Perennial Lavendar
busybee
Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade secret
I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK, this
is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
Ya, right!
Busybee
Zone 4 - MN
John
wrote:
>Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade secret
>I should know about?
My lavendar looks great! It's not untill mid to late Spring that
lavendar will start to look alive. I put straw around the base of the
plants for Winter protectection and do not cut withered folliage
before the cold season. Water weekly during the hot months if you run
into a dry spell.
Hope this helps, john
Aileen Power
>
> My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
>
> is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
> Ya, right!
>
> Busybee
> Zone 4 - MN
Hi there Busybee:
I just planted my first Lavender (Augustifolia -
Munstead) last week. From what I've read and from what
I've been told by the nursery people, it needs to be
mulched in winter even though it is supposed to be
hardy to zone 4. Stoechas (Spanish Lavender) is more
tender and hardy to zone 7.
Perhaps some others on the group might let us know how
well the mulching works in cold winter climates such as
ours?
Aileen Power
apo...@nrtco.net
in Ontario, Canada
zone 4b
Charles Bjorgen
>
> My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
>
> Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade secret
> I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK, this
> is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
> Ya, right!
I've always treated lavender as an annual here in Minnesota. However,
based on some other replies here, I may try mulching with straw next
fall to see if I can carry the plant through the winter. I just planted
a new lavender yesterday.
Steve Watkins
the recommended variety. I bring some of it inside for the winter, but I
have seen it survive outside in well-drained soil and a good winter mulch.
busybee <bee...@frontiernet.net> wrote in message
news:7i0rha$jca$1...@node17.cwnet.frontiernet.net...
> My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
>
> Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade
secret
> I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK,
this
> is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
> Ya, right!
>
grdngal
Charles Bjorgen wrote:
> busybee wrote:
> >
> > My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
> >
> > Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade secret
> > I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK, this
> > is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
> > Ya, right!
>
> I've always treated lavender as an annual here in Minnesota. However,
> based on some other replies here, I may try mulching with straw next
> fall to see if I can carry the plant through the winter. I just planted
> a new lavender yesterday.
Remember that lavendar originated in a Mediterranean climate. It would prefer
cool, not damp winters and hot, dry summers. Many new cultivars have been
developed which broaden its cultural requirements, but Zone 4 is probably pushing
the envelop - most references limit hardiness to zone 5. If you can find it, try a
variety 'Fred Boutin' which is a very hardy, compact growng cultivar of L.
angustifolia. It doesn't seem to mind somewhat damper winters, but I would
certainly mulch heavily to protect against winter freezes.
Pam - gardengal
ck
> On Thu, 20 May 1999 06:28:53 -0500, "busybee" <bee...@frontiernet.net>
> wrote:
>
> >Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade secret
> >I should know about?
>
> My lavendar looks great! It's not untill mid to late Spring that
> lavendar will start to look alive. I put straw around the base of the
> plants for Winter protectection and do not cut withered folliage
> before the cold season. Water weekly during the hot months if you run
> into a dry spell.
>
> Hope this helps, john
John, do you cut back your lavender at all? We cut it back this spring, along
with the rest of our perennials, and it doesn't seem to want to jump back like
the others did.
Cheryl
--
Cheryl
To reply remove *spamfree* from name.
***********************
Reality is a scary place to visit...
Oh Toto, I want to go home...
Jonathan Doonan
light,rich,limey,well drained soil
www.amturf.com
**** Posted from RemarQ - http://www.remarq.com - Discussions Start Here (tm) ****
B & J
> busybee wrote:
> >
> > My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
> >
> > Busybee
> > Zone 4 - MN
>
> Hi there Busybee:
> I just planted my first Lavender (Augustifolia -
> Munstead) last week. From what I've read and from what
> I've been told by the nursery people, it needs to be
> mulched in winter
>
> Perhaps some others on the group might let us know how
> well the mulching works in cold winter climates such as
> ours?
>
> Aileen Power
I had Munstead survive for many years in zone 3a, northern MN until I forgot to
cover it during an open (read - no snow) winter. I managed by using red pine
needles piled to a depth of 18" on them following by anchoring a piece of plastic
over the needles to keep them dry. The needles were better than straw (will work)
because they didn't compact as much or hold as much moisture, increasing
insulation. The plastic was the important part because it kept the mulch dry.
John
Aileen Power
What about Jack Pine or White Pine needles. Will they
work the same as Red Pine?
