Brake cleaner OK to use?
Terry Reid
and have really gotten to like it. Unfortunately I don't like the cost
all that much.
I remember reading that some gunowners use some sort of auto parts
cleaner in cleaning their guns. Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use
it? I noticed the other day in the auto parts store that it is a
fraction of the cost of the stuff by Tetra (and others) so this could
be a valuable alternative.
Any help would be much appreciated.
TIA
Terry
------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can learn about rec.guns at http://doubletap.cs.umd.edu/rec.guns
rb...@fuse.net
#. Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use
#it? I noticed the other day in the auto parts store that it is a
#fraction of the cost of the stuff by Tetra (and others) so this could
#be a valuable alternative.
Yep, thats the stuff. I have a couple of cases of it that I bought
at an auto parts swap meet several years ago. Buy it in quantity,
and on sale. Other alternatives are Quick Start (ether), and Carb
cleaner (lots of nasty stuff). Since all the formulas are different,
you won't get predictable results, except that it really cleans. I
hope you're using a high quality gun - it might remove the finish
on a cheapo. Take the grips off first too. It will definately
remove any wood finish. It also flushes out any oil you might
have had. You need to use something like CLP or Remoil
afterwards. I don't generally like aerosols because they tend
to cool the surface and attract moisture. Since you're using
it in the solvent step, just make sure you protect the bare
metal. Some Carb cleaners will eat plastic. Wear glasses.
When you shoot it into a closed place it tends to squirt back
at your face (just like the Gun scrubber). When I buy a new
(new to me)) gun, I normally clean it before I shoot it. I try
to flatter myself and think that is the best cleaning the gun
has ever gotten or will ever get. Thats why I use those
chemicals. Hot soapy water doesn't hurt either. The final
rinse with really hot water forces all the moisture to evaporate.
Then the oil can do its thing.
Dick Burg
newsmkr1
carburetor cleaner on my guns to flush out crud. Some time ago it occured to
me the stuff consisted essentially of the same chemicals as the so-called
and much more expensive special gun sprays. I asked G & A about this and
while they editorially danced all around the subject, they agreed it did the
same job.
Some words of caution which you probably already know: NEVER use the stuff
indoors, NEVER near wood, and I tend to keep it away from plastic
parts...just in case. Remember also it removes everything from the surface
to make sure to oil the gun later. Other than that, the cleaner works just
fine on my 1911's and other autoloaders. Good luck.
================================================
Terry Reid <Re...@prontomail.com> ... I've been using Tetra's action blaster
as part of my cleaning regimen and have really gotten to like it.
Unfortunately I don't like the cost all that much.
# I remember reading that some gunowners use some sort of auto parts
cleaner in cleaning their guns. Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use it?
Frank Logullo
trying.
Haven't pinned down a source of lanolin yet. Any comments? Came from Uncle
Al - Ed's Red.
Frank
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS
#8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
1 lb. Anhydrous lanolin/gallon for additional anti-corrosion and
lubricating properties.
Add the ATF first. Use its empty container to measure the other
components. If adding lanolin, melt in a doubleboiler, add, stir
until it dissolves.
Jay Hoth
gun specific cleaners and have used brake cleaner for the past couple years.
Besides, you would be surprised how close it is in relation to many of the
other high dollar cleaners available. Just as with any cleaner use caution
around your finished stock and/or forearm.
Happy cleaning.
Bill Smith
> ...
Any of those high end (in terms of volubility) solvents remove ALL the
oils, as well as dirt, from your firearm, leaving it vulnerable to
corrosion and wear. If you immediately re lubricate everything (not
too much, of course), you'll be okay. On metals they won't cause harm,
but some will destroy certain kinds of plastics, beware!
I sprayed some contact cleaner on a piece of polycarbonate tubing
once and, just sitting there, it shattered into a million pieces all
by itself.
Bill Smith
Spener
What ever you do, don't use brake cleaner! The solvents will draw out
all lubrication from the metal eventually making it brittle (could
result in catastrophic failure of the metal).
If you can't clean your weapon by the proper cloth and solvent method
then be prepared to pay what ever it costs. A quality weapon should
last a lifetime if properly cared for, that means cleaning and
lubrication. If you can not clean the weapon properly, be prepared to
pay extra for shortcuts.
