Xeriscape Gardening Newsletter
Victoria
email. I thought the information was so wonderful as it pertains to watering
that I requested permission to reprint it here in rec.gardens. Many of you know
me and you all know I have nothing to do with High Country Gardens in any way,
shape or form. I simply love to provide accurate information, and I've found
this newsletter to be excellent this month.
The following attribution was necessary to re-post the newsletter here.
Please enjoy and do take a look at their website for native plants. Can't beat
them.
Victoria
High Country Gardens has a full catalog of water-wise perennial plants for
the Western garden. Visit their site at http://highcountrygardens.com. To
subscribe to the free e-zine "Xeriscape Gardening News," send blank e-mail
to join-g...@lists.highcountrygardens.com.
Our mailing address is:
High Country Gardens
2904 Rufina St
Santa Fe, NM 87505
800-925-9387
>------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Xeriscape Gardening News
> from High Country Gardens
> Issue #6 --March 2000
> David Salman, Chief Horticulturist
> Publisher
>------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>You are receiving this newsletter because you have
>requested a subscription.
>
>We hope will find the information here useful.
>
>All articles are by David Salman except where indicated.
>------------------------------------------------------------
>
>IN THIS ISSUE
>+ Watering Your Garden
>+ Cold-Hardy Cactus, Part 2
>+ Upcoming Gardening Symposium
>+ INTERNET SPECIALS
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>WATERING YOUR GARDEN
>
>Now that the growing season is upon us and the daytime
>temperatures are warming up, the question of "how often
>should I water my plants?" is on all of our minds. Unfortunately,
>there is no cookbook recipe to answer this question. But there
>are certainly many factors to consider when we decide "how much"
>and "how often" we water.
>
>HOW OFTEN SHOULD NEW PLANTS BE WATERED?
>Ask yourself the following questions to develop a feel for
>watering frequency.
>1) How long since transplanting? Newly planted plants
>require more frequent watering than established plants.
>Begin to cut back the frequency after 2 to 3 weeks as the
>plant roots start growing out into the surrounding soil and
>the above ground portion of the plant shows strong signs of
>new growth.
>
>2) How hot and windy is it? Heat and wind cause increased
>water loss by plants. When day time temperatures move into
>the 80's , water newly transplanted plants every other day.
>Once the air temperature hits
>the 90 degree mark check the plants morning and evening,
>looking for wilted leaves as an indicator of dryness. Initially,
>a daily watering WILL be needed for small plants.
>
>3) How deep did that last rain penetrate the soil? Rain
>amounts can be deceiving. Always stick a shovel into the
>ground after a rain and do a visual check as to how deeply
>the water soaked into the soil. The soil needs to be damp at
>least 4 inches deep to do new transplants any good.
>
>4) What pot size was the plant was grown in? Small
>perennials and bedding plants transplanted from 4 packs and
>4" pots will need more frequent irrigation that 5 gallon
>sized trees. Don't water 4" and 5 gallon plants on the same
>schedule.
>
>5) Have the plants been mulched? Mulching plants can cut
>watering frequency by half (e.g. every other day vs. daily,
>twice weekly vs. every other day)
>
>6) What type of soil you have? Compost enriched soils hold
>more water in the root zone that unprepared soils. Clay and
>loam type soils hold more water than sandy soils. Sandy
>soils dry out very quickly and plants will need very
>frequent irrigation when first planted. Also keep in mind
>that when climate conditions are very dry, extra water is
>needed to replaced moisture lost to the dry soil surrounding
>the planting hole.
>
>To minimize the frequency of watering, mulch thoroughly,
>enrich the soil with compost and mix in water holding
>crystals (Broadleaf P-4). As a point of reference, during
>hot, rainless periods a healthy, established annual or
>perennial plant should be watered one to three times a week.
>A woody tree or shrub under these same conditions would need
>a thorough soaking once or twice weekly.
>
>HOW MUCH SHOULD THE PLANTS BE WATERED?
