Shredding & blowing peat moss on lawn?
Mama Bear
peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over your lawn after
putting down grass seed, then you water and it helps keep the
moisture in and start the seed so it doesn't dry out.
What do they call the blower that can do that and what do they
usually cost?
--
- Mama Bear
Warren
Wouldn't you rather know if it works before you start spending money?
--
Warren H.
==========
Disclaimer: My views reflect those of myself, and not my
employer, my friends, nor (as she often tells me) my wife.
Any resemblance to the views of anybody living or dead is
coincidental. No animals were hurt in the writing of this
response -- unless you count my dog who desperately wants
to go outside now.
Power Lawncare Tools for Spring Clean-up:
http://www.holzemville.com/mall/blackanddecker/
George.com
"Mama Bear" <Mama...@No-Spam.noo> wrote in message
news:Xns979BD14...@216.196.97.142...
> "Warren" <who...@hotmail.com> wrote :
>
> > Mama Bear wrote:
> >> Someone was telling me that they can use a shredder-blower to
> >> shred peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over your
> >> lawn after putting down grass seed, then you water and it
> >> helps keep the moisture in and start the seed so it doesn't
> >> dry out.
> >>
> >> What do they call the blower that can do that and what do
> >> they usually cost?
> >>
> > Wouldn't you rather know if it works before you start spending
> > money?
> >
> work?
peat moss can be expensive, it certainly is for the stuff you buy for
hanging baskets anyway, and may not be environmentally sustainable if large
amounts are harvested.
As an alternative, I used frost cloth. I prepared the soil, rakes it, threw
on the seed, raked it in to the top soil, watered and staked down some frost
cloth across the top. The cloth kept the direct sun off and moisture in and
reduced the amount of watering I needed to do. I checked it a few times a
day and put the sprinkler on when the soil was starting to dry out. After a
few days the grass started to come through and I pulled the cloth back to
let the sun in. If not frost cloth maybe light sail cloth or old hessian
sacking. It should not be too heavy and cumbersome but not too porous
either.
rob
Doug Kanter
news:e104gq$v2s$1...@lust.ihug.co.nz...
>
> "Mama Bear" <Mama...@No-Spam.noo> wrote in message
> news:Xns979BD14...@216.196.97.142...
>> "Warren" <who...@hotmail.com> wrote :
>>
>> > Mama Bear wrote:
>> >> Someone was telling me that they can use a shredder-blower to
>> >> shred peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over your
>> >> lawn after putting down grass seed, then you water and it
>> >> helps keep the moisture in and start the seed so it doesn't
>> >> dry out.
>> >>
>> >> What do they call the blower that can do that and what do
>> >> they usually cost?
>> >>
>> > Wouldn't you rather know if it works before you start spending
>> > money?
>> >
>> I've been told it can work. But go ahead. What is it, and can it
>> work?
>
> peat moss can be expensive, it certainly is for the stuff you buy for
> hanging baskets anyway, and may not be environmentally sustainable if
> large
> amounts are harvested.
Peat moss also dries out very quickly when exposed to air. Then, two things
happen: First, it acts like a sponge and sucks moisture out of adjacent
materials, like your soil. This assumes it remains in place, which is
probably won't if it's been pulverized and there's any wind. The only
correct way to use peat moss on a lawn is to work it into the soil, not just
put it on top.
Warren
>
> Can someone please answer my original question, without going off
> on tangents like this? Thanks.
>
Why do you think anyone knows where you can get a blower shredder that
will do that? If none of us thinks it's a good idea, why would we have
ever shopped for one? You're not getting a straight answer because your
original message implied that you weren't interested in whether the idea
worked, but just on how to carry-out the idea even if it is a dumb idea.
You came here with your mind made up.
As Doug noted, the shredded peat moss is going to very quickly dry-out.
It's either going to just blow away, or it's going to wick-away water
that otherwise could be going to good use. Think about it. Just how
would loose peat moss help do anything useful? It's a horrible waste of
a natural resource that's being depleted fast enough. As gardeners, even
armature gardeners, we should be stewards of the Earth. Wasting peat
moss on some scheme that has no benefit is not a good idea. And using a
power tool of some sort -- possibly even a gas-powered tool -- is even
worse.
In an earlier message you said, "I've been told it can work." Well, now
you've been told that it doesn't work more than once. I guess if you're
prone to go off and do things -- along with spending money to buy stuff
to do those things -- without any research just because you've "been
told it can work", this should be more than enough to change your mind.
It's a dumb idea. But if you really still want to go ahead and do it,
then you'll just have to do your own shopping. I know I've got better
things to do than shop for you.
George.com
"Mama Bear" <Mama...@No-Spam.noo> wrote in message
> "George.com" <rob...@ihug.co.nz> wrote :
>
> >
> > "Mama Bear" <Mama...@No-Spam.noo> wrote in message
> > news:Xns979BD14...@216.196.97.142...
> >> "Warren" <who...@hotmail.com> wrote :
> >>
> >> > Mama Bear wrote:
> >> >> Someone was telling me that they can use a shredder-blower
> >> >> to shred peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over
> >> >> your lawn after putting down grass seed, then you water
> >> >> and it helps keep the moisture in and start the seed so it
> >> >> doesn't dry out.
> >> >>
> >> >> What do they call the blower that can do that and what do
> >> >> they usually cost?
> >> >>
> >> > Wouldn't you rather know if it works before you start
> >> > spending money?
> >> >
> >> I've been told it can work. But go ahead. What is it, and can
> >> it work?
> >
> > peat moss can be expensive, it certainly is for the stuff you
> > buy for hanging baskets anyway, and may not be environmentally
> > sustainable if large amounts are harvested.
>
> It's about $4 something for a big square of it.
>
> > As an alternative, I used frost cloth. I prepared the soil,
> > rakes it, threw on the seed, raked it in to the top soil,
> > watered and staked down some frost cloth across the top. The
> > cloth kept the direct sun off and moisture in and reduced the
> > amount of watering I needed to do.
>
> expensive to cover an 8000 sq ft lot with it.
go and check out a waste exchange programme is one exists in your area. Here
is a local example of polypropylene to cover 900 square metres.
http://www.rmf.org.nz/terranova/weedmats/
> > I checked it a few times a
> > day and put the sprinkler on when the soil was starting to dry
> > out. After a few days the grass started to come through and I
> > pulled the cloth back to let the sun in. If not frost cloth
> > maybe light sail cloth or old hessian sacking. It should not
> > be too heavy and cumbersome but not too porous either.
>
> Can someone please answer my original question, without going off
> on tangents like this? Thanks.
the answers you have got thus far is that it is a daft idea and will not
work. More than that using enough peat moss to cover an 8000ft lot is a shit
load of peat moss and will cost a shit load of money for the moss itself.
