale
blue copper tetraammine color to a cleaning patch.
#
# 2. If it is, how should I use it on my SIG 228?. The directions have
me running a
# patch through the barrel after it's clean and leaving it there. But
what about the
# ammonia pitting discussion? Should I instead clean out the Hoppe's and
run some
# regular gun oil through the barrel?
I have a SIG 220 among other fine firearms. No matter what I do, I
personally prefer to finish the cleaning process with a clean dry patch,
followed by a light oiling with a quality gun oil using another clean
patch. Other opinions may vary, but the barrel of the SIG still has its
original mirror finish to it after many thousands of rounds. If you
wanted to argue that the ATF in Ed's Red is good enough to leave behind as
the final anti-corrosive/lubricant, I wouldn't put up much of a fight.
But I would still argue for running a clean dry patch through before the
final lubricating step to be really sure that all unwanted residue is
gone.
#
# 3. What if I want to keep the gun loaded for home protection? How does that
# change what I do with the barrel after I clean my gun?
No difference. Just avoid over-oiling the barrel in any case - target
shooting or home defense, for the first shot or two with an over-oiled
barrel will usually be a flyer. If I have a gun sitting around unused for
a long time, I like to pick it up once in a while, run a dry patch through
the barrel (and cylinders if a revolver) and relube.
Jim
Stephen Swartz
#
**** SNIP excellent discussion of galvanic corrosion ****
#way! There is evidence that strong solutions of ammonia cause stress
#cracking in steel alloys if exposed for "excessive" periods of time,
Jim:
I'm really interested in trying to nail this thing down. Do you have
any recommendations for where I could find the articles, books, test
results, etc. for the evidence that ammonia exposure leads to either
stress cracking, corrosion, or pitting?
ltl919
#
# < Without trying to be funny....it's my understanding that among
# < bore cleaners the ones with ammonia are the only ones that
# < will get out copper fouling, as opposed to powder/copper/powder
# the ammonia is reacting directly with the copper. If the anhydrous (water
# reactive, but dry) ammonia crystals (microscopic) left in the barrel after
# cleaning are not insulated (e.g. covered with oil) from the ambiant
# Marten Niner Kelly Moulton
# Windfalls Distributing, Inc Technical Advisor - MP-7 Gun
# Cleaner
Could you please elaborate on what the "ammonia crystals" you mention are?
I always though ammonia was a gas. Common household ammonia is ammonia
gas dissolved in water (ammonium hydroxide). Perhaps you mean some sort
of ammonium compounds?
Glen McDowell
#
# In article <4jt61n$5...@fcnews.fc.hp.com>, juh...@hpfcla.fc.hp.com (Douglas
# Juhola) wrote:
# # I was discussing this point with a friend today. He mentioned *HIS*
# # idea of copper removal. My friend will first pass a 28% solution of
# # Ammonia into a degreased bore, and follow it up with a patch soaked
# # with Hydrogen Peroxide. He will then quickly remove the solution
# # with Hoppes #9 (or whatever). He will repeat the process as needed
# # until no copper is present.
# #
# # Since this method is so aggressive, i was wondering about pitting and
#
#
# I'll refer interested readers to Uhlig's text, "The Corrosion Handbook",
# for the effects of ammonia on steel.
#
# Jim
For those who don't have access to Uhlig's tome, here is a direct quote
from Section II., Iron and Steel, Alkalies (page 135, 4th Edition):
"Ammonium hydroxide is satisfactorily contained in iron or steel. The
corrosion rates at room temperature are stated to be 0.0001 ipy (inches
per year) or less for concentrations ranging from 5 to 100% by volume
of the commercial concentrated hydroxide."
It would appear that overnight is just not going to cause much of a
problem. Shall we let this thread R.I.P., por favor?
Glen
Douglas Juhola
: This used to be a widely known method among old benchrest guys. They
: would mix 28% ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH) with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2),
: AND WORK QUICKLY. I don't know any of them who mess with it any more,
: because of the microcracking problem. I suppose the advent of good
: high-magnification bore scopes gave them a better look at what they were
: doing to their bores over time. [I don't condone this method but, just as
: an aside, the solution will work much more quickly if ammonium chloride is
: added as a buffering agent and a trace of copper salt (like copper
: sulfate) is introduced into the NH4OH/H2O2 mixture before use. I won't
: get into the reasons here. Also, the solution should be mixed fresh
: before using, as the H2O2 decomposes over time under the high pH.] I'll
: remind everyone that 28% NH4OH is NOT USER FRIENDLY: it's highly corrosive
: to tissue and the ammonia gas that is released in such concentration can
: quickly cause blindness if used in poorly ventillated areas. Ask anyone
: who's worked in a dye house before the era of the EPA, or read the MSDS
: (material safety data sheet) for this chemical.