>Always construct an ample water saucer (well) around each
>plant and mulch. When it is time to water, fill the well
>twice allowing the water to be absorbed completely before
>filling it a second time. During the dry, hot months of the
>summer conventional turf lawns and groundcover beds will
>need one inch of water every week. Native grass lawns and
>xeric groundcovers need one inch every other week. Set out a
>rain gauge or coffee can to measure the amount applied.
>
>When you water, soak the soil thoroughly. It is preferable
>to water more heavily and less frequently than to water
>lightly with much greater frequency. Deep watering promotes
>deep root growth.
>
>WHAT ARE SIGNS OF OVER- WATERING?
>When the soil stays wet and the leaves of recent transplants
>become yellow and chlorotic looking, cut back your watering
>by half. Not half the amount, half the frequency. If you're
>watering every other day, cut back to once every forth day.
>
>If you are watering regularly but the leaves look wilted all
>the time, the plant roots are dying of suffocation. Too much
>water keeps the soil waterlogged and oxygen deficient. Pull
>back the mulch from the plant and let the top inch of the
>soil dry between waterings.
>
>BUT THESE PLANTS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE XERIC!
>"I planted my xeric Penstemon and watered it that day. I
>came back two weeks later and it was dead! I thought this
>plant didn't need any extra water?" To this I say "yes and
>no". No, xeric plants don't need much extra water ONCE
>established. But yes, even xeric plants need careful
>attention to their watering needs during the first growing
>season. Xeric plants have extensive root systems that pull
>water from the surrounding soil, but until a new transplant
>can re-establish its root system, it needs regular
>irrigation during rainless periods to grow and prosper.
>
>FORGET "THE THUMB OVER THE END OF THE HOSE" METHOD
>When hand-watering with a hose, it is of critical importance
>that some
>type of water breaker be used. A hard stream of water
>straight from the
>end of the hose will dig-up smaller plants and expose the
>roots of trees
>and shrubs. We use a water wand (a tubular metal extension
>handle with a hand grip and thumb operated on-off valve)
>with a round waterbreaker on the end. The waterbreaker
>divides the forceful stream of water into hundreds of small
>streams thus dissipating the force of the water and creating
>a gentle rain to water with. Dramm makes an excellent water
>wand and waterbreaker combination.
>
>When watering small seedlings or plants on a slope, I like
>to use a rose flare type waterbreaker to provide a gentle,
>low volume water flow. When hand watering on a slope with a
>rose flare, water until the water is not being absorbed by the soil
>and begins to run-off. Stop, let it soak in a few minutes and
>start again. Repeat this process 4 or 5 time until the soil
>is wet to a depth of 4 or more inches. This technique will
>reduce the amount of run-off and slope erosion.
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>GARDENING WITH COLD-HARDY CACTI, Part 2
>
>(Part 1 of this article appeared in the April issue. You can
>read it on our site at
><http://highcountrygardens.com/nl/nl7.html>.)
>
>How to Grow Cold-Hardy Cacti in the Garden
>
>In the garden cold hardy cacti are not difficult to grow if
>you keep their basic requirements in mind. First and
>foremost, cacti require excellent drainage. Secondly, they
>like alkaline, mineral soils. That is, they need lean soils
>that have not been amended with lots of sphagnum peat moss
>or compost. And thirdly, they should be situated to receive
>full sun, especially during the winter months.
>
>Drainage is critical to the health of a cactus plant's root
>system. Planting cacti into water retentive soils like heavy
>clays and rich loams will result in root rot. Low spots
>that collect water should also be avoided. Excellent
>drainage is particularly important during the winter,
>especially in areas that receive frequent rains or snows. I
>recommend planting in raised or bermed (mounded) beds,
>especially where the native soils hold water and stay wet.
>
>To create a lean, fast draining soil for these raised beds
>and berms, mix the native soil with one half coarse sand by
>volume. Add to this mix the minerals that cacti crave by
>incorporating Planters II (a natural trace mineral
>fertilizer) and phosphate at recommended rates. Working
>larger rocks into the planting area also adds a pleasing
>landscape element. Well-placed rocks also create pockets of
>soil that duplicate spots where cacti are found growing in
>the wild.