> ...
Leslie Lyons
tetra-ethelene or chlorathane).
Mark Yaworski
#I've been using Tetra's action blaster as part of my cleaning regimen
#and have really gotten to like it. Unfortunately I don't like the cost
#all that much.
#
#I remember reading that some gunowners use some sort of auto parts
#cleaner in cleaning their guns. Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use
#it? I noticed the other day in the auto parts store that it is a
#fraction of the cost of the stuff by Tetra (and others) so this could
#be a valuable alternative.
I've used CRC Brake-Cleen for years without a problem.
Shawn C. Robak
# I remember reading that some gunowners use some sort of auto parts
# cleaner in cleaning their guns. Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use
# it?
I use BRAKLEEN brand brake cleaner on both stainless and blued guns. No
problems. Cleans it like nothing else will, thats for sure - and leaves the gun
DRY after it evaporates. You will need to oil in places you have long forgotten
about :)
Carb & Choke Cleaner works in a pinch, as does wd-40
---
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All opinions and comments in this message are my own, and are not on behalf of
any or all of Indiana University in any way.
Support Search and Rescue - Get Lost!
----------------------------------------------------
Shawn C. Robak sro...@indiana.edu
Indiana University Alumni Association
Network Analyst http://www.alumni.indiana.edu
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dr4d
loose parts. Worked very well for the bore.
BPF
--
"Terry Reid" <Re...@prontomail.com> wrote in message
news:9eg963$l4i$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
> ...
arn_werks
Brake cleaner will work well on guns, but you do have to lube
afterward since it is a right aggressive cleaner. Carb cleaner
is way too much and while some folks use it, I would not. Be
sure to use it either outdoors or in a well vented room and I
mean WELL vented, because it can hurt you and your lungs and
kidneys and liver. Just like the new medicines on TV.
It can harm some finishes and plastics, at least potentially, so
be careful. I do not mean to scare you, just to wan you that it
works but use sensible care.
Cordially,
Red
Terry Reid wrote:
> ...
Alex Clayton
>wrote:
I've been using Tetra's action blaster as part of my cleaning regimen
and have really gotten to like it. Unfortunately I don't like the cost
all that much.
I remember reading that some gunowners use some sort of auto parts
cleaner in cleaning their guns. Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use
it? I noticed the other day in the auto parts store that it is a
fraction of the cost of the stuff by Tetra (and others) so this could be
a valuable alternative.
Any help would be much appreciated.
TIA
Terry
I have been using "Brake Parts Cleaner" for years. It works great with a
couple "cautions".
1 There is an environmentaly friendly version out that is water based.
It does not work very well and is a pain, so read the ingredients first.
2 It strips ALL grease and oil, so you have to be careful about re
oiling after.
3 Be careful what you get it on. It dissolves some plastics, it can play
hell with some wood finishes and painted on gun finishes. I use it on
Polymer frame (Ruger) with no problem.
J. Freeman
Just make sure you check the label and it doesn't say it has water in it.
The ones with water in them leave a residue and evaporate very slowly.
The last couple of cans I bought were Prestone brand.
Mortimer Schnerd
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Reid" <Re...@prontomail.com>
Newsgroups: rec.guns
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 8:07 AM
Subject: Brake cleaner OK to use?
# I remember reading that some gunowners use some sort of auto parts
# cleaner in cleaning their guns. Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use
# it?
I use it all the time.... just keep it off your wood. It'll clean crap out like there's no tomorrow.
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
msch...@carolina.rr.com.nospam
http://home.carolina.rr.com/mortimerschnerd
John R.
Remember to remove all plastic parts first. It won't cut the thick
stuff all the time, but not many sprays will. Remember, brake cleaner
removes all oils from the surface, so oil carefully afterwards.
Terry Reid wrote:
> ...
Ron Seiden
# and have really gotten to like it. Unfortunately I don't like the cost
# all that much.
Aerosol brake cleaner is better, and you can also use aerosol carb cleaner.
If you look at the ingredients, they're very much like the gun scrubber type
stuff. Just remember to re-oil quickly, as the metal will be totally dry &
open to the air.
tm...@bellsouth.net
> ...
That's the first time I ever that, Then why would someone use brake
cleaner on all the brake parts in a auto?, after 20+years of being a
mechanic myself and using the stuff on tons of parts I have never seen
a part of any type of metal break, Rust quickly yes - very quickly.