Aileen
John
<korbus*spamfree*@uillinois.edu> wrote:
>John, do you cut back your lavender at all?
No. This years new growth came from the existing withered (dead
looking) stems. I removed the winter straw from the base of the plant
in the Spring. Each year the lavendar is larger and more full than
the next.
btw... I live in zone 5
Regards, John
Jim McQuiggin
> with the rest of our perennials, and it doesn't seem to want to jump back like
> the others did.
>
> Cheryl
>
> --
> Cheryl
>
> To reply remove *spamfree* from name.
>
> ***********************
> Reality is a scary place to visit...
> Oh Toto, I want to go home...
Interesting. I cut mine back the same weekend as I did my roses, just
when they're beginning to show the first signs of new growth. They're
looking better now than I remember in other years. BTW, roses look good,
too. Some buds already, should have blossoms in about ten days. We
could sure use some rain, though!
Jim
Niagara
busybee
Jim McQuiggin wrote in message <3744A0B3...@cgocable.net>...
Hi Jim--
We've been stuck in a low pressure pattern for the past 18 days! Sure wish
we could wave some rain out your way. We're 2 " over the average for the
month and more rain forcasted through the weekend!
Needs to dry out SOON so the farmers can get in the fields to finish
planting!
--Busybee
So. MN
B & J
> B & J wrote:
> >
> > I had Munstead survive for many years in zone 3a, northern MN until I forgot to
> > cover it during an open (read - no snow) winter. I managed by using red pine
> > needles piled to a depth of 18" on them following by anchoring a piece of plastic
> > over the needles to keep them dry. The needles were better than straw (will work)
> > because they didn't compact as much or hold as much moisture, increasing
> > insulation. The plastic was the important part because it kept the mulch dry.
> >
> > John
>
> What about Jack Pine or White Pine needles. Will they
> work the same as Red Pine?
>
> Aileen
Jack Pine needles are too short to be really effective. White Pine are okay but mat
more than Red Pine (Norway), which I found were the best. The length of the needles
seems to separate more leaving air spaces that increase insulation. BTW, I preserved
my collection of needles from year to year in huge, plastic yard bags kept in the
garage. I even volunteered to clean the needles under a neighbor's Red Pines when they
fell in the fall.
John
m&v
>My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
>
>Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade secret
>I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK, this
>is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
>Ya, right!
>
>Busybee
>Zone 4 - MN
>
I don't know any lavender which is truly hardy that high up north.
yew
>On Thu, 20 May 1999 06:28:53 -0500, "busybee" <bee...@frontiernet.net>
wrote:
>
>>My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
>>
>>Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade
secret
>>I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK,
this
>>is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
>>Ya, right!
>>
>>Busybee
>>Zone 4 - MN
I'm having good luck growing Lady Lavender from seed. I had a very high
germination rate this spring (over 80%). This variety is said to bloom from
seed the first year, which I imagine would be a real benefit up north.
Overall, I think the cost savings would be substantial, and you have the
option of growing as many plants as you want.
The ever frugal,
Brina
craig sweet
cartoon cheese wrote:
> In article <19990527213435...@ng36.aol.com>,
> lrob...@aol.comremQ. (LRobertie) wrote:
>
> >>My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
> >>
> >>Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade secret
> >>I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK, this
> >>is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
> >>Ya, right!
> >>
> >>Busybee
> >>Zone 4 - MN
> >>
> >Lavender in zone 6 is difficult. You will have to provide lots of winter
> >protection in the form of a heavy mulch. Also, make sure the plant is in a
> >well well drained soil. Nothing like wet winter feet to kill a lavender.
>
> Mine didn't come back either and I'm in zone 5/6 [just a tiny bit in
> 5]. I'm so disappointed because last year, they're first year in the
> ground, they did so well. They got real big and filled in nicely.
>
> beth
> zone 5/6
>
> --
> "As long as people will accept crap, it will be financially profitable to
> dispense it." -- Dick Cavett
LRobertie
>
>Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade secret
>I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK, this
>is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
>Ya, right!
>
>Busybee
>Zone 4 - MN
>
Lavender in zone 6 is difficult. You will have to provide lots of winter
protection in the form of a heavy mulch. Also, make sure the plant is in a
well well drained soil. Nothing like wet winter feet to kill a lavender.
