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Pruning Large Palms
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mtuk100
Mar 12, 2012, 4:50:01 PM3/12/12
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I have two very large palms (Cordyline australis, the Cabbage Palm) at
front and rear of my house. They are around 15 feet high and blocking
light to my house and potentially causing subsidence. Can they be
pruned back to half their size (would require removal of all foliage)
without killing them or do they need to be removed? Thanks. Martin
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mtuk100
David E. Ross
Mar 12, 2012, 10:12:54 PM3/12/12
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plants (agaves) and yuccas. The cabbage palm is Sabal palmetto.
Cutting a true palm will usually kill it. It will not produce new
shoots from the old trunk.
Cutting a cordyline will often cause it to produce new shoots. However,
I generally take the top, remove most of the lower leaves, and then root
it as a cutting. I then discard the base.
It would be best to have your plant carefully identified before cutting
it.
I'm not sure why any plant would cause subsidence. Some trees cause
heaving by their surface roots, but that is the opposite of subsidence.
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David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
<http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html>
Gardening diary at <http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary>
lannerman
Mar 12, 2012, 8:00:41 PM3/12/12
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I'd cut them off about 3ft above the ground (through the trunk) with a
view to making them shoot again from the base (they dont normally shoot
again from the trunk but very occasionally they do). Once these new
shoots are about 2 ft tall, I'd thin them out to just 3 per plant, then
you will end up with 3 trunks. If you leave all the shoots that emerge
at the base, you will end up with a very dense bush ! One final thing,it
may take a while for these new basal shoots to emerge, so dont panic if
they take a while.
Doing the above, is exactly the same as if the cold winter has
killed the trunk, they will normally come again from the base as
described above.
Cordylines have a mass if fibreous roots (along with often a tap
root) so its unlikely that they will damage your house, unless they are
extremely close.
best wishes, Lannerman.
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lannerman
allen73
Mar 13, 2012, 4:56:32 AM3/13/12
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pruning is required. Just remove dead leaves and spent flowers. The
response to hard renovation pruning is usually good but best undertaken
in mid-spring. Cut back to side-shoots, basal shoots or to ground level.
After pruning, encourage new growth by an application of balanced
fertilizer in spring.
Create multi-stemmed plants by removing the growing point before growth
begins in spring. Remove dieback or winter damage just above a new
side-shoot, or cut back to a sound point on the trunk (below rot and
damage).
Remove only brown and yellow fronds (leaves) of Cabbage palm using a
pole trimmer. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Prune the stems away from
the truck. Do not remove green fronds. Remove any flowers, seeds or
berries from the tree so energy will be conserved for tolerating any
green leaf loss during pruning. Pull away loose boots around the trunk
by hand. Do not attempt to cut old trunk boots off with a saw because
the trunk can be damaged easily. Use well cleaned and sterilized tools
to avoid introducing disease when pruning. Use mulch around the trunk
base to cut down on weeds and eliminate the the need for weed eaters
which can damage the tree. Save old fronds to add to compost or brush
piles. Never cut the top off a palm tree because it will not recover.
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allen73
echinosum
Mar 13, 2012, 11:11:42 AM3/13/12
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mtuk100;953192 Wrote:
> I have two very large palms (Cordyline australis, the Cabbage Palm) at
> front and rear of my house. They are around 15 feet high and blocking
> light to my house and potentially causing subsidence.
size simply because they get higher. Rather, the crown of the plant
mainly gets further away from the ground without getting very much
bigger - well it does get a bit bigger but nothing like on the same
scale as typical trees. Remembering that it is leaves rather than wood
that places the main demand on the metabolism in the roots, we realise
that the metabolic load the roots need to service for a Cordyline of a
given height in comparison to typical native tree is much, much smaller.
So they need much smaller root systems than those native trees. So
they aren't going to present any subsidence risk. True palms are
similar. I've planted a Chusan palm (Trachycarpus fortunei) - which
incidentally is rather more cold tolerant even than a Cordyline - right
next to my house and I'm not bothered.
You are actually quite lucky still to have a full-height Cordyline.
Most people had theirs involuntarily cut back to ground-level during
winters 2009-11.
Cordylines do sometimes resprout from the trunk rather than from ground
level. I have seen damaged cordylines with large numbers of new shoots
at various levels up the trunks. Typically, though, many will abort,
unless you are fairly quick about rubbing out the ones you don't want
and encouraging the ones you do want. I think these new trunk shoots are
more likely to happen if you just remove the growing tip, rather than
make a major shortening of the trunk. So a possible strategy is to cut
out the growing tip, retaining plenty of leaves, and see if you get any
new shoots part way down the trunk. You could then rub out the shoots
you don't want, and later, once the favoured shoots are well
established, cut off the trunk off just above the shoots you wish to
keep.
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echinosum
mtuk100
Mar 13, 2012, 2:04:56 PM3/13/12
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Many thanks for the advice. Just to double check that I have the right
palm species, I have attached photos. Can you confirm? Thanks. Martin
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mtuk100
David E. Ross
Mar 13, 2012, 5:36:45 PM3/13/12
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Note that a cabbage palm (Sabal palmetto) has divided leaves in a
fan-like arrangement. See <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabal_palmetto>.
A cordyline is sometimes known as a "cabbage tree", not a "cabbage
palm". It has simple leaves. See
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cordyline_australis>.
lannerman
Mar 13, 2012, 5:42:03 PM3/13/12
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mtuk100;953271 Wrote:
> Many thanks for the advice. Just to double check that I have the right
> palm species, I have attached photos. Can you confirm? Thanks. Martin
I can see your problem ! I think i'd be inclined to cut it right down
and start again from the base. Its a new one on me that you can root the
tops as a cutting ????
If it were mine, I'd remove it completely and replace it with a dwarf
fan palm (Chamaerops humilis) which would be more in keeping with your
available space, its fully hardy (infact much hardier than Cordyline)
Another option might be to grow a red Cordyline in a tub (which would
have a slight dwarfing effect) and would not ultimately get as big.
regards Lannerman.
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lannerman
echinosum
Mar 14, 2012, 7:33:41 AM3/14/12
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mtuk100;953271 Wrote:
> Many thanks for the advice. Just to double check that I have the right
> palm species, I have attached photos. Can you confirm? Thanks. Martin
vandalism to shorten them. Can't you move them somewhere else, where
you might be able to appreciate them as they are? As previously noted,
they don't have huge root balls, and can be moved, if you keep enough of
the root ball.
You'll just arrive there again if you shorten them. If you like that Dr
Seuss look, but not the height, why not grow something of roughly
similar appearance, but with less height, such as a some hardy yuccas,
or furcreaea, or astelia. Or, as lannerman suggests, one of the red
Cordylines that are much more slow growing, in a tub or not. Though the
red ones are more prone to cold damage.
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echinosum
lannerman
Mar 14, 2012, 6:53:11 PM3/14/12
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mtuk100;953271 Wrote:
> Many thanks for the advice. Just to double check that I have the right
> palm species, I have attached photos. Can you confirm? Thanks. Martin
mtuk100
Mar 19, 2012, 5:40:53 PM3/19/12
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I wish it were! It's actually in beautiful Hanwell, West London
Martin
lannerman;953351 Wrote:
> Hi again Martin, could this be a terrace in Devoran ??
> Lannerman.
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