Ben Magista
I'd suggest putting it in some hot water before mixing it in, that stuff is
thick!
KCOM
Re...@prontomail.com (Terry Reid) wrote:
#I've been using Tetra's action blaster as part of my cleaning regimen
#and have really gotten to like it. Unfortunately I don't like the cost
#all that much.
#
#cleaner in cleaning their guns. Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use
#it? I noticed the other day in the auto parts store that it is a
#fraction of the cost of the stuff by Tetra (and others) so this could
#be a valuable alternative.
#
#Any help would be much appreciated.
#
#TIA
#
#Terry
#
#---------------------------------------
When degreasing the bore to clean it with my Outers Foul Out III unit, I
always use BraKleen brake cleaner instead of the "made for firearms" degreasers.
Works better too.
Steve
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Karl Juul
"Spener" <gsc...@aol.com
# What ever you do, don't use brake cleaner! The solvents will draw out
# all lubrication from the metal eventually making it brittle (could
# result in catastrophic failure of the metal).
What an absurd statement that is.
Sure, solvents remove lubrication, but the rest is fantasy.
Karl
Norman Johnson
#all lubrication from the metal eventually making it brittle (could
#result in catastrophic failure of the metal).
I often wonder where this kind of pure horse puckey gets started. Metal
embrittlement has nothing to do with the amount of, or lack of, lubricant.
I have used both brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner to clean my guns for at
least 30 years. The only difference I can see is that some carburetor
cleaners
leave a film, perhaps a lubricant, while the brake cleaners do not. When I
get
really serious about cleaning, I buy a quart or two of engine cleaner (Gunk is
one) and soak the action after removing grips and optics. Flushing with
boiling water or mineral spirits, carries away all the goo and leaves the gun
nice and dry. I apply oil only at bearing points unless I am going to be out
in the field. My guns are much used and most look nearly new.
God Bless!
Norm
thumper
you. I got mine ordered thru Wal-Mart Pharmacy, took only two days to
get it.
Frank Logullo wrote:
#
# Don't know about brake cleaner but here's a recipe I've been thinking about
# trying.
# Haven't pinned down a source of lanolin yet. Any comments? Came from Uncle
--
"And so castles made of sand fall into the sea...eventually."
Larry Caldwell
writes:
# I use which ever brand of brake parts cleaner that is on sale at Wal-mart.
# Just make sure you check the label and it doesn't say it has water in it.
# The ones with water in them leave a residue and evaporate very slowly.
# The last couple of cans I bought were Prestone brand.
Water is death to a brake system. I can't imagine any mechanic using
brake cleaner with water in it.
--
You don't have much to say about the length
of your life, but you have a lot to say
about the breadth and depth.
arn_werks
Brake Cleaner, or almost any good oils solvent will clean any
and all petroleum based materials from the surface of any gun or
anything made of metal or other base material that the solvent
will not disolve out right. I know a fair amount about metals
and I do not think that you need worry about metal embrittlement
from cleaning. Automotive brake drums and disks are normally
made of a good grade of cast iron that has been soaked at red
heat for days after casting to make it into malleable iron,
which is very close to a very high carbon steel in behavior. It
is not harmed by the brake cleaner and neither should any gun
metal.
The solvent that you are using on the cloth will clean all the
old lubricant from the metal, just as will a spray cleaner.
No dis-respect, but I think that you really do not have to worry
about metal embrittlement from most solvents. There are some
solvent that could cause problems, but you will not find them in
the average store but only in exotic laboratories.
Cordially,
Red
Larry Caldwell
# Brake cleaner works great! I too got tired of paying the high prices of the
# gun specific cleaners and have used brake cleaner for the past couple years.
# Besides, you would be surprised how close it is in relation to many of the
# other high dollar cleaners available. Just as with any cleaner use caution
# around your finished stock and/or forearm.
Just remember that brake cleaner is alcohol based, including methanol in
many brands. If you breathe the stuff you risk permanent nerve damage
and blindness.
--
You don't have much to say about the length
of your life, but you have a lot to say
about the breadth and depth.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
arn_werks
This is purely personal opinion, but the brake cleaner will get
gunk off and then the Ed's Red mix will put the need lubricants
and protective materials back where they need to be.
