I have a small farm in the foothills of the Virginia Blue Ridge Mountains
(USDA zone 7). There is a small stream which meanders through my
pasture. There are quite a few tall trees lining the stream bed, but
these trees block my view of the mountains. I'm in the process of
removing these trees and hope to have the stream bed cleared by
mid-spring. Trouble is, while I don't want tall trees to block the view,
I don't want to have a bare nekkid stream coursing through the field
either. I'd like to create a sort of hedgerow effect, i.e., a dense, but
relatively low wall of vegetation. That way I can see the mountains from
my house and still have something lining the stream.
I thought Crepe Myrtle would do the trick - quick growing, summer
color, and nice bark for winter interest - but I'm not sure. Good idea?
or bad one? How does Crepe Myrtle do near flowing water? While I'm
definitely in Zone 7, the stream bed is a bit of a frost pocket. Am I
going to have problems?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
- Alan
--
The World Bank, 1818 H St. NW, Washington DC 20433, U.S.A.
http://www.worldbank.org +1(202)477-1234
Alan,
Lucky you a farm and meandering stream. I think you should investigate
what plants are native to your area and select something appropriate in
height. Planting all one thing is not generally a good idea in what I
see as a natural landscape situation. In other words look at Mother
Nature for inspiration. There are many beautiful native plants that
would do well by a stream. Lagerstromemia indica (crepe myrtle) is
native to China. It is also slow growing and prone to mildew in some
zones. Wouldn't be my first choice. Good Luck
Lori
Please reconsider. Crepe Myrtles are *way* overplanted and they don't
feed anything here in America, that I'm aware of anyway. (Down here in
the south, the tree grows about 75' tall) For an interesting siloette, how
about Staghorn sumac. I'm more familiar with them growing in dry
conditions, but I seem to remember a poster's "problems" with them on a
stream bank.
How about a native azelea? The piedmont azelea (Rhododendrum canescens)
grows to about 8 - 16' along creek swamps, bluffs and hammocks in zones 7
to 9 in full sun to partial shade -- flowers pink to white and fragrant.
It supports butterflies.
Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) seems to grow anywhere, including floodplains
from zone 4 - 8. It supports lots of birds plus some butterflies. It
grows 8 - 10' high.
Clethra alnifolia (sweet pepperbush) is very nice and likes flatwoods,
creek and acid swamps -- full sun to full shade, zones 5 - 8. White to
pink very frangrant blossoms. Supports birds, bees, butterflies and
hummingbirds. 3 - 12' high.
In article <329082...@worldbank.org>, Alan Zuschlag
Another short choice would be the high-bush blueberry. I've been told
that they grow to about 6', require acid soil and wet feet, and have
brilliant red foliage in the fall. Plus you (or the birds) get the
blueberry fruit. A mixture of these and the bushes suggested by the other
posters would be an interesting display.
Alan Zuschlag <AZus...@worldbank.org> wrote:
: In looking for a solution to a landscape design problem, I've hit upon
: Crepe Myrtles as the answer - but I'd like some feedback from people with
: more experience in this area.
<snip>
>Alan Zuschlag wrote:
>>
>> In looking for a solution to a landscape design problem, I've hit upon
>> Crepe Myrtles as the answer - but I'd like some feedback from people with
>> more experience in this area.
>>
>> I have a small farm in the foothills of the Virginia Blue Ridge Mountains
>> (USDA zone 7). There is a small stream which meanders through my
>> pasture. There are quite a few tall trees lining the stream bed, but
>> these trees block my view of the mountains. I'm in the process of
>> removing these trees and hope to have the stream bed cleared by
>> mid-spring. Trouble is, while I don't want tall trees to block the view,
>> I don't want to have a bare nekkid stream coursing through the field
>> either. I'd like to create a sort of hedgerow effect, i.e., a dense, but
>> relatively low wall of vegetation. That way I can see the mountains from
>> my house and still have something lining the stream.
>>
>> I thought Crepe Myrtle would do the trick - quick growing, summer
>> color, and nice bark for winter interest - but I'm not sure. Good idea?
>> or bad one? How does Crepe Myrtle do near flowing water? While I'm
>> definitely in Zone 7, the stream bed is a bit of a frost pocket. Am I
>> going to have problems?
>>
>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> - Alan
>Alan,
>Lucky you a farm and meandering stream. I think you should investigate
>what plants are native to your area and select something appropriate in
>height. Planting all one thing is not generally a good idea in what I
>see as a natural landscape situation. In other words look at Mother
>Nature for inspiration. There are many beautiful native plants that
>would do well by a stream. Lagerstromemia indica (crepe myrtle) is
>native to China. It is also slow growing and prone to mildew in some
>zones. Wouldn't be my first choice. Good Luck
>Lori
Crepe myrtles can take some moisture, but extreme moisture would kill them.
