How to prune Weeping Flowering Cherry Trres....and when
The Dog Guy
New Jersey. They are only a few years old and just coming into bloom
now. Trunks are about 3-4 inch diameter.
How do I prune these things so that they look decent? And when should
I prune them? Most of the years growth goes to making longer branches
which grow downward and touch the soil. I pruned the ends of the
branches last fall, and they branched outward a little since then, but
continue to want to touch the ground. I am a little reluctant to trim
the outward growth of branches now as the are in bloom; most branches
have secondary and tertiary branches on their distal ends and the
branches would look empty if I were to trim these off.
Sould I selectively trim the branches that are growing horizontally or
downward and leave the ones that are growing upward? Or will this look
too artificial and trim all equally. The central trunk hasn't grown
much... will it?
Can I expect the trunk to get taller or will most of the trees growth
be in its branches?
One of the trees has a couple of branches that grow straight upward
from the central trunk. Should I cut this down (it looks out of place
with all the downsweeping branches) or should I train it so it grows
more like the others?
Sorry about all the questions, but these weeping trees don't seem to
follow the rules of pruning more normal trees
Thanks,
BB
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David J. Bockman
It's pretty simple really: Hard pruning of lignified branches can be carried
out in the winter before buds break. Do your other pruning immediately after
flowering to keep the tree in shape and maintain the desired profile. If
your cherry is a high graft (and it almost certainly is) beware of suckers
growing from the standard just below the graft point. Cut those off
immediately as they will not grow in the desired weeping habit and will also
draw strength from the rest of the tree. Rub bud pops off the standard when
they appear.
--
David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7)
Bunabayashi Bonsai On The World Wide Web: http://www.bunabayashi.com
email: d...@bunabayashi.com
The Dog Guy <T...@bugme.com> wrote in message
news:M57dOmQQPKp2Hh...@4ax.com...
firetiger428
To BB, Hello, My name is Pete McCallum from Virginia. I'm a certified ISA
arborist. It has been my experience in the field of arborculture that I
have seen people "love their tree to death" in certain landscapes. The best
time to prune is late winter before the sap flow, but a general rule is that
you can prune anytime. Proper pruning wouldn't hurt the tree. Too much
pruning of the green wood can lead to sucker growth in the future. You only
want to prune 20-40% of green wood, only if you need to though. What I
would do is, only prune out the dead wood, and crossing branches so the tree
would not have problems in the future. as far as elevation on weeping
cherries. Personally I like the branches to drape on the ground, It lets
the tree grow what it is designed for naturally. If you want to elevate the
tree at the terminal ends you can, just dont head cut the branches. What I
see too often is a battle between trees and grass. It is really hard to
have both. If I can help further please e-mail me .. fireti...@home.com
Mary Elizabeth
indiscriminately for who knows how many years? It's at least 15 and
possibly 20 feet tall, with tons of straight-up growth and crossing
limbs. Should I, next late-winter, take a saw to all the ex-waterspouts
and crossing limbs, or is it too late to do anything? It's blooming
beautifully now, but every time I'm near it (I'm ripping out the grass
underneath to put shade plants in), I notice all the "what not to let a
tree do" developments on the poor thing.
--
---------------------------------------
Mary "There is no St. Beth" Elizabeth |
Who is not an orphan |
---------------------------------------
David J. Bockman
The description of your tree reminds me of the one at my parents' house.
Rubbing branches, crossed and inward growing branches, etc. IMHO, there's
nothing to be done once the tree gets to that age, except prune the truly
barbarous stuff.
--
David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7)
Bunabayashi Bonsai On The World Wide Web: http://www.bunabayashi.com
email: d...@bunabayashi.com
Mary Elizabeth <bethN...@orph.org> wrote in message
news:3ADE13C1...@orph.org...
David J. Bockman
It's pretty simple really: Hard pruning of lignified branches can be carried
out in the winter before buds break. Do your other pruning immediately after
flowering to keep the tree in shape and maintain the desired profile. If
your cherry is a high graft (and it almost certainly is) beware of suckers
growing from the standard just below the graft point. Cut those off
immediately as they will not grow in the desired weeping habit and will also
draw strength from the rest of the tree. Rub bud pops off the standard when
they appear.
--
David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7)
Bunabayashi Bonsai On The World Wide Web: http://www.bunabayashi.com
email: d...@bunabayashi.com
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Mary Elizabeth [reposted because of rogue cancel]
indiscriminately for who knows how many years? It's at least 15 and
possibly 20 feet tall, with tons of straight-up growth and crossing
limbs. Should I, next late-winter, take a saw to all the ex-waterspouts
and crossing limbs, or is it too late to do anything? It's blooming
beautifully now, but every time I'm near it (I'm ripping out the grass
underneath to put shade plants in), I notice all the "what not to let a
tree do" developments on the poor thing.
--
---------------------------------------
Mary "There is no St. Beth" Elizabeth |
Who is not an orphan |
---------------------------------------
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firetiger428
To BB, Hello, My name is Pete McCallum from Virginia. I'm a certified ISA
arborist. It has been my experience in the field of arborculture that I
have seen people "love their tree to death" in certain landscapes. The best
time to prune is late winter before the sap flow, but a general rule is that
you can prune anytime. Proper pruning wouldn't hurt the tree. Too much
pruning of the green wood can lead to sucker growth in the future. You only
want to prune 20-40% of green wood, only if you need to though. What I
would do is, only prune out the dead wood, and crossing branches so the tree
would not have problems in the future. as far as elevation on weeping
cherries. Personally I like the branches to drape on the ground, It lets
the tree grow what it is designed for naturally. If you want to elevate the
tree at the terminal ends you can, just dont head cut the branches. What I
see too often is a battle between trees and grass. It is really hard to
have both. If I can help further please e-mail me .. fireti...@home.com
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David J. Bockman
It's pretty simple really: Hard pruning of lignified branches can be carried
out in the winter before buds break. Do your other pruning immediately after
flowering to keep the tree in shape and maintain the desired profile. If
your cherry is a high graft (and it almost certainly is) beware of suckers
growing from the standard just below the graft point. Cut those off
immediately as they will not grow in the desired weeping habit and will also
draw strength from the rest of the tree. Rub bud pops off the standard when
they appear.
--
David J. Bockman, Fairfax, VA (USDA Hardiness Zone 7)
Bunabayashi Bonsai On The World Wide Web: http://www.bunabayashi.com
email: d...@bunabayashi.com
The Dog Guy <T...@bugme.com> wrote in message
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dr-...@wi.rr.com
growth. prune in late July or august the growth you dont want coming back
.. including waterspouts. I dont trim in early spring cause it seems fire
blight is more likely to infect at that time of year. Ingrid
Mary Elizabeth <bethN...@orph.org> wrote:
> Should I, next late-winter, take a saw to all the ex-waterspouts
>and crossing limbs, or is it too late to do anything? It's blooming
>beautifully now, but every time I'm near it (I'm ripping out the grass
>underneath to put shade plants in), I notice all the "what not to let a
>tree do" developments on the poor thing.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
dr....@megapathdsl.net in the Frozen Tundra zone 5 sorta
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