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Hose protector on driveway?

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Carol Cohen

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Mar 15, 2002, 1:36:17 PM3/15/02
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Is there a strong metal guard I can buy, so that q hose can be left down
across the driveway? The garden on the far side (50 ft. long by 10 ft.
deep) needs soaker hoses and a water timer for the summer, when I'll be away
a week or two at a time. But neighbors use this asphalt driveway too. So I
need to protect my hose with a drive-over guard. Is there such a device?

C.C.

ecologicals

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Mar 15, 2002, 3:42:28 PM3/15/02
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At one point, I used a piece of 3/4" PVC tubing which was cheap and also
kinda ugly.
What you want is angle iron, a piece of V shaped metal. Heavy, strong and
also ugly notably after it begins to rust. Or lumber, a corner molding would
look better, is lighter and should do the job. Homey Depotz.

:)

--
John H. Immink
ecolog...@shaw.ca
http://www.ecologicalsgardens.com/
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"Carol Cohen" <carol...@raines.com> wrote in message
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Carol Cohen

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Mar 15, 2002, 4:17:01 PM3/15/02
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Thanks for the tips! But pickup trucks -- heavy -- have to cross this and
not crush the protector, much less the hose. If I use angle iron, won't
that sharp outside angle be bad for the tires? Also, how can I anchor it on
the driveway?

BTW I just did some lycos searches, tried "hose shield", "construction
supplies", came up with nothing. Then, inspiration: "speed bump." Bingo!
Several companies make a recycled rubber bump. But only one makes it with
hollow channels to accommodate a hose or cable, and only 6 ft. wide (I need
a wider one) And at $190 each, I sure don't want to buy two to make 12 ft.

Besides, doesn't the channel have to be large enough to feed the hose end
(always larger than the hose) through? Were you able to drive your car or
truck over the hose shield at more than 10 mph?

C.C.

Profundus

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Mar 16, 2002, 8:21:10 AM3/16/02
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Are you worried about constant water pressure or the hose? Pickups will not
damage a good quality rubber hose. The water will be cut off while the hose
is flattened, but the hose will not suffer.

If you're truly obsessed, try a piece of steel pipe to replace the length of
hose crossing the driveway.

"Carol Cohen" <carol...@raines.com> wrote in message

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Dwight Sipler

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Mar 18, 2002, 7:55:13 AM3/18/02
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When I had this problem, I got a chisel and broke a line across the
driveway about 2" wide, enough for a trowel. I then removed some of the
gravel underneath and laid down a piece of 1" polyethylene tubing (about
$18/100 ft from Home Depot). I then filled the hole again and patched
the asphalt with a bag of asphalt patch (around $5). I buried the
polyethylene tubing about 2" in the lawn up to the water source and over
to the garden that needed water and put a male hose coupling on both
ends (about $3 each including adaptors and clamps). At the house end, a
section of washing machine hose ($4) couples the tubing to the water
from the house. I generally try to drain the tubing in the winter, but
it's not essential. The polyethylene tubing will take the stress of
water freezing in it. However, metal or plastic couplings and valves
won't.

The 2" wide trench won't be a problem to drive over if one of your
neighbors comes along while you're working.

sam crowe

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Mar 18, 2002, 8:08:25 AM3/18/02
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If you have sandy soil you can do this:

Dig down a foot or so on each side of the driveway,0n the inlet side taper
the hole out 3-4 feet, attach a water hose to the end of a 3/4" PVC pipe,
(shed 40) using a glue on adapter, turn on the water and WASH the pipe
under, keep pushing the pipe in as the water washs out the soil , making
sure you align the pipe level and side ways before starting. Once you reach
the other side, just cut off the adapter and add what ever connections you
need. I have used this method several times even a double wide drive and
under a motel that was built on a cement slab. If your soil is pure clay
this will not work, if partly clay you can heat and squeeze down the end of
the pipe to form a make shift nozzle, this helps to add a bit of pressure to
the water.
Good Luck

--
Sam
Coastal SC
What we know is far less than what we don't know
"Dwight Sipler" <dsi...@haystack.mit.edu> wrote in message
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