Even more than that, peat moss takes time to develop and using it as a grass
starter is a waste of a resource in my opinion. The only possible way you
could use peat moss I can see is to lay long rolls, like laying carpet, of
it across the earth. It will be a hassle to continually lift to check the
growth of your grass however and roll off when the grass starts to come up.
You will not be able to leave the peat moss down as it will simply starve
your grass of light. Result, dead grass. No, forget the peat moss, its a bad
idea because it most likely won't work as you envisage it, will be a hassle
spread any other effective way, will cost too much money that way and is a
waste of a natural resource. Find a free, or cheap, source of material that
you can stake down over your new seedlings. Leave it down until germination
and then lift up to allow the sun in. Its around if you look for it.
rob
Doug Kanter
news:_fOdnTKe35t...@comcast.com...
> Mama Bear wrote:
>>
>> Can someone please answer my original question, without going off
>> on tangents like this? Thanks.
>>
>
> Why do you think anyone knows where you can get a blower shredder that
> will do that? If none of us thinks it's a good idea, why would we have
> ever shopped for one? You're not getting a straight answer because your
> original message implied that you weren't interested in whether the idea
> worked, but just on how to carry-out the idea even if it is a dumb idea.
> You came here with your mind made up.
>
> As Doug noted, the shredded peat moss is going to very quickly dry-out.
> It's either going to just blow away, or it's going to wick-away water that
> otherwise could be going to good use. Think about it. Just how would loose
> peat moss help do anything useful?
Not only that, but if the lawn were mowed correctly (leaving clippings in
place, mowing as high as possible except for the last cutting before
winter), there will be plenty of organic matter deposited on the lawn. Peat
moss should be saved for garden areas, and used only if the soil is utterly
hideous.
Doug Kanter
> Can someone please answer my original question, without going off
> on tangents like this? Thanks.
You obviously didn't have a question. You had a bad idea and you wanted
other people to agree with it. That's not happening, so maybe you're one of
those people who only recognizes certain sources of knowledge. You know - a
badge, a college degree, but certainly not answers from people who may have
30+ years of gardening experience.
So, I have an idea. Go to Google and do a web search. Copy & paste the exact
line you see below:
"cooperative extension" new york
But, substitute your state for "new york". In the search results, you should
see links to sites that probably will end in .edu. Poke around in those
results, find a phone number, and call your CE service for some advice. They
will most certainly tell you to have soil tests done from various locations
in your yard. And, I'll bet you a year's salary that they will NOT go along
with your massive peat moss debacle.
Dave
news:cA8Zf.5056$kg....@news02.roc.ny...
When I mow my yard I collect the cutting and put the clippings in my garden,
down the isles and around all plants. My garden looks like it has a green
carpet in it. I do this each time I cut grass. It keeps the ground moist
and warm in the early Spring and through out the season. After everything is
harvested at the end of the season I still put clippings on and in the
Spring I deep till it all in. I have had good luck doing this for years and
the soil is a black humus. However, I DO NOT put the clippings on the
garden if I had recently sprayed for weeds, dandelions, etc. I wait a week
or so and after a rain or heavy watering to continue spreading the
clippings. I think it is a waste to always mulch or bag the clippings for
the waste hauler. For one thing it is doesn't cost anything and why waste
money on peat moss? I would only use it for planting trees and shrubs. I
live in Illinois. My 2 cents worth.
Doug Kanter
news:ZHaZf.669139$084.289026@attbi_s22...
Hopefully, you don't use your clippings around edible crops.
Dave
Doug Kanter
Don't do it to your kids.
Kay Lancaster
> Someone was telling me that they can use a shredder-blower to shred
> peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over your lawn after
> putting down grass seed, then you water and it helps keep the
> moisture in and start the seed so it doesn't dry out.
Sounds like you're talking about some variant of hydroseeding/hydromulching.
The smallest, lightest duty unit I've ever seen was about $3-4K, if I recall
correctly. Big ones, self-propelled, I believe are in the $100K+ range.
And chopped straw, sometimes with a tackifier, is typically used.
Sphagnum's a pretty primo product for such a use.
If you really want to go this route, I'd look for a big landscaping company
of the type hired to seed golf courses or estates or highway cuts.
Personally, I've started a lot of lawns over the years with nothing more
than scattering seed by hand over worked up soil, raking and treading it
in, and adding a topping of compost or mulch if I've got it handy. Watering
is the big key to the project, which is why I tend to renovate lawn
in the fall, just before the rains start.
Kay
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
Not@home
that blows a green slurry over the intended lawn area. I don't know
what all is in the slurry, but I believe it includes a starter
fertilizer, some fast growing ryegrass seed, a slower growing better
grass seed, and plenty of green dye. The idea is you get an instant
lawn, first consisting of the green dye, replaced by the rye grass,
which in turn is replaced by the better grass. The sprayer they use is
quite large, and I have never looked for nor seen one for sale, and I
would think it would be wasteful for a homeowner to purchase such a
large machine for a single use. If you want this done, contact a
landscaper, but I would think a good landscaper would use the more
traditional method of checking, smoothing, and rolling the soil, sowing
the seed, raking it in, putting some kind of protective covering over
it, and watering frequently until the lawn is established.
Incidentally, installing a sprinkler system before doing this is an
excellent idea, as you can set it to keep the soil moist during germination.
The protective covering is to keep the birds from eating your seed.
When I do a small area, I cover it with the plastic equivalent of
cheesecloth; it lets in the light and water and air, but keeps the birds
at bay. For a larger area, I buy some straw and strew it over the area,
it doesn't protect from the birds as well, but gives generally good
results, and you don't even have to pick it up; the grass will grow
through it, and it will eventually decompose. Note that I said straw,
not hay. Hay is full of seeds and you don't want that unless you are
starting a hayfield.
Snooze
>>>
>> Yes I do. I've been doing it for years and I'm still living.
>
> Don't do it to your kids.
Chop them up and spread the clippings around the edible crops?
Doug Kanter
"Snooze" <bou...@example.com> wrote in message
news:k3jZf.67164$dW3....@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com...
The clippings are good, except that he said he uses a few lawn chemicals on
his grass, and at some point afterward, the clippings end up spread around
his vegetables. Since none of the chemicals sold for lawn care have been, or
ever will be proven safe, this is risky.
Warren
>> Mama Bear wrote:
>>> Can someone please answer my original question, without going
>>> off on tangents like this? Thanks.
>>>
>> Why do you think anyone knows where you can get a blower
>> shredder that will do that? If none of us thinks it's a good
>> idea, why would we have ever shopped for one? You're not
>> getting a straight answer because your original message
>> implied that you weren't interested in whether the idea
>> worked, but just on how to carry-out the idea even if it is a
>> dumb idea. You came here with your mind made up.