Cordially,
Red
Frank Logullo wrote:
> ...
arn_werks
You are a nice guy and have always been a straight arrow type so
just for my own peace of mind, Please Understand That Starter
Fluid Is Mostly Ether and will make a nice fire ball. It will
clean things off, but static sparks or almost anything 'COULD'
set it off.
Sorry to be so dramatic, but the stuff is made to burn even
better than gasoline. A story that I have always enjoyed is one
about the Old Time finishes on Colts. It has been years, but if
there is any secret to getting a good bluing finish, it is to
get the metal super clean. Colt used boiling gasoline (No idea
about high test or regular, maybe high test for expensive guns)
and it is a super cleaner and the cleaning line burned to the
ground every so often. Most of the folks now use boiling
Tri-Sodium-Phosphate, nice cheap and very good, but it will eat
aluminum.
Your description of your process for cleaning new guns is a
beauty. I have found small metal shavings inside new guns and
in the bolt recesses in rifle actions and your advice is really
good. That's why I do not want you to Flambeau your self with
ether. It really is one of the few things that scares me in
common use.
Cordially,
Red
Don
Brake Cleaner does a wonderful job. You must, however, use the
non-water-based cleaner. It does remove ALL the oil, so you will need to
re-lubricate afterwards.
The best I've found for lubricating and rust inhibiting, is BoreCote
www.borecote.com . It keeps your gun from rusting and is COMPLETELY DRY.
DG
"Terry Reid" <Re...@prontomail.com> wrote in message
news:9eg963$l4i$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
Terry Reid
# ...Is brake cleaner OK - does anyone use it?
#
Thanks very much to all who responded. This was pretty much what I'd
hoped to hear.
I've used the brake cleaner now, and in the same way I've been using
Action Blaster - not as a replacement for cleaning, but as an adjunct
to it. What I mean is that I blast parts between steps of cleaning to
carry away crud that I've scrubbed out with CLP or solvent, and then
re-lube.
I *am* however, concerned about the "plastics" caveats. While I
wouldn't get the stuff on removable plastic grips (e.g. my Sig and
1911) there's no way around contacting the polymer frames of my Glock
and HK USP.
Am I making a serious mistake here?
thanks,
Terry
Tom & Marge
Gentle on the electronics in the framing and trim nailers. You know what I
mean if you have any connection to construction.
tom
Terry Reid wrote:
> ...
Dick Burg
wrote:
#Dick:
#You are a nice guy and have always been a straight arrow type so
#just for my own peace of mind, Please Understand That Starter
#Fluid Is Mostly Ether
# It really is one of the few things that scares me in
#common use.
Of course you are right about its properties. I've once heard it
said that its only a little more explosive than Nitroglycern.....
That said, When the other solvents fail, I always keep a can
on hand and try it too. Sometimes there is grit that only the
very strongest things will move. Acetone is another bad
substance that has uses. Just not the womens stuff with
lanolin for nails. Your cautions are all well taken, and should
be repeated to those who don't exercise due care. Rule 1
is don't smoke or have any electric motors anywhere near
you.
Dick Burg
DanH
# I've used the brake cleaner now, and in the same way I've been using
# Action Blaster - not as a replacement for cleaning, but as an adjunct
# to it. What I mean is that I blast parts between steps of cleaning to
# carry away crud that I've scrubbed out with CLP or solvent, and then
# re-lube.
#
# I *am* however, concerned about the "plastics" caveats. While I
# wouldn't get the stuff on removable plastic grips (e.g. my Sig and
# 1911) there's no way around contacting the polymer frames of my Glock
# and HK USP.
I've had Glocks for over 10 years. I've used brake cleaner, carb
cleaner, and darn near every thing that comes in a spray can from a gun
store and an autoparts store.
If Glock's were going to do anything untowards by using brake cleaner, I
would have already melted mine to slag. There are no soft spots, melted
looking places or anything else.
Don't use oven cleaner, other than that, don't worry about it.
DanH
--
Air Cav Reference Board
http://www.cavalrypilot.com
UNIX - Not just for vestal virgins anymore
M T Reese
my firearms. I discovered that it didn't do nearly as well as most of the
other gun cleaning sprays or brake cleaner. It just wasn't nearly as
aggressive. It also costs a bit more. Remember that the petroleum gas
burns much cleaner than any solid powder, so cleaning doesn't have to be
nearly as aggressive.