How about growing some of the plants that grow naturally along streams in the
Eastern US? I don't know what you maximum height you specify but here is a
list of shrubs and small trees that are showy, feed wildlife, and grow well
in the wet to moist conditions around a stream.
Small Trees:
American Hornbeam - Carpinus caroliniana: fluted bark, good fall color.
PawPaw - Asimina triloba: big leaves, edible fruit.
Alder - Alnus spp: fuzzy spring flowers.
Sweetbay - Magnolia virginiana: Tardily deciduous, good flowers.
Shrubs:
Spicebush - Lindera benzoin: early yellow flower, red fruit, aromatic.
Buttonbush - Cephalanthus occidentalis: showy flowers attract butterflies.
Itea - Itea virginica: showy spring flowers, red fall color.
Summersweet - Clethra alnifolia: showy, very fragrant summer flowers.
Florida Anise - Illicium floridanum: red flowers, evergreen, aromatic.
Fetterbush - Leucothue sp: showy flowers, evergreen.
Winterberry - Ilex verticillata: very showy red fruit, deciduous.
You also might try a few showy native wetlands perennials:
Blue Flag - Iris virginica: showy blue spring flowers, 2-3 ft
- Iris versicolor: showy blue spring flowers, 1-2 ft
Golden club - Oriontum: showy, interesting yellow flowers, bluish leaves.
Yellow Flag - Iris: naturalized, showy early yellow flowers.
Cardinal Flower - Lobelia cardinalis: showy late red flowers for hummingbirds.
Blue Lobelia - Lobelia siphilitica: showy late blue flowers.
Ironweed - Vernonia: late red-purple flowers.
Joe-pye Weed - Eupatorium: tall, smoky purple flowers for butterflies.
Culver's Root - Veronicastrum: white spike flowers.
There are many others that would be wonderful along your stream. If you would
like more information or ideas or have trouble locating these for purchase,
please e-mail me.
Jay
Why not reconsider cutting down the trees. That should'nt be a decision
to be taken lightly, especially near a stream bank. Some states have
laws against taking trees right up to the stream bank. Generally trout
won't thrive without a densly shaded shoreline.
Why not work your trees into your view? Thin them out a bit and plant
Rhodadendrons within them, perhaps with a nice path along the stream,
that ought to be much more rewarding than a view of the hills anyway!
Wait till winter, you'll be able to see the hills through the trees
: I have a small farm in the foothills of the Virginia Blue Ridge Mountains
: (USDA zone 7). There is a small stream which meanders through my
: pasture. There are quite a few tall trees lining the stream bed, but
: these trees block my view of the mountains. I'm in the process of
: removing these trees and hope to have the stream bed cleared by
Removing grown trees just because of your blocked view? In my book that
oughta be a criminal offense. Where will the birdies live?
: mid-spring. Trouble is, while I don't want tall trees to block the view,
: I don't want to have a bare nekkid stream coursing through the field
: either. I'd like to create a sort of hedgerow effect, i.e., a dense, but
Already taking down trees and you haven't decided on a plan yet?
: relatively low wall of vegetation. That way I can see the mountains from
: my house and still have something lining the stream.
: I thought Crepe Myrtle would do the trick - quick growing, summer
: color, and nice bark for winter interest - but I'm not sure. Good idea?
: or bad one? How does Crepe Myrtle do near flowing water? While I'm
: definitely in Zone 7, the stream bed is a bit of a frost pocket. Am I
: going to have problems?
Probably. Crepe myrtles like good drainage. In zone 7, you will lose
them every ten years or so unless you get one of the semidwarf Indian
name varieties.
: Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Even my sarcastic answer?
Chad
: - Alan
>In looking for a solution to a landscape design problem, I've hit upon
>Crepe Myrtles as the answer - but I'd like some feedback from people with
>more experience in this area.
>I have a small farm in the foothills of the Virginia Blue Ridge Mountains
>(USDA zone 7). There is a small stream which meanders through my
>pasture. There are quite a few tall trees lining the stream bed, but
>these trees block my view of the mountains. I'm in the process of
>removing these trees and hope to have the stream bed cleared by
>mid-spring. Trouble is, while I don't want tall trees to block the view,
>I don't want to have a bare nekkid stream coursing through the field
>either. I'd like to create a sort of hedgerow effect, i.e., a dense, but
>relatively low wall of vegetation. That way I can see the mountains from
>my house and still have something lining the stream.