>
>Situating the planting area properly is also of critical
>importance. Locate planting beds in full sun against south
>and west facing walls, or in hot, dry areas surrounded by
>cement sidewalks and driveways. When looking for a planting
>spot, be sure that a garden bed in full summer sun doesn't
>find itself in the shade as the sun drops lower in the
>winter sky.
>-------------
>
>Transplanting Techniques for Cacti
>
>When it comes time to plant your new cacti, several
>techniques can be used to improve transplanting success.
>Most importantly, always plant cacti bare-root. Wait for the
>soil in the pot to dry out. Then gently loosen the soil in
>the root ball with your fingers and shake it off. Once the
>soil is gone trim the roots back by 1/3rd with sharp
>scissors or pruning shears. Plant into a shallow hole,
>spreading the roots out evenly. Back fill the hole holding
>the cactus so the crown (junction of root and stem) in just
>above the surrounding soil. Settle the soil between the
>roots by carefully vibrating the plant up and down. Now
>mulch with crushed (not round) gravel to a depth of 1 to 2
>inches depending on the size of the plant. Don't worry when
>the gravel covers some of the spines up from the base of the
>plant. The mulch will settle a bit with time.
>
>I wait a day or two to water in the new transplants. This
>gives the cut roots time to callus over. At that point I
>water thoroughly with a root stimulating mixture of seaweed
>and a dilute high phosphorous fertilizer. When watering
>cacti, it is better to err on the side of dryness than to
>overwater, especially in the colder months. However, during
>the heat of the summer cacti will respond positively to a
>weekly soaking.
>--------------
>
>Maintenance Tips for Healthy Cacti
>
>A well designed planting of cacti and companion plants
>should make for a low maintenance garden. Apply a single
>application of a granular fertilizer in late fall or spring.
>I prefer organic formulations especially those with alfalfa
>meal. This should be supplemented with a dose of liquid
>seaweed several times through the summer. With the arrival
>of fall, watering should be discontinued to allow the cacti
>to shrivel and harden off for winter.
>
>Fall clean-up is also important. Remove fallen leaves and
>prune back the stems of neighboring plants that have grown
>over or around the cacti. This helps to keep the cacti dry
>during the winter by facilitating maximum sunlight and air
>circulation around the plants.
>------------
>
>Incorporating Cacti into Landscape Designs
>
>Here in Santa Fe and throughout the western US, water-wise
>(Xeric) garden designs are becoming increasingly popular.
>Xeriscaping not only promotes water conservation, but
>emphasizes the importance of using plants that are well
>suited to our rugged, arid climates. Indeed, cacti are ideal
>xeric plants and will greatly enhance any landscape planting
>by adding colorful flowers and a year-round structural
>element with their handsome evergreen stems.
>
>The key to creating a satisfying garden design that includes
>cacti, is an understanding of how they can be used in
>combination with other plants. In habitat, cacti are found
>growing among a variety of succulent and non-succulent
>plants. It is important to dispel the misconception among
>some gardeners that cacti can only be planted with other
>cacti. This type of design fails to take advantage of the
>beautiful plant combinations made possible by combining
>non-succulents with the cold hardy cacti. It also avoids the
>negative result that I have heard termed a "pincushion
>garden".
>
>There are several design philosophies that can be used as
>guidelines for creating a good looking garden that includes
>cacti. From the standpoint of native plant use, I recommend
>making a plant list based on species found in a given region
>of the western US. This approach will make a replica of the
>landscape you might encounter if you were hiking in the
>Colorado foothills or along a mountain path in the
>Chihuahuan desert. Done in an aesthetically pleasing manner,
>this type of garden can be beautiful, educational and
>attractive to hummingbirds and other creatures that
>recognize home.