"Tom & Marge" <jor...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3B0F1763...@earthlink.net...
fl...@alaska.net
#Just remember that brake cleaner is alcohol based, including methanol in
#many brands. If you breathe the stuff you risk permanent nerve damage
#and blindness.
Actually, the two brands I have in the shop list toluene as the
primary ingredient....along with methanol and petroleum distillates.
Toluene is a potent carcinogen. Use gloves and a resperator in a
well-ventilated area!
Jay T
fl...@alaska.net
#Water is death to a brake system. I can't imagine any mechanic using
#brake cleaner with water in it.
Spray brake cleaners are normally used on areas of the brake system
commonly exposed to water when driving. What happened the last itme
you drove through a puddle? It isn't surprising to me that spray
cleaners might have water in them.
Jay T
John M Price PhD
: On 26 May 2001 08:37:06 -0400, arn_werks <arn_...@mindspring.com>
: wrote:
: #Dick:
: #You are a nice guy and have always been a straight arrow type so
: #just for my own peace of mind, Please Understand That Starter
: #Fluid Is Mostly Ether
: # It really is one of the few things that scares me in
: #common use.
: Of course you are right about its properties. I've once heard it
: said that its only a little more explosive than Nitroglycern.....
: That said, When the other solvents fail, I always keep a can
Regarding ether, specifically diethyl ether, this is a pretty heavy
molecule, and will sink in the atmosphere. It can literally flow as
well. Back in chemistry, when using the stuff for alkaloid extraction
(which also involves heat from Bunsen burners, it was stressed as to its
potential to literally flow across the bench as fumes, and catch fire.
Now when it does catch fire, its flames, still being hot, are nearly
invisible. One must watch for that especially lest they leave the area
with it literally on fire.
Of course being young at that time and experimentally inclined, this did
not stop me from moving a bit to my house for an ether party ....
--
John M. Price, PhD jmp...@calweb.com
Life: Chemistry, but with feeling! | PGP Key on request or FTP!
Email responses to my Usenet articles will be posted at my discretion.
Comoderator: sci.psychology.psychotherapy.moderated Atheist# 683
The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed (and
hence clamorous to be led to safety) by menacing it with an endless
series of hobgoblins, all of them imaginary.
- H. L. Mencken
n_cr...@pacbell.net
#
# It has been years, but if
# there is any secret to getting a good bluing finish, it is to
# get the metal super clean. Colt used boiling gasoline
If memory serves me right, plating shops used to use a boiling sodium
cyanide solution in an extremely well ventilated area, then rub with fuming
nitric acid, all of which I'm sure OSHA has now outlawed and which I
definitely do not recommend.
--
Nick, Retired in the San Fernando Valley www.boonchoo.com
"Giving violent criminals a government guarantee that their intended
victims are defenseless is bad public policy."
- John Ross, "Unintended Consequences"
arn_werks
The cyanide that you are talking about has several uses. The
main thing is to keep it all away from acids lest you get the
deadly cyanide gas, as used in gas chambers.
It is used in plating as a very good nonferrous metal cleaner
and it is disolved in water and kept basic. To be safe,
anything cleaned in a boiling solution should be dipped or
rinsed in a basic solution. Fuming nitric acid in combination
with cyanide in any form would turn loose of a lot of hydrogen
cyanide gas and kill or seriously injure anyone who breathed the
gas. Fuming nitric acid has its own habit of harming anything
with lungs, because the red fumes combine with water in the
lungs to produce a tin coating of nitric acid in the lungs.
Very deangerous. The origin of the Big Fooking Red Clouds (BFRC)
that came from fuel dumps on the Minute Man ICBM when they had
to hold a launch at Cape Carnival when I was working on the
Atlantic Missile Range.
The cyanide is normally sold as eggs about the size and shape of
small chicken eggs. If you put it in a nice cast iron pot and
take it up to about 1,600 to 2,000 degrees (I do not remember
the exact temp), it is fine surface hardening material for steel
and acts very like a case hardening process by producing a
surface layer of carbides and nitrides. The look is a sort of
silver gray and it is really wear resistant.