>>
>> As Doug noted, the shredded peat moss is going to very quickly
>> dry-out. It's either going to just blow away, or it's going to
>> wick-away water that otherwise could be going to good use.
>> Think about it. Just how would loose peat moss help do
>> anything useful? It's a horrible waste of a natural resource
>> that's being depleted fast enough. As gardeners, even armature
>> gardeners, we should be stewards of the Earth. Wasting peat
>> moss on some scheme that has no benefit is not a good idea.
>> And using a power tool of some sort -- possibly even a
>> gas-powered tool -- is even worse.
>
>
> Not supposed to use water to grow my grass or power tools? I
> suppose I should abandon all modern things and move back to the
> caves.
>
>> In an earlier message you said, "I've been told it can work."
>> Well, now you've been told that it doesn't work more than
>> once. I guess if you're prone to go off and do things -- along
>> with spending money to buy stuff to do those things -- without
>> any research just because you've "been told it can work", this
>> should be more than enough to change your mind.
>>
>> It's a dumb idea. But if you really still want to go ahead and
>> do it, then you'll just have to do your own shopping. I know
>> I've got better things to do than shop for you.
>
> a lawn. Jeez.
>
And what you've gotten out of this is that we're saying it's not
environmentally sound? You have a big comprehension problem, don't you.
The point is that there is no benefit to shredding and blowing peat moss
on the lawn, but plenty of costs. It's a cost/benefit thing. Economics.
Once again, the peat moss will dry-out when shredded. Some of it will
blow away. What's left will wick water away from the soil and seed,
resulting in the opposite effect of what you apparently think it will
have.
But you apparently still want to go ahead with this foolish, pointless
plan. That's fine with me if it were just you wasting your time and
money. But you're harming my environment to no benefit of your own. So
not only is your plan pointless and costly, it harms the environment. So
you're not just wasting your own time and money, you're impacting the
rest of us, too. The economics of this are just totally upside-down.
Once more in case you missed it: Your plan is dumb. It wastes money. It
wastes resources. And, if anything, it's affect will be the opposite of
what you want.
George.com
> "Mama Bear" <Mama...@No-Spam.noo> wrote in message
> news:Xns979CE39...@216.196.97.142...
>
>
> > Can someone please answer my original question, without going off
> > on tangents like this? Thanks.
Your original question was:
"Someone was telling me that they can use a shredder-blower to shred
peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over your lawn after
putting down grass seed, then you water and it helps keep the
moisture in and start the seed so it doesn't dry out."
"What do they call the blower that can do that and what do they
usually cost?"
No one seem sable to tell you what the blower is called, nor what they cost,
as no one has actually heard of this process being used to mulch grass seed.
Moreover, no one actually seems to think it will work and/or is worth
trying, myself included. Why do you not go back to the person who told you
this information and quiz them further?
rob
--
Doug Kanter
>
> Aw jeez, I had to get into a nest of environazis too!
Environazis? Is that defined as someone who's aware of something you
weren't?
As far as your plan, if it were a good idea, I would've heard of it sometime
since 1970, when I began gardening. And, I would've seen it being done by
landscapers. Sharper minds than yours would've arrived at the same idea
years ago. It has not happened.
If you need to know more about how to use peat moss go to the store and
actually read the information on one of the big bales. If it's accurately
written, it will tell you that peat moss needs to be worked into the soil to
at least 6-8 inches. If you're ready to do that on an 8000 sq ft lawn, knock
yourself out.
Snooze
It was a bad attempt at a joke...chop up the kids, use them as
mulch...nevermind.
The joke failed so badly, cpr won't save it. Might as well print it out,
chop it and spread it among the plants.
Doug Kanter
Got it now. :)
Andrew Ostrander
is for the group.
The peat moss sounds like a fine idea to me, despite what some others have
speculated. I would go with a report from someone who has tried it long
before I'd go with the nay-sayers on this newsgroup who have not. Your
climate matters a lot of course. As to cost, that varies too; around here
peat moss is extremely cheap; it comes on a truck by the yard if you want
it.
I sympathize with the original poster, who asked a simple question and got
sermons in response, but never an answer. (No, I don't know either where
to buy such a blower.)
As added material, I will point out that using peat moss to start a lawn
implies that it will be kept moist. Moist peat moss won't blow anywhere,
and neither will it wick water from the ground. As for wicking significant
water out of the ground, I know that peat pots do that if they are only
partly buried, but I think this is sufficiently different.
Added even later (From http://www.greengate.ca/lawns_sod/): "After seeding
apply a thin layer of peat moss over the entire area. This helps retain
moisture and holds the seed to ensure a quality product." So the idea is
not unknown.
The sarcastic tone of some posters here, who wrote from ignorance as if they
actually knew something about the topic, is not justified.
"Mama Bear" <Mama...@No-Spam.noo> wrote in message
news:Xns979DE50...@216.196.97.142...
> "Warren" <who...@hotmail.com> wrote :
>
> > Mama Bear wrote:
> >>
> >> Can someone please answer my original question, without going
> >> off on tangents like this? Thanks.
> >>
> >
> > Why do you think anyone knows where you can get a blower
> > shredder that will do that? If none of us thinks it's a good
> > idea, why would we have ever shopped for one? You're not
> > getting a straight answer because your original message
> > implied that you weren't interested in whether the idea
> > worked, but just on how to carry-out the idea even if it is a
> > dumb idea. You came here with your mind made up.
> >
> > As Doug noted, the shredded peat moss is going to very quickly
> > dry-out. It's either going to just blow away, or it's going to
> > wick-away water that otherwise could be going to good use.
> > Think about it. Just how would loose peat moss help do
> > anything useful? It's a horrible waste of a natural resource
> > that's being depleted fast enough. As gardeners, even armature
> > gardeners, we should be stewards of the Earth. Wasting peat
> > moss on some scheme that has no benefit is not a good idea.
> > And using a power tool of some sort -- possibly even a
> > gas-powered tool -- is even worse.
>
> Aw jeez, I had to get into a nest of environazis too!
>
> Not supposed to use water to grow my grass or power tools? I
> suppose I should abandon all modern things and move back to the
> caves.
>
> > In an earlier message you said, "I've been told it can work."
> > Well, now you've been told that it doesn't work more than
> > once. I guess if you're prone to go off and do things -- along
> > with spending money to buy stuff to do those things -- without
> > any research just because you've "been told it can work", this
> > should be more than enough to change your mind.
> >
> > It's a dumb idea. But if you really still want to go ahead and
> > do it, then you'll just have to do your own shopping. I know
> > I've got better things to do than shop for you.
>
> You apparently don't even believe in modern technology or having
> a lawn. Jeez.
>
>
>
> --
> - Mama Bear
Doug Kanter
news:tryZf.63$Sw...@newsfe22.lga...
