Is your soil clay or sandy? Where do you live? Do you know your zone?
~Bethany
SAM TIPPY wrote in message
<10906-39...@storefull-222.iap.bryant.webtv.net>...
There are lots of books about lawncare which will give you more detailed
information. But, in the meantime . . .
Fertilize appropriately. When and how much depends where you live and what
type of grass you have. There are significant differences between southern
lawn grasses and northern grasses. Your neighbors might know (if your grass is
the same as theirs). Or check with you local agricultural agent (who will also
likely have informational brochures for you). Your local nursery/plant store
will likely have fertilizers and some basic recommendations suitable for your
area.
Overseed with a good blend of grass seed either spring or fall. You will
likely need to do some prepping before you spread the seed . . . vigorously
raking to remove thatch; or aerating the soil; or cultivating the bear spots so
the seed has a decent chance to take root.
Mow often enough so that no more than 1/3rd of the grass is clipped at each
mowing. You'll typically have to mow more often in spring and fall.
Water infrequently but deeply. Long watering (in the absence of adequate rain
. . . about 1 inch per week) allows the water to soak deeply into the soil.
Grass roots can reach it but typical weeds cannot. Frequent, shallow watering
encourages weed growth.
John Moore
So much depends on where you live and what kind of grass you have.
Common problems include cutting wrong (most often too short) fertilizing
wrong (too little too much wrong time of year etc) poor watering practices
and more.
Let us know where you live and if you know, what kind of grass you have
and we will try to offer some advice. Also if you observe any specific
problems with your lawn or if it is brand new let us know about that as
well.
--
Joe M
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish math
SAM TIPPY wrote:
>
> frist time here I hope someone can help me what do I do to get a thick
> lawn thank's for your help
A lush greensward is a long-term project. Start with proper soil
preparation. This means you need an 8-12" base of slightly alkaline,
well draining, rich soil, free of rocks and construction debris. If you
don't have that right now, you can create it over time by spreading an
inch of compost in early spring and early fall every year. Overseed in
early spring. Keep the lawn well-watered. That's an inch of water per
week. You should not water more often than twice a week; deep watering
leads to deep roots. Use milky spore to control grubs. Keep the lawn
cut at not less than 2" and not more than 3". During the height of the
growing season, this may mean mowing every other day. Make sure that
your mower blades are sharp, and use a mulching mower. In fall, spread
an inch of composted manure. Keep people off of the lawn; grass dies
from lots of walking-on. And, stay away from synthetic fertilizers,
herbicides, and pesticides; they work in the short run, but, long-term,
they cause all sorts of stress. Weed by hand.
Chris Owens
[snip]
> Common problems include cutting wrong (most often too short)
fertilizing
>wrong (too little too much wrong time of year etc) poor watering practices
>and more.
I hate having to mow my lawn high just to keep it green. What are some
types of grass that can be kept real short? I have a feeling that such a
lawn is expensive and high maintainence. Will the local golf course share
their expertise with me?
-gk-
> > Common problems include cutting wrong (most often too short)
> >fertilizing
> >wrong (too little too much wrong time of year etc) poor watering practices
> >and more.
>
> I hate having to mow my lawn high just to keep it green. What are some
> types of grass that can be kept real short? I have a feeling that such a
> lawn is expensive and high maintainence. Will the local golf course share
> their expertise with me?
The local golf course spends $1000's each year on one heck of a lot of
chemicals and maintenance. For a low maintenance lawn, don't water. I only
water 1/3 of the total area of my lawn....just the front and the near area
of the back (close to the house).
-Paul
What grass does best really depends greatly on where you are. Some
parts of the country have weather that will allow you to use a grass that
loves to be short. Most of the country(US and Canada) however has weather
that calls for grass that likes to be about 2 1/2 - 3 inches tall. Cutting
it any other way hurts it and helps weeds.
>> ? I have a feeling that such a lawn is expensive and high maintenance.
Will the local golf course share their expertise with me? <<
You don't even want to think about the cost and labor to do what a golf
course does. It is no secrete, you just don't see it in most DIY books
because it is beyond most people to do things like test the soil once a
week, walk the lawn every day to check for problems and work on the that
day, not tomorrow.
gkamm wrote:
>
> I hate having to mow my lawn high just to keep it green. What are some
> types of grass that can be kept real short? I have a feeling that such a
> lawn is expensive and high maintainence. Will the local golf course share
> their expertise with me?
They will certainly be willing to tell you what kind of grass they use
on their greens. Plan on a truly labor-intensive effort, though; that's
why we just grow clover.
>
> -gk-
Hmmmm. I'd like to put in some clover, but doesn't that
make it sort of dangerous to walk around? (Bees?)
Jean B.