Cordially,
Red
n_cr...@pacbell.net wrote:
> ...
Gale
skeet range, and have 37 guns that are rented out. Every 5 or 6 months;or
when they need it, I take the wood off. Then I spray the hell out of
them. All the gunk comes right off. Then make sure you relube the metal,
all the metal. The brake cleaner strips off everything!!!! But it will not
clean the metal fouling out of the barrel. Observe all safety rules when
using the cleaner!!! Have fun cleaning your guns and it's cheap.
Joe
Terry Reid wrote:
> ...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
You can learn about rec.guns at http://doubletap.cs.umd.edu/rec.guns
Shoot the best, forget the rest. Win a Fulton Armory AR-15 Tactical
Carbine while rec.guns shows our strength supporting the RKBA.
Click on www.direct-action.org
David Rackley
#
# Terry; I have been using brake cleaner for over 10 years now. I run a
# skeet range, and have 37 guns that are rented out. Every 5 or 6 months;or
# when they need it, I take the wood off. Then I spray the hell out of
# them. All the gunk comes right off. Then make sure you relube the metal,
# all the metal. The brake cleaner strips off everything!!!! But it will not
# clean the metal fouling out of the barrel. Observe all safety rules when
# using the cleaner!!! Have fun cleaning your guns and it's cheap.
# Joe
# Terry Reid wrote:
Take note that sometimes these cleaners may contain chemicals that may
may leave a whitish film behind on your blued metal. I would recommend
you test any unknown brand first somewhere where it won't be noticed
like the inside of a slide. The whitish film can be hidden by a bit of
oil though.
Also wear protective gloves if you use these cleaners often. Chemicals
like the trichlorials can be absorbed through the skin. Use in
ventilated areas or your head will be spinning for sure!
Dave
Dick Burg
wrote:
#Take note that sometimes these cleaners may contain chemicals that may
#may leave a whitish film behind on your blued metal. I would recommend
#you test any unknown brand first
Its even worse than that. Brands sometimes change their
formula. From one production lot to another, you may not
be getting the same stuff. This isn't food grade stuff, its
only designed to remove oil and grease and evaporate.
I buy mine at auto parts swap meets. No idea what I'm
getting, but when its cheap enough, I buy a case of it.
Thats usually abut $10 for 12. And before I buy, I make
the seller show me that it still sprays.
Dick Burg
Romeyclone
parts. A long time a go when I was young and stupid (as opposed to now
just being stupid), I cleaned my Emerson/Benchmade tanto with
brakekleen, and the grips began to melt. Waste of a 125 dollar knife.
By that time, Benchmade stopped making that model, and the Emerson
grips were different. PROCEED WITH CAUTION!!
clone
behind the lines
occupied socal
"Where do I stand in this form of power, where do I fit with this
government? I have no choice!" -TSOL "World War III"
Wallace Berry
<TGAL...@GW.FORD.COM> wrote:
# Which brand do you use? In my neck of the woods, I see approximately 14
# different brands. Some are No name type products, some are high end,
# and some are even listed as synthetic.
#
# Gale wrote:
Watch out for some brands that have water in them. Most of the cheaper
brands are all solvent, but I have seen some of the more expensive
types now contain lots of water. Hmm, might actually be better for
cleanup after shooting corrosive stuff.
Joseph Lovell
# I cleaned my Emerson/Benchmade tanto with
# brakekleen, and the grips began to melt. Waste of a 125 dollar knife.
Or you could mount it on a nice 7 foot hardwood staff an have a
naginata.
(sorry, this should have gone with my other reply)
Joseph
Joseph Lovell
# I cleaned my Emerson/Benchmade tanto with
# brakekleen, and the grips began to melt. Waste of a 125 dollar knife.
#
So this gave you the opportunity to try your hand at making a new hilt
for it. What did you use? Stag horn? Sharkskin over hardwood and
wrapped with flat silk cord? Maybe some nicely tooled brass?
Joseph
William Gray
expensive.
I once mixed up a batch of military bore cleaner using ammonia, kerosene,
and
alcohol. It removed 100% of the bluing from my M-41 aluminum frame. Seems
that ammonia and aluminum don't get along. The military formula dates back
to
WWII and before when they only had steel guns.