>I replied earlier, but I inadvertently sent it to only one person. Here it
> is for the group.
>
> The peat moss sounds like a fine idea to me, despite what some others have
> speculated. I would go with a report from someone who has tried it long
> before I'd go with the nay-sayers on this newsgroup who have not. Your
> climate matters a lot of course. As to cost, that varies too; around here
> peat moss is extremely cheap; it comes on a truck by the yard if you want
> it.
>
> I sympathize with the original poster, who asked a simple question and
> got
> sermons in response, but never an answer. (No, I don't know either where
> to buy such a blower.)
Nobody else knows where to buy one, either. Imagine trying to blow feathers
onto your lawn, or flour. That's what it would be like to try and blow peat
moss onto the lawn.
> As added material, I will point out that using peat moss to start a lawn
> implies that it will be kept moist. Moist peat moss won't blow anywhere,
> and neither will it wick water from the ground. As for wicking
> significant
> water out of the ground, I know that peat pots do that if they are only
> partly buried, but I think this is sufficiently different.
>
> Added even later (From http://www.greengate.ca/lawns_sod/): "After
> seeding
> apply a thin layer of peat moss over the entire area. This helps retain
> moisture and holds the seed to ensure a quality product." So the idea is
> not unknown.
>
> The sarcastic tone of some posters here, who wrote from ignorance as if
> they
> actually knew something about the topic, is not justified.
The responses became sarcastic when the OP decided she didn't like the
answers, and only wanted to hear "yes", when in fact, the answer is "no". If
you don't have an open mind when you ask questions, then don't ask.
Warren
I take it that you haven't tried this, either, so your word carries no
more weight than anyone else here. (Actually less, since you haven't
built any credibility yet.)
So why do you think that peat pots partially burried wick water out of
the ground?
It's because the peat is exposed to the air. Then the peat touching the
ground wicks water away to replace what is being dried out by the air.
Spreading peat on top of the ground will have the same effect. Peat, in
order to retain moisture, cannot be exposed to the air. Peat exposed to
air will dry out, and will then grab any moisuture it can. The peat pot
partially exposed is very much the same as shredded peat laying on the
surface in this regard.
Also, if you shred peat, and let it dry out, it will be very light. So
yes, some of it will blow away.
> Added even later (From http://www.greengate.ca/lawns_sod/): "After
> seeding
> apply a thin layer of peat moss over the entire area. This helps
> retain
> moisture and holds the seed to ensure a quality product." So the idea
> is
> not unknown.
There are plenty of old wives tales out there. This one makes sense only
if the depth of your thinking goes one level. (Peat wants to hold water,
so it must hold water close to the seeds if I spread it on top of them.)
If one isn't capable of thinking one step further, then it makes sense
to them, and they'll be puzzeled at why they have to water so much more
than the guy who though ahead and didn't spread peat on top of soil.
> The sarcastic tone of some posters here, who wrote from ignorance as
> if they
> actually knew something about the topic, is not justified.
Not only don't you know anything about peat, you don't know what sarcasm
is, either.
What do you think our motivation is? Our motivation is to stop someone
from doing something stupid and wasteful based on half-baked ideas.
Peat laying on top of soil will dry out. The only way it will not dry
out is if you water *more* than you would if it wasn't there.
If you really want to use peat to retain moisture, you need to work it
into the soil so it's not exposed to the air. You can't just shred it,
and blow it. Give it some real thought, and you'll see that this is not
a position of ignorance. Thinking the peat laying on top of the soil
does any good is a position of ignorance.
Snooze
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005V7KX/102-5932762-4657705
This entire time I thought you were going to use something like a
chipper/shredder to launch the peat moss everywhere. I had no idea you were
going to try and use a leaf blower to spread the stuff around.
Please, please, please, get someone to make a video of you using the leaf
blower.
For what it's worth, in the spring time, I just buy a few bags of composted
steer manure and spread that around with a rake.
enigma
> "Andrew Ostrander" <apa...@hotmail.com> wrote :
>> (No, I don't know
>> either where to buy such a blower.)
>
> I've since found out that Toro makes shredder blowers for
> around $80.
it's for shredding leaves for compost, not blowing peat moss
on the lawn. it would not do what you wanted. it would make
holes where the discharge chute is. we have a chipper/shredder
& use a tarp under the discharge chute.
>> As added material, I will point out that using peat moss
>> to start a lawn implies that it will be kept moist.
>
> Exactly. We have a sprinkler system. Now maybe we don't
> even need the peat moss, and we could just turn the
> sprinklers on a few times a day to keep the soil moist. The
> problem last year was that we didnt get the new sprinkler
> system installed until the weather was already warm and the
> weeds took over this new lot. we had to battle them. Now we
> have about 50% grass after the battle of last year and want
> to get 100% grass by this year.
you really should have done your seeding in the fall. grass
grows better when fall seeded. as you found last year, when
you spring seed you get a lot of weeds.
i would seed now with a blend of something fast growing (like
annual rye) & then reseed again in the fall with more
perennial turfgrasses for your area. just don't expect your
lawn to look great for another couple years.
8000 sq.ft. of lawn just sounds like way too much bother, but
that's me... and i have cute llama lawnmowers.
lee
--
war is peace
freedom is slavery
ignorance is strength
1984-George Orwell
Doug Kanter
"Mama Bear" <Mama...@No-Spam.noo> wrote in message
> "Doug Kanter" <ancien...@hotmail.com> wrote :
>
>> "Mama Bear" <Mama...@No-Spam.noo> wrote in message
>> news:Xns979DE50...@216.196.97.142...
>>
>>>
>>> Aw jeez, I had to get into a nest of environazis too!
>>
>> Environazis? Is that defined as someone who's aware of
>> something you weren't?
>
>
>>>> to good use. Think about it. Just how would loose peat moss
> natural
>>>> resource*** that's being depleted fast enough. As gardeners,
>>>> even armature gardeners, ***we should be stewards of the
> Earth.***
>>>> Wasting peat moss on some scheme that has no benefit is not
> possibly
>>>> even a gas-powered tool*** -- is even worse.
>
> - Mama Bear
Well....sounds like he's read a few things that you haven't. Based on your
logic, nobody is allowed to have knowledge that you don't. That's weird! How
do you choose a doctor? Look for a little kid with a toy stethoscope?
Doug Kanter
>
> Anyway, screw the idea, the guy who originally suggested it may
> have been off his rocker.
Why do you say that? Further conversations with this individual?
Doug Kanter
> http://www.greengate.ca/lawns_sod/
> * After seeding apply a thin layer of peat moss over the
> entire area. This helps retain moisture and holds the seed to
> ensure a quality product.
That advice is incorrect.
> I'd like to know how I can do something, not how I can't.
