I've heard of many people, especially "country folk" with big lawns, who say
they thicken up their lawns just by mowing weeds down real short and
throwing grass seed onto the soil. Does this work? When I've thrown grass
seed on regular hard soil, hardly any of it takes root.
Anyone have tricks for planting grass seed EASILY, so it takes root? What if
we watered down the soil real good till it was muddy, threw some grass seed
on, then raked it into the ground? Would this work? Any tips would be
appreciated!!!
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Look at a typical 10'x10' area of your lawn. Are the weeds covering all the
soil, or what percentage of it?
"Dave K." <da...@REMOVEcompanynewsletters.com> wrote in message
news:10gl96g...@corp.supernews.com...
You could core aerate the lawn and then seed it. You could use a slit
seeder. Of course, both options involve renting equipment. I am afraid
that there is no effortless way to do a good job.
In the middle of summer-until fall, i regularly mowed that area like i did
the rest of the lawn. Every 2 weeks (or so) i applied 'weed and feed' in
that area. I stopped the fertilizing in September (6th)- but mowed the area
every week.
At the time of 'leaves falling'- (October 6th) -I mean in the thick of FALL-
I mowed that area with the lowest setting on the lawnmower. I threw seeds
and strew some straw over the area. By winter time, I saw the lawn sprung
up. I never mowed that area. Come Spring 2004- it was essentially lawn
with 10% weeds. I sprayed some round up on the 'dandelions'. Now it is 97%
grass.
I think that is easy
I was told aerating does not help seeding. In fact- it is not advised to
seed after aeration.
MK
"Vox Humana" <vhu...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jHxOc.86580$fv....@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
To get any sort of satisfactory results, you are going to have to exert some
time and effort. If your soil is hard and compacted, you WILL need to
aerate, despite other posts to the contrary. You may very well get the seeds
to germinate successfully without aeration, but if the soil is compacted,
the roots will never be able to penetrate deeply and the new grass will die
out rapidly. To test if aeration is needed, use a longbladed screwdriver and
insert it into different areas of your lawn. If it goes in easily, you can
skip the aerating step but if you really have to force it in, your soil is
compacted and will need this step.
Here is the sequence for overseeding:
* Remove as many of the large weeds as possible.
* Mow on short setting and remove all clippings.
* Dethatch and aerate, if necessary (requires equipment rental or a lot of
elbow grease). Make sure you use a core aerator.
* Spread a thin layer (1/4-1/2") of screened compost over the area and
overseed. A handheld, rotary seeder will work fine.
* Apply a starter fertilizer and top with a very thin layer (1/4") of
compost.
Keep moist until seed germinates.
*Avoid mowing until new grass is 2" tall.
Timing is critical on overseeding. Fall is generally the recommended season
(other than spring), but check with your local extension office for their
recommendation. The prep work (weeding, dethatching and aerating) can be
done in advance of the seeding, but make sure the existing grass has been
mowed short before seeding to allow as much oxygen and light as possible to
reach the new seeds.
If this sounds like too much work, then I agree with Phisherman - hire it
done. It really is countertproductive and a waste of time and money to
attempt to short cut this process.
pam - gardengal
"Dave K." <da...@REMOVEcompanynewsletters.com> wrote in message
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