: I'll refer interested readers to Uhlig's text, "The Corrosion Handbook",
: for the effects of ammonia on steel.
: Jim
Thanks Jim! This (and your prev. post) are exactly the reason i
surf rec.guns. great stuff!
dj
P.s. 5% NH4OH is strong enough for me, thank you. (gotta see to shoot!)
James T. Bober
(Stephen Swartz) wrote:
# Jim:
#
# I'm really interested in trying to nail this thing down. Do you have
# any recommendations for where I could find the articles, books, test
# results, etc. for the evidence that ammonia exposure leads to either
# stress cracking, corrosion, or pitting?
#
# This is an important topic!
1. Go to the library, and pick up a copy of "The Corrosion Handbook" by
Uhlig. There you'll find plenty of discussion on the general subject of
stress cracking, including lots of test results and pictures. There are
even jigs shown to put controlled stresses on test samples if you're
inclined to experiment yourself. Really the issue is one that primarily
concerns certain *stainless* steels. Also, keep in mind that the term
"ammonia" is used rather loosely among shooters. Ammonia in the literal
sense is a gas, NH3. It dissolves to some degree (28-30% max at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure) in water to give ammonium hydroxide,
NH4OH. Most texts on corrosion present evidence which implies that the
real culprit is the ammonium cation, NH4(+), in aqueous solution. Since
ammonium hydroxide is a weak base, there is only a moderate tendency for
it to dissociate into NH4(+) and OH(-). Certain ammonium salts, however,
are more completely dissociated in water and are found to be significantly
more corrosive. Most notable, according to Uhlig, is a strong solution of
ammonium nitrate, NH4NO3.
2. One might ask: Why not avoid the more corrosive ammonium salts? For
chemistry reasons that I won't waste bandwidth on here, it is attractive
to buffer ammonium hydroxide with ammonium salts when dissolving copper
fouling with this method. As an example, Hatcher's Notebook describes a
potent copper solvent called "ammonia dope", made with 28% ammonium
hydroxide and ammonium persulfate. Hatcher also notes the solutions'
propensity to corrode barrels, particularly at interfaces between the
solution and the atmosphere. Hence, he only used it after insisting on
filling the bore beyond each end by means of tightly fitting rubber hoses
over the outside of the barrel, keeping the solution in for only a short
time, and thoroughly removing traces of the solution afterwards.
3. Precision Shooting magazine had an article on this subject a while
back, but I don't have the reference. Maybe drop in and talk to a custom
riflesmith in your area for additional insights. But be prepared to get
mixed opinions on this subject, because stress cracking as the term
implies is a function of the level of stress in the material - either
intrinsic or applied - as well as on the cyclic nature of applied
stresses, the grain structure of the material, how the material was
machined, chemical composition and concentration of the solvent, and
temperature. I may be on the conservative side of the issue, but the fact
that Clay Spencer once pointed it out to me with a good borescope in a
custom Lilja barrel repeatedly cleaned with the powerful "blue goop" is
enough to make me think. On a more temperate note, Clay DOES run Sweets
7.62 on patches through his rifles.
Jim
Brad Holt
"Ammonia and ammoniacal solutions generally do not present difficult
corrosion problems. In manufacture and handling, steel and cast
iron are satisfactory except for high temperatures, where types 430
and 304 stainless steels are required. Aluminum is often adopted in
refrigeration systems and storage tanks. The major warning is not
to use copper and copper-based alloys because even traces of
ammonia can cause stress corrosion."
---------------------------------------------------------
"Chemical Engineering Handbook", Perry and Chilton.
Aqueous Ammonia on Steel:
T <100 F, corrosion rate <0.002 inches per year in all concentrations
T >100 F, corrosion rate <0.02 inches per year, concentrations under 40%
(Note: Corrosion rates of less than 0.02 inches per year
are usually considered low)
On the other hand:
Ammonia Chloride on Steel:
Corrosions rates exceed 0.05 inches per year at low concentrations
and temperatures (Moral, don't have Chloride ions around when
using Ammonia).
Brad