> Crapping all over anything anyone wants to do, is not helpful. It
> looks like usenet is a useless wasteland of frustrated hourly
> workers who take out their frustrations by flaming anything that
> anyone posts.
>
> Thanks a hell of a lot.
If you want to know how to plant a new lawn, then that's the question you
should ask. You would've gotten plenty of positive and useful feedback. But,
you DID NOT ask that question. This is what I saw in your first post, with
regard to "blowing peat moss on lawn":
"I've been told it can work. But go ahead. What is it, and can it work?"
Are those your words?
Doug Kanter
>> Moist peat
>> moss won't blow anywhere, and neither will it wick water from
>> the ground.
>
> That's what I was thinking.
As peat moss dries, it sometimes forms a crust which can be difficult for
seed to penetrate. This is why it's supposed to be mixed into the soil. I
have a question. Have you ever actually handled peat moss that's been broken
down from chunks into a powdery state? I mean....have you touched it with
your hands, especially when it's dry?
>> As for wicking significant water out of the
>> ground, I know that peat pots do that if they are only partly
>> buried, but I think this is sufficiently different.
>>
>> Added even later (From http://www.greengate.ca/lawns_sod/):
>> "After seeding apply a thin layer of peat moss over the entire
>> area. This helps retain moisture and holds the seed to ensure
>> a quality product." So the idea is not unknown.
>>
>> The sarcastic tone of some posters here, who wrote from
>> ignorance as if they actually knew something about the topic,
>> is not justified.
>
> Ask a simple question on usenet and everyone is an expert, even
> when they don't know what they're talking about.
I have another question. Two, actually. No...wait. Three.
1) Tell me how long I've been gardening and how many dozens of books I've
read on the subject.
2) How long have you been gardening and how many books you've read on the
subject.
3) You said "everyone is an expert". When you asked your original question,
did you want advice from someone who was NOT an expert? If so, why didn't
you ask anyone who knew what they were talking about to please refrain from
answering?
Andrew Ostrander
Your claims here that you are speaking from authority make you sound like a
midaeval church official who denied that heavy bodies fall as fast as light
ones. You have never tried this, or spoken with anyone who has. Experiment
is a lot more conclusive than theory.
As for wicking, if peat is mixed into soil many pieces of peat undoubtedly
stick out a bit. Yet the peat-soil mix is not dried out by any wicking
effect. It is, in fact, a recommended mix for starting sod where peat is
cheap. Yes, I have handled peat. I have also tossed handfuls of it onto my
garden and seen them in the same spot months later, having failed to notice
your opinion and blow away. (and yes, that's sarcasm.)
Doug Kanter
news:Xns979F4BB1A764...@199.125.85.9...
> you really should have done your seeding in the fall. grass
> grows better when fall seeded. as you found last year, when
> you spring seed you get a lot of weeds.
In order for her to do that, she would've had to listen to people who she
calls "experts". But, in an earlier message, she said disdainful things
about "experts". Maybe she should tell us what authorities she DOES trust,
and how she decides who to listen to.
Doug Kanter
"tried this" - I assume you're talking about mechanically launching peat
moss. That's correct - I haven't seen it done. Let me ask you something: If
you see 1000 landscapers create new lawns, and NONE of them "blow" peat moss
onto the surface, does that tell you anything? Let's assume also that 10% of
these people are not private business people, but work for municipalities,
which often have plenty of money for the latest equipment.
Why do you suppose you and I haven't seen this launching idea done with peat
moss?
> As for wicking, if peat is mixed into soil many pieces of peat undoubtedly
> stick out a bit. Yet the peat-soil mix is not dried out by any wicking
> effect. It is, in fact, a recommended mix for starting sod where peat is
> cheap. Yes, I have handled peat. I have also tossed handfuls of it onto
> my
> garden and seen them in the same spot months later, having failed to
> notice
> your opinion and blow away. (and yes, that's sarcasm.)
>
>
I noticed that the OP has now said that the person who suggested the idea to
her in the first place might not be so reliable. Maybe she'll explain why
later today.
Andrew Ostrander
> moss. That's correct - I haven't seen it done. Let me ask you something:
If
> you see 1000 landscapers create new lawns, and NONE of them "blow" peat
moss
> onto the surface, does that tell you anything? Let's assume also that 10%
of
> these people are not private business people, but work for municipalities,
> which often have plenty of money for the latest equipment.
>
> Why do you suppose you and I haven't seen this launching idea done with
peat
> moss?
I expect blowing on peat moss is not the most cost-effective way to
establish a new lawn in most situations. But the OP did not ask how to
establish a new lawn, she asked where to buy a tool, and in response she got
general advice. This advice was presented as factual but it was not based on
experience, and I did not and do not agree with the advice. I reproduce it
here:
< Peat moss also dries out very quickly when exposed to air. Then, two
things
< happen: First, it acts like a sponge and sucks moisture out of adjacent
< materials, like your soil. This assumes it remains in place, which is
< probably won't if it's been pulverized and there's any wind. The only
< correct way to use peat moss on a lawn is to work it into the soil, not
just
< put it on top.
I will also point out that she is not starting a new lawn but trying to fill
in an existing lawn, so comparisons with starting new lawns are not very
informative.
Doug Kanter
She said "8000 sq feet", so new lawn or not, she's considering a major
expenditure for a substance that will be relatively ineffective.
Another thought: She made no mention of having gotten a soil test. If she
has soil with too much clay, peat moss would only make matters worse.
sacstin...@yahoo.com
I am a home owner with a bad lawn not a professional. I have tried
using peat moss and it did work quiet well. I put down the peat moss
just spreading it around with a shovel. Then I sprinkled seed and some
fertilizer. Then plonked more peat moss on top.
I kept it watered using a ordinary hose and sprinkler on a timer.
Worked quite well.
I got my peat moss from home depot as well as the grass seed. I live in
New York and I did this last fall round about September time. Grass
came up in about 5 days.
The advantages of peat moss over top soil and other admenments I think
is easy of spreading it around.
As for a blower I have one of these as well. I did not use it to spread
the peat moss around though. The blower I have is a RedMax 8001. It is
a back pack blower. I suppose you could use it to blow stuff around,
but not quite sure how that would help?
Good luck with your lawn.
warmest regards, Mike.
Mama Bear wrote:
> Someone was telling me that they can use a shredder-blower to shred
> peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over your lawn after
> putting down grass seed, then you water and it helps keep the
> moisture in and start the seed so it doesn't dry out.
>
> What do they call the blower that can do that and what do they
> usually cost?
>
>
>
> --
> - Mama Bear
Warren
>
> I am a home owner with a bad lawn not a professional. I have tried
> using peat moss and it did work quiet well. I put down the peat moss
> just spreading it around with a shovel. Then I sprinkled seed and some
> fertilizer. Then plonked more peat moss on top.