Since then I haven't tried any shortcuts.
Steve Gray
Tampa, FL
Joseph Lovell <sub...@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:9kjb0u$jtt$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
# Romeyclone wrote:
# # I cleaned my Emerson/Benchmade tanto with
Red Bell
Brake cleaner is about at the extreme edge of the normal class of
cleaners that I would use on a handgun and then I would dip it in a good
grade of thin oil or transmission fluid to get oil back into all of the
places that the brake cleaner cleaned out. Normally, it works fine on
almost all kinds of gunk and may hurt some plastics and paint, but
otherwise, it is fine.
Cordially,
Red
William Gray wrote:
> ...
Dan Z
wrote:
#William:
#Brake cleaner is about at the extreme edge of the normal class of
#cleaners that I would use on a handgun and then I would dip it in a good
#grade of thin oil or transmission fluid to get oil back into all of the
#places that the brake cleaner cleaned out. Normally, it works fine on
#almost all kinds of gunk and may hurt some plastics and paint, but
#otherwise, it is fine.
I've used brake cleaner on a variety of firearms, including "tupperware"
frames, with no problems. Do avoid the "environmentally friendly"
product however -- it doesn't work as well and leaves a white residue
behind.
I lube the gun with a coating of "Ed's Red," (a thin cleaner/lubricant
containing the transmission fluid mentioned above) or a spraying of
Rem-Oil, a light oil containing teflon. The Ed's Red goes on the
load-bearing and heat-receiving areas, while the Rem-Oil goes primarily
on the trigger, hammer, sear and mag-catch components.
Our IPSC guns have received this treatment for several years (over
20,000 rounds each), and show almost no signs of wear.
__
COA is running a PRO-gun advertising campaign,
and YOU can get involved!
http://www.CitizensOfAmerica.org
Dan Z
wrote:
#William:
#Brake cleaner is about at the extreme edge of the normal class of
#cleaners that I would use on a handgun and then I would dip it in a good
#grade of thin oil or transmission fluid to get oil back into all of the
#places that the brake cleaner cleaned out. Normally, it works fine on
#almost all kinds of gunk and may hurt some plastics and paint, but
#otherwise, it is fine.
I've used brake cleaner on a variety of firearms, including "tupperware"
frames, with no problems. Do avoid the "environmentally friendly"
product however -- it doesn't work as well and leaves a white residue
behind.
I lube the gun with a coating of "Ed's Red," (a thin cleaner/lubricant
containing the transmission fluid mentioned above) or a spraying of
Rem-Oil, a light oil containing teflon. The Ed's Red goes on the
load-bearing and heat-receiving areas, while the Rem-Oil goes primarily
on the trigger, hammer, sear and mag-catch components.
Our IPSC guns have received this treatment for several years (over
20,000 rounds each), and show almost no signs of wear.
__
COA is running a PRO-gun advertising campaign,
and YOU can get involved!
http://www.CitizensOfAmerica.org
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Barry H. Adams
guns. It has not harmed wood or plastic furniture and does not leave the
weapon as dry as brake cleaner does.
"Dan Z" <dan...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:9r2iup$7b4$1...@xring.cs.umd.edu...
> ...
R.M.R.
#I once mixed up a batch of military bore cleaner using ammonia,
kerosene, and
alcohol. It removed 100% of the bluing from my M-41 aluminum frame.
Seems that ammonia and aluminum don't get along. The military formula
dates back to WWII and before when they only had steel guns. Since then
I haven't tried any shortcuts.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Geez sounds like something I would do.I would of liked to been a fly on
the wall to see the expression on your face.If by some slim chance
you still have that gun,or any other for that matter and want a good
quality blueing or plating job try Accurate Plating and Weaponry
http://www.apwcogan.com
in Safety Harbor.I been out there and they do excellent work,Also with
Bob Cogan doing the smith work you can't ask for more and their
local....
Ray,
(Si vis pacem,
para bellum) U.S.A.
Darrell Kimbrough
2000), it started to melt my Santoprene grips. Be careful with the carb
cleaners.
Nothing says comfort like a .357 Magnum!
Adam Barker
with Carb Cleaner. I was slightly ticked at myself.... It went from the
standard blue/black grip to a bland brushed aluminum color.
Adam