>
>The other approach that I often suggest is to make a plant
>list that includes a variety of compatible cold hardy xeric
>plants without regard to the plant's status as native or
>non-native. For example, the plant list would include
>succulent South African groundcovers from the genus Ruschia,
>some Lavendar cultivars and other interesting rock garden
>sized plants from the Mediterranean region of Europe.
>Additional plants would include some US natives like Agave
>and Agastache. This more cosmopolitan design is also
>recommended for areas outside of the western US with
>climates that would be mis-matched to the preferences of
>xeric western native species.
>
>Recommended Companion Plants
>A short list of favorite US natives that I like to use in my
>cacti xeriscapes include herbaceous perennials such as:
>Perky Sue (Hymenoxys species)
>Skullcap (Scutellaria resinosa and S. suffrutescens)
>Sundrops (Calylophus species)
>Pineleaf Beardtonque (Penstemon pinifolius) and other small
>growing Penstemon species
>cold hardy Salvia greggii cultivars like "Furman's Red"
>Hummingbird Mints (Agastache species), and Flame Flower
>(Talinum calycinum).
>
>Evergreen succulents include:
>Agave parryi and A. utahensis
>Sotol (Dasylirion wheeleri),
>Texas Red Yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora).
>
>Woody shrubs like Big Sage (Artemisia tridentata) and Apache
>Plume (Falugia) blend nicely, particularly with the larger
>growing cacti.
>
>The cold hardy Mediterraneans offer many wonderful companion
>plants. Among my favorites are the English Lavender
>(Lavandula) cultivars as they are culturally very compatible
>with the cacti. As a group, the other hardy ornamental herbs
>are also excellent.
>
>Included here are: Rosmarinus off. "Madaline Hill", and
>Salvia officinalis "Minimus".
>
>Other favorites include the miniature groundcover Speedwells
>(Veronica thymoides and V. oltensis).
>
>Other mounding rock garden perennials like Greek Yarrow
>(Achillea argentea), the succulent Hen and Chicks
>(Sempervivum cultivars), Persian Rockcress (Aethionema
>species), Basket-of-Gold (Alyssum species and Mt. Atlas
>Daisy (Anacyclus depressus) fit in nicely as well.
>
>When using either design approach, be sure to choose plants
>that are not too large. Avoid pairing a large, fast growing
>plant with a smaller, slower growing cacti. After a year or
>two, the more vigorous plant may smother the cactus and kill
>it.
>------------
>
>Protecting Cacti in the Wild
>
>An important part of installing a garden is purchasing the
>plants. It has been an unfortunate fact that many gardeners
>with their infatuation with cacti have purchased plants
>collected from the wild. Over time, this has decimated the
>populations of many cactus species in their native habitats.
>It is of utmost importance to purchase plants form reputable
>nurseries that propagate the cacti they sell and do not
>re-sell wild collected plants. Nursery propagated plants
>will transplant readily with few loses. On the other hand
>most wild collected cacti struggle and die when removed from
>their homes.
>
>Another advantage of buying nursery-propagated plants is
>that quite often the plants come with information concerning
>their origins. This collection data (where the original seed
>was found) adds a lot to the horticultural value of that
>plant. Many species have tremendous variability throughout
>their range. These differences include variations in stem
>size, spination, and even flower color. This is of
>particular interest to gardeners who enjoy building a
>collection of the various cactus species. Collection data
>also gives valuable information regarding cold hardiness.
>Many species exhibit increased cold hardiness within their
>range, particularly when it is found in more northerly, high
>elevation locations.
>
>Designing gardens to include the use of cold hardy cacti
>opens the door to a new way of thinking about this family of
>stunning native plants. Excitement about discovering them
>will no doubt have you walking you landscape, looking for a
>suitable spot to plant a grouping of cacti and some
>companion plants.