>
> I kept it watered using a ordinary hose and sprinkler on a timer.
> Worked quite well.
>
> I got my peat moss from home depot as well as the grass seed. I live
> in
> New York and I did this last fall round about September time. Grass
> came up in about 5 days.
And you could have had the same results with less water if you didn't
have to provide enough water to both keep the peat hydrated and have
enough left over for the seeds to germinate. You wasted money on the
peat, and then you wasted money by having to water more.
> The advantages of peat moss over top soil and other admenments I think
> is easy of spreading it around.
Unless you mix the peat into the soil, there is zero advantage to using
it. In fact, if you just spread it on top, it's a waste. A waste of
peat. A waste of water. And a waste of effort. The peat has no
nutriative value, and if it's not mixed in the soil, it does nothing to
help the soil at all.
Andrew Ostrander
the frequency of waterings that are needed and surrounds the seeds and
provides them with a constant level of humidity. It sounds like a good idea
to me.
> And you could have had the same results with less water if you didn't
> have to provide enough water to both keep the peat hydrated and have
> enough left over for the seeds to germinate. You wasted money on the
> peat, and then you wasted money by having to water more.
>
Doug Kanter
indicating that peat moss did NOT need to be mixed into soil. Never. Not
once, and this includes gardening veterans like James Crockett, Alan Lacy,
Henry Mitchell, Fred McGourty, Russell Page, Christopher Lloyd, etc. They
were gardening for 30-50 years before I even began. None of them suggest
that it's a good idea to just sprinkle peat moss on top of soil.
What evidence do you have that suddenly makes this a good idea?
"Andrew Ostrander" <apa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4oe%f.12$ds5...@newsfe24.lga...
Andrew Ostrander
the soil. It is to help establish fresh additional grass in an existing
sparse lawn that will not be dug up. The purpose of the peat moss is to
retain moisture as the seeds germinate and develop.
My evidence is my own observation that peat moss remains moist much longer
than the surface of my lawn. Thus a lawn with peat moss on top will need
less frequent watering, perhaps twice a day to keep the grass seed moist
instead of every hour during midday. It will also shield the seeds from the
direct sunlight, which could dry them out no matter what they're on.
The claims of you and your authorities that mixing peat moss into soil is
the best way to use it to improve the soil, and just leaving it on top is,
at best, useless, seem undeniable. But that is not the goal here or the
situation. The moss will be kept moist until the grass is established. The
fact that peat moss is useful when dug in does not prevent it from being
useful in other ways too.
"Doug Kanter" <ancien...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:dte%f.5606$kg....@news02.roc.ny...
Doug Kanter
mean this in a good way. You have no idea what you saw. The only possible
exception to what I've said is that you are home all day long, and are able
to hose down the lawn's surface every couple of hours. Aside from that
possibility, or living in a climate where it rains lightly and endlessly
every day, there are no other explanations.
"Andrew Ostrander" <apa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:SYf%f.31$nj...@newsfe18.lga...
Warren
> Think about the purpose of using peat moss this way. It is not to
> improve
> the soil. It is to help establish fresh additional grass in an
> existing
> sparse lawn that will not be dug up. The purpose of the peat moss is
> to
> retain moisture as the seeds germinate and develop.
The peat will absorb moisture.
If the peat was mixed in the soil, that moisture would be available to
sprouting roots. But if the peat is on top of the soil, that moisture
will be lost to evaporation as the peat dries, and will do the
germination process absolutely no good. In fact, if you don't increase
how much watering you do, the soil under the peat will never get the
moisture it needs, and any germinating seeds will quickly die.
> My evidence is my own observation that peat moss remains moist much
> longer
> than the surface of my lawn.
Yes. You're right.
> Thus a lawn with peat moss on top will need
> less frequent watering, perhaps twice a day to keep the grass seed
> moist
> instead of every hour during midday.
Wrong. The water will go to keeping the peat moist, and that moiture
will be unavailable for the germinating seedlings.
> It will also shield the seeds from the
> direct sunlight, which could dry them out no matter what they're on.
If you're seeding during spring or fall, any direct sunlight is a
non-issue. If you're seeding in the height of summer, yes, your seeds
could dry out, but they're going to dry out faster if you cover them
with a big sponge that's exposed to the sunlight. And that's what peat
is.
Try this: Take a sponge, and place it over some soil. Then water the
area where the sponge is, as well as a bare area of similar soil
composition, and other conditions. Water both areas to the point that
the sponge is saturated. Every hour, check the soil under the sponge,
and the area not under the sponge. Notice which soil dries out first:
What was under the sponge, or what wasn't.
> The claims of you and your authorities that mixing peat moss into soil
> is
> the best way to use it to improve the soil, and just leaving it on top
> is,
> at best, useless, seem undeniable. But that is not the goal here or
> the
> situation. The moss will be kept moist until the grass is established.
> The
> fact that peat moss is useful when dug in does not prevent it from
> being
> useful in other ways too.
You're missing the point. It's not worthless on top because it's
supposed to be mixed in. It's supposed to be mixed in because it's
worthless (and, in fact, counter-productive) on top.
Save your water. Water only the soil and the seedlings. Don't lay peat
on top. You'll just have to water the peat in addition to the soil and
seedlings.
George.com
> Think about the purpose of using peat moss this way. It is not to improve
> the soil. It is to help establish fresh additional grass in an existing
> sparse lawn that will not be dug up. The purpose of the peat moss is to
> retain moisture as the seeds germinate and develop.
if the plan is to retain moisture and reduce watering surely a far simpler
way of doing it is to peg some form of cloth across the soil until the seeds
start to germinate. If the seed and peat moss is randomly spread amongst
existing grass is that not a little haphazard. What guarantee do you have
the the peat moss will come to rest in the places it is exactly needed.
Moreover, what effect will peat moss have on existing grasses. If you lay it
on too thick and moist you risk damaging the existing lawn. It may work
however it seems there are far simpler ways of achieving the desired
results. If simply wanting to beef up existing turf planting grasses in the
correct season with the necessary climactic conditions is a huge head start.
If the weather is hot and dry then the question has to be asked is grass the
best product for such conditions. Peat moss may or may not work, however to
my mind, is it the best way.
rob
Doug Kanter
news:e1l6qt$3p1$1...@lust.ihug.co.nz...
>
> "Andrew Ostrander" <apa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:SYf%f.31$nj...@newsfe18.lga...
>> Think about the purpose of using peat moss this way. It is not to
>> improve
>> the soil. It is to help establish fresh additional grass in an existing
>> sparse lawn that will not be dug up. The purpose of the peat moss is to
>> retain moisture as the seeds germinate and develop.
>
> if the plan is to retain moisture and reduce watering surely a far simpler
> way of doing it is to peg some form of cloth across the soil until the
> seeds
> start to germinate.
Good idea, but the OP said she has an 8000 sq ft area. That's a lot of
burlap!
George.com
you can get waste stuff if you look in the right places. Sure, it will be a
bit of work however simply spreading seed on an 8000 sq ft area will be work
in itself, as well as watering, as well as blowing peat fluff all over it.
With something that large there is work there all rightregardless of what
direction you go.
rob
George.com
ps a great area for dogs to go and poo on or to bend your garden fork
levering out roots.
rob
Doug Kanter
I agree. If it were my lawn, I'd do the job during a vacation week so I
could be out there misting it whenever necessary.
Doug Kanter
Don't get me started about dogs and their mentally retarded owners. Just
don't.
Andrew Ostrander
"Doug Kanter" <ancien...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:drg%f.5619$kg....@news02.roc.ny...
Bill
says...
>
<snip>
> I wonder about those slurries I've heard about, where you can
> spray the seed all over, in a mix of stuff that keeps it moist
> and helps it germinate. But that's probably big expensive
> government stuff.
>
>
>
>
You mean?:
Bill
--
Gmail and Google Groups. This century's answer to AOL and WebTV.
Doug Kanter
virtually ALL other professional recommendations, including those on the
peat moss packages, I'll be happy to change my opinion. But, all you've done
is said "I think this should work and the facts are of no important". You
may as well be telling someone to stick a gun in his mouth and pull the
trigger because you think the history of bullet wounds is nonsense.
"Andrew Ostrander" <apa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bMA%f.455$ZP5...@newsfe20.lga...
Andrew Ostrander
You have not referred to any professional recommendation or evidence that
says the method does not work. The professional recommendations to which
you refer say to use peat moss another way, which is not applicable here.
That does not mean it will not work in the way that is suggested here.
That peat moss is recommended for method B and works in method B does not
mean that it does not work in method A.
I notice that you ignored my previous posting to a garden site that
recommended applying peat moss on top of a lawn when reseeding. Here are 3
more. They were easily found.
http://www.hudginsgardencenter.com/html/lawn_care_guide.htm
http://extras.berkshireeagle.com/nebe/homeguide/2004spring/default.asp?id=ar
ticle18
http://www.skynursery.com/doc/garden_lawn_tips.htm
My other point is that, yes, I wrote, "I think this should work". I am
disagreeing with your opinion. I did not present my opinion as accepted
truth. You, on the other hand, have presented as known fact what is only
your view on the situation.
"Doug Kanter" <ancien...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:SaM%f.7036$tT....@news01.roc.ny...
Doug Kanter
sprinkled on top of the seed, but only if you're there to keep it moist.
This would eliminate its functionality for anyone who has to go to work for
8 hours on a sunny day.
"Andrew Ostrander" <apa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:noS%f.13987$Ku3....@newsfe15.lga...
Not@home
Mama Bear wrote:
> Bill <spam...@tinlc.lumbercartel.com> wrote :
>
>
>>In article <Xns97A4CBD...@216.196.97.142>,
>>Mama...@No-Spam.noo says...
>>
>><snip>
>>
>>>I wonder about those slurries I've heard about, where you can
>>>spray the seed all over, in a mix of stuff that keeps it
>>>moist and helps it germinate. But that's probably big
>>>expensive government stuff.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> You mean?:
>>
>> http://www.turfmaker.com./
>
>
>
> Yep, must be government stuff.
>
>
I doubt the government owns any of those. I think they are owned by
subcontractors who provide the service to the prime contractor on
construction projects. I know they recently redid some roads here, with
new paving, curbs, and sidewalks, and some contractor came around and
sprayed the stuff. I have also seen it done when a developer is
building homes. If you want to look into it, call a large contractor
and ask for the name of his subcontractor. You could probably have it
done without having to buy the equipment, but I would guess it would be
more expensive than the traditional method I described above. I'm not
real confident that the slurry alone will produce a nice lawn; I think
it will produce a lawn with a lot of ryegrass, and you will have to do
something to get a finer grass to replace that. I worked in a new
building where they had used the slurry, and in the two years I was
there, they never got to the point where the grass looked good.
George.com
> You still persist in your error in logic.
>
> You have not referred to any professional recommendation or evidence that
> says the method does not work. The professional recommendations to which
> you refer say to use peat moss another way, which is not applicable here.
> That does not mean it will not work in the way that is suggested here.
>
> That peat moss is recommended for method B and works in method B does not
> mean that it does not work in method A.
>
> I notice that you ignored my previous posting to a garden site that
> recommended applying peat moss on top of a lawn when reseeding. Here are
3
> more. They were easily found.
>
> http://www.hudginsgardencenter.com/html/lawn_care_guide.htm
>
>
http://extras.berkshireeagle.com/nebe/homeguide/2004spring/default.asp?id=ar
> ticle18
>
> http://www.skynursery.com/doc/garden_lawn_tips.htm
>
> My other point is that, yes, I wrote, "I think this should work". I am
> disagreeing with your opinion. I did not present my opinion as accepted
> truth. You, on the other hand, have presented as known fact what is only
> your view on the situation.
Andrew. A point of clarification here. The websites you referred to, one
talked about topdressing existing lawns with peat moss by raking it into the
existing turf and the other sugested covering grass seed with peat moss.
The first suggestion is, as far as I can see, about conditioning your soil
and adding organic material using a no till method.
The latter does not explain how to moss is to be applied.
The original post was about shredding and blowning peat moss on to newly
laid grass seed.
The unanswered question for me is the blowing bit. I cannot see bits of peat
moss fluff doing much. Getting it in to the right areas at the right
thickness must require raking. Bits of peat moss lying over a soil must be
subject to wind blow. What happens when the seed starts to germinate and
they have a nice layer of mulch stopping them getting to the sun.
Of interest value only, your opinion please.
rob
(rest of discussion snipped)
Andrew Ostrander
> > http://www.hudginsgardencenter.com/html/lawn_care_guide.htm
>
http://extras.berkshireeagle.com/nebe/homeguide/2004spring/default.asp?id=ar
ticle18
> > http://www.skynursery.com/doc/garden_lawn_tips.htm
>
> talked about topdressing existing lawns with peat moss by raking it into
the
> existing turf and the other sugested covering grass seed with peat moss.
> The first suggestion is, as far as I can see, about conditioning your soil
> and adding organic material using a no till method.
> The latter does not explain how to moss is to be applied.
> The original post was about shredding and blowning peat moss on to newly
> laid grass seed.
>
reseeding a lawn. I will quote one or two sentences from each of the web
sites:
"After applying lime, fertilizer, and seed to your lawn, we recommend you
cover the newly seeded areas with a light covering of peat moss or straw.
Peat moss is the most desirable and is excellent for average size areas."
