Lavender questions...

[Adam Schwartz]

I have a nu,ber of concerns about my lavender plant that I was hoping
this group could help me with. The first is that my lavender does not stand
up. In all the pictures I have seen of lavender, the plnt grows
more-or-less upwards in curving branches with vertical flower stalks.
However, all season long mine has been lying mostly flat, with its branches
radiating outward and only slightly upward. It is growing well and
flowering well. It gets plenty of water, and the stalks and branches are
turgid and strong. I'll stake it if I have to, but I'd rather figure out
whats wrong with it and fix it rather than just forcing it to stand up.
My other question involves caring for the lavender over the winter. I
believe it is of either hydcote or munstead variety. I am in zone five,
whicg is the coldest zone the lavender is rated for. I know that being in a
pot should help, sice it the soild shouldn't get to wet and freeze over.
However, in theory the soil in the pot will be colder since it won't benefit
from geothermal heat. Normally I would cover my less hardy potted
perennials for the winter, but I believe lavender is an evergreen. What
then should I fdo to increase it's chances for a succesfull overwintering?

Thanks,
Adam
Iowa city, zone 5

P.S. Pardon the typos, I'm not yet accustomed to my new keyboard.

[Chris Novak]

I have had several lavenders growing in the ground in zone 5 for several
years. Both Hidcote & Munstead. There is a light bark mulch but that's
all the winter protection here. South facing bed.
Regarding floppy branches, it is probably growing vigorously. Close
pruning in late winter/early spring, probably Feb/Mar in z.5 will
encourage straighter growing branches. Check out information on lavender
pruning, timing depends on when you spot new growth starting on branches
so you know what's alive.

[Phisherman]

If your lavender is radiating outward in all directions, it may be a
good time to cut it back without cutting the thicker woody parts of
the plant. It will look a bunch of dead twigs, but soon new growth
will appear. I keep my lavender on the dry side--it lives well
without rain for 2-3 weeks. In the winter, your plant will do well in
full sun, but I'd protect it in temps under 10 degrees. Do not
fertilize lavender.

[~ Lori ~]

Do not
fertilize lavender.
>>>

Ummm........whoops. Could this be why nearly an entire flat of lavender
plants bit the big one at my house this year? Why can't you fertilize them?
(For future reference when I replace the plants I murdered)....
Lori

[Phisherman]

With a few exceptions, herbs are better left unwatered and
unfertilized. They just grow better when you apply a little neglect.
For well-established plants, you can top-dress with a layer of compost
that will supply all the nutrients they need. If you don't have any
compost, there are a few organic fertilizers you can apply--although
very sparingly in the beginning of the growing season.

On Tue, 10 Sep 2002 01:04:36 GMT, "~ Lori ~" <ljad...@comcast.net>
wrote:

[~ Lori ~]

The reason lavender dies is over watering. Most people over water it to
death.
I never water mine and I live in Texas where it is HOT. Gwen Barclay and
Madelaine Hill, co-authors to Southern Herb Gardens said that lavender of
all
forms really appreciates a mulch of white rock, be it limestone or other.
The
sun radiates upward under the foliage. I tried that one year, watered
virtually
never and I have great upright plants.>>>

Well, there's mistake #2. I watered the hell outta them too. Hahaha. Oh
well, now I know better for next time. ;o)
Lori

[Carolyn Jean Fairman]

animaux <ani...@09435gjpd.org> wrote:
>I did the same thing when I first planted lavender many years ago.
>Plants from the Mediterranean like hot, rocky, dry soils. That's why
>most Mediterranean plants do very well here in the Texas Hill
>Country. We have a very similar climate and soil structure/texture.
>
>V

Saved by rec.gardens! I just put in some lavendar and, well, I have
been watering it since it was a transplant and all. I'll stop
(barring exceptionally hot weather). I also put in two Cistus
(rockroses) which are also Mediterranean so they get the same
treatment.

The Savias I put in (mostly gregii) seem to respond well to some
infrequent deep watering, since I put them in at the start of August.
Once the winter rains start I won't worry if it's dry for a while in
between. My hope was not to water, certainly, but I was really
coddling things right now. The lavendars are indeed droopy at the
moment, so I'm so pleased to have checked out this thread.

--Carolyn

--
Carolyn Fairman
http://www.stanford.edu/~cfairman/

[Kurgan666]

I think you might be overwatering. I have 3-4 lavenders growing in my
parking strip (or right-of-way) that are doing great. They have gone
all spring and summer with full sun and minimal water, and I mean
minimal. (Oregon has had an incredibly dry spring and summer - and the
dry season (fall) is yet to come!). I've watered them maybe 2-3 times
this summer. Try easing up on the TLC, give them plenty of sun and
warmth, they should perk up.

Chris

"Adam Schwartz" <swor...@NOSPAMmchsi.com> wrote in message news:<GA2f9.364065$me6.41786@sccrnsc01>...

[txbelle]

I read this thread with great interest as I will be transplanting some
lavender in the spring, so thanks for all the information! Now, would
ornamental sage fall under the same kind of care that the lavender should
receive? I transplanted a 1.5' x 1' plant into my rock garden in July and
at first it looked lovely and put out some beautiful little pinkish blooms.
Now it looks 'ick' and I have been watering about every 3 days. I'm in zone
8b in Texas.

txbelle

"Adam Schwartz" <swor...@NOSPAMmchsi.com> wrote in message
news:GA2f9.364065$me6.41786@sccrnsc01...

[Phisherman]

The young lavender transplants, unlike the well-established lavender,
will benefit from careful watering. My young lavender was watered
twice a week for the first year, then maybe once a week if there was
no rain. When it rains for 3-4 days straight, the full-grown
lavender plant definately resents it. Gradually cut back your
watering practices over a period of several months, then do not water
at all. Your larger plants will flourish.

On 10 Sep 2002 17:34:23 GMT, cfai...@Stanford.EDU (Carolyn Jean

[Carolyn Jean Fairman]

animaux <ani...@09435gjpd.org> wrote:
>It depends on what type of sage. They are all ornamental, even
>common garden sage has magnificent flowers. If you have Salvia
>greggii, which is what it sounds like, you can cut it back by a third
>and shape it. It will perk up as we head into fall and winter. Mine
>bloom all year round and I have about 6 varieties including the
>species. For the one you are watering every three days, WAY too
>much.
>
>V

Though when initially transplanted in summer months, frequent watering
can make a big difference. My Salvia greggii perked up and grew a lot
while I was watering them every few days. Now once a week they still
get a soaking, just to be sure. My Mexican sage is a little droopy
but it was the only one where I sprang for a large plant so it has
more leaf/roots and wants more water until established.

I know that every other week soaking will prolong the blooming season
during the summer/fall but after that I would think it best not to
water except in rare cases (and then, only the first year).

What varieties do you have? I want to put more in that have different
flowers/leaf types. I have some gregii cultivars like Furman's red
and Lipstick plus S.coccinea which has totally different leaves and
similar flower shape. S.leucantha is completely different with the
fuzzy purple flowers. The edible sage goes in the herb bed though so
I don't usually compare them (I got the tricolor S.officinalis because
it looks so cool).