>
>Look for the plants mentioned in this article by using the
>Quick Search Plant Finder at
>http://highcountrygardens.com/shop/
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>UPCOMING GARDENING SYMPOSIUM
>
>Landscaping & Gardening with Rocky Mountain Native Plants
>June 23-24
>Hosted by The Colorado Federation of Garden Clubs, Inc. in
>cooperation with the Denver Botanic Gardens.
>
>The symposium is designed to enhance your knowledge and
>appreciation of Rocky Mountain native plants. Learn how to
>create your own naturally beautiful garden.
>
>For a brochure or registration information contact:
>Audrey Edwards
>2460 S. Krameria St.
>Denver, CO 80222-6330
>303-756-9692
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>INTERNET SPECIALS!
>
>Save on these plants:
>A group of columbines
>Buffalo grass
>Royal Red Butterfly Bush (attracts butterflies and
>hummingbirds)
>'Bavaria Blue' (Dwarf Bell Flower)
>Bluebell of Scotland
>'Moonlight' Hardy Broom
>Coral Bells
>'Pink Crystals'™ Ruby Grass
>Redbirds in a Tree
>Gray Creeping Germander
>
>Liquid Gro-Power is also on sale.
>
>You can learn more about these and order them at the sale
>price at
>http://www.highcountrygardens.com/shop/prod.html?class=specials
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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*****************************
Suzie-Q
garden - probably next year - so I'm looking for information now.
8^)~~~~ Sue
~~~~~~~
"I reserve the absolute right to be smarter
today than I was yesterday." -Adlai Stevenson
**************************************************************
ICQ me at 44667939 (http://www.icq.com/)
Voice mail: 1-888-830-5748 ext. 9465 (http://mytalk.com)
Visit me at http://eckhardt.net/suzanne/
Win at http://www.windough.com/index.cfm?partner=suzanne617
**************************************************************
Victoria
V
Suzie-Q
>
> It is a very good newsletter to subscribe to. I get it all the time.
Actually, I followed the instructions and send the blank e-mail
to the e-mail address in the newsletter. I got a response saying
that the e-mail address doesn't exist. I'm hoping I can subscribe
at their web site. (Haven't checked yet.)
loonyhiker
Try again. I just did it and it worked. It seemed like a really good
newsletter so I couldn't resist!
loonyhiker
Suzie-Q <sue6...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:39236A...@earthlink.net...
lee
<39236A...@earthlink.net>:
>Victoria wrote:
>>
>> It is a very good newsletter to subscribe to. I get it all
>> the time.
>
>Actually, I followed the instructions and send the blank
>e-mail to the e-mail address in the newsletter. I got a
>response saying that the e-mail address doesn't exist.
could be they were having a mail server glitch. unfortunately,
computers, even servers, are fallible. :(
try again & see if it works. if not, try sending an email to
support@the ISP and ask them to check on it. i had one mail list
where they had to hand add me because thier server just wouldn't
see my emails (they had a referse DNS lookup error in thier add
script)
lee
Victoria
On Thu, 18 May 2000 05:28:34 -0400, "loonyhiker" <loony...@pipeline.com>
wrote:
>Sue,
>
>Try again. I just did it and it worked. It seemed like a really good
>newsletter so I couldn't resist!
>
>loonyhiker
>
>
>Suzie-Q <sue6...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>news:39236A...@earthlink.net...
>> Victoria wrote:
>> >
>> > It is a very good newsletter to subscribe to. I get it all the time.
>>
>> Actually, I followed the instructions and send the blank e-mail
>> to the e-mail address in the newsletter. I got a response saying
m. benson
www.highcountrygardens.com. You can subscribe to their news letter at the
website.
"Suzie-Q" <sue6...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:39236A...@earthlink.net...
> Victoria wrote:
> >
> > It is a very good newsletter to subscribe to. I get it all the time.
>
> Actually, I followed the instructions and send the blank e-mail
> to the e-mail address in the newsletter. I got a response saying
> that the e-mail address doesn't exist. I'm hoping I can subscribe
> at their web site. (Haven't checked yet.)
>
> 8^)~~~~ Sue
> ~~~~~~~
>