Larry Robertie
Just Noth ov Bastin, zone 6
BTW...
it's not a Nor' Easter
it's a Noth Easta
busybee
(ok, if not in my garden...you can find me there) said to "dig them in" or
bury them for the winter. Mulch heavily and anchor plastic over them to
more or less keep them dry. Or you can dig them, cut them back and put them
in a planter to bring in during the long harsh MN winter. Transplant in
spring. ??? Sound like a plan?
craig sweet wrote in message <374E12D6...@in-tch.com>...
>We have real good luck with 'Munstead' in western Montana...zone 4b...haha!
>
>cartoon cheese wrote:
>
>> In article <19990527213435...@ng36.aol.com>,
>> lrob...@aol.comremQ. (LRobertie) wrote:
>>
>> >>My perennial lavendar is only an annual!
>> >>
>> >>Hard as I try, I cannot get lavendar to survive. Is there some trade
secret
>> >>I should know about? Each year I buy a new lavendar plant saying "OK,
this
>> >>is thee last lavendar plant I will ever have to buy".
>> >>Ya, right!
>> >>
>> >>Busybee
>> >>Zone 4 - MN
>> >>
>> >Lavender in zone 6 is difficult. You will have to provide lots of
winter
>> >protection in the form of a heavy mulch. Also, make sure the plant is
in a
>> >well well drained soil. Nothing like wet winter feet to kill a
lavender.
>>
Cheryl E Netter
foothills of Colorado, which is a warmish USDA zone 4.
I've found that lavender is very intolerant of winter
wet and prefers to be bone dry in the winter and likes
soil with very good drainage. I've also heard that it
likes alkaline soil which is what we have here.
I've grown it for about 12 years now and have most of
the original 12 plants, plus ALOT of seedlings all
over the place.
cheryl
craig sweet (cr...@in-tch.com) wrote:
: We have real good luck with 'Munstead' in western Montana...zone 4b...haha!
Dianna Visek
humid, the winters are cold with not much snow cover, and the soil is
heavy clay. Nothing like the Mediterranean climate that lavender
likes. I've had lavender 'Provence' growing for several years now
with no problem and no winter protection. It was bred to be more rot
resistant than other lavenders.
I grow it in a raised bed that has pea gravel mixed into the soil,
left from some misguided previous owner. I had been despondent about
the prospect of panning for gravel, til I realized that gravel meant
Mediterranean! So in went the lavender.
The one thing that lavender hates more than anything else is dampness,
especially in winter. I've seen other successful zone 5 lavender beds
made by mounding up gravelly soil or by putting a layer of gravel on
top of the soil. Once you solve the rotting problem, cold isn't
really an issue.
Best wishes!
Christine Dehoff
live in a northern suburb of Buffalo NY (you know our reputation for
winters! However, it's a bit overblown). Anyway, This is my third season
with lavandula angustifolia. I started a few little plants three summers
ago and they are spreading continually. They're in kindof poor soil next
to my garage foundation and get full sun. I've never given them any extra
protection in the winter. They're also situated in a wind tunnel.
They now take up a space about 3'x5'. I guess this is a particularly good
species. I really didn't know anything about it when I planted it, but
wanted it for the color and scent. I'm so surprised to read about the
problems so many are having.....good luck!
Chris zone 5
PRoth10698
is which) that have been in the ground for years. They're planted in different
areas with different light, soil etc. I don't do anything to them, except maybe
every 3-4 years when I'm spreading rock based fertlizer around I sprinkle some
in their direction. I haven't lost any yet, not evenduring the winter of ice
storms a few years ago when I lost so many other perennials. There has been
some minor winterkill and broken branches, but nothing that threatened the
plant. I have found that I need to clean leaves and debris out from around the
plants because this will kill lower branches or at least damage them if left.
Pat zone 6b
proth...@aol.com
John Darlington
house that faces SSW so it gets sun for about 6 hours a day. I have no idea
of the variety as we bought it at a nursery about 8-10 years ago and you
cannot kill it.
Incidentally, I am SW of Ottawa, Ontario, Canada and according to the zone
check I did 5 minutes ago at Virtual Garden www.vg.com I am solidly in Zone
3. I can't believe I am growing something that grows like a weed and is
almost neglected, that people in zone 5 or better are having trouble with.
Amazing. :^)
PRoth10698 wrote in message
<19990529105954...@ng-fe1.aol.com>...