I sympathize with your desire to enjoy the local vistas, but I don't
think you will be well served, designwise, by shaving off all the
trees at once. For your streambed to present visual interest, it
needs to be punctuated by vertical elements like the occasional tall
tree. Shrubs are fine here and there. Then in some spots, the stream
needs to be cleared on both banks so you can watch the tinkling water.
You are uniquely well suited at the country venue to plant a weeping
willow. They adore wet feet, but their root systems are so invasive
that putting one within 100 feet of a sewer or septic system is a
serious mistake. Unless your stream is close to the house, a willow
won't threaten your plumbing, though.
Weeping willows leaf out early in spring and hold their leaves far
into the fall. Their graceful movements in the wind are a constant
soothing reminder of the bigger forces on the planet. (If I worked
for the World Bank, I might need reminding about his from time to
time.... ;>)
Autumn leaf color for all weeping willows is yellow. The 'Niobe'
hybrid has chartreusey-colored leaves during the growing season. I
prefer, though, the regular old 'black' weeping willows, which have
leaves of a light, true green without so many golden undertones.
>I thought Crepe Myrtle would do the trick - quick growing, summer
>color, and nice bark for winter interest - but I'm not sure. Good idea?
>or bad one? How does Crepe Myrtle do near flowing water? While I'm
>definitely in Zone 7, the stream bed is a bit of a frost pocket. Am I
>going to have problems?
The frost shouldn't cause difficulties for you. Crape myrtles are
pretty OK through USDA zone 6 (one colder than you think you are).
However, let's be absolutely sure you ARE in 7. I have the big USDA
zone map. If you'll tell me which Virginia county your property is
located in, I will confirm your zone. Most of the Blue Ridge area is
zone 6b.
Most of the crape myrtles I've seen growing in the country in Virginia
have *not* been near bodies of water. I suspect they like good
drainage and might not prosper right at the stream's edge. But 10-15
feet on either side of the banks might work fine, especially if the
terrain is sloping and drainage down toward the stream can be counted
on.
Few crape myrtles get above 30 feet tall. I'm using a dwarf at my
home just outside D.C. that tops out at 5 feet. You might like it,
too. The hybrid is 'Imp,' and it's a product of Monrovia Nurseries in
Louisiana, MO. I bought three Imps in the dark magenta bloom color
sold as Imp Bravo from the Behnke Nurseries Co., of Beltsville, MD, in
1993. I planted them on 4-foot centers to hide the lattice screening
below my front porch. They grew fairly slowly the first year, made
better headway in year #2, and this season dutifully reached 5 feet,
which exactly matches the floor of the porch. Mission accomplished!
All crape myrtles bloom on "new wood," which means on the branches
that grew during spring rather than the branches left over from the
prior season. That's why, in the country on neglected properties, you
see tall CM's with all their blooms near the top and either bare
trunks or leaves only down low.
As that is not the look you're after, you should feel free to prune
whatever CM's you do plant on an annual basis to promote bushy growth
and blooming down low. An occasional specimen in your setting can be
pruned to a single-trunk structure and allowed to grow taller, again
for vertical interest. Typically, if you whack a CM off just above
ground level it will respond with many little stems and assume a
shrubby habit.
I like the theme of another responder, that you need to plant some
species that will provide food or shelter for local wildlife. (The
guy who mentioned trout and their need for shade was right on, too.
You probably have trout in your stream!) Birds love to eat dogwood
berries after the first frost because they ferment, giving the birdies
a little but noticeable buzz. Dogwoods do quite well in the
understory of pineywoods here in the Southeast. If the trees you're
removing are mainly pines, you probably can have success plus nice
spring bloom from a dogwood or two. To avoid the dreaded anthracnose
disease that is plaguing this noble little tree, situate any dogwoods
you plant in full sun. Again, I'd go for 5-6 feet at least away from
the streambank.
Did you know that daffodils naturalize brilliantly in Virginia's farm
fields? I never saw this in the Midwest, where I grew up, but here
it's extremely common. For a casual country look, buy big bags of
daffs for naturalizing (these are mixtures rather than one hybrid) and
toss them around in clumps here and there. Then dig them at least 6
inches down into the dirt where they fell. Because daffodils are
unappealing to rodents (unlike tulips), you will get many years'
benefits from planting anything in the narcissus family.
You can plant daffs until the ground freezes solid, but I wouldn't
wait much longer if I were you. The weather hereabouts seems pretty
cool this fall....
--Janet Wintermute
Adelphi, MD