"If your lawn is sparse, mix in seed with the peat moss when you're
top-dressing, and spread it with a rake."
"Apply seed, lime, and starter fertilizer, cover with peat moss or Grass
Mulch and thoroughly water."
> The unanswered question for me is the blowing bit. I cannot see bits of
peat
> moss fluff doing much. Getting it in to the right areas at the right
> thickness must require raking. Bits of peat moss lying over a soil must be
> subject to wind blow. What happens when the seed starts to germinate and
> they have a nice layer of mulch stopping them getting to the sun.
>
> Of interest value only, your opinion please.
>
> rob
> (rest of discussion snipped)
I don't know how blowing can be done. If the peat moss is dry it will blow
all over, better wear a dust mask for sure. If it is moist, it's harder to
blow. I never regarded the blowing as basic to the points I was disagreeing
with.
After the seed germinates the young blade will have to push its way through
a layer of moist peat moss. I don't see this as a problem; after all, peat
moss is a major component of most seed starter mixes.
nathan.o...@gmail.com
I`m sorry you have to put up with the few yahoos in this group (but at
least there are a few good ones out there) who feel they have to
denigrate someone just to justify their own feelings of inadequacy.
First of all, you were trying to follow up on something that you`d
heard about and thought was a good idea. There`s no harm in that...
what this bunch SHOULD have done is say, "well now, how good is this
source?" THEN say that they recommend you incorporate your peat moss
into the soil... etc. etc. etc.!
Realistically speaking, peat moss should be incorporated into the soil.
Even if it`s just a light scattering of 10 bales over a large (I think
one previous post said 8000 sq ft.) area, under any circumstances, a
light raking to evenly distribute it and incorporate it into the
topsoil should be OK and help conserve moisture. The moisture wicking
action only occurs under extremely dry conditions when the air moisture
is considerably less than the soil moisture (more rapid if air moisture
is 20-30% less than soil, especially if wind is blowing) and depends
extensively on where you live. You should not have to buy a
shredder/blower for this (or even rent one) as dry peat moss is
extremely friable and can be broken down in a wheelbarrow with a spade.
The alternative is to ask a company to blow your grass seed onto your
lawn. They do this with a kind of a slurry which is dyed green and
likely contains a mulch of partly-digested paper which helps to
conserve moisture (much like peat moss, if properly utilized). Since
they do this with specialized equipment, and I`m not entirely familiar
with this method of applying grass seeds, perhaps someone could expand
on this? There should be several companies in your area whith this
capabiliy - I suggest you shop around and compare prices. If they`re a
little out of your range, you can suggest that they seed at half the
rate they normally do (i.e. half the density of grass seed per litre of
mulch or something like that) then when they finish (wait till they`re
gone!), go over the entire lawn with a manual spreader and a bag of
premium grass seed.
Good luck Mama Bear!
My website (blogsite) is located at www.GCILifeSciences.blogspot.com,
which also lists discussion groups I moderate. Feel free to add your
opinion to these groups.
Plant Info
hold moisture while the seed germinates. Just supposing, tho, as I didn't
see the original post.
Suzy, Wisconsin, Zone 5
"George.com" <rob...@ihug.co.nz> wrote in message
news:e1qbt4$i05$1...@lust.ihug.co.nz...
George.com
"Plant Info" <Plan...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:kpk2g.4199$0b7...@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> I imagine the use of sphagnum peat over a newly seeded lawn is meant to
help
> hold moisture while the seed germinates. Just supposing, tho, as I didn't
> see the original post.
>
> Suzy, Wisconsin, Zone 5
yes, that was the idea. It may work however I think there are easier and
more sure fire ways of going about it. Seems work and a waste of good peat
moss to my mind.
rob
Jim Carlock
> How do you choose a doctor? Look for a little kid with a toy
> stethoscope?
The kid probably gives more honest and better advice.
Jim Carlock
Post replies to the group.
"Clean your finger before you point at my spots."
Benjamin Franklin
--
(Swimming Pools http://www.aquaticcreationsnc.com/)
dcsch...@gmail.com
> Someone was telling me that they can use a shredder-blower to shred
> peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over your lawn after
> putting down grass seed, then you water and it helps keep the
> moisture in and start the seed so it doesn't dry out.
>
> What do they call the blower that can do that and what do they
> usually cost?
>
>
>
> --
> - Mama Bear
Mama Bear:
You can buy a leaf vacuum/blower at any big box store like Home Depot or Lowes, as well as many, many stores that sell gardening equipment. Many, perhaps most, use the fan blade to chop up leaves as well and are perfect for spreading peat moss. The ones I'm familiar with are electric and you should be able to find one for considerably less than $100, particularly if you wait for the fall sales. The cost of the bales of peat moss should be in the neighbourhood of +/- $25 per 1000 square feet. Go to the following YouTube link to see a video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJDkRcLrLzk
On another note, I sympathize with regard to people who ignore the simple straight-forward question you ask and instead clog the thread with irrelevant and unasked for advice, much of it simply wrong, which leaves you and others who might have come across your post in search of an simple answer to a simple question absolutely frustrated. People, if you can't answer the question that was asked of you here, BUZZ, for lack of the stronger word, OFF!!!!!
David E. Ross
sure the original poster -- Mama Bear -- is still alive?
--
David E. Ross
Climate: California Mediterranean, see
<http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html>
Gardening diary at <http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary>
Pat Kiewicz
>Why did you reply to a message that is more than 8 years old? Are you
>sure the original poster -- Mama Bear -- is still alive?
>
replied to them without noticing the date.
How that happens, I do not know. But it does happen.
--
Pat in Plymouth MI
"Yes, swooping is bad."
email valid but not regularly monitored
ddc...@gmail.com
hub...@ccanoemail.ca
>> Someone was telling me that they can use a shredder-blower to shred
>> peat moss and spray a think layer of it all over your lawn after
>> putting down grass seed, then you water and it helps keep the
>> moisture in and start the seed so it doesn't dry out.
>> What do they call the blower that can do that and what do they
>> usually cost?
I'll ask them and be right back - OK ?
Phillip
Peat moss has been used for years to control take all patch diseases on
several turf species. A shreader would be helpful to get a fine powder
application for use on turf.
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/garden/shredding-blowing-peat-moss-on-lawn-49355-.htm
Amos Nomore
> replying to Warren, Phillip wrote:
> Peat moss has been used for years to control take all patch diseases on
> several turf species. A shreader would be helpful to get a fine powder
> application for use on turf.
you get about machinery), to sift the peat moss. Reducing it to powder
will render its moisture, nutrient and gas holding capacity
drastically. I sift a 2cf bale or two every spring using a simple
wooden shaker tray with a 1/4" mesh hardware cloth screen. I enjoy the
work but many would not. You can find instructions to build all kinds
of